Georgia Highlights: A Self-Launched Caucasus Adventure

Land at Tbilisi International Airport and take bus 337 or the airport train (0.50–1 GEL, ~£0.30) into the city. If you can, catch the early-afternoon domestic flight from Tbilisi to Mestia (Vanilla Sky / Georgian Airways, roughly £35–55 one way, book ahead — it's weather dependent), then a local taxi or guesthouse pickup up the valley. Alternative overland route: overnight train or marshrutka from Tbilisi to Zugdidi, then a shared 4x4/marshrutka to Mestia (~4 hrs, 25–30 GEL). Check into a family guesthouse in Mestia with dinner included (half board is standard, 50–70 GEL).

🚌Airport bus 337 or train into Tbilisi; domestic flight Tbilisi–Mestia ~£35–55, or overnight train + shared 4x4 to Mestia

🛏Family guesthouse in Mestia (half board)

• →Arrive Tbilisi
• →Domestic hop or overland transfer to Svaneti
• →Evening walk around Mestia's stone towers

The road to Ushguli is rough and unsealed, so the standard backpacker move is to share a 4x4 with other travellers from your guesthouse or the Mestia tourist info office (roughly 150–200 GEL per vehicle for the day, split 4 ways = ~£10–14 each). Stop at the Tower of Love near Kviashuri and pull in at viewpoints over the Tetnuldi/Shkhara ranges. In Ushguli (Europe's highest continuously inhabited village, 2,100m) walk up to the Lamaria church and the fortified towers, and eat lunch at a village guesthouse (~15–20 GEL). Back in Mestia by early evening.

🚌Shared 4x4 hire for the day (~£10–14 per person split four ways)

🛏Family guesthouse in Mestia (half board)

• →Shared 4x4 to Ushguli
• →Tower of Love viewpoint stop
• →Shkhara/Tetnuldi panorama stops
• →Lamaria church and Ushguli tower walk

Return to Tbilisi: the domestic flight is the quickest option (~£35–55), otherwise the overnight or daytime marshrutka via Zugdidi (approx 12 hrs, 40–50 GEL). Settle into a hostel or budget hotel in the Sololaki/old town area, then spend the evening free-wandering the cobbled lanes, the Anchiskhati basilica area and the Bridge of Peace for the lit-up views. Grab khinkali and a glass of Saperavi at a no-frills basement taverna (~20–25 GEL).

🚌Domestic flight ~£35–55 or marshrutka via Zugdidi ~£12–15

🛏Hostel or budget hotel in Tbilisi old town

• →Transfer to Tbilisi
• →Self-guided old town wander
• →Bridge of Peace and Rike Park at night

Do the old town on foot: Sioni Cathedral, the leaning clock tower, the caravanserai and the Armenian quarter. Ride the Rike Park cable car up to Narikala Fortress (2.50 GEL one way, ~£0.75) for the classic city panorama, then walk down past the Mother of Georgia statue. In the evening, book a private sulfur bath at Abanotubani directly (small private rooms from ~60–100 GEL for an hour, ~£18–30; cheaper shared baths exist) — book on arrival or by phone a day ahead. Join a free walking tour on day one for orientation if you want a guide's context (tip-based, ~10–15 GEL tip).

🚌Metro and walking (metro 1 GEL per ride)

🛏Hostel or budget hotel in Tbilisi old town

• →Old town self-walk: Sioni Cathedral, clock tower, caravanserai
• →Narikala cable car and fortress
• →Optional Abanotubani sulfur bath
• →Optional tip-based free walking tour

Marshrutka 150 or the suburban train from Tbilisi to Mtskheta takes 30–40 minutes (~2–4 GEL). Walk up to Jvari Monastery for the confluence-of-rivers view, then down into town for Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. On the way back, ask the driver to drop you near the Chronicle of Georgia monument at Temka (or take a Bolt taxi, ~10–15 GEL from the centre) — best light is late afternoon. Eat lunch at a local family-run restaurant (Mtskheta is famous for its chiri bread and lobio).

