Balkan Grand Circle: 22 Days Belgrade to Zagreb (Self-Launched)

Fly into Nikola Tesla Airport and take A1 shuttle bus or Bus 72 into the city centre (~£2.50, ~40 min) rather than a taxi (~£20). Check into a hostel in Dorćol or Savamala. Ease in with a wander through Skadarlija, the cobbled bohemian quarter, and an evening kafana dinner with live tamburica music (ćevapi and rakija, ~£12).

🚌Airport shuttle bus A1 ~£2.50

🛏Hostel in Dorćol/Savamala — ~£16 (dorm) to £26 (private)

• →Skadarlija bohemian quarter
• →Kafana dinner with live music

Free walking tour from Republic Square (tip-based, ~£4 tip) covering Knez Mihailova Street, Kalemegdan Park and Belgrade Fortress with Danube–Sava confluence views. Independently visit the Temple of Saint Sava (free entry, ~20 min on Tram 2 or a 30-min walk) and the Museum of Yugoslavia. Book a Sava/Danube sunset cruise on GetYourGuide (~£12) or grab a beer at the floating splavovi on the river.

🚌Tram/bus day ticket ~£2

🛏Hostel in Dorćol/Savamala — ~£16–26

• →Free walking tour of Belgrade
• →Belgrade Fortress & Kalemegdan
• →Temple of Saint Sava
• →Optional Sava/Danube sunset cruise

Take an early train or bus from Belgrade to Novi Sad (~£5, 1–1.5 h). From Novi Sad bus station, hop a local bus to Sremski Karlovci (~£1) for the Patriarchal Court and Orthodox Cathedral of St Nicholas, and to Krušedol Monastery (bus + 30-min walk, or a cheap taxi). Book a Fruška Gora winery tasting (Bermet wine) direct with a family winery, ~£10–15. Return via Petrovaradin Fortress for Danube views and the Novi Sad pedestrian zone, then bus back to Belgrade.

🚌Belgrade–Novi Sad train/bus ~£5 each way + local buses ~£3

🛏Hostel in Belgrade — ~£16–26

• →Sremski Karlovci old town
• →Krušedol Monastery
• →Fruška Gora wine tasting
• →Petrovaradin Fortress
• →Novi Sad old town

Long travel day. Take the 06:00-ish bus or train Belgrade–Timișoara (~£12, 4–5 h). Wander Unirii Square, Liberty Square and Victory Square in a couple of hours. Then take an evening bus or train Timișoara–Sibiu (~£8–10, 4–5 h; check Flixbus and Romanian CFR trains). Arrive late; stay in a guesthouse in the Lower Town.

🚌Belgrade–Timișoara ~£12; Timișoara–Sibiu ~£10

🛏Guesthouse/hostel in Sibiu Lower Town — ~£20

• →Timișoara Unirii Square
• →Catholic Cathedral of St George
• →Liberty & Victory Squares

Morning free walking tour of Sibiu old town (tip-based) — Large Square, Small Square, Council Tower, Bridge of Lies, Stairs Passage. Afternoon at Astra National Museum Complex (entry ~£4), Europe's biggest open-air museum, reached by bus/trolley ~30 min from centre. If you want the Transfăgărășan drive, book a full-day car-and-driver or small-group tour from Sibiu on GetYourGuide (~£45–60, June–Oct only) — not feasible on public transport.

🚌Local buses ~£2

🛏Guesthouse in Sibiu — ~£20

• →Free walking tour of Sibiu
• →Astra open-air museum
• →Optional Transfăgărășan small-group day tour

Take the train Sibiu–Brașov (~£4, 2.5 h), drop bags at a hostel, then use buses/trains. From Brașov take Bus 20 or the train to Bran Castle (~£2, entry ~£10). Return to Brașov for the Piața Sfatului walking loop and the Black Church (~£3). Late afternoon train Brașov–Sinaia (~£1.50, 1 h) to sleep at the foot of the mountains.

🚌Train Sibiu–Brașov ~£4; local buses/trains ~£5; Brașov–Sinaia ~£1.50

🛏Guesthouse in Sinaia — ~£22

• →Bran Castle
• →Brașov old town & Black Church
• →Evening train to Sinaia

Book Peleș Castle tickets online in advance (Peleș is closed Mondays; ~£8). Walk or bus from Sinaia centre (~30 min). In the afternoon take the train Sinaia–Bucharest (~£4, 1.5 h). For Dealu Mare, the easiest DIY option is a half-day wine tour from Bucharest booked on GetYourGuide (~£50) or a direct tasting at a Dealu Mare winery if you're driving — otherwise skip it and enjoy Bucharest's Old Town instead.

