Self-Launched Ecuador: Amazon, Otavalo & the Avenue of the Volcanoes

Land at Mariscal Sucre Airport (UIO) and take an official airport taxi to the Centro Histórico or La Mariscal (~£8-10, 45-60 mins). Quito sits at 2,850m, so take it easy: a gentle wander around Plaza Grande, the Basílica and Calle La Ronda for a cheap set lunch (almuerzo ~£3-4). If you want a city orientation, book a freewalking tour of the old town (tip-based) or a GetYourGuide Quito walking tour (£10-15). Pick up a local SIM (Claro/Movistar, ~£5-8 for data) and confirm your bus times for tomorrow. Evening: meet other travellers at your hostel bar and drink coca tea.

🚌Airport taxi ~£8-10; airport bus (Aeroservicios) ~£2

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in Centro Histórico or La Mariscal (dorm £8-12 / private £20-28)

• →Old town self-guided walk
• →Free walking tour (tip-based)
• →SIM card purchase

Take a bus from Quito's Terminal Carcelén to Otavalo (~2 hrs, £2-3) or a direct shared shuttle (~£6). Drop bags and head to the Plaza de Ponchos handicrafts market — one of South America's best, and free to browse. For a weaving lesson, walk 15 mins to the Peguche weaving community and arrange a demo directly with a family workshop (expect £5-10 tip/entry), or do it as part of a half-day Otavalo community tour booked via GetYourGuide (£25-35). Lunch at a local comedor (£3-4). Optional evening: Condor Park or Laguna San Pablo viewpoint (£2 entry).

🚌Public bus Quito–Otavalo ~£2.50 (2 hrs)

🛏Otavalo hostel or family guesthouse (dorm £9-12 / private £20-25)

• →Otavalo handicrafts market
• →Peguche weaving demonstration
• →Laguna San Pablo viewpoint

Return bus to Quito Carcelén (~£2.50), then take a bus or shared taxi east toward Baeza/Papallacta (~2 hrs, £3-4) — or, more comfortably, book a shared shuttle from Otavalo via Quito (~£15). Check into a guesthouse near the Termas de Papallacta and spend the afternoon in the hot springs complex (entrance ~£7-8; public pools are cheaper than the resort's). Bring a towel and cash. There are cheaper basic thermal pools in the village too (~£3). Evening is cold and high (3,250m) — eat trout at a local restaurant (£5-7) and sleep early.

🚌Bus Otavalo–Quito ~£2.50; bus Quito–Papallacta ~£3.50

🛏Papallacta guesthouse/cabaña (£15-22 private) or splurge on Termas de Papallacta hotel if budget allows

• →Papallacta hot springs
• →Optional spa treatment (£15-25)

Early bus down the spectacular descent to Tena (~3 hrs, £4-5). From Tena take a shared taxi or local pickup to Misahuallí or Puerto Napo (~£2), where your jungle lodge boat pickup runs. Book a 2-night Amazon lodge package directly by email (Itamandi EcoLodge or a comparable Napo river lodge, ~£95-120 pp including all meals, guide, boat transfers and activities — this is the single biggest cost saver vs the tour). Afternoon: guided walk in a protected secondary forest reserve with a local naturalist and a night walk to spot frogs, insects and caiman.

🚌Bus Papallacta–Tena ~£4.50; shared taxi to river port ~£2; lodge boat

🛏Amazon eco-lodge, basic cabin with mosquito net (included in lodge package)

• →Rainforest nature walk with local guide
• →Amazon night walk

Pre-dawn departure by canoe/boat to a parrot and macaw clay lick (best 6-7am) — usually included in your lodge package. Mid-morning visit AmaZOOnico animal rescue centre near Ahuano (entry ~£5; reachable by public river boat if you're freelancing, ~£2 each way). Lunch with a local Kichwa family in the community (arrange through your lodge, ~£5-8). Afternoon swim in the Arajuno or Napo river, or tubing (~£5). This is the day that most closely mirrors the group tour — and a good local lodge guide does the same job as the tour CEO.

🚌Boat and canoe transfers (included in package)

🛏Amazon eco-lodge cabin (included in lodge package)

• →Parrot clay lick excursion
• →AmaZOOnico animal rescue centre
• →Kichwa home lunch

Boat back to the road, then a bus from Tena to Baños via Puyo (~3.5-4 hrs with a change, £5-6). Check in, then visit the Jardín Botánico Las Orquídeas just outside town (entry ~£3.50, taxi or local bus £1-2). Late afternoon wander Baños' centre and the Mirador de la Virgen for Tungurahua volcano views (free). If the volcano is clear, it's one of Ecuador's best cheap thrills. Eat at the market comedores (£3-4).

🚌Bus Tena–Puyo–Baños ~£5.50

🛏Baños hostel or budget hotel (£10-14 dorm / £22-28 private)

• →Orchid botanical garden
• →Tungurahua viewpoint
• →Town wander

DIY the Ruta de las Cascadas: rent a mountain bike (~£7-9/day) and ride downhill to the Pailón del Diablo waterfall (entry ~£2) and the tarabita cable car (~£2). Alternatively: whitewater rafting on the Pastaza (~£30-35 booked locally or via GetYourGuide), canyoning (~£25), or horseback riding (~£20). Afternoon soak at the Termas de la Virgen hot springs (~£3.50). Book your rafting the day before in town — walk-up prices are often cheaper than online. Free hiking on the hillside trails above town if you want a no-cost day.

🚌Bike hire ~£8; local buses £0.50-1

🛏Baños hostel or budget hotel

• →Ruta de las Cascadas by bike
• →Pailón del Diablo waterfall
• →Whitewater rafting (optional)
• →Termas de la Virgen hot springs

Two options: (a) bus back to Quito (~3.5 hrs, £4) and join a GetYourGuide day tour to Cotopaxi (£30-40 including transport and park entry) — easiest; or (b) take a bus to Machachi/Latacunga and arrange a shared 4x4 into Cotopaxi (~£45-60 total, more hassle). Whichever you choose, walk up to the José Rivas refuge at 4,800m (slowly — altitude) and if you're acclimatised, hike to the glacier edge with a guide. Watch for wild horses and Andean foxes on the páramo. Return to Quito in the evening and sleep in La Mariscal.

🚌Bus Baños–Quito ~£4; Cotopaxi day tour transport included

🛏Quito hostel or budget hotel (£10-14 dorm / £22-28 private)

• →Cotopaxi National Park
• →José Rivas refuge walk
• →Páramo wildlife spotting

If your flight is later in the day, take the Metrobús to La Ofelia then a bus to Mitad del Mundo or the more interesting Intiñán solar museum (~£2-3 each way, entry ~£4.50) to straddle the equator. Otherwise, a slow breakfast in La Floresta and a last browse of the Mercado Central. Airport taxi ~£8-10. If you skipped the city tour on day 1, a GetYourGuide Quito city + equator half-day tour is ~£25-30.

🚌Public bus to equator line ~£2.50; airport taxi ~£9

🛏—

• →Mitad del Mundo / Intiñán equator museum
• →Mercado Central