North India Highlights — Self-Launched

Land at IGI Airport and take the Airport Express metro (~₹60/£0.60) or a prepaid taxi (~₹600/£6) to a budget hotel or hostel in Paharganj or Karol Bagh. Get an Indian eSIM or Airtel SIM at the airport, set up UPI or withdraw cash, and keep the first day light — the heat and traffic are the real arrival test. Evening walk around Connaught Place for a first thali.

🚌Airport Express metro or prepaid taxi from IGI

🛏Budget hotel/hostel, Paharganj or Karol Bagh (₹900–1,400/£9–14 per dorm bed or budget double)

• →Airport Express metro transfer
• →SIM card setup
• →Connaught Place evening wander

Build your own monument loop: start early at Qutub Minar, then Humayun's Tomb, the Lotus Temple (closed Mondays), and a drive-past of Rashtrapati Bhavan and India Gate. Afternoon: take the Yellow Line metro to Chandni Chowk (Chawri Bazaar exit) and ride a cycle rickshaw through the spice market (~₹150/£1.50), finishing at Raj Ghat and a Red Fort photo stop. Book a half-day Old Delhi food walk on GetYourGuide/Klook (~£12–18) if you want local context without a full private guide.

🚌Delhi Metro day card (~₹150/£1.50) plus autos for short hops (₹50–100 each)

🛏Same budget hotel/hostel, New Delhi

• →Qutub Minar entry (~₹35/£0.35)
• →Humayun's Tomb (~₹35)
• →Lotus Temple (free)
• →Chandni Chowk cycle rickshaw
• →Optional Old Delhi food walk via GetYourGuide/Klook

Train or bus north-west into Shekhawati's painted-haveli country. The cleanest option is a morning train to Jhunjhunu or Nawalgarh (e.g. the Delhi–Jhunjhunu services, ~₹400–700/£4–7 sleeper/3AC) and a shared auto or local bus the last 30–50 km to Mandawa (~₹100/£1). Check IRCTC or use a booking app for current times. Once there, walk the terraced lanes of Mandawa's havelis — many frescoes are free to see from the street; the Haveli Nadine and Gulab Rai Ladia havelis charge small fees.

🚌Delhi–Jhunjhunu/Nawalgarh train (~£4–7) + local bus/auto to Mandawa (~£1)

🛏Haveli guesthouse in Mandawa (₹1,000–1,600/£10–16)

• →Painted haveli walk
• →Mandawa fort viewpoint at sunset

Bus or train south-west to Bikaner (~3–4 hrs by bus, ₹250–400/£2.50–4; trains on the Jaipur–Bikaner line also work). Afternoon: Junagarh Fort (entry ~₹200 plus camera fee), Lalgarh Palace, and the ornate Bhandasar Jain Temple. If time allows, the government Camel Breeding Farm (small entry) is a cheap taste of the region without the packaged 'camel milk' tour stop. Sunset at Junagarh's ramparts is a good free close.

🚌Long-distance bus Mandawa–Bikaner (~£3–4)

🛏Budget guesthouse, Bikaner old town (₹900–1,500/£9–15)

• →Junagarh Fort
• →Lalgarh Palace
• →Bhandasar Jain Temple
• →Camel Breeding Farm (optional)

Take the morning train or bus to Jaisalmer (~5–6 hrs, ₹300–900/£3–9 depending on class). Non-AC buses are the cheapest; 3AC train is more comfortable. Pre-book a Sam Sand Dunes camel ride + desert camp package through Klook or directly with a Jaisalmer operator (~£25–40 for sunset camel ride, dinner, folk Rajasthani dance and a tented night) — this is exactly what the tour's desert camp covers at a fraction of the price. Bring a head torch and warm layer; desert nights are cold in winter.