🚌Train Sinaia–Bucharest ~£4; local buses ~£2

🛏Hostel in Bucharest Old Town — ~£18

• →Peleș Castle
• →Optional Dealu Mare wine tasting
• →Bucharest Old Town evening

Book the Palace of the Parliament guided tour in advance (ID required, ~£10). Free walking tour of the Old Town in the afternoon (tip-based) covering the Romanian Athenaeum, Royal Palace and Stavropoleos Monastery. Walk or metro to Arcul de Triumf and Bulevardul Unirii for the Ceaușescu-era panorama. Cheap evening: mici and a beer in the Lipscani district, ~£10.

🚌Metro day pass ~£2

🛏Hostel in Bucharest — ~£18

• →Palace of the Parliament tour
• →Free walking tour of Old Town
• →Arcul de Triumf & Bulevardul Unirii

Bucharest–Ruse by bus or train (~£6, 2–2.5 h), cross the Danube, then bus Ruse–Veliko Tarnovo (~£6, 2.5 h). Check into a guesthouse in the old town. Late-afternoon walk of the cobbled Asen Quarter and Tsarevets Fortress exterior for sunset (fortress entry ~£4). Dinner of shopska salad and grilled meat ~£9.

🚌Bucharest–Ruse ~£6; Ruse–Veliko Tarnovo ~£6

🛏Guesthouse in Veliko Tarnovo — ~£22

• →Danube crossing at Ruse
• →Tsarevets Fortress at sunset
• →Veliko Tarnovo cobbled old town

Morning local bus to Arbanasi (~£1) to wander the heritage village and its painted churches (~£2–3 entries). Then bus/taxi to Gabrovo and on to the Etar open-air ethnographic museum (~£8 total, entry ~£3) — soap-making demos included with the ticket. Bus Gabrovo–Plovdiv (~£7, 3 h), ideally with a Kazanlak stop for the Valley of Roses / Damascena complex. Evening in Plovdiv's Kapana creative quarter.

🚌Local buses + Gabrovo–Plovdiv ~£8

🛏Guesthouse/hostel in Plovdiv Kapana — ~£20

• →Arbanasi village
• →Etar Ethnographic Museum
• →Kapana district
• →Optional Valley of Roses

Morning free walking tour of Plovdiv Old Town (tip-based) plus the Ancient Theatre of Philippopolis (free to view; ~£4 for a performance). Afternoon bus to Sofia (~£6, 2–2.5 h). Evening free walking tour or self-guided loop past Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, St George's Rotunda, Banya Bashi Mosque, the Synagogue and the Largo.

🚌Plovdiv–Sofia bus ~£6; metro ~£1

🛏Hostel in central Sofia — ~£16

• →Plovdiv Old Town
• →Ancient Theatre
• →Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
• →Sofia city landmarks

Bus Sofia–Niš (~£10, 3 h). Visit Niš Fortress (free) and Tinkers Alley, with a lunch of ćevapi and sarma (~£8). If timing allows, a local bus toward Despotovac for Manasija Monastery (often better done as a cheap half-day taxi, ~£25 split). Evening bus Niš–Belgrade (~£10, 3 h). Note: doing both Niš and Manasija on public transport is tight — consider picking one.

🚌Sofia–Niš ~£10; Niš–Belgrade ~£10; local ~£5

🛏Hostel in Belgrade — ~£16–26

• →Niš Fortress
• →Tinkers Alley
• →Optional Manasija Monastery

Bus from Belgrade to Topola/Oplenac (~£5, 1.5 h) for the Karađorđević mausoleum and the royal winery (~£4 entry, tasting ~£10). Continue by bus toward Užice/Zlatibor (~£8, 3 h) — Zlatibor's mountain guesthouses are cheap and the air is fresh. Evening kafana dinner of traditional Serbian food ~£11.

🚌Belgrade–Topola ~£5; Topola–Zlatibor ~£8; local ~£3

🛏Mountain guesthouse in Zlatibor — ~£20

• →Oplenac royal mausoleum
• →Royal winery tasting
• →Zlatibor mountain evening

Local bus to Mokra Gora (~£3) for Drvengrad/Wooden Town (entry ~£3) and the Šargan Eight heritage railway (§argan Eight tickets ~£10, book ahead in summer). Then bus Mokra Gora/Višegrad–Sarajevo (~£10, 3–4 h), with a stop in Višegrad for the Drina Bridge and Andrićgrad. Arrive Sarajevo late; stay in Baščaršija.

