Sail Croatia & Explore Montenegro — Self-Launched

Fly into Split (SPU) and check into a hostel in the old town or Bačvice area. Spend the afternoon walking Diocletian's Palace — the Roman cellars, the Peristyle and the Riva waterfront promenade are all free to wander. Pop into the Jadrolinija or Krilo ticket office on the Riva (or book online) to lock in your island catamaran tickets for the next few days — May and September sell out fastest. Evening: gregada fish stew or a cheap Ćevapi dinner in the Konoba-lined backstreets.

🚌Airport bus No. 37 or Pleso Prijevoz shuttle to town, ~£4

🛏Hostel in Split old town/Bačvice (dorm £18–25, private double £45–65)

• →Walk Diocletian's Palace and the Riva
• →Book Jadrolinija/Krilo catamaran tickets
• →Swim at Bačvice beach

Take the morning catamaran from Split to Hvar Town (~1 hr, £16–22 with Krilo). Drop bags at your hostel and hike the 20 minutes up to the Spanish Fortress for the classic view over the harbour — entry is about £8. Afternoon swim at Pokonji Dol or take a water taxi (£8 return) to the Pakleni Islands for quieter coves. If you want the 'anchored in Milna bay' feeling from the original trip, the western bay of Milna is a 25-minute walk or short taxi-boat from town. Evening drinks on the Hvar Town waterfront (pricey — buy supermarket wine for the balcony instead).

🚌Krilo/Jadrolinija catamaran Split→Hvar ~£18; local bus/water taxi

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in Hvar Town (dorm £25–35, private £55–80)

• →Spanish Fortress hike
• →Pakleni Islands water taxi and swim
• →Hvar Town evening stroll

Take the catamaran or the Jadrolinija car ferry Hvar→Korčula via Vela Luka or direct (~1.5–2.5 hrs, £15–20). Korčula's Old Town is a perfect little medieval grid — climb the Revelin Tower and St Mark's Cathedral bell tower for the rooftop views, and wander the house said to be Marco Polo's birthplace. Late afternoon: swim off the town beaches or rent a kayak (£10/hr) to paddle the channel. Optional half-day wine tasting in Lumbarda for the local Grk grape.

🚌Catamaran/ferry Hvar→Korčula ~£18

🛏Guesthouse or hostel in Korčula Old Town (dorm £22–30, private £50–70)

• →Korčula Old Town walls and cathedral tower
• →Kayak or swim off town beaches
• →Optional Lumbarda wine tasting

Ferry from Korčula to Sobra on Mljet (~45 min–1 hr, £8–12), then local bus to Pomena at the national park gate. Entry to Mljet National Park is about £20 in high season and includes the shuttle boat across to St Mary's Island monastery. Rent a bike (£10) or hike the 4 km loop around the two salt lakes, swim in the Veliko Jezero, then ferry back to Sobra and take the evening catamaran to Dubrovnik. If you'd rather split it, stay a night on Mljet in a village guesthouse — it's the quietest, most beautiful stop of the trip.

🚌Ferry Korčula→Sobra ~£10; park shuttle boat; catamaran Sobra→Dubrovnik ~£12

🛏Hostel in Dubrovnik Old Town/Gruž (dorm £25–35) — or Mljet guesthouse (£40–55)

• →Mljet National Park entry and salt lakes loop
• →St Mary's Island monastery boat
• →Bike rental around Veliko Jezero

Buy the Dubrovnik Pass (about £30 — includes the city walls walk, several museums and bus travel) and walk the full 2 km circuit of the medieval walls early before the heat and the cruise crowds. Then explore the Stradun, the Rector's Palace, the Franciscan Monastery pharmacy and the Buža cliff bar for a swim-and-a-drink stop. Late afternoon: take the cable car up Srđ (£21 return) for sunset, or hike up free via the switchback path. Dinner: cheap and excellent seafood at a konoba in Gruž rather than the Stradun.