🚌Train or bus Bikaner–Jaisalmer (~£3–9)

🛏Desert camp tent (included in the ~£25–40 dunes package); alternative: budget guesthouse in Jaisalmer (₹800–1,300)

• →Sam Sand Dunes camel ride
• →Rajasthani folk dance and music dinner
• →Desert camp overnight

Return to town and explore on foot: Jaisalmer Fort (living fort — free to enter the lanes, small ticket for the palace museum), Patwon-ki-Haveli (~₹100) and Salim Singh-ki-Haveli, Gadisar Lake at golden hour, and the Thar Heritage Museum. Skip the packaged gallery stop in favour of wandering the fort's craft lanes. A local guide at the fort gate costs ₹500–800/£5–8 for 2 hrs if you want storytelling.

🚌Walking town — occasional auto (₹50–80)

🛏Budget guesthouse inside or near the fort (₹900–1,500/£9–15)

• →Jaisalmer Fort
• →Patwon-ki-Haveli
• →Salim Singh-ki-Haveli
• →Gadisar Lake sunset
• →Optional local fort guide

Morning train or bus to Jodhpur (~5 hrs, ₹300–800/£3–8). Drop bags and head to Mehrangarh Fort (entry ~₹600/£6, audio guide ~₹200) — the highlight of the trip for many travellers. Then Jaswant Thada (₹30), the Clock Tower market for mirchi vada snacks, and if you have energy, Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park (₹100). For the Rohet-style village feel, either take a shared jeep to Rohet (~30 km, ₹150–250) for a village stay, or simply base in Jodhpur's old town — cheaper and better connected.

🚌Train/bus Jaisalmer–Jodhpur (~£3–8) + shared jeep to Rohet (~£2)

🛏Village guesthouse in Rohet (₹1,200–1,800/£12–18) or Jodhpur budget hotel

• →Mehrangarh Fort
• →Jaswant Thada
• →Clock Tower market
• →Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park (optional)

Long travel day by local bus: Rohet/Jodhpur to Ranakpur (~4–5 hrs, ₹200–350), stopping to see the extraordinary Ranakpur Jain Temples (free entry, camera fee ~₹100 — marble carvings not to be missed). Continue by shared jeep or bus to Kumbhalgarh (~1.5 hrs, ₹100–200). Evening walk in the village below the fort; the resort-style hotels from the tour are replaced with small guesthouses here, which is all you need.

🚌Local buses and shared jeeps (~£4–6 total)

🛏Guesthouse near Kumbhalgarh (₹1,000–1,600/£10–16)

• →Ranakpur Jain Temples
• →Kumbhalgarh village walk

Climb Kumbhalgarh Fort early (entry ~₹200, camera ~₹300) — the 36 km wall is genuinely worth the climb and gives the trip its best hike (allow 2.5–3 hrs, bring water). Then bus/shared jeep to Udaipur (~2.5–3 hrs), optionally breaking at Eklingji and Nagda temples (open morning/evening, free) on the Nathdwara road. Arrive Udaipur, settle into a rooftop guesthouse by Lal Ghat or Gangaur Ghat.

🚌Shared jeep/bus Kumbhalgarh–Udaipur (~£3)

🛏Rooftop budget guesthouse, Lal Ghat, Udaipur (₹900–1,500/£9–15)

• →Kumbhalgarh Fort walk
• →Eklingji Temple
• →Nagda Temple

Do it yourself: City Palace (₹400), Jagdish Temple (free), Saheliyon-ki-Bari (₹100), and Ambrai Ghat for sunset photos. Take a shared boat ride on Lake Pichola at sunset (~₹500–700/£5–7) instead of a private one. In the evening, book the Dharohar folk dance show at Bagore ki Haveli directly at the ticket window (~₹150/£1.50, 7 pm) — the exact same performance the tour includes. The vintage car museum (~₹400) is optional; skip it if you'd rather have a long rooftop dinner.

