Self-Launched Annapurna Circuit Trek & Tilicho Lake

Fly into Tribhuvan International Airport and take a prepaid taxi to Thamel (£4–5). Check into a cheap guesthouse in Thamel or Paknagar. Spend the afternoon sorting logistics at the Nepal Tourism Board office (Exhibition Road) — bring passport, 4 passport photos and cash for your ACAP permit (~£20 / NPR 3,000) and TIMS card (~£13 / NPR 2,000). Buy or rent gear on Thamel's trekking shops (down jacket ~£2/day, sleeping bag ~£1.5/day, trekking poles ~£1/day). Optional: pre-book a Kathmandu walking tour on GetYourGuide (~£18) if you'd like a guided introduction before heading out.

🚌Prepaid taxi from KTM airport ~£4–5

🛏Budget guesthouse, Thamel (twin/dorm, ~£8–12 pp)

• →Nepal Tourism Board permit office (ACAP + TIMS)
• →Thamel gear hire and shopping
• →Optional GetYourGuide Kathmandu walking tour (~£18)

Take an early local bus from Kathmandu's Gongabu (Machha Pokhari) bus park to Besisahar — roughly 6–8 hours, ~£7–9. (Note: since the Aug 2026 flood damage to the Prithvi Highway at Krishna Bhir, buses may route via Hetauda–Narayanghat–Muglin, adding 2–3 hours.) Check into a local guesthouse in Besisahar and pick up any last snacks. Eat dal bhat at a local bhojanalaya (~£2.50).

🚌Local bus Kathmandu–Besisahar ~£7–9, 6–8hrs (longer if diverted via Hetauda)

🛏Local guesthouse, Besisahar (twin/triple, ~£8 pp)

• →Scenic bus ride through river valleys and terraced farmland
• →Settle into Besisahar

Take a shared jeep or local bus from Besisahar along the rough road to Dharapani (roughly 4–5 hours, ~£8–10 shared). Your ACAP and TIMS permits are checked at Dharapani. From there, trek ~2 hours / 6km up the Marshyangdi Valley through forest to Bagarchhap (2,160m) and your first traditional teahouse. Dinner and a bed for ~£6–8 including meals.

🚌Shared jeep/bus Besisahar–Dharapani ~£8–10, 4–5hrs; trek 6km / ~2hrs

🛏Teahouse, Bagarchhap (twin/triple, ~£4–6 pp + meals)

• →Permit check at Dharapani checkpoint
• →First Himalayan teahouse night

Hike ~6 hours / 14km, climbing through mixed rhododendron and oak forest past a small waterfall, gaining ~1,225m. Lunch at Timang village with panoramic views of Manaslu Peak, then continue past Thanchok and Koto to Chame, the district headquarters with its hot springs. Teahouse night.

🚌On foot, ~6hrs / 14km

🛏Teahouse, Chame (~£4–6 pp + meals)

• →Manaslu Peak viewpoints from Timang
• →Optional Chame hot springs

Climb above 3,000m for the first time. Cross the Marshyangdi River past a chorten, follow an undulating forest trail to Bhratang, then ascend to Dhikur Pokhari for lunch beneath the huge Swargadwari rock formation. The valley widens and vegetation thins as you arrive in Pisang. Watch for altitude symptoms tonight.

🚌On foot, ~6hrs / 14km

🛏Teahouse, Upper Pisang (~£4–6 pp + meals)

• →Swargadwari rock viewpoint
• →Upper Pisang gompa (monastery)

A long day: ~8–9 hours / 22km. Take the high route through yak pastures and crop fields, stopping at a remote Tibetan monastery, then climb the winding path to Ghyaru (3,670m) with its famous views of Annapurna II and III. The trail rolls through arid landscapes to Ngawal, lunch, then on to Manang village.

🚌On foot, ~8–9hrs / 22km

🛏Teahouse, Manang (~£4–6 pp + meals)

• →Ghyaru viewpoints
• →Ngawal village
• →Manang old town stone houses

Rest day to acclimatise. Stroll the old alleys of Manang with its thatched stone houses and prayer flags, drink smoky chai, and take an optional walk to Gangapurna Lake. Highly recommended: visit the Himalayan Rescue Association clinic for its free daily altitude-sickness talk (~10:30). Great spot to restock cash and snacks.

🚌On foot (short walks)

🛏Teahouse, Manang (~£4–6 pp + meals)

• →Himalayan Rescue Association altitude talk (free/donation)
• →Gangapurna Lake walk
• →Manang old town wander

A short, idyllic day: ~5 hours / 8km. Cross barley and buckwheat fields, cross the Thorang Khola via suspension bridge, and ascend gently through juniper forest to Khangsar, the last village in the area, then on to Sri Kharka. You'll notice the thin air — keep the pace slow. Teahouse night.

🚌On foot, ~5hrs / 8km

🛏Teahouse, Sri Kharka (~£4–6 pp + meals)

• →Khangsar village
• →Juniper forest trail

Today's exposed trail crosses an ~1.8km landslide scar with rockfall risk — the trickiest section of the trek. If you have no guide, this is the day many independent trekkers hire a local guide in Khangsar or Sri Kharka (~£25 for the day) for the crossing; check conditions with teahouse owners before setting out. Hike ~3–4 hours / 6km with views of Annapurna II and Gangapurna, using high suspension bridges. Rest up for the stars and an early start.

