Self-Launched Caucasus Explorer: Armenia, Georgia & Azerbaijan

Fly into Heydar Aliyev International Airport (GYD). Take the H1 airport bus into the city centre for about £1, or a metered taxi for around £8-10. Check into your guesthouse in or near the Old City (İçərişəhər). Spend the evening strolling the Baku Boulevard seafront promenade and get your bearings. Grab an Azerbaijani dinner of plov and dolma at a local teahouse.

🚌Airport bus H1 or taxi to city centre

🛏Old City Inn or Sahil Hostel, Baku — budget guesthouse/hostel in the Old City (~£15-20/night dorm, ~£30-40 private room)

• →Arrive at Heydar Aliyev International Airport — take H1 bus to centre (~£1) or taxi (~£8)
• →Check into guesthouse near İçərişəhər Old City
• →Evening stroll along Baku Boulevard
• →Dinner at a local Azerbaijani teahouse

Spend a full day exploring Baku's historic Old City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Maiden's Tower, Juma Mosque, and Palace of the Shirvanshahs are all within walking distance of each other inside the walled city. Book a self-guided audio tour via GetYourGuide or simply use a free Rick Steves-style walking guide downloaded in advance. In the afternoon, visit the futuristic Flame Towers viewpoint and Nizami Street. Breakfast included at guesthouse.

🚌Walking within Old City

🛏Old City Inn or Sahil Hostel, Baku

• →Self-guided walk through İçərişəhər (Old City UNESCO site) — free entry to wander
• →Visit Maiden's Tower — entry ~£2
• →Visit Juma Mosque — free
• →Visit Palace of the Shirvanshahs — entry ~£2
• →Afternoon: Flame Towers viewpoint and Nizami Street shopping district
• →Book a guided walking tour of the Old City via GetYourGuide (~£12-18pp)

This is best done as a day trip from Baku. Take bus 195 from Avtovagzal bus station to Gobustan (~45 mins, ~£1) to visit the UNESCO-listed rock art reserve and excellent on-site museum. Hire a local taxi driver at the site to take you to the nearby mud volcanoes (~£5-8 return). Return towards Baku and stop at Ateshgah Fire Temple and Bibi-Heybat Mosque, both easily reached by city bus or taxi. Lunch at a roadside café near Gobustan.

🚌City bus 195 to Gobustan (~£1); local taxi for mud volcanoes (~£6-8); city buses/taxi for Ateshgah (~£3-5)

🛏Old City Inn or Sahil Hostel, Baku

• →Bus 195 from Avtovagzal to Gobustan (~£1 each way)
• →Gobustan Rock Art Cultural Landscape & Museum — entry ~£3
• →Taxi from Gobustan to Mud Volcanoes and back (~£6-8)
• →Visit Ateshgah Fire Temple — entry ~£2 (bus/taxi from city)
• →Visit Bibi-Heybat Mosque — free
• →Lunch at roadside café near Gobustan (~£4-6)

Take an early marshrutka from Baku's Avtovagzal bus station towards Sheki (~4 hrs, ~£4-5). Ask the driver to stop in Shamakhi en route (or take a separate local minibus) to visit the Juma Mosque and Shirvanshah Tombs — both are a short walk from the roadside. Continue to Sheki and check into a guesthouse. Sheki is famous for its Sheki Khans' Palace and beautiful caravanserai. Explore the bazaar and try the local piti stew for dinner.

🚌Marshrutka Baku to Sheki (~£4-5, ~4 hrs)

🛏Caravanserai Hotel or Sheki Saray Guesthouse, Sheki (~£20-30/night)

• →Early marshrutka Baku → Sheki via Shamakhi (~4 hrs, ~£4-5)
• →Stop in Shamakhi: Juma Mosque (free) and Shirvanshah Tombs (~£1)
• →Check into guesthouse in Sheki
• →Afternoon visit to Sheki Khans' Palace (~£2) and Upper Caravanserai
• →Evening: Sheki bazaar and dinner of local piti stew (~£4-6)

Take a shared taxi from Sheki to the Georgian border at Lagodekhi (~1.5 hrs, ~£5-8). Cross the border on foot (straightforward for most nationalities — check visa requirements in advance) and take a marshrutka or shared taxi to Sighnaghi (~1 hr, ~£3-5), the charming 'city of love' with its famous walls and views over the Alazani Valley. Explore the town on foot — it's small and very walkable. In the late afternoon, take a marshrutka to Tbilisi (~2 hrs, ~£3-5). Check into a hostel in the Fabrika or old town district.