🚌Walking and autos (₹50–100)

🛏Same rooftop guesthouse, Udaipur

• →City Palace
• →Jagdish Temple
• →Saheliyon-ki-Bari
• →Lake Pichola boat ride
• →Dharohar dance show at Bagore ki Haveli

Take an early bus or train to Chittorgarh (~2.5 hrs), then a shared auto up to Chittorgarh Fort (entry ~₹200, auto ~₹150 return). Give the fort 3–4 hrs: Rana Kumbha Palace, Tower of Fame (Kirti Stambh), Padmini Palace, Victory Tower and the museum. Then onward bus to Bundi (~3 hrs, ₹200–300) — arrive by evening and eat at the old town's rooftop cafés.

🚌Bus/train Udaipur–Chittorgarh (~£3) + auto up to fort (~£1.50) + bus to Bundi (~£2.50)

🛏Heritage-style budget guesthouse, Bundi old town (₹800–1,400/£8–14)

• →Chittorgarh Fort
• →Rana Kumbha Palace
• →Vijay Stambh (Victory Tower)
• →Padmini Palace

Morning in Bundi: climb to Taragarh Fort for free, admire the famous Chitrashala murals in Bundi Palace (small ticket ~₹150), and see Raniji ki Baori stepwell. Then bus Bundi to Ajmer (~3 hrs, ₹200) and shared bus/auto the last 15 km to Pushkar (~₹50). Evening at the ghats — a quieter, prettier approach than a guided tour because you can linger.

🚌Bus Bundi–Ajmer (~£2) + local bus/auto to Pushkar (~£0.50)

🛏Budget guesthouse, Pushkar (₹800–1,400/£8–14)

• →Taragarh Fort
• →Bundi Palace / Chitrashala
• →Raniji ki Baori stepwell
• →Pushkar ghat walk

Sunrise at Pushkar Lake and the Brahma Temple (open 6–8 am, free), then hike (or shared auto) up to Savitri Temple for the valley view. Midday bus to Jaipur (~3 hrs, ₹250–350). Arf by evening in the old city — check into a guesthouse near Badi Chaupar and walk to Hawa Mahal's facade for the golden-hour light.

🚌Bus Pushkar–Jaipur (~£3) + auto to old city (~£1)

🛏Budget guesthouse near Badi Chaupar, Jaipur (₹900–1,500/£9–15)

• →Pushkar Lake sunrise
• →Brahma Temple
• →Savitri Temple viewpoint
• →Hawa Mahal exterior at sunset

Catch a local bus or shared auto to Amber Fort (~₹100) early to beat the crowds (entry ₹500, camera ₹100). Skip the elephant ride in favour of the jeep or just the stairs — elephants are a welfare concern. Then City Palace (₹700) and Jantar Mantar (₹200) in the old town, drive-past Jal Mahal on the way back, and Birla Temple at dusk (free). Optional: Jaigarh or Nahargarh Fort for sunset views (~₹200 each) — the Nahargarh sunset is the better use of an evening.

🚌Local bus to Amber (~£1) + autos in the old city (~£2)

🛏Same budget guesthouse, Jaipur

• →Amber Fort
• →City Palace
• →Jantar Mantar
• →Jal Mahal viewpoint
• →Birla Temple
• →Nahargarh Fort sunset (optional)

Morning train or bus to Sawai Madhopur (~2.5–3.5 hrs, ₹250–700/£2.50–7). Book your safari through the Rajasthan Forest Department online portal (rajasthanwildlife.in) as soon as your dates are fixed — permits are limited and sell out; shared 6-seater gypsy safaris cost ~₹1,800–2,200/£18–22 per person per drive, cheaper if sharing. Afternoon drive (zones are allocated by lottery) from roughly 2:30–6 pm.

🚌Train/bus Jaipur–Sawai Madhopur (~£3–7)

🛏Budget safari guesthouse/resort outside the park (₹1,200–1,800/£12–18)

• →Afternoon Ranthambore jungle safari (shared gypsy)
• →Sawai Madhopur town evening

Morning drive (6:30–10 am) and afternoon drive, both pre-booked through the forest portal. Three drives total gives you a real chance of a tiger sighting; the park is also superb for sloth bears, leopards and birdlife. Between drives, catch up on sleep and eat dal-bati at a local dhaba — this day is the main splurge after the desert camp, and still less than the tour's included safaris are worth.

