Timeless Albania Self-Launched: 3 UNESCO Sites & the Albanian Riviera

Start early in Tirana. Take a furgon (shared minibus) or bus from Tirana's South & North Terminal toward Përmet — there's usually a change at either Tepelenë or a direct service depending on the day (~4-5 hrs, roughly £6-8). Përmet is a small, easy-going town on the Vjosa river at the edge of the Zagori region. In the afternoon walk or grab a short taxi to the Benja hot thermal pools (the famous 'Banjat e Përmetit'), natural sulphur springs in a gorge with a small footbridge — free to visit, small parking/entry fee of about £1-2. Wander the old bazaar streets and the stone bridge before an evening of byrek, tavë kosi and local Gliko sweets. Overnight in a Përmet guesthouse.

🚌Local bus/furgon from Tirana South Terminal to Përmet, ~£6-8, 4-5 hrs

🛏Guesthouse/hostel in Përmet (~£15-20)

• →Visit Benja thermal pools (Banjat e Përmetit)
• →Walk Përmet old town and bazaar
• →Evening riverside walk

Morning furgon or bus south to Gjirokastra (~1.5-2 hrs, ~£3-4). Check into a guesthouse inside the old town — many are traditional stone houses, which is the whole point of staying here. In the afternoon self-guide the UNESCO-listed Gjirokastra Castle (entry ~£2-3) with its clock tower, captured artillery and the fascinating Cold War tunnel. Then explore the Ottoman-era medieval bazaar and the Skënduli House museum. Dinner of Gjirokastra's famous qifqi and lamb — a foodie highlight. If you're a Cold War nerd, the secret tunnel under the castle is worth the extra ticket.

🚌Bus/furgon Përmet → Gjirokastra, ~£3-4, 1.5-2 hrs

🛏Traditional stone guesthouse in Gjirokastra old town (~£18-22)

• →Explore Gjirokastra Castle (UNESCO)
• →Visit Cold War tunnel
• →Tour the medieval bazaar
• →Skënduli House museum

Travel to Vlora via the spectacular Riviera road, or inland via Tepelenë depending on what's running (~3-4 hrs, ~£5-7; a change at Tepelenë or Saranda is common). Vlora is a lively port city where Albanian independence was declared in 1912. Visit Flag Square (Sheshi i Flamurit) with the Independence Monument, wander the Muradie Mosque and the old town lanes, then join the locals for the evening xhiro (promenade) along the seafront. Seafood dinner on the waterfront is a must — grilled sea bass and a glass of local wine.

🚌Bus/furgon Gjirokastra → Vlora, ~£5-7, 3-4 hrs

🛏Hostel/guesthouse in Vlora, ~£15-20

• →Flag Square & Independence Monument
• →Muradie Mosque & old town
• →Seafront evening promenade

The operator's headline day — and easily self-booked. Book a full-day boat excursion to Sazan Island and the Karaburun Peninsula through a local Vlora operator, GetYourGuide or Klook (roughly £25-35 pp, includes swimming stops, snorkelling in the Haxhi Aliu cave and often a simple lunch). Sazan was a secret Soviet-then-Albanian military base — you'll see the abandoned bunkers and naval installations. Karaburun's rugged coast has hidden coves, the Blue Cave and clear Ionian water for swimming. Bring reef-safe sunscreen, a rash vest and water shoes. Confirm departure point the night before; boats leave Vlora's harbour or nearby Radhimë.

🚌Local boat excursion from Vlora port (pickup often included)

🛏Hostel/guesthouse in Vlora, ~£15-20

• →Boat trip to Sazan Island
• →Swim/snorkel the Blue Cave
• →Karaburun Peninsula beaches & Haxhi Aliu cave

Early bus or furgon from Vlora toward Berat (~2.5-3 hrs, ~£4-5, usually a change at Fier or Kuçovë). Berat is the 'town of a thousand windows' and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Self-guide Berat Castle (free to enter, small church/museum fees ~£1-2), then cross the Gorica bridge into the Gorica neighbourhood on the other bank and walk the Mangalem quarter. Grab a slow lunch of fërgesë. In the late afternoon continue by bus to Tirana (~2-2.5 hrs, ~£3-4). If your flight is later, poke around Tirana's Blloku district or the free-to-see Skanderbeg Square. Trip ends in Tirana, ~5-6 pm.

🚌Bus Vlora → Berat (~£4-5), then Berat → Tirana (~£3-4)

🛏Not included — book a Tirana hostel (~£18-25) if staying overnight

• →Berat Castle (UNESCO)
• →Gorica neighbourhood walk
• →Mangalem quarter
• →Optional evening in Tirana