Gokyo – Everest Base Camp – Cho La Pass: Self-Launched Trek

Land at Tribhuvan International (KTM) on an early international arrival, or overnight in Kathmandu first. Book a Lukla flight directly with Tara Air, Sita Air or Summit Air (counter at Kathmandu domestic terminal, ~US$190–220 return / £150–175). Flights leave ~06:00–07:00; expect weather delays in shoulder season and keep a buffer day. On arrival at Lukla, walk 2.5–3 hours downhill along the Dudh Koshi River to Phakding (2,610 m). Buy your Khumbu Pasanglhamu Rural Municipality permit (NPR 2,000 / ~£12) and your Everest region entry fee at the Lukla/municipality counter, and register your TIMS card if you have one.

🚌Lukla flight from Kathmandu ~£75–90 one-way; 3 hrs walking

🛏Standard teahouse in Phakding (twin room, shared bathroom) ~£8–12

• →Lukla flight and landing on the world's most dramatic airstrip
• →Dudh Koshi River and Hillary suspension bridges
• →Buy Everest region permits in Lukla

A long, hot day: 8–9 hours through Monjo (entering Sagarmatha National Park, ~£25 permit), across the high Larja Dobhan bridge, then the relentless switchbacks up to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m). Fill water bottles at the last free springs before Monjo — above that, boiled/filtered water costs £1–3 per litre. Take it slowly and keep an eye on your pace for altitude.

🚌8–9 hrs walking, no road transport

🛏Teahouse in Namche (twin, shared bath) ~£10–15

• →Sagarmatha National Park entry
• →Larja Dobhan suspension bridge
• →First views of Thamserku and Kongde

Rest day at 3,440 m. Walk 2 hours up to the Everest View Hotel (3,880 m) for your first Everest/Lhotse/Ama Dablam panorama, then continue to Khumjung village to see the monastery's famous 'yeti scalp' and the Hillary school. Optional extension to Khunde. Back in Namche, browse the Saturday market, gear shops and bakeries. Visit the Sagarmatha National Park museum and visitor centre (small entry fee).

🚌4–7 hrs walking, no transport needed

🛏Second night, Namche teahouse

• →Everest View Hotel sunrise panorama
• →Khumjung Monastery yeti scalp
• →Sagarmatha National Park museum

5–6 hours along a gorgeous high traverse with Ama Dablam in front of you the entire way, dropping to Phunki Tenga for lunch before the steep climb up to Tengboche (3,860 m). Time your arrival for the late-afternoon puja ceremony at Tengboche Monastery, the largest in Khumbu — free to enter, donations welcome.

🚌5–6 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse near Tengboche Monastery (shared bath) ~£10–14

• →Ama Dablam and Lhotse views
• →Tengboche Monastery afternoon puja
• →Crossing the tree line

A short 2–3 hour day to keep acclimatisation sensible. Descend through rhododendron forest to Deboche, then walk to Pangboche (3,930 m). Visit the village's old monastery (said to hold a yeti hand relic) and take an optional 1-hour side trip to the Ama Dablam base camp viewpoint trail. Short days like this are exactly what the guided version builds in — don't be tempted to push on.

🚌2–3 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Pangboche ~£8–12

• →Deboche forest walk
• →Pangboche old monastery
• →Optional Ama Dablam viewpoint trail

Walk 2 hours to Dingboche (4,410 m) in the morning, then do the classic acclimatisation hike up Nangkartshang Peak (5,083 m) — 3–4 hours up and down from Dingboche. If the summit feels hard, stop at the 4,700 m prayer-flag ridge; the views of Makalu and Ama Dablam are arguably better from there anyway. Sleep lower than you climbed. Dingboche has decent bakeries.

🚌2 hrs to Dingboche + 3–4 hrs acclimatisation hike

🛏Teahouse in Dingboche ~£10–14

• →Nangkartshang Peak (5,083 m)
• →Makalu and Ama Dablam panorama
• →Dingboche bakery stop

4–5 hours: up over the Thukla ridge, past the poignant Everest memorial cairns for lost climbers, then a slow grind to Lobuche (4,940 m). Sunset on Nuptse from the lodge window is one of the trip's quiet highlights. There's a short glacier viewpoint 10 minutes from the guesthouses. Sleep early — tomorrow is a big one.

