Wonders of Bhutan — Self-Launched

Land at Paro (flights from Bangkok, Kathmandu, Delhi or Kolkata on DrukAir or Bhutan Airlines — book direct, roughly £300-450 return from Bangkok). Your pre-arranged local guide-driver meets you at arrivals (essential: Bhutan requires tourists to travel with a licensed guide). The 1.5-hour drive to Thimphu crosses terraced fields and river valleys. Check into a simple guesthouse near Norzin Lam, then take an easy evening stroll to the Clock Tower Square and the main bazaar. Arrange your guide-driver through a licensed Bhutanese agency (e.g. a small Thimphu operator) or via a local freelance guide listed on Bhutan's tourism directory — expect around £60-80/day for guide + vehicle, which you can split with 1-3 other travellers.

🚌Airport pickup by private car (~£25 shared); DrukAir flight booked direct

🛏Guesthouse in central Thimphu, twin share

• →Arrival transfer to Thimphu
• →Evening walk at Clock Tower Square
• →Thimphu weekend market if arriving Fri-Sun

Start with a 45-minute conversation at a Thimphu monastery — monks at Dechen Phodrang or the Bhutan Nuns Foundation are usually happy to chat for a small donation (₹500-1,000, ~£5-10); ask your guide to arrange it 24 hours ahead. Then drive east over Dochu La pass (3,100m), where 108 chortens and fluttering prayer flags frame a Himalayan panorama — weather permitting you'll see Jomolhari. Drop into Punakha, drop bags, then drive to Lobesa and walk 25 minutes up through rice fields to Chimi Lhakhang, the 'Divine Madman' fertility temple. The 3-hour drive is winding — bring motion-sickness tablets.

🚌Private car with guide-driver over Dochu La (~£45 shared/day)

🛏Guesthouse or farmstay in Punakha Valley, twin share

• →Monk conversation and tour of Dechen Phodrang monastery
• →Dochu La pass and 108 chortens
• →Hike to Chimi Lhakhang fertility temple

Morning at Punakha Dzong, arguably Bhutan's most beautiful fortress, set at the meeting of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers — entry is roughly 300 ngultrum (~£3). Cross the longest suspension bridge in Bhutan on foot to get there. Midday drive to Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup nunnery above Punakha for valley views and a quiet lunch. In the afternoon take the 45-minute uphill walk through terraced fields and pine to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, a bright four-storey temple on a ridge. Optional: rafting on the Pho Chhu (~£35-45) can be booked in Punakha town.

🚌Private car with guide-driver (~£40 shared)

🛏Guesthouse or farmstay in Punakha Valley, twin share

• →Punakha Dzong and suspension bridge
• →Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup nunnery
• →Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten hike
• →Optional river rafting (~£40)

A scenic 3-4 hour drive south-west over the Lawa La pass (3,420m) brings you into the glacial Phobjikha Valley, the winter home of the black-necked crane. Between late October and February the cranes are present — stop at the Royal Society for Protection of Nature (RSPN) Black-Necked Crane Information Centre (entry ~£2-3) for a short film and spotting scope session. Walk the easy 45-minute Nature Trail loop around the valley floor at dusk. Stay in a village guesthouse or homestay — this valley is genuinely cold at night, so pack warm layers.

🚌Private car with guide-driver over Lawa La (~£50 shared)

🛏Village guesthouse/homestay in Gangtey

• →Lawa La pass photo stop
• →RSPN Black-Necked Crane Information Centre
• →Phobjikha Nature Trail walk

Walk or drive up the hill to Gangtey Goempa, the 17th-century Nyingma monastery that dominates the valley — visitors can sit in the courtyard and, if you're lucky, catch morning prayers (small donation appreciated). Then walk the 2-hour Phobjikha-to-Khewa trail across the valley floor, stopping at an old temple to make a butter-lamp offering. In Khewa village, arrange in advance a home-style cooking demonstration with a farm family — you'll make ema datshi (chilli cheese) and red rice, then eat it together. Your guide can set this up for around £12-18 per person including the meal.