🚌Local bus with Dubrovnik Pass; cable car £21 return optional

🛏Hostel in Dubrovnik (dorm £25–35)

• →Dubrovnik city walls walk
• →Old Town museums with Dubrovnik Pass
• →Buža cliff bar swim; Srđ cable car sunset

Use this day for a DIY island hop on the local Jadrolinija ferry to the Elaphiti Islands — Koločep, Lopud and Šipan — or join a small-group boat trip via GetYourGuide (£30–45) that covers Šunj beach on Lopud and snorkel stops. Alternatively, take bus No. 10 to Cavtat (30 min, £2) and walk the pine-shaded coastal path to the Konavle cliffs. Budget-wise this is a cheaper, more local alternative to the original's island excursions.

🚌Jadrolinija ferry to Elaphiti ~£10 return, or local bus to Cavtat £2

🛏Hostel in Dubrovnik (dorm £25–35)

• →Elaphiti Islands ferry hop
• →Šunj beach on Lopud
• →Cavtat and Konavle coastal walk

Take the local bus Dubrovnik→Kotor via the border (~2.5–3 hrs, £12–18 on a Croatian/Montenegrin carrier — book at the Libertas kiosk or online). The route hugs the Bay of Kotor at the end for a spectacular arrival. Check into a hostel inside the walled Old Town. Late afternoon: climb the 1,350 steps up Kotor's city walls to the San Giovanni fortress (£8 entry in season, or free early morning) for sunset over the fjord. Evening: cheap Montenegrin dinner of njeguški pršut and grilled fish, then a wander round the squares.

🚌Local bus Dubrovnik→Kotor ~£15 (border crossing included)

🛏Hostel inside Kotor Old Town (dorm £15–22, private £40–55)

• →Kotor Old Town orientation walk (free)
• →San Giovanni fortress walls climb
• →Old Town squares and cathedral

Join a small boat tour from Kotor's port to Our Lady of the Rocks and the island of Sveti Đorđe, landing at Perast (~£15–20 for a 2–3 hr shared boat, or £25–35 via Klook for a longer half-day with swim stop). Wander Perast's baroque waterfront, then either take the local bus back to Kotor (£1) or hire a sea kayak (£12/2 hrs) to paddle the bay. Optional: the Maritime Museum (£5) and Kotor's cats museum for something quirky.

🚌Shared boat trip ~£18; local bus Perast→Kotor £1

🛏Hostel in Kotor Old Town (dorm £15–22)

• →Our Lady of the Rocks monastery boat
• →Perast old town walk
• →Optional sea kayaking (£12)

Take an early local bus to Budva (30 min, £2) for a quick lap of its walled Old Town and the citadel, then head inland. The cleanest DIY route to Ostrog is a bus to Nikšić or Danilovgrad and a short taxi up to the monastery (shared taxi ~£8–12), or join a day tour from Kotor/Budva via GetYourGuide (£30–40) that then drops you at the Durmitor road. Ostrog is carved into a sheer cliff face — dress modestly, cover shoulders and knees. From Nikšić, take the afternoon bus to Žabljak (~2 hrs, £6) and check into a mountain guesthouse or the local hostel.

🚌Bus Kotor→Budva £2; Budva/Nikšić→Ostrog shared taxi £10; bus Nikšić→Žabljak £6

🛏Mountain hostel or guesthouse in Žabljak (dorm £14–20, private £35–50)

• →Budva Old Town and citadel
• →Ostrog Monastery visit
• →Evening in Žabljak mountain village

Walk 20 minutes from town to Crno Jezero (Black Lake) and do the 4 km circular trail — park entry is about £3. In the afternoon, either hire a bike (£10) for the Durmitor ring road, or arrange a rafting trip on the Tara Canyon with a local operator (half-day ~£35–45, book direct in town or via Klook) — Europe's deepest gorge and the highlight of the region. If you fancy the summit, a guide to Bobotov Kuk (2,523 m) can be arranged for £50–70.