🚌Shared taxi to Georgian border (~£6); marshrutka to Sighnaghi (~£4); marshrutka to Tbilisi (~£4)

🛏Fabrika Hostel or Envoy Hostel, Tbilisi (~£12-18 dorm, ~£35-45 private)

• →Shared taxi Sheki → Lagodekhi border crossing (~£5-8)
• →Border crossing into Georgia (check visa requirements for your nationality)
• →Marshrutka/shared taxi to Sighnaghi (~£3-5)
• →Self-guided walk around Sighnaghi's ancient walls and town (~free)
• →Optional: wine tasting at a local family winery in Sighnaghi (~£5-10)
• →Marshrutka Sighnaghi → Tbilisi (~£3-5, ~2 hrs)

Take a marshrutka or train from Tbilisi's Didube station to Gori (~1.5 hrs, £2-3). Explore Gori's Stalin Museum (controversial but fascinating, entry ~£5) and the Gori Fortress above the town. Then take a local taxi or marshrutka the 15km to Uplistsikhe, an ancient rock-hewn cave town with sweeping views over the Mtkvari River (~£4-6 return taxi). Return to Tbilisi by marshrutka in the evening. Dinner in Tbilisi's old town — try khinkali dumplings.

🚌Marshrutka Tbilisi–Gori (~£2-3); taxi to Uplistsikhe (~£5 return); marshrutka back to Tbilisi (~£2-3)

🛏Fabrika Hostel or Envoy Hostel, Tbilisi

• →Marshrutka Tbilisi (Didube) → Gori (~£2-3, ~1.5 hrs)
• →Gori Stalin Museum — entry ~£5
• →Gori Fortress — free to explore
• →Taxi or marshrutka Gori → Uplistsikhe (~£4-6 return)
• →Uplistsikhe ancient rock-hewn town — entry ~£3
• →Marshrutka back to Tbilisi (~£2-3)
• →Dinner in Tbilisi old town — khinkali and Georgian wine (~£8-12)

One of the most spectacular day trips in the Caucasus. Take a shared taxi or minibus from Tbilisi's Didube station heading to Stepantsminda (Kazbegi), stopping at Ananuri fortress (~£5-8 total for shared taxi to Stepantsminda, arrange with driver to stop). From Stepantsminda, hike up to Gergeti Holy Trinity Church (~2 hrs each way, free) or hire a local 4x4 (~£8-12 per person shared). The church sits at 2,170m with jaw-dropping views of Mt Kazbek. Overnight in Stepantsminda — book ahead as it's popular.

🚌Shared taxi/minibus Tbilisi → Stepantsminda (~£7, ~3 hrs); local 4x4 to Gergeti (~£10pp shared)

🛏Rooms Hotel Kazbegi (budget option: Kazbegi Guesthouse or Stepantsminda Hostel, ~£15-25/night)

• →Shared taxi/minibus Tbilisi → Stepantsminda via Ananuri (~£6-8, stop at Ananuri on request)
• →Ananuri fortress & reservoir — free entry
• →Gudauri viewpoint stop en route
• →Hike to Gergeti Holy Trinity Church (2-3 hrs return, free) OR shared 4x4 taxi (~£8-12pp)
• →Visit Gergeti Holy Trinity Church with Mt Kazbek views
• →Overnight in Stepantsminda — evening in the village

Take the early morning shared taxi back to Tbilisi (~£7). Spend a few hours exploring Tbilisi's old town properly: the sulfur bath district (Abanotubani), Narikala Fortress (free, take the cable car for ~£1), and the Bridge of Peace. Then head to the international bus station and catch a marshrutka or shared taxi to Dilijan in Armenia (~4-5 hrs including border crossing, ~£10-15). Check into accommodation in Dilijan's charming Old Town district.