🚌Walking plus short private car transfers (~£20 shared)

🛏Village guesthouse/homestay in Gangtey

• →Gangtey Goempa monastery
• →Phobjikha to Khewa valley walk
• →Ema datshi cooking demonstration and farmhouse dinner

Return to the capital (about 3.5 hours). Climb to Kuensel Phodrang to see the 51m Buddha Dordenma statue, gilded and looking out over the valley — free entry. Late afternoon visit the National Institute for Zorig Chusum, where students practise the 13 traditional Bhutanese arts (small entry fee ~£2). For the Gross National Happiness talk, skip the packaged lecture and instead book a 1-hour conversation with the GNH Centre or a staff member at the National Library (~£10-15 per person, arrange a day ahead) — or simply read up and ask your guide over dinner. Browse the National Library's Tibetan manuscript collection if time allows.

🚌Private car with guide-driver (~£45 shared)

🛏Guesthouse in central Thimphu, twin share

• →Buddha Dordenma viewpoint
• →National Institute for Zorig Chusum (arts and crafts school)
• →Gross National Happiness talk at the GNH Centre
• →National Library book visit

Morning at the National Memorial Chorten, where you'll see residents doing kora (circumambulation) and spinning prayer wheels — free entry, and one of the most atmospheric half-hours in Bhutan. Then head west on the winding road to Haa, an often-missed corner of the country where road traffic is light and high mountains sit close by. In Haa town, walk to Lhakhang Nagpo ('black temple') and Lhakhang Karpo ('white temple'), said to be part of the 108 temples built in one day by King Songtsen Gampo. Stay in a basic guesthouse in Haa — the town has little tourism infrastructure, so cash and an early dinner are wise.

🚌Private car with guide-driver to Haa (~£50 shared)

🛏Simple guesthouse in Haa town, twin share

• →National Memorial Chorten
• →Lhakhang Nagpo black temple
• →Lhakhang Karpo white temple

Cross the Chele La pass (3,988m), one of Bhutan's highest driveable roads — hop out for a short walk along the prayer-flag ridge if the weather holds. From the pass, hike down through thick pine and rhododendron forest on the 1.5-2 hour trail to Kila Goempa nunnery, which clings to a cliff below the road (the trail is steep in places; walking poles help). Continue to Paro and visit Kyichu Lhakhang, one of Bhutan's two oldest temples, with its famous orange trees and ancient statues (entry ~£2). Finish at the Paro archery ground to watch locals shooting bamboo targets — free and genuinely fun.

🚌Private car with guide-driver, plus short hiking (~£50 shared)

🛏Guesthouse in Paro town, twin share

• →Chele La pass (3,988m)
• →Hike to Kila Goempa nunnery
• →Kyichu Lhakhang temple
• →Archery ground visit in Paro

Start early (café at the trailhead opens ~7am) to beat the tour groups on the Taktsang hike. The trail climbs steadily for around 2 hours to the viewpoint, then 45 minutes on stairs to the monastery itself, which clings to a granite cliff 900m above the valley floor. Entry to the monastery ~£10 (often cash only). Rent walking poles at the base for ~£2. After the descent, drive down to Rinpung Dzong, the 17th-century fortress-monastery that dominates Paro town, and walk the old wooden bridge below it. Pick up luggage and repack — make sure you still have some ngultrum for tonight.

🚌Private car with guide-driver (~£35 shared); hiking on foot

🛏Guesthouse in Paro town, twin share

• →Sunrise hike to Tiger's Nest monastery
• →Taktsang Lhakhang entry
• →Rinpung Dzong fortress and traditional cantilever bridge

Transfer to Paro airport for your onward flight — arrange a taxi the evening before if your guide-driver has already finished contract (~£10). If time allows before your flight, drop into VAST (Voluntary Artists' Studio Thimphu/Paro), the social-enterprise studio that G Adventures supports, for a short thangka or woodblock printing class (~£20-30) and a good tea. Depart and settle up on leftover ngultrum at the airport — Bhutanese currency is worthless outside the country.

🚌Airport taxi (~£10)

🛏None (departure day)

• →Optional VAST art and craft workshop
• →Souvenir shopping in Paro town