Everest Base Camp Trek — Self-Launched

Land at Tribhuvan International Airport and take a pre-paid airport taxi (~NPR 700–1,000 / £5–7) to a hostel or budget guesthouse in Thamel. Spend the afternoon sorting logistics: buy or rent down jacket, sleeping bag, trekking poles and microspikes from Thamel gear shops (rental ~£2–3/day for a down jacket + sleeping bag set), pick up a TIMS card and Sagarmatha National Park permit from the Nepal Tourism Board office, and buy a Nepali SIM/eSIM (Ncell or NTC, ~£3–5). Confirm your Kathmandu–Lukla flight (booked in advance online or via a Thamel agent, ~£140–180 return, weather-dependent). Early dinner and early night — flights leave at dawn.

🚌Airport taxi ~£5–7; walking around Thamel

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in Thamel (~£8–12 for a dorm/private basic room)

• →Thamel gear rental and shopping
• →Nepal Tourism Board office for park permit and TIMS card
• →Nepali SIM card purchase

Take the 35-minute morning flight from Kathmandu (or Ramechhap in peak season) to Tenzing-Hillary Airport, Lukla — book a dawn departure and have a buffer day in hand. From Lukla, walk north through Cheplung village, cross the Dudh Koshi on suspension bridges and reach Phakding in about 3–4 hours. This is a deliberately short first day to ease into altitude. Teahouses are simple but comfortable with twin rooms and shared bathrooms; dal bhat and noodle soup are the staple dinners.

🚌Domestic flight Kathmandu–Lukla ~£70–90 one way; 3–4 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Phakding (~£5–8 per person, twin room)

• →Scenic mountain flight into Lukla
• →Trek through Cheplung village
• →Suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi

A big day: 6–7 hours up the Benkar valley, crossing and re-crossing the Dudh Koshi on high suspension bridges, past Monjo where you show your Sagarmatha National Park permit at the checkpoint. The final hour is the notorious Namche hill — steady pace, small steps. Arrive in Namche Bazaar (3,440 m), the Sherpa capital, with its bakeries, gear shops and Wi-Fi cafés. Register at the Sagarmatha National Park visitor centre and the local police checkpost.

🚌6–7 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar (~£7–10 per person)

• →Benkar valley trek
• →Sagarmatha National Park entry checkpoint
• →Namche Bazaar exploration

Mandatory rest day to acclimatise. Either hike up to the Sagarmatha National Park HQ viewpoint for sunrise views of Everest, or do the classic day hike to Khumjung village (3,790 m) to see the Hillary School and the monastery that reputedly holds a yeti scalp. Climb high, sleep low. Spend the afternoon in a Namche bakery with a coffee and a slice of cake (~£3).

🚌No transport — day hikes on foot

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar (~£7–10 per person)

• →Sunrise hike to Sagarmatha National Park viewpoint
• →Day hike to Khumjung village
• →Hillary School and Khumjung monastery

A gorgeous 5-hour traverse high above the Dudh Koshi valley with Everest and Ama Dablam in view almost the whole way. Descend to Phunki Tenga for lunch, then climb steeply through pine and rhododendron forest to Tengboche (3,860 m), home to the largest monastery in Khumbu. Arrive by mid-afternoon to sit in on the monks' puja ceremony (usually around 3–4 pm, small donation appreciated).

🚌5 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Tengboche (~£7–10 per person)

• →Valley traverse with Everest and Ama Dablam views
• →Tengboche Monastery visit and afternoon puja

Around 5 hours through forest and across the Imja River, passing the village of Pangboche and its old monastery, then climbing onto the open, treeless moraine to Dingboche (4,410 m). Temperature drops noticeably here — layer up. Settle into a teahouse with a stove-heated dining room and eat a big, carb-heavy dinner.

🚌5 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Dingboche (~£8–12 per person)

• →Pangboche Monastery visit
• →Imja River crossing
• →Trek into the high alpine zone

A crucial acclimatisation day at 4,400 m. Hike up Nangkartshang Hill (5,083 m) for a 4-hour round trip and huge views of Makalu, Lhotse and Ama Dablam, then return to sleep low in Dingboche. If you feel good, an alternative is a flat walk toward Chhukung. Watch for headache and breathlessness and descend if symptoms worsen — this is also the day to check your travel insurance covers helicopter evacuation to these altitudes.

🚌4 hrs walking (acclimatisation hike)

🛏Teahouse in Dingboche (~£8–12 per person)

• →Nangkartshang Hill hike (5,083 m)
• →Optional walk toward Chhukung

About 5 hours: a gradual climb past Dughla, then a short steep pull up to the Chupki Lhara ridge with its memorial cairns to climbers lost on Everest. Cross the Khumbu Glacier moraine and continue to Lobuche (4,940 m). Sleep early — the next day is the big one.

🚌5 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Lobuche (~£8–12 per person)

• →Chupki Lhara memorial ridge
• →Khumbu Glacier moraine crossing
• →Views of Nuptse and Pumori

Leave early for Gorak Shep (5,164 m), drop bags at the teahouse, then walk 2–3 hours along the glacier to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m). In spring you'll see the tent city of expeditions; in autumn it's a stark, beautiful moraine. Take photos at the prayer-flag-marked sign, then return to Gorak Shep to sleep. Move slowly, drink constantly.

🚌7–8 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Gorak Shep (~£10–14 per person, the priciest on the trail)

• →Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
• →Khumbu Icefall viewpoints
• →Photo stop at the EBC sign

Pre-dawn start (about 4 am) for the 2-hour climb to Kala Patthar (5,545 m), the classic Everest viewpoint — sunrise light on the summit is the highlight of the trek. Return to Gorak Shep for breakfast, then descend 4–5 hours to Pheriche (4,270 m). Altitude drops fast and you'll sleep much better.

🚌8 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Pheriche (~£7–10 per person)

• →Kala Patthar sunrise hike
• →Descent to Pheriche

A long but satisfying 7-hour descent retracing your steps via Tengboche and Phunki Tenga, with Ama Dablam behind you. If you didn't make EBC on Day 9 or want a second go, some trekkers instead branch to Everest Base Camp from here — but the standard route is straight down. Reward yourself with a bakery stop and a hot shower in Namche.

🚌7 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar (~£7–10 per person)

• →Descent through Tengboche
• →Views of Ama Dablam

The final long walking day, about 7–8 hours back down past Monjo and Phakding to Lukla. Reconfirm your flight with the airline or agent the moment you arrive (weather cancels a lot of Lukla departures), and keep a buffer day in Kathmandu for delays. Celebrate with a beer in a Lukla lodge.

🚌7–8 hrs walking

🛏Lodge in Lukla (~£7–10 per person)

• →Final descent to Lukla
• →Flight reconfirmation

Morning flight back to Kathmandu (~£70–90). Use the rest of the day — or a built-in buffer day if your flight is delayed — for souvenir shopping in Thamel or a wander around Boudhanath Stupa or Durbar Square (entry ~£3–5). A celebratory momo dinner costs about £3–5.

🚌Domestic flight Lukla–Kathmandu ~£70–90; taxi from airport ~£5–7

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in Thamel (~£8–12)

• →Boudhanath Stupa or Kathmandu Durbar Square
• →Souvenir shopping in Thamel
• →Celebratory momo dinner