🚌Park gypsies (included in safari permits)

🛏Same budget safari guesthouse, Ranthambore

• →Morning game drive
• →Afternoon game drive
• →Local dhaba lunch

Bus or shared jeep to Karauli (~2.5–3 hrs, ₹150–250) via Hindaun City. Karauli is untouristed and cheap: the City Palace (small entry), the Madan Mohan Temple, and the craft lanes. For the village/handicraft experience the tour includes, ask your guesthouse to arrange a short camel-cart or jeep village loop locally (~₹400–700/£4–7) — much cheaper than a packaged version. Evening in the old bazaar.

🚌Bus/shared jeep Ranthambore–Karauli (~£2–3)

🛏Budget haveli-style guesthouse, Karauli (₹900–1,500/£9–15)

• →Karauli City Palace
• →Madan Mohan Temple
• →Village camel-cart loop (locally arranged)
• →Old bazaar walk

Long transit: bus or shared jeep to Hindaun/Dholpur then train to Gwalior (~6–7 hrs total, ₹400–800/£4–8), or take a train from nearby Gangapur City if times suit. Once in Gwalior, the fort is your priority: walk up from the town side (free approach) and see Man Mandir Palace, Sas-Bahu Temple and Teli-ka-Mandir (combined fort ticket ~₹250). Gujari Mahal museum is closed Fridays. Sunset from the fort walls is excellent.

🚌Bus + train to Gwalior (~£4–8)

🛏Budget hotel near the fort, Gwalior (₹1,000–1,500/£10–15)

• →Gwalior Fort
• →Man Mandir Palace
• →Sas-Bahu Temple
• →Teli-ka-Mandir

Morning: Jai Vilas Palace (scindia museum, ~₹300), Tansen's mausoleum (free) and the Tomb of Gaus Mohammad. Then afternoon train to Agra (~1.5 hrs, ₹150–500/£1.50–5) — quick and simple compared with the private-car version. On arrival, buy your Taj Mahal ticket (₹1,100, includes shoe covers and water; closed Fridays) and go to Mehtab Bagh (₹300) for a sunset view across the Yamuna. Stroll Agra Fort's exterior at dusk if you have energy.

🚌Train Gwalior–Agra (~£1.50–5)

🛏Budget hotel in Taj Ganj (₹900–1,500/£9–15)

• →Jai Vilas Palace
• →Tansen's Mausoleum
• →Tomb of Gaus Mohammad
• →Mehtab Bagh sunset Taj view

Get to the East Gate before 6 am for sunrise at the Taj Mahal — the light and the quiet are worth the early alarm, and a self-bought ticket needs no guide. Back for breakfast, then Agra Fort (₹650) and Itmad-ud-Daulah's Tomb (₹310). Afternoon: bus to Fatehpur Sikri (~1.25 hrs, ₹70–100) plus a local bus/auto up to the complex; see the Buland Darwaza, Panch Mahal and Tomb of Salim Chisti (uncovered tombstones trigger an aggressive 'donation' request — decline politely). Evening bus or train back to Delhi (~3.5–4 hrs, ₹300–800/£3–8).

🚌Local bus Agra–Fatehpur Sikri (~£1) + bus/train Fatehpur Sikri–Delhi (~£3–8)

🛏Budget hotel, Paharganj/Karol Bagh, New Delhi (₹900–1,400/£9–14)

• →Taj Mahal at sunrise
• →Agra Fort
• →Itmad-ud-Daulah's Tomb
• →Fatehpur Sikri
• →Tomb of Salim Chisti

Final dosa breakfast, last-minute shopping in Janpath or Dilli Haat, then Airport Express metro back to IGI for your flight home. Leave 3 hrs before an international departure — Delhi traffic is real and the metro is the reliable way round it.

🚌Airport Express metro (~£0.60) or taxi (~£6)

🛏None (departure day)

• →Janpath/Dilli Haat shopping
• →Airport Express to IGI