India & Bhutan: Delhi, Darjeeling, Sikkim & the Himalayan Kingdom — Self-Launched

Land at Indira Gandhi International and take the Airport Express metro to New Delhi station (~£1.50) or a prepaid taxi (~£4). Check into a Paharganj guesthouse. Rather than a private half-day car tour, do it self-launched: metro to Central Secretariat for Rashtrapati Bhavan and India Gate, then an auto-rickshaw hop to Humayun's Tomb (~£5 entry), Lotus Temple (free) and Qutub Minar (~£5). Add Laxmi Narayan Temple if time allows. Evening: wander Karol Bagh or Connaught Place for street food.

🚌Airport Express metro ~£1.50; metro day pass ~£2; auto-rickshaws ~£1 per hop

🛏Paharganj or Karol Bagh guesthouse, private room with fan/AC

• →Humayun's Tomb
• →Qutub Minar
• →Lotus Temple
• →India Gate & Rajpath walk
• →India Gate
• →Karol Bagh street food

Book a Gatimaan Express or Shatabdi train from Hazrat Nizamuddin to Agra Cantt (2h, ~£8–12 return in chair car) — book on IRCTC well ahead. On arrival take an auto to the Taj Mahal East Gate (~£1.50) for the sunrise-to-midday slot (~£6 foreigners). Then walk or auto to Agra Fort (~£5), Itmad-ud-Daulah ('Baby Taj', ~£3) and Mehtab Bagh for the classic sunset view (~£3). Sikandra (Akbar's Tomb) is doable if you keep pace. Evening train back to Delhi.

🚌Return train Delhi–Agra ~£12; local autos ~£6 total

🛏Paharganj or Karol Bagh guesthouse, private room

• →Taj Mahal
• →Agra Fort
• →Itmad-ud-Daulah
• →Mehtab Bagh sunset
• →Sikandra / Akbar's Tomb

Morning flight Delhi–Bagdogra (IndiGo/SpiceJet, book 6–8 weeks ahead, ~£55–75 one way). From Bagdogra take a shared jeep to Darjeeling (~£6, 3h) or a bus from Siliguri (~£2). Check into a family guesthouse or budget hotel in the Chowrasta area — Mount Conifer-style 3* rooms can be booked direct for ~£20–28. Acclimatise gently: evening stroll on the Mall and momos at Kunga.

🚌Flight Delhi–Bagdogra ~£65; shared jeep Bagdogra–Darjeeling ~£6

🛏Budget 3* hotel near Chowrasta, Darjeeling

• →Chowrasta Mall evening walk
• →Glenary's bakery

Take a shared jeep or local bus from Darjeeling to Mirik (~£2, 1.5h). Rent a rowboat on Sumendu Lake (~£2), walk the footbridge, visit Bokar Monastery and Pashupati market, and stop at the Simana viewpoint on the way back if your jeep driver will wait. Return to Darjeeling for the evening. Alternatively hire a shared day jeep from the Darjeeling taxi stand (~£10 per person for four).

🚌Shared jeep/bus Darjeeling–Mirik return ~£4–6

🛏Budget 3* hotel near Chowrasta, Darjeeling

• →Sumendu Lake boating
• →Bokar Monastery
• →Pashupati viewpoint
• →Simana viewpoint

Pre-book a shared sunrise jeep to Tiger Hill (~£4 per person, 4am departure; pay the ~£1 viewpoint fee on arrival) for Kanchenjunga at dawn. On the way back stop at Ghoom Monastery and the Batasia Loop. Then self-tour the town: Peace Pagoda and Japanese Temple (free/donation), Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park and Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (~£3 combined), Tenzing & Gombu Rock, the Tibetan Refugee Self Help Centre (free) and a working tea estate such as Happy Valley (~£2 tasting). Be back for sunset at the Mall.