🚌Shared taxi Stepantsminda → Tbilisi (~£7); marshrutka/shared taxi to Dilijan (~£12)

🛏Dilijan Hostel or local guesthouse, Dilijan (~£15-25/night)

• →Shared taxi Stepantsminda → Tbilisi (~£7, ~3 hrs)
• →Tbilisi Old Town: Abanotubani sulfur baths district, Narikala Fortress (free)
• →Cable car to Narikala (~£1 each way)
• →Bridge of Peace and Rike Park
• →Marshrutka/shared taxi Tbilisi → Dilijan via Georgian-Armenian border (~£10-15, ~4-5 hrs)
• →Evening stroll in Dilijan Old Town (Sharambeyan Street)

A packed day through Armenia's highlights. Take a marshrutka from Dilijan to Sevan town on the shores of Lake Sevan (~1 hr, ~£2-3). Walk up to Sevanavank Monastery on the peninsula (free, stunning views). Then catch a shared taxi or marshrutka towards Yerevan and get off near Garni (~£3-5). Visit Garni Temple (entry ~£2), the only standing Hellenistic temple in the former USSR, then walk or take a taxi the 9km to Geghard Monastery (entry free, UNESCO site). Taxi back to main road and marshrutka on to Yerevan (~£2-3). Check into a hostel in central Yerevan.

🚌Marshrutka Dilijan → Sevan (~£2); shared taxi/marshrutka to Garni area (~£4); taxi Garni–Geghard (~£5); marshrutka to Yerevan (~£2)

🛏Envoy Hostel Yerevan or Kantar Hostel (~£12-18 dorm, ~£35-45 private)

• →Marshrutka Dilijan → Sevan (~£2-3, ~1 hr)
• →Sevanavank Monastery on Lake Sevan — free
• →Shared taxi/marshrutka towards Yerevan, alight for Garni (~£4)
• →Garni Temple — entry ~£2
• →Taxi Garni → Geghard (~£4-5 shared)
• →Geghard Monastery — free (UNESCO)
• →Marshrutka Geghard area → Yerevan (~£2-3)
• →Evening on Republic Square, Yerevan — musical fountains (free)

Explore central Yerevan on foot — it's a compact, very walkable pink-tuff city. Visit the Cascade complex (free, great city views), the History Museum of Armenia (~£3), and Republic Square. Then take a marshrutka to Vagharshapat (Etchmiadzin) — Armenia's religious capital and a UNESCO World Heritage Site (~30 mins, ~£0.50-1). Visit the Etchmiadzin Cathedral (free), the oldest cathedral in the world, and surrounding churches. Return to Yerevan in the evening for dinner in the lively Tumanyan Street area.

🚌Walking in Yerevan; marshrutka to Etchmiadzin and back (~£1 total)

🛏Envoy Hostel Yerevan or Kantar Hostel

• →Yerevan Cascade complex — free, great city views
• →Republic Square and History Museum of Armenia (~£3)
• →Marshrutka to Vagharshapat/Etchmiadzin (~£0.50-1, ~30 mins)
• →Etchmiadzin Cathedral (UNESCO) — free
• →St. Hripsime and St. Gayane churches nearby — free
• →Marshrutka back to Yerevan (~£0.50-1)
• →Evening dinner on Tumanyan Street (~£8-12)

The best day trip from Yerevan. Hire a shared taxi from Yerevan for the day to cover Khor Virap, Areni wine village, and Noravank (~£20-25pp in a group, or hire privately for ~£40-50 for the car). Khor Virap monastery has the most iconic view in Armenia — Mt Ararat rising behind it. Stop at Areni village for wine tasting at Old Bridge Winery or a local family winery (tastings from ~£3-5). Noravank monastery is set dramatically in a red-rock canyon. Return to Yerevan for a final dinner — try khorovats (Armenian BBQ).

🚌Shared or private taxi for full day trip (~£22pp shared)

🛏Envoy Hostel Yerevan or Kantar Hostel

• →Hired shared taxi Yerevan → Khor Virap → Areni → Noravank → Yerevan (~£20-25pp shared, or ~£45-55 private car)
• →Khor Virap Monastery — free, iconic Mt Ararat views
• →Wine tasting at Areni family winery or Old Bridge Winery (~£4-8)
• →Noravank Monastery — free
• →Return to Yerevan — farewell dinner with khorovats (~£10-15)

Check out of your accommodation and transfer to Zvartnots International Airport (EVN). A taxi costs ~£8-12 or take bus 201 for ~£0.50. If you have time before your flight, visit the Vernissage flea market (open weekends) or grab a final Armenian coffee and pastry at one of Yerevan's excellent cafés. Safe travels!

🚌Taxi or bus 201 to Zvartnots International Airport (~£0.50-10)

• →Check out and transfer to Zvartnots Airport — taxi (~£10) or bus 201 (~£0.50)
• →Optional: final visit to Vernissage open-air market (weekends)
• →Final Armenian coffee and meze breakfast at a local café