🚌On foot, ~3–4hrs / 6km

🛏Teahouse, Tilicho Base Camp (~£5–7 pp + meals)

• →Landslide-scar crossing (check conditions; local guide recommended ~£25)
• →High suspension bridges

Start before dawn with a head torch. Climb steeply to the pass, then level out to Tilicho Lake (4,919m) — one of the highest and most beautiful lakes in the world. Explore, then descend to Base Camp for breakfast and continue down to Sri Kharka. Total ~9–10 hours / 18km. A long, demanding, utterly rewarding day.

🚌On foot, ~9–10hrs / 18km

🛏Teahouse, Sri Kharka (~£4–6 pp + meals)

• →Tilicho Lake (4,919m)
• →High-altitude sunrise hike

Ascend gently to Old Khangsar with its ruined abandoned settlement and views over the Manang Valley. Climb past pastures, keep an eye out for yaks, then descend to the Thorang Khola River and rejoin the main Annapurna Circuit route to Yak Kharka. ~5 hours / 12km.

🚌On foot, ~5hrs / 12km

🛏Teahouse, Yak Kharka (~£5–7 pp + meals)

• →Old Khangsar ruins
• →Yak spotting
• →Rejoin main Annapurna Circuit trail

A short but slow, breathless day: ~4–5 hours / 7km. Pass Ledar village along a narrow dry path, cross the Thorang Khola River, and reach Thorong Phedi base camp by early afternoon. Eat early, hydrate, and get to bed — 04:00 start tomorrow. Load up on tea and carbs.

🚌On foot, ~4–5hrs / 7km

🛏Teahouse, Thorong Phedi (~£5–7 pp + meals)

• →Ledar village
• →Rest and prep for the pass

The big one. Start around 04:00, climb steeply to Thorong High Camp, then ascend gradually to Thorong La (5,416m) — the highest navigable pass in the world. Celebrate the views over the high desert mountains of the Kaligandaki Valley, then descend to Muktinath (3,750m) to visit the Vishnu temple, holy to both Hindus and Buddhists. ~10–12 hours / 17km. Start early to beat the wind.

🚌On foot, ~10–12hrs / 17km

🛏Teahouse, Muktinath or Ranipauwa (~£5–7 pp + meals)

• →Thorong La pass (5,416m)
• →Muktinath Vishnu temple
• →Kaligandaki Valley views

A long downhill day: ~6 hours / 18km. Follow the Kali Gandaki River through the deepest gorge on earth (three times deeper than the Grand Canyon), passing Kagbeni with views of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. End at Jomsom, gateway to the old Himalayan trade route. R&R, hot food, maybe an apple brandy.

🚌On foot, ~6hrs / 18km

🛏Teahouse or guesthouse, Jomsom (~£5–8 pp + meals)

• →Kagbeni village
• →Kali Gandaki gorge
• →Annapurna & Dhaulagiri views

Morning flight from Jomsom to Pokhara (~20 mins, ~£65–80; book direct with Yeti/Air Dynasty or via a local agent). In winter (mid-Nov to mid-Feb), flights don't operate — take a shared jeep/bus instead, ~7–8 hours (~£15–20). Settle into a lakeside guesthouse in Pokhara (Lakeside district) and celebrate over momos and a waterfront bar.

🚌Flight Jomsom–Pokhara ~£65–80 (or shared jeep/bus ~£15–20, 7–8hrs in winter)

🛏Budget guesthouse, Pokhara Lakeside (~£10–15 pp)

• →Himalayan mountain flight
• →Phewa Lake promenade
• →Celebratory dinner by the lake

Take a tourist bus from Pokhara to Kathmandu (~7–8 hours, ~£12–15) or, to save time, a domestic flight (~£90). Back in Kathmandu, check into a Thamel guesthouse and spend the evening on a rooftop restaurant or in Durbar Marg. Optional: pre-book a Nepali cooking class on GetYourGuide/Klook (~£25) for tomorrow.

🚌Tourist bus Pokhara–Kathmandu ~£12–15 (7–8hrs) or domestic flight ~£90

🛏Budget guesthouse, Thamel (~£8–12 pp)

• →Scenic mountain-highway drive
• →Thamel rooftop dinner
• →Optional Nepali cooking class (~£25)

Sleep in, then explore Kathmandu's World Heritage Sites — Boudhanath Stupa (among the largest in the world), Pashupatinath Temple, or Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple). Entry ~£2–4 each; a taxi between sights ~£2–3. Grab last-minute souvenirs in Thamel, then head to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight home.

🚌Local taxis ~£2–3 per hop; taxi to KTM airport ~£4–5

🛏None (or optional extra night ~£8–12)

• →Boudhanath Stupa (~£4)
• →Pashupatinath Temple (~£3)
• →Swayambhunath / Monkey Temple (~£2)