🚌Shared sunrise jeep ~£4–6; local taxis ~£5

🛏Budget 3* hotel near Chowrasta, Darjeeling

• →Tiger Hill sunrise
• →Batasia Loop
• →Ghoom Monastery
• →Peace Pagoda
• →Himalayan Mountaineering Institute
• →Tibetan Refugee Self Help Centre
• →Tea estate visit

Shared jeep or bus Darjeeling–Gangtok (~£4–6, 4h) via Teesta. Sikkim permits: Indian nationals need nothing extra; foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit — easiest is to get it at the Sikkim Tourism office in Siliguri or through your Gangtok hotel for ~£2–3 with passport copies. Settle in, walk MG Marg, and if you're keen, ask your hotel about Teesta river rafting for tomorrow's late afternoon (~£10).

🚌Shared jeep Darjeeling–Gangtok ~£5

🛏Family-run guesthouse or budget hotel off MG Marg, Gangtok

• →MG Marg walk
• →Lal Bazaar
• →Optional Teesta river rafting

Hire a local taxi for a half-day circuit (~£15–20 per car, split between travellers from your guesthouse) or use shared sumos. Cover Tashi View Point, Ganesh Tok and Hanuman Tok, then Rumtek Monastery (~£1) or Jhakri Falls. Back in town: Do-Drul Chorten, Namgyal Institute of Tibetology (~£1), the Directorate of Handicrafts & Handlooms, and the Gangtok ropeway (~£3). Botanical garden and flower show if time.

🚌Half-day taxi or shared sumo ~£8–12 per person

🛏Family-run guesthouse or budget hotel off MG Marg, Gangtok

• →Tashi View Point
• →Rumtek Monastery
• →Do-Drul Chorten
• →Namgyal Institute of Tibetology
• →Gangtok ropeway
• →Handicrafts emporium

Shared jeeps to Tsomgo Lake leave from the Gangtok taxi stand — book a seat the day before (~£8–10 per person, 3–4h round trip). Foreign nationals need the permit endorsed for Tsomgo and Nathu La, arranged by your hotel/agent (~£3). Above 3,700m it's cold — bring layers. Optional yak ride at the lake (~£4), then Baba Mandir. Return to Gangtok by mid-afternoon. Note Nathu La requires an extra permit and a weekday; skip unless you've pre-arranged it.

🚌Shared jeep to Tsomgo Lake ~£9

🛏Family-run guesthouse or budget hotel off MG Marg, Gangtok

• →Tsomgo Lake
• →Baba Mandir
• →Yak ride (optional)

Shared jeeps/buses Gangtok–Siliguri (~£3), then a local bus or shared jeep Siliguri–Phuentsholing (~£2.50, 3h). At the Bhutan gate, complete immigration: most nationalities now apply for the Bhutan visa/SDF online in advance via the Department of Immigration portal — do this weeks ahead and print your approval letter. Once through, change money to ngultrum (1:1 with INR) but keep INR, it's accepted everywhere. Evening stroll and dinner in Phuentsholing.

🚌Shared jeeps/buses Gangtok–Siliguri–Phuentsholing ~£6

🛏Simple hotel or guesthouse, Phuentsholing

• →Bhutan border crossing
• →Phuentsholing market walk

Take a local Bhutan Post or shared bus Phuentsholing–Thimphu (~£3–4, 6h) — book a seat the day before at the bus counter. Whichever way, the climb through the hills is spectacular. Arrive Thimphu, check into a family guesthouse on the edge of town, then explore the weekend market (if it's Fri–Sun) and try ema datshi and momos at a local eatery (~£4). Note that in Bhutan a licensed guide is legally required for organised touring but not for independent travellers on the SDF — you can hire a guide by the day for specific sites if you want one (~£25–35/day).

🚌Local/shared bus Phuentsholing–Thimphu ~£4

🛏Family guesthouse or budget hotel, Thimphu

• →Thimphu weekend market
• →Local street food
• →National Memorial Chorten walk

Do Thimphu on foot plus local taxis. Start at the National Memorial Chorten, then Tashichhodzong (open after 5pm for the courtyard), the Folk Heritage Museum (~£2), the National Textile Museum (~£2), the Government handicrafts emporium, and the giant Buddha Dordenma at Buddha View Point (free). Climb the short trail to BBS Tower for city views. Walk past the National Institute of Traditional Medicine (outside view). The zoo is optional and small. Evening: craft beer at the Bhutan Brewery taproom or a hot-stone bath (~£15).