🚌Marshrutka 150 or suburban train to Mtskheta, ~£1–2 each way; Bolt taxi to Chronicle of Georgia

🛏Hostel or budget hotel in Tbilisi old town

• →Jvari Monastery
• →Svetitskhoveli Cathedral
• →Chronicle of Georgia monument
• →Mtskheta family lunch

Marshrutka or shared taxi from Tbilisi's Samgori station to Signagi takes about 2 hrs (~10 GEL). En route or on arrival, visit the Bodbe Monastery of St Nino (a short walk/short taxi from Signagi). Signagi itself is all pastel balconies and Alazani Valley views over the town wall. Stay in a Kakheti guesthouse with a working vineyard — most offer a wine tasting plus a cooking session (churchkhela, khinkali or mtsvadi) for 40–70 GEL per person; book via Booking.com or the guesthouse directly. Signagi and Telavi tourism offices can also arrange it.

🚌Marshrutka/shared taxi Tbilisi–Signagi ~2 hrs, ~£7–9

🛏Kakheti wine guesthouse in Signagi or nearby village

• →Bodbe Monastery of St Nino
• →Signagi old town and city wall walk
• →Wine tasting at guesthouse winery
• →Georgian cooking class

Continue west by marshrutka or shared taxi to Telavi (~1 hr, 5–8 GEL). Base yourself in Telavi's old town and visit the Gremi fortified church complex (marshrutka or taxi ~15–20 GEL round trip; entry small). Wander the 900-year-old plane tree and the king's fortress. Telavi has affordable spa/sauna options at local hotels — book a bath or massage on arrival for roughly 40–60 GEL, much cheaper than tour-included spa packages.

🚌Marshrutka/shared taxi Signagi–Telavi ~£4–6; taxi to Gremi

🛏Guesthouse or budget hotel in Telavi

• →Gremi fortified church
• →Telavi old town wander
• →Local spa bath or massage

Long transport day but a spectacular one. Visit Alaverdi Cathedral by marshrutka/taxi from Telavi, then get back to Tbilisi and take the marshrutka from Didube station to Kazbegi (10–15 GEL, ~3 hrs), which runs along the Georgian Military Highway past the Jinvali Reservoir, the Ananuri fortress (get off, look round, catch the next minibus) and the Gudauri ski resort. Stay in a Stepantsminda guesthouse — rooms with mountain-facing balconies cost roughly 20–30 GEL extra per person and are worth it for Kazbek at sunrise.

🚌Local taxis to Alaverdi; marshrutka Tbilisi (Didube)–Kazbegi ~£3–4.50

🛏Guesthouse in Stepantsminda/Kazbegi with mountain-view room

• →Alaverdi Cathedral
• →Ananuri Fortress and Jinvali Reservoir
• →Gudauri viewpoint stop
• →Georgian Military Highway drive

Hike up to Gergeti Trinity Church (about 1.5 hrs up, free) or take a shared 4x4 from the village (60–80 GEL per vehicle). Then head north through the Dariali Gorge to the Dariali Monastery near the Russian border (taxi ~40 GEL round trip). In the afternoon take the marshrutka back to Tbilisi (3 hrs) and continue by train or marshrutka to Gori (~1.5 hrs). Optional: a quick look at Stalin's birthplace museum exterior in Gori's main square (the museum entry is ~10 GEL if you go in).

🚌Shared 4x4 to Gergeti; marshrutka Kazbegi–Tbilisi; train or marshrutka Tbilisi–Gori

🛏Guesthouse or budget hotel in Gori

• →Gergeti Trinity Church hike
• →Dariali Gorge and Dariali Monastery
• →Optional Stalin birthplace/museum
• →Transfer to Gori

Morning at Uplistsikhe cave city (marshrutka or taxi from Gori, ~15–20 GEL return; entry ~15 GEL), then marshrutka or train to Kutaisi (~2 hrs). Visit Bagrati Cathedral on the hill and wander the green bazaar for seasonal fruit. Book the Prometheus Cave entry directly (approx 25 GEL, ~£7.50; open daily, best booked by phone or at the ticket office) and take a taxi out — it's 20–25 GEL each way. Finish with an early evening train back to Tbilisi (~3.5 hrs, 10–20 GEL) or fly out of Kutaisi if that suits your routing better.

🚌Local taxis and marshrutkas; Georgian Railways Kutaisi–Tbilisi ~£3–6

🛏Hostel or budget hotel in Tbilisi

• →Uplistsikhe Cave City
• →Bagrati Cathedral
• →Kutaisi green bazaar fruit tasting
• →Prometheus Cave tour