Self-Launched: Hike & Feast Across Croatia's Istrian Wine Country

Fly into Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport (LJU) — well connected from across the UK and Europe. Take the airport shuttle bus into the city centre (around £5, ~45 mins) and check into a central guesthouse or budget boutique hotel. Ljubljana is a gem in its own right: spend the evening wandering the cobbled riverside, crossing the Triple Bridge, and soaking up the café culture. Head to the Stari trg (Old Square) area for dinner — try a local restaurant for Slovenian Alpine-Adriatic flavours. Restavracija Ribca near the market or Gostilna na Gradu in the castle are both atmospheric and affordable.

🚌Fly into Ljubljana Airport (LJU). Take the Alpetour airport shuttle bus to the city centre (~£5, runs every 30-60 mins). Alternatively, a shared Uber/taxi is ~£20.

🛏Hostel Celica (design hostel in a converted jail, hugely atmospheric, ~£25-35 for a private room) or Hotel Emonec (central budget boutique, ~£50-65 twin). Book via Booking.com.

• →Airport shuttle bus into Ljubljana city centre (~£5)
• →Self-guided evening walk along the Ljubljanica River and old town
• →Welcome dinner at a local Slovenian restaurant in the old town (budget ~£15-20 for food and wine)

If you've hired a car (recommended for this trip — see transport note below), head south from Ljubljana into Croatia. The drive to Hum takes around 2 hours. Hum is officially the world's smallest town, with fewer than 30 residents. Park outside the walls and wander freely — it's free to enter. Visit the small church frescoes and pick up a bottle of biska (mistletoe grappa) from the locals. Lunch at Humska Konoba tavern right in the village — a true Istrian experience with seasonal local dishes (expect ~£12-18 for a hearty lunch with wine). After lunch, drive through the rolling truffle forests and vineyard-covered hills to Motovun. Check into your guesthouse and explore the medieval walls at sunset.

🚌Self-drive from Ljubljana to Hum (~2 hrs, 130km). A rental car is strongly recommended for this itinerary — book via Rentalcars.com or Discