Self-Launched: Walking the Mountains & Villages of Evia, Greece

Make your own way from Athens city centre or airport to Rafina port. From central Athens, take the X96 express bus to Athens Airport (if needed), or the KTEL Attiki bus from Pedion Areos park to Rafina (~1 hour, ~€3). From Rafina port, take the Goutos Lines ferry to Marmari on Evia (~1 hour, ~€10). From Marmari, a local taxi or infrequent bus covers the 20-minute journey to Karystos (~€10–15 by taxi, shared). Check in to your guesthouse in Karystos and spend the evening exploring the waterfront, grabbing dinner at one of the ouzo-meze tavernas along the harbour.

🚌KTEL bus Athens → Rafina (~€3), Goutos Lines ferry Rafina → Marmari (~€10), taxi Marmari → Karystos (~€10–15)

🛏Karystos guesthouse or budget hotel (e.g. Hotel Karystion or local guesthouses on Booking.com, ~£35–45/night)

• →Arrive and settle into Karystos — stroll the Venetian waterfront and Bourtzi castle
• →Browse the evening tavernas along the harbour for ouzo and mezedes
• →Pick up a local walking map from the tourist office or hotel

Walk directly from Karystos town up through the terraced hillside to the scattered Gourna villages high above the bay. The stone paths are well-worn and clearly visible — follow the route past ancient springs and streams to the Roman aqueduct dating to 160 BCE. Continue uphill to Castello Rosso, the impressive Fourth Crusade fortress with panoramic views of the Aegean — a perfect picnic spot. Download the route on Maps.me or Wikiloc beforehand (search 'Karystos to Castello Rosso'). Descend through the olive-grove valley of Mili back to the coast. Total: ~10km. Packed lunch recommended from a bakery in Karystos.

🚌Walk from Karystos hotel (no transport needed)

🛏Hotel Karystion or equivalent guesthouse, Karystos (~£35–45/night)

• →Walk ancient stone paths up to the Gourna villages above Karystos Bay
• →Visit the Roman aqueduct from 160 BCE
• →Explore Castello Rosso — Fourth Crusade fortress with sea views
• →Descend through the Mili valley of citrus, olive and cypress trees
• →Picnic lunch at the fortress with Aegean views

Take the local KTEL bus from Karystos towards the southeastern tip of the island, heading to Platanistos (check current KTEL Evia timetables locally — departures are limited; a taxi may be needed, ~€20–25 one-way). Walk the riverside path through the lush ravine, passing through the ancient Albanian-descent villages of Panohori and Mourtia. Continue down to Marmara Beach, one of the Aegean's finest and least-known stretches of sand. Swim, relax, then walk or take a local taxi the ~20 minutes back to Karystos.

🚌KTEL bus or taxi Karystos → Platanistos (~€20–25 taxi), walk through valley, taxi/walk back to Karystos

🛏Hotel Karystion or equivalent guesthouse, Karystos (~£35–45/night)

• →Hike the Platanistos ravine along the riverside path (~10km)
• →Pass through Albanian-descent villages of Panohori and Mourtia
• →Swim and relax at beautiful Marmara Beach
• →Return to Karystos on foot or by local taxi

Hire a taxi from Karystos for the 45-minute drive north along the scenic Eagle Route mountain road to the Styra area (~€30–40 for the taxi). From here, summit Mount Kliosi following visible trails to the ancient acropolis ruins, the eerie ancient gate, Cave of St Nicolas, and the mist-shrouded Castro Armeno. Descend through wild strawberry bushes and past Roman marble quarry remains to the Styra Valley villages — a peaceful lunch stop. Take the local KTEL bus back to Karystos (check timetables locally, ~1 hour) or arrange a return taxi pick-up in advance.

🚌Taxi Karystos → Styra area (€30–40), walk/hike Mount Kliosi, KTEL bus or taxi back to Karystos (~1 hour)

🛏Hotel Karystion or equivalent guesthouse, Karystos (~£35–45/night)

• →Scenic drive along the Eagle Route mountain road to Styra
• →Summit Mount Kliosi and explore the ancient acropolis ruins
• →Visit the Cave of St Nicolas and eerie ancient gate
• →Walk past Roman marble quarry remains and through Styra Valley villages
• →Lunch in one of the quaint Styra Valley tavernas

Take the local KTEL bus or a taxi (~15 mins, €10) to the village of Lycorema. From here, enjoy a leisurely flat coastal walk (~5km) along the dirt track around the bay to the charming fishing hamlet of Marmari. The walk is easy and scenic, ideal for a relaxed morning. Spend the afternoon entirely free — swim at Karystos Beach, explore the local Archaeological Museum (free or minimal entry), or sip coffee at a harbour café. This is a great evening for trying a full sit-down dinner at a traditional taverna.