🚌4–5 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Lobuche ~£10–15

• →Thukla Pass and Everest memorial site
• →Pheriche valley views
• →Sunset on Nuptse and Lobuche glacier viewpoint

Early start, walk 3 hours to Gorakshep (5,164 m), drop bags, then 2–3 hours each way along the Khumbu Glacier moraine to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m). Fixed ropes, prayer flags and the Khumbu Icefall fill the view; in spring the climbers' tents are still up. Return to Gorakshep for the night. Book your Gorakshep room on arrival if coming in peak season — lodges fill by early afternoon.

🚌6–7 hrs walking total

🛏Teahouse in Gorakshep (basic, shared bath) ~£12–18

• →Everest Base Camp (5,364 m)
• →Khumbu Icefall and glacier views
• →Gorakshep viewpoint

Up at 04:00 for the 2–2.5 hour climb to Kala Patthar (5,545 m) for sunrise on Everest — the single best Everest view on the trek. Descend an hour to Gorakshep for breakfast, then traverse 5 hours across to Dzongla (4,830 m). Dzongla is tiny and beds are limited; arrive by mid-afternoon or you may end up in a dining-hall mattress space.

🚌8–9 hrs walking

🛏Small teahouse in Dzongla ~£10–15

• →Kala Patthar sunrise (5,545 m)
• →Everest, Pumori and Khumbu Valley panorama
• →Traverse to Dzongla

The crux day: 6–10 hours, up to the Cho La (5,420 m) in 3–4 hours over glacial scree, sometimes with snow and fixed ropes. Start at 05:00 — the far side gets windy and clouded by afternoon. Views to Makalu from the top are superb. Descend steeply to Thagnak (4,700 m). If there's fresh snow, consider waiting a day or skipping via the low route to Pheriche; ask your lodge owner about conditions the evening before.

🚌6–10 hrs walking; no alternative transport

🛏Teahouse in Thagnak ~£10–14

• →Cho La Pass (5,420 m)
• →Mt. Makalu views
• →White Mountain valley descent

A short 2–3 hour day walking across the Ngozumpa Glacier moraine into the Gokyo valley, arriving at Gokyo (4,790 m) in time for lunch. Afternoon options: wander the 3rd lake shore, walk an hour to the 4th lake, or rest and save energy for tomorrow's Gokyo Ri sunrise. Lodges here are a bit more comfortable — take a hot shower while you can.

🚌2–3 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Gokyo (some with attached bath) ~£12–18

• →Ngozumpa Glacier crossing
• →Gokyo Lakes and 3rd lake walk
• →Optional side trip to the 4th lake

Climb Gokyo Ri (5,357 m) in 2–2.5 hours for sunrise over Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu — many trekkers rate it the best viewpoint of the whole route. Back down for breakfast at Gokyo, then a 4-hour descent through rhododendron forest to Dole (4,110 m). Optional side visit to Machhermo village for mountain views on the way down.

🚌7–8 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Dole ~£8–12

• →Gokyo Ri sunrise (5,357 m)
• →Cho Oyu, Everest and Makalu panorama
• →Rhododendron forest descent

5–6 hours down the Gokyo valley, rejoining the main EBC trail at Kyangjuma, then the easy contour into Namche. Celebrate with a drink at the world's highest Irish pub (Namche's Irish Pub / Starbucks-style bakeries) and a proper hot shower. Your breathing will feel miraculously easy at 3,440 m.

🚌5–6 hrs walking

🛏Namche teahouse ~£10–15

• →Gokyo valley descent
• →Kyangjuma viewpoint
• →World's highest Irish pub in Namche

The long 8–9 hour final walk, mostly downhill but with the painful climb back up to the Larja Dobhan bridge. Leave by 07:00 to arrive in Lukla before dark. Confirm your Lukla–Kathmandu flight for tomorrow morning with the airline or your lodge owner, and keep your receipts.

🚌8–9 hrs walking

🛏Lukla guesthouse ~£10–15

• →Final descent to Lukla
• →Sagarmatha National Park exit
• →Lukla evening

Morning Lukla–Kathmandu flight (~35 min). If weather cancels it, take a shared jeep to Surke/Tham Danda and then a public bus or jeep to Jiri/Kathmandu (a long but real alternative, roughly £15–25). Back in Kathmandu, transfer to your own guesthouse in Thamel and treat yourself to a dal bhat or a steak.

🚌Lukla flight ~£75–90 one-way; plane or jeep+bus alternative

🛏Kathmandu guesthouse in Thamel ~£12–20

• →Lukla–Kathmandu flight
• →Thamel evening in Kathmandu