🚌Local taxis ~£6

🛏Family guesthouse or budget hotel, Thimphu

• →National Memorial Chorten
• →Tashichhodzong
• →Buddha Dordenma
• →Folk Heritage Museum
• →National Textile Museum
• →BBS Tower viewpoint

Shared taxi or bus Thimphu–Punakha (~£4–6, 3h) via Dochula Pass (3,100m) — ask the driver to stop for the 108 chortens and the Himalaya panorama. In Punakha, walk the long suspension bridge and visit Punakha Dzong (~£4) — best light in late afternoon. Add Chimi Lhakhang (the fertility temple, 40min walk through rice fields) if you have energy. Stay riverside in a guesthouse in Khuruthang or Punakha town.

🚌Shared taxi/bus Thimphu–Punakha ~£5

🛏Riverside guesthouse or budget hotel, Punakha

• →Dochula Pass & 108 chortens
• →Punakha Dzong
• →Punakha suspension bridge
• →Chimi Lhakhang hike

Retrace to Wangdue Phodrang to see the rebuilt Wangdue Dzong (burned 2012, now reopened) and its local market, then continue to Paro (~4h total by shared taxi/bus, ~£6). If travelling by shared taxi you can stop at Simtokha Dzong on the Thimphu outskirts — otherwise it's a quick look from Thimphu another day. Arrive Paro, walk the main street, and buy your Tiger's Nest entry (~£8) at the Paro Dzong ticket office to save queuing tomorrow.

🚌Shared taxi/bus Punakha–Paro ~£6–8

🛏Guesthouse or budget boutique hotel, Paro town

• →Wangdue Dzong
• →Wangdue local market
• →Simtokha Dzong (en route)
• →Paro town walk

Start early for Taktsang (Tiger's Nest): from Paro town it's a ~£6 taxi to the trailhead, then a 2–3h climb (or hire a horse for the lower half, ~£12). Allow 5h round trip including the monastery visit. Afternoon: National Museum at Ta Dzong (~£2), the walk down to Rinpung Dzong (~£4), Drukgyel Dzong (exterior), Kyichu Lhakhang (one of Bhutan's oldest temples, free/donation), and a traditional farmhouse visit arranged through your guesthouse for lunch (~£8). Big dinner in Paro to celebrate.

🚌Local taxis ~£10

🛏Guesthouse or budget boutique hotel, Paro town

• →Tiger's Nest (Taktsang) hike
• →Ta Dzong National Museum
• →Rinpung Dzong
• →Kyichu Lhakhang
• →Traditional farmhouse lunch
• →Drukgyel Dzong

Morning flight Paro–Delhi on Drukair/Bhutan Airlines (~£150–190 one way; book far ahead, it sells out). Alternatively fly Paro–Kolkata and connect, or return overland to Phuentsholing and bus to Siliguri if you're on a tight budget. On arrival in Delhi, take the Airport Express to your Paharganj guesthouse. Spend the afternoon on anything you missed: Chandni Chowk food walk (~£10 with a local), Red Fort (~£5), or the Nizamuddin area. Final dinner.

🚌Flight Paro–Delhi ~£165; Airport Express ~£1.50

🛏Paharganj or Karol Bagh guesthouse, private room

• →Chandni Chowk food walk
• →Red Fort
• →Nizamuddin Dargah qawwali (Thursday)

Lazy breakfast, last-minute shopping in Janpath or Dilli Haat, then the Airport Express to IGI for your flight home. If your flight is late, the National Museum (~£4) near Central Secretariat is an excellent way to fill a few hours.

🚌Airport Express metro ~£1.50

🛏—

• →Dilli Haat shopping
• →National Museum (optional)