🚌On foot; optional bike hire £10 or rafting transfer included

🛏Mountain hostel or guesthouse in Žabljak (dorm £14–20)

• →Black Lake circular walk
• →Tara Canyon rafting (optional £40)
• →Durmitor ring-road cycling

Take the morning bus or shared taxi down to Kolašin (1.5 hrs, ~£5), drop your bag, then head into Biogradska Gora National Park (£3 entry) — one of Europe's last three virgin rainforests. Walk the easy 3.5 km loop around Biogradsko Jezero, then rent a kayak or rowboat on the lake (£6–8) and take the trail up towards the viewpoint. In the evening return to Kolašin, a small mountain town, for a hearty dinner of kačamak (cornmeal and cheese) at a local konoba.

🚌Bus/shared taxi Žabljak→Kolašin £5; local transport to park £3

🛏Guesthouse or hostel in Kolašin (dorm £15–20, private £35–45)

• →Biogradska Gora rainforest lake loop
• →Kayak/rowboat hire on the lake
• →Kačamak dinner in Kolašin

Book a local 4x4 off-road half-day directly in Kolašin (ask your guesthouse — expect £45–70 per person for 3–4 hours, cheaper if you fill the vehicle with other travellers; or book a jeep safari via Klook). Routes typically climb to the Sinjajevina plateau or the Bjelasica ridges with shepherd huts and views across half of Montenegro. After lunch, take the afternoon bus or train to Podgorica (1.5 hrs, £5). Evening: walk the old town around the Ribnica river and Starodoganjska street, then dinner at a local grill.

🚌Local 4x4 tour £55; bus/train Kolašin→Podgorica £5

🛏Hostel or budget hotel in Podgorica (dorm £13–18, private £35–45)

• →4x4 off-road backcountry tour
• →Podgorica old town walk
• →Ribnica river and bridges

Morning bus to Virpazar on Lake Skadar (40 min, £3) — the biggest lake in the Balkans. Take a 2-hour shared boat through the lily pads and birdlife (£12–15, book at the dock) and stop for lunch at a lakeside fish restaurant. Then continue by bus or shared taxi to Shkodër (1.5–2 hrs, £4–6). Check in and, if you have energy, walk up to Rozafa Castle (£3) for sunset over the confluence of three rivers.

🚌Bus Podgorica→Virpazar £3; boat £13; bus to Shkodër £5

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in Shkodër (dorm £10–15, private £25–35)

• →Lake Skadar boat trip
• →Virpazar lakeside lunch
• →Rozafa Castle sunset

Take the famous Theth mountain road — a shared 4x4/furgon from Shkodër leaves early morning (~£12–15 each way, 2.5 hrs) and grinds up the Rozafa valley past the Komani gorge scenery. From Theth village, walk the easy 40-minute trail to the Blue Eye spring and the Grunas waterfall, and visit the stone Lock-In Tower. Head back late afternoon. If the road is closed or you'd rather keep it easy, spend the day cycling around Shkodër, visiting the Marubi photo museum and the Venice Art Mask Factory (entry £3).

🚌Shared 4x4 furgon Shkodër⇄Theth ~£26 return

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in Shkodër (dorm £10–15)

• →Theth valley trail and Blue Eye spring
• →Grunas waterfall
• →Gjakmarrja Lock-In Tower

Take the morning bus to Tirana (2 hrs, £3) or stop off at Krujë on a connecting furgon from Fushë-Krujë. Krujë's old bazaar and the Skanderbeg Museum in the castle are worth the detour (entry £3), with sweeping views down to the coast. Arrive Tirana by mid-afternoon — walk through Skanderbeg Square, grab a last byrek and an Albanian coffee, and head to the airport (bus from the centre £1, or taxi £13). If you have a late flight, add Mother Teresa Square and the Bunk'Art 2 museum (£5).

🚌Bus Shkodër→Tirana £3; optional Krujë detour £2; airport bus £1

🛏None — departure day (add a hostel night in Tirana if needed, £12–18 dorm)

• →Krujë bazaar and Skanderbeg Museum
• →Skanderbeg Square and Tirana old town
• →Bunk'Art 2 (optional)