The Best of Albania – 5 Days Self-Launched from Tirana (Kruja, Shala River, Berat, Bovilla, Gjirokastra & Ksamil)

Start early from Tirana's New Bazaar area. Walk to the North & Central Bus Terminal (or hop the local city bus from Skanderbeg Square, ~£0.30) and take a furgon to Kruja — departures run roughly hourly from around 07:30, journey ~1 hour, about £1.50–2. From Kruja bus stop it's a 15-minute uphill walk (or a short taxi) to the Old Bazaar and castle. Buy your own castle + Skanderbeg Museum ticket on arrival (around £4–5), wander the bazaar for carpets, copperware and qeleshe hats, then continue up the panoramic road on foot or by taxi to the Sari Salltik cave shrine for the plain views (free). Optional: Ethnographic Museum ~£5. Return to Tirana by late afternoon furgon. Evening: raki and tavë kosi in the Blloku district.

🚌Local furgon Tirana–Kruja ~£2 each way; city bus to terminal ~£0.30

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse near Skanderbeg Square/New Bazaar, Tirana (dorm ~£12–15, private ~£25–30)

• →Kruja Castle & Skanderbeg Museum (self-bought ticket ~£4–5)
• →Old Bazaar handicraft browsing
• →Sari Salltik cave shrine walk (free)
• →Optional Ethnographic Museum ~£5

The classic Albania day. Take an early furgon or shared minibus from Tirana's North terminal to Komani Lake dam (~2.5–3 hrs, ~£6–8; operators leave around 06:00–07:00 — ask your hostel to confirm times the night before). Board the local passenger boat (Komani Lake Ferry/Berisha line) up the gorge and interconnected lakes to the Shala River landing, ~1–1.5 hrs, roughly £8–10 return — buy on the pier. From the landing, either swim in the emerald water or do the 45-minute uphill hike to the viewpoint (free, bring trainers). Simple river-side guesthouses sell grilled trout and byrek for lunch ~£6. Return on the afternoon boat and the late furgon back to Tirana, arriving evening. Book the boat and minibus the day before — this is the one day worth pre-arranging.

🚌Shared minibus Tirana–Komani dam ~£7 each way; boat ~£9 return

🛏Same Tirana hostel/guesthouse

• →Komani Lake scenic boat ride
• →Swim at Shala River
• →45-min hike to Shala River viewpoint

Furgons to Berat leave Tirana's South terminal roughly every 30–60 minutes, ~2.5 hrs, about £4–5. Drop bags at a guesthouse in the Mangalem or Gorica quarter (an old Ottoman house room ~£20–28, often with breakfast). Climb to Berat Castle on foot — the walled citadel with Byzantine churches and the Onufri Icon Museum (museum ~£4.50) — and walk the Gorica Bridge for the classic postcard shot over the Osumi River. Optional detour to Belshi Lake if you have a car or taxi. Eat lunch in Mangalem (Byrek & qofte, ~£5–7). Stay the night in Berat rather than returning to Tirana — it halves tomorrow's drive south.

🚌Furgon Tirana–Berat ~£4.50; local walking/short taxi

🛏Guesthouse in Mangalem/Gorica, Berat (~£20–28 with breakfast)

• →Berat Castle walk (free entry to grounds)
• →Onufri Icon Museum ~£4.50
• →Mangalem & Gorica old quarters
• →Gorica Bridge and Osumi River viewpoints

Furgons from Berat to Tirana via Durres run frequently (~£4.50, 2.5 hrs) or take a Berat–Tirana bus direct mid-morning. From Tirana, the cheap route to Bovilla is the local bus toward Zall-Herr/Bovilla village (about £0.60–1, check times at the terminal — a couple per day) then a 30-minute walk to the reservoir; alternatively a shared taxi or GetYourGuide half-day hike transfer runs ~£20–25 return. Hike the Gamti Mountain trail — roughly 40 minutes up to the ridge for the turquoise lake views — then cool off at the small river pools below. Return to Tirana for the evening; load up on supermarket picnic supplies and stock up on cash (many spots on tomorrow's route are cash-only).

🚌Furgon Berat–Tirana ~£4.50; local bus to Bovilla ~£1; taxi share ~£10

🛏Tirana hostel/guesthouse (dorm ~£12–15)

• →Gamti Mountain viewpoint hike (~40 min ascent)
• →Swimming/wading at Bovilla river pools
• →Lake Bovilla photo stops

This is the operator's marathon day — self-launched, either join a small-group day trip with pickup from Tirana via GetYourGuide (around £45–60, which is the sensible option for solo travellers) or string it yourself: early furgon Tirana–Gjirokastra (~4 hrs, ~£8), wander the UNESCO old town and bazaar and the castle exterior, then a furgon onward to Saranda and a local bus to Ksamil (~1.5 hrs total, ~£3), swim the islands-view beach and grab a sea-view lunch, before the long bus chain back to Tirana (arriving late). From June–September there are direct Saranda/Ksamil–Tirana coaches (~£12, 5 hrs) — far more comfortable than chaining furgons. Practical tip: doing this with one night in Gjirokastra or Saranda instead is much calmer and costs about the same.

🚌Option A: GetYourGuide/agency small-group day trip ~£45–60. Option B: furgons/buses Tirana–Gjirokastra–Saranda–Ksamil–Tirana ~£23–25

🛏None — tour ends back in Tirana (add a final hostel night ~£13 if needed)

• →Gjirokastra Old Town & bazaar
• →Ksamil Beach swimming
• →Boat rental to the Ksamil islands (~£8–10 shared)
• →Sea-view dinner or drinks in Ksamil