🚌Taxi or KTEL bus Karystos → Lycorema (~€8–10), coastal walk to Marmari, walk or taxi back

🛏Hotel Karystion or equivalent guesthouse, Karystos (~£35–45/night)

• →Flat coastal walk around Marmari Bay (~5km)
• →Visit the fishing hamlet of Marmari
• →Free afternoon — swim at Karystos beach or explore town
• →Visit the small Karystos Archaeological Museum
• →Dinner at a harbour taverna in Karystos

Take a taxi (~20 mins, €15) to the mountain village of Argastaras and the Springs of St Theodore. From here, follow the trails up Mount Ohi to the extraordinary Roman cipollino marble quarries — 10 completed monolithic columns, abandoned as the Roman Empire declined, still stand in situ. Wear long trousers today as some paths have overgrown vegetation. Continue along ancient marble paths through the villages of upper and lower Aetos with sweeping Aegean views, descending to the coast dotted with sandy coves. Return to Karystos by taxi or on foot.

🚌Taxi Karystos → Argastaras (~€15), walk Mount Ohi trails and descend to coast, taxi back to Karystos

🛏Hotel Karystion or equivalent guesthouse, Karystos (~£35–45/night)

• →Hike Mount Ohi to the Imperial Roman cipollino marble quarries (~10km)
• →See 10 abandoned ancient marble columns in their original quarry setting
• →Walk ancient paths through upper and lower Aetos villages
• →Enjoy sweeping Aegean Sea views throughout
• →Explore coastal sandy coves on the return route

This is the most dramatic walk of the trip. Arrange a taxi from Karystos to the isolated village of Agios Dimitrios on Mount Ohi (~1 hour, €40–50 — worth sharing cost with fellow travellers if possible, or ask your guesthouse to help arrange a shared transfer). From Agios Dimitrios, follow the ancient gorge path — one of the oldest routes on the island — as it descends alongside the river, rises above limestone cliffs, and eventually reaches the remote wild beach on the rugged east coast. The gorge is a natural habitat for thyme, oregano, sage, peonies, orchids, eagles and falcons. After reaching the coast, arrange for a taxi to collect you and return to Karystos (~1 hour). Pre-arrange the pick-up time before you set off.

🚌Taxi Karystos → Agios Dimitrios (~€40–50, ~1 hour), walk gorge trail to east coast, pre-arranged taxi return to Karystos (~1 hour)

🛏Hotel Karystion or equivalent guesthouse, Karystos (~£35–45/night)

• →Walk the ancient Mount Ohi gorge — one of Evia's oldest paths (~10km)
• →Hike alongside the river through dramatic limestone canyon scenery
• →Spot wildlife: eagles, falcons, orchids and wild herbs
• →Reach the remote, wild beach on the rugged Aegean east coast
• →Pre-arrange taxi return to Karystos

Before checking out, ask your guesthouse to recommend a local beekeeper — Evia is famous for its thyme honey and many beekeepers welcome visitors informally, or pick up honey products at the morning market. Check out around midday and take a taxi or the KTEL bus to Marmari port (~20 mins). Board the Goutos Lines ferry back to Rafina (~1 hour, ~€10). From Rafina, take the KTEL Attiki bus to central Athens or a taxi/express bus to Athens Airport (~1 hour). Note: if your flight is late, consider storing luggage at the airport or in Athens and exploring briefly. Allow plenty of time for connections.

🚌Taxi/KTEL bus Karystos → Marmari (~€5–10), Goutos Lines ferry Marmari → Rafina (~€10), KTEL bus or taxi Rafina → Athens Airport (~1 hour, ~€5 bus or €35–45 taxi)

🛏None (departure day)

• →Visit a local beekeeper and taste Evia's famous thyme honey
• →Browse Karystos morning market before checkout
• →Ferry from Marmari back to Rafina
• →Transfer to Athens Airport