Self-Launched Argentina, Chile & the Heart of Patagonia

Fly into Ezeiza (EZE) and take the Tienda León shuttle or public bus 8 into the city (~£6–12) rather than a private transfer. Check into a hostel in San Telmo or Palermo (dorms ~£12, private rooms ~£30). In the late afternoon walk Recoleta and the Obelisk, then book an intimate tango dinner show in San Telmo or at Café de los Angelitos via GetYourGuide (~£35–55) — the budget versions are just as atmospheric as the tour's included performance. Finish with a parrilla asado at a neighbourhood grill (~£10).

🚌Airport shuttle or public bus 8 (~£6–12); walking and SUBE card buses/metro around town

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse, San Telmo or Palermo (dorm ~£12, private ~£30)

• →Self-booked tango dinner show
• →Recoleta & Obelisk stroll
• →Neighbourhood asado dinner

Do the city's layers on foot and by bus. Morning in Recoleta (cemetery ~£8), then Plaza de Mayo, the Casa Rosada and San Telmo's cobbled antiques market. Afternoon in La Boca for the Caminito murals — stick to the main tourist strip. Cross the Riachuelo to Isla Maciel on the historic 1914 transporter bridge and join a community-run walking tour with street art, empanadas and mate (~£15–20, book direct or via GetYourGuide). Eat dinner in San Telmo (~£9).

🚌SUBE card on buses and metro (~£3 total), transporter bridge crossing (~£0.30)

🛏Same San Telmo or Palermo hostel

• →Recoleta Cemetery
• →La Boca & Caminito
• →Community street-art walk on Isla Maciel
• →Empanadas and mate tasting

Fly Buenos Aires (AEP) to El Calafate (FTE) — book early on Aerolíneas Argentinas or Flybondi, roughly £90–160 one way. Shuttle from the airport into town (~£6). Check into a hostel or hospedaje (~£15 dorm, ~£35 private). Afternoon at the Glaciarium and its ice bar: entry ~£12, and although the private glaciologist briefing is a tour perk, the museum's guided talks run daily and cover the same Southern Patagonian Icefield story. Evening meal of lamb stew or trout (~£10).

🚌Domestic flight AEP–FTE (~£90–160); airport shuttle (~£6)

🛏Hostel or hospedaje, El Calafate (~£15 dorm / £35 private)

• →Glaciarium & interactive ice museum
• →Guided glaciology talk
• →El Calafate town walk

Book a shared day tour or use the public Cal-Tur bus to the glacier (~£20 return) and pay the national park entry (~£18 for foreigners). Walk the network of boardwalks over the glacier's face and, if budget allows, add the mini-trekking ice walk (~£110) or just the cheaper boat approach (~£25). The calving ice is the headline and it's free once you're on the walkways. Picnic lunch saves on the expensive park cafeteria (~£5). Back in El Calafate for dinner (~£10).

🚌Cal-Tur or shared shuttle to the glacier (~£20 return)

🛏Same El Calafate hostel

• →Perito Moreno boardwalks
• →Optional glacier ice trek or boat approach
• →National park walking trails

Take a full-day boat cruise on Lago Argentino to see the Spegazzini and Upsala glaciers and their floating icebergs — self-book with Solo Patagonia or MarPatag via GetYourGuide (~£95–130 including park fees and often lunch). Cruises leave from Punta Bandera, about 45 minutes from town; most operators include transfers from El Calafate for a small fee. Dress in real layers, it's windy and cold on the water. Cheap dinner back in town (~£9).

🚌Operator transfer to Punta Bandera (~£8) or shared taxi

🛏Same El Calafate hostel

• →Full-day Lago Argentino glacier cruise
• →Spegazzini & Upsala glacier viewpoints
• →Iceberg spotting

Cross into Chile. Take the daily public bus El Calafate to Puerto Natales (~5–6 hours, ~£25) — book with Bus-Sur or Turismo Zaahj in advance and remember your passport for the border at Cerro Castillo. Check into a hostel in Puerto Natales (~£14 dorm). Sort your Torres del Paine park logistics — buy the CONAF park pass online in advance (~£25 for foreigners) and confirm your day 7 transport. Evening bowls of cazuela or seafood chowder on the waterfront (~£9).

🚌Public bus El Calafate–Puerto Natales (~£25)

🛏Hostel in Puerto Natales (~£14 dorm / £35 private)

• →Border crossing into Chilean Patagonia
• →Puerto Natales waterfront walk
• →Buy Torres del Paine park pass

Join a shared day tour or take the public bus from Puerto Natales into the park (~£18 each way, plus park entry). Do the classic Base of the Towers hike — around 19km and 8–9 hours of the same jagged granite spires and turquoise lagoon the guided group sees, at a fraction of the price. Pack lunch, water and layers (weather flips fast). Alternatively, choose a shorter hike or the Grey Glacier sector if you'd prefer a gentler day. Dinner back in Puerto Natales (~£9).

🚌Shared day tour or public bus into the park (~£30–40 return including entry)

🛏Same Puerto Natales hostel

• →Base of the Towers day hike
• →Torres del Paine viewpoints
• →Alternative Grey Lake sector hike

Fly Puerto Natales (PNT) to Santiago (SCL) — typically via a connection, book early for ~£110–180. In Santiago check into a hostel in Bellavista or Lastarria (~£16 dorm, ~£40 private) rather than the tour's Hotel Singular, and explore the Lastarria galleries and cafés on foot. Ride the funicular up Cerro San Cristóbal for city and Andes views (~£3). Dinner at Mercado Central or a Lastarria bistro (~£12).

🚌Domestic flight PNT–SCL (~£110–180); metro and walking in Santiago (~£3)

🛏Hostel in Bellavista or Lastarria, Santiago (~£16 dorm / £40 private)

• →Fly Patagonia to Santiago
• →Lastarria & Bellavista neighbourhoods
• →Cerro San Cristóbal funicular

Last morning in Chile. Wander the Mercado Central, visit the Museo de la Memoria or Pre-Columbian Art Museum (~£8) and grab a coffee in Lastarria. Take the CentroPuerto or Turbus airport bus to SCL (~£3–6) for a flight departing no earlier than 17:00, matching the original tour's onward travel window. If you're flying on, Buen viaje.

🚌Airport bus to SCL (~£3–6)

🛏None — departure day (or extend your stay independently)

• →Mercado Central
• →Optional museum visit
• →Lastarria stroll