Annapurna Circuit & Tilicho Lake Trek — Self-Launched

Land at Tribhuvan International Airport and make your own way to a guesthouse in Thamel (pre-paid taxi ~£5, or local taxi meter). Get a Nepali SIM (Ncell or NTC, ~£2-3 for data/talk) and withdraw cash — ATMs in Thamel work but carry enough rupees for the trail as card use is unreliable in the mountains. Spend the evening wandering Thamel's narrow streets for gear shops (you can rent a down jacket and sleeping bag for ~£1/day each) and pick up your ACAP permit and TIMS card from the Nepal Tourism Board office on Pradarshani Marg.

🚌Airport taxi to Thamel ~£5

🛏Budget guesthouse in Thamel (~£10-15/night)

• →Explore Thamel's streets and gear shops
• →Buy a local SIM card
• →Visit Nepal Tourism Board office for ACAP/TIMS permits

Take a local bus or shared jeep from Kathmandu's Machha Pokhari or Gongabu bus park toward Besisahar (early departure, ~6-7 hours, ~£4-6). From Besisahar, catch a shared jeep to Syange (~2-3 hours, ~£3-4) along a rough mountain road. Alternatively, book a direct Kathmandu-Besisahar or Kathmandu-Syange tourist bus via a local agent. Arrive at Syange, a small village on the Marsyangdi River, and settle into a teahouse.

🚌Local bus Kathmandu-Besisahar ~£5, shared jeep to Syange ~£4

🛏Teahouse in Syange (~£4-6/night)

• →Scenic bus ride through Nepali countryside
• →Shared jeep to Syange

Begin the trek proper. Cross the suspension bridge over the Marsyangdi River and follow the trail through Chamje and Tal — a picturesque village set below a waterfall on the river. The walking is moderate, roughly 6-7 hours through terraced fields, bamboo, and rocky cliffs. Arrive at Dharapani, the first checkpoint on the ACAP permit route.

🚌On foot (~14km, 6-7 hrs)

🛏Teahouse in Dharapani (~£4-6/night)

• →Cross suspension bridge over Marsyangdi River
• →Trek through Chamje and Tal villages
• →Views of waterfalls and rocky cliffs

Trek from Dharapani through forest and small settlements to Bagarchhap, a Tibetan-style village with its distinctive mani wall and gompa. Continue along the left bank of the river past Koto — the gateway to the Nar Phu Valley trek — and on to Chame, the administrative center of Manang District. Look out for the striking rock face of Paungda Danda across the valley.

🚌On foot (~15km, 6-7 hrs)

🛏Teahouse in Chame (~£5-7/night)

• →Trek through Tibetan-style Bagarchhap village
• →Pass Koto (gateway to Nar Phu Valley)
• →Arrive at Chame, Manang's district center

A relatively gentle day. Walk through Telekhu Village with big views of Annapurna II and Pisang Peak (6,091m). Cross a suspension bridge to the south bank of the Marsyangdi River and climb through pine forest into the wide, flat valley where Pisang sits. The upper and lower Pisang villages offer excellent acclimatization terrain.

🚌On foot (~15km, 5-6 hrs)

🛏Teahouse in Pisang (~£5-7/night)

• →Trek past Telekhu Village
• →Views of Annapurna II and Pisang Peak
• →Cross suspension bridge to Pisang

Trek toward Manang, detouring to the Tibetan village of Braga to visit its gompa — the largest Buddhist temple in the Manang region, perched dramatically on a cliff. Continue down to Manang (3,540m), a large, lively village with bakeries, gear shops, and medical facilities — a common spot to rest before acclimatizing.

🚌On foot (~14km, 5-6 hrs)

🛏Teahouse in Manang (~£6-8/night)

• →Visit Braga Gompa (largest temple in Manang region)
• →Explore Manang village
• →Optional bakery stop for fresh apple pie

A rest day — but not a full rest. Take a short acclimatization hike up toward Khangsar (3,756m) or to the Gangapurna Lake viewpoint for the best views of Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Gangapurna, Tilicho, and Chulu West/East. Many trekkers also attend an altitude-sickness talk at the Himalayan Rescue Association clinic in Manang (donation-based). Pack extra cash for the higher sections — there are no ATMs beyond Manang.

🚌On foot (short hike, 3-4 hrs)

🛏Teahouse in Manang (~£6-8/night)

• →Acclimatization hike toward Khangsar (3,756m)
• →Gangapurna Lake viewpoint
• →Optional HRA altitude talk

A demanding but stunning day. Trek through alpine forest and the settlements of Khangsar and Siri Kharka, then follow a narrow, exposed trail across scree slopes to Tilicho Base Camp (4,150m). The last section is notorious for rockfall — cross it early in the day and keep moving. Arrive at the basic teahouse in time to watch sunset light up the surrounding peaks.

🚌On foot (~16km, 7-8 hrs)

🛏Basic teahouse at Tilicho Base Camp (~£8-10/night)

• →Trek via Khangsar and Siri Kharka
• →Exposed traverse to Tilicho Base Camp
• →Sunset mountain views

Start before dawn for the steep climb to Tilicho Lake (4,919m) — one of the highest lakes in the world, with striking turquoise glacial water. Spend time at the lake, then descend back to Base Camp and continue down to Shree Kharka for the night. This is a long, high-altitude day — pace yourself and watch for headache or breathlessness.

🚌On foot (~16km, 8-9 hrs)

🛏Teahouse at Shree Kharka (~£6-8/night)

• →Pre-dawn trek to Tilicho Lake (4,919m)
• →Photograph the turquoise glacial lake
• →Descend to Shree Kharka

Descend to Khangsar Village via Tare Gumba (3,870m), a Buddhist monastery site with sweeping valley views. Follow the Thorong Khola Valley past the abandoned village of Old Khangsar to Yak Kharka (4,050m), a small seasonal settlement of herders' teahouses. This is a common stop before the push to Thorong La.

🚌On foot (~14km, 6-7 hrs)

🛏Teahouse at Yak Kharka (~£6-8/night)

• →Visit Tare Gumba monastery site
• →Trek through Thorong Khola Valley
• →Pass abandoned Old Khangsar

Follow the east bank of the Jarang Khola to Thorong Phedi (4,450m), the base of the pass. If you're feeling strong and want a shorter summit day, continue the steep switchbacks up to High Camp (4,800m) — otherwise stay at Phedi and start earlier the next morning. Both have simple teahouses; High Camp is colder and busier in peak season.

🚌On foot (~10km, 5 hrs)

🛏Teahouse at Thorong Phedi or High Camp (~£7-9/night)

• →Trek along Jarang Khola
• →Optional ascent to High Camp (4,800m)
• →Wildlife spotting (blue sheep, lammergeier)

The big day. Start at 3-4am to cross Thorong La Pass (5,416m) before winds pick up. From the top you'll see Annapurna, Gangapurna, and Khatungkang (6,484m) in a full panorama. Then descend roughly 1,600m — a long, knee-bending walk to Muktinath and on to Jomsom, where you can finally enjoy a hot shower and apple brandy. The descent is long; consider stopping at Muktinath or Kagbeni if you're exhausted.

🚌On foot (~20km, 8-9 hrs)

🛏Guesthouse in Jomsom (~£8-10/night)

• →Summit Thorong La Pass (5,416m)
• →Panoramic views of Annapurna and Khatungkang
• →Descend via Muktinath to Jomsom

Take a shared jeep or local bus down the Kali Gandaki valley — the world's deepest gorge — from Jomsom to Tatopani (~4-5 hours, ~£8-10). The drive is bumpy but spectacular, passing through Marpha (famous for apple orchards) and Ghasa. Arrive at Tatopani and soak in the natural hot springs by the river in the late afternoon.

🚌Shared jeep Jomsom-Tatopani ~£9

🛏Teahouse/guesthouse in Tatopani (~£6-8/night)

• →Scenic jeep/bus through Kali Gandaki gorge
• →Stop at Marpha apple village
• →Soak in Tatopani hot springs

Cross the suspension bridge over the Kali Gandaki River and begin a long, steady climb through terraced farms, scattered villages, and eventually dense rhododendron forest — spectacular if you're here in spring when it blooms red. Arrive at Ghorepani (2,860m), a ridge-top village with views toward Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas.

🚌On foot (~16km, 7-8 hrs)

🛏Teahouse in Ghorepani (~£5-7/night)

• →Cross Kali Gandaki suspension bridge
• →Trek through terraced farmland
• →Walk through rhododendron forest

Set an alarm for 4am and hike 45 minutes up to Poon Hill (3,210m) for one of Nepal's most famous sunrises — a 180-degree panorama of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche, Nilgiri, Annapurna South, and Machhapuchhre lighting up one by one. Return to Ghorepani for breakfast, then trek on to Tadapani through forest and ridge.

🚌On foot (~12km, 6 hrs incl. Poon Hill)

🛏Teahouse in Tadapani (~£5-7/night)

• →Sunrise from Poon Hill (3,210m)
• →Panoramic Himalayan views
• →Trek to Tadapani

A shorter, easier day down through forested hills with near-constant views of Machhapuchhre (Fishtail) and Annapurna South. Arrive at Ghandruk, a traditional Gurung village with a good museum, homestay-style teahouses, and a relaxed atmosphere. This is a great place to slow down and interact with the local community.

🚌On foot (~8km, 4 hrs)

🛏Teahouse/homestay in Ghandruk (~£6-8/night)

• →Views of Machhapuchhre and Annapurna South
• →Explore Ghandruk village and Gurung museum
• →Optional homestay experience

A short final trek down to Nayapul, then catch a local bus or shared jeep to Pokhara (~1.5-2 hours, ~£2-3). Check into a lakeside guesthouse, then spend the afternoon doing nothing at a café by Phewa Tal — or rent a kayak/boat. Watch the sunset over the lake with the Annapurnas reflected behind.

🚌On foot then local bus Nayapul-Pokhara ~£3

🛏Lakeside guesthouse in Pokhara (~£10-15/night)

• →Trek to Nayapul
• →Bus to Pokhara
• →Sunset cafés by Phewa Tal
• →Optional boat/kayak on the lake

Take a tourist bus from Pokhara to Kathmandu (~7-8 hours, ~£8-12) — comfortable enough with reclining seats, though flights are also available via Buddha Air/Yeti if you'd rather save the day (~£80-100). Arrive in Kathmandu in the evening and return to a Thamel guesthouse. Last chance for momos and a celebratory dal bhat.

🚌Tourist bus Pokhara-Kathmandu ~£10

🛏Budget guesthouse in Thamel (~£10-15/night)

• →Scenic bus ride Pokhara-Kathmandu
• →Evening in Thamel
• →Celebratory dinner

Depending on your flight time, squeeze in a final Thamel breakfast or a quick visit to Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple). Head to Tribhuvan International Airport by taxi (~£5) for your onward flight. Allow 2-3 hours before departure for international check-in.

🚌Taxi to airport ~£5

🛏N/A (departure day)

• →Optional Swayambhunath visit
• →Taxi to airport