🚌Local buses ~£5; to Sarajevo ~£10

🛏Guesthouse/hostel in Baščaršija — ~£18

• →Drvengrad Wooden Town
• →Šargan Eight heritage train
• →Višegrad Drina Bridge

Free walking tour of Baščaršija (tip-based) covering the Sacred Heart Cathedral, the Old Orthodox Church, Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, the Sahat Tower and Vijećnica (city hall, ~£3 entry). DIY food crawl: burek (~£2), ćevapi at a Baščaršija ćevabdžinica (~£4), Bosnian coffee (~£1.50) and baklava (~£2). Finish at the Latin Bridge and the Eternal Flame.

🚌Tram ~£1

🛏Guesthouse/hostel in Baščaršija — ~£18

• →Free walking tour of Sarajevo
• →Baščaršija food crawl
• →Vijećnica city hall
• →Latin Bridge

Early train Sarajevo–Mostar (~£6, 2 h — one of Europe's most scenic rail routes). Walking tour of the Old Bridge, Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque (~£5) and the Crooked Bridge; optional copper-modelling workshop via a local artisan (~£20). Afternoon bus Mostar–Trebinje (~£6, 2 h) for the Arslanagića Bridge and Poet's Square at dusk.

🚌Train to Mostar ~£6; bus to Trebinje ~£6

🛏Guesthouse in Trebinje — ~£18

• →Sarajevo–Mostar scenic train
• →Old Bridge & Old Town Mostar
• →Optional copper workshop
• →Trebinje old town

Morning at Trebinje's green market, then bus to Herceg Novi (~£3) and across to Kotor (~£3). Explore Perast's baroque waterfront, take the short boat to Our Lady of the Rocks (~£5), and walk Kotor's old town — St Tryphon's Cathedral and the churches of St Nicholas and St Luke. Late bus Kotor–Dubrovnik (~£12, 2.5 h, border crossing).

🚌Local buses ~£6; Kotor–Dubrovnik ~£12

🛏Hostel/sobe in Dubrovnik Lapad — ~£28

• →Trebinje local market
• →Perast & Our Lady of the Rocks boat
• →Kotor old town

Free walking tour of the old town (tip-based) covering Stradun, Pile Gate, the Rector's Palace and the port. Walk the City Walls early or late to dodge crowds and heat (~£30 — the single big splurge of the trip). Cable car to Srđ Hill ~£12, or hike up free. Swim off the rocks at Buža bar and eat a cheap 'marenda' lunch ~£10.

🚌Local bus ~£1.50

🛏Hostel/sobe in Dubrovnik — ~£28

• →Free walking tour of Dubrovnik
• →City Walls walk
• →Optional Srđ cable car
• →Swim at Buža

Bus Dubrovnik–Ston (~£5, 1.5 h) for oysters on the Mali Ston waterfront (~£8) and a peek at the Ston Walls. Continue Ston–Split by bus (~£10, 2.5 h). Late-afternoon walking tour of Diocletian's Palace via the Golden Gate (free entry to the palace; ~£5 for the cathedral and Temple of Jupiter). Sunset on the Riva.

🚌Dubrovnik–Ston ~£5; Ston–Split ~£10

🛏Hostel/guesthouse in Split old town — ~£24

• →Ston oyster lunch
• →Diocletian's Palace
• →Cathedral of St Domnius
• →Riva promenade

High-speed catamaran Split–Hvar Town return (~£25–30, 1 h each way, book on Krilo/Jadrolinija). Wander the harbour, the Renaissance cathedral and the Franciscan monastery (~£3). Optional water taxi to the Pakleni Islands (~£8 return) for a swim, or hike the coastal trail to Milna Bay. Evening ferry back to Split.

🚌Catamaran return ~£28; water taxi ~£8

🛏Hostel/guesthouse in Split — ~£24

• →Catamaran to Hvar
• →Hvar old town
• →Optional Pakleni Islands swim
• →Hike to Milna Bay

The awkward leg: buses Split–Plitvice are limited, so take an early bus (~£18, 4 h) and store bags at the park. Buy Plitvice park tickets online in advance (~£30, timed entry). After 3–4 hours on the boardwalks (upper and lower lakes), take an afternoon bus Plitvice–Zagreb (~£10, 2 h). Or split it by sleeping overnight near the park and finishing in the morning.

🚌Split–Plitvice ~£18; Plitvice–Zagreb ~£10

🛏Hostel in Zagreb centre — ~£18

• →Plitvice Lakes National Park boardwalks

Free walking tour of Kaptol and Gradec (tip-based): Dolac farmers' market, the Church of St Mary, the Franciscan monastery and Church of St Francis, and Ban Jelačić's monument. Coffee and a štrukli for breakfast ~£5. Airport bus from the main bus station (~£4, 30 min) for flights home.

🚌Airport bus ~£4

🛏Hostel in Zagreb (final night or onward flight) — ~£18

• →Dolac market
• →Kaptol & St Mark's Church
• →Ban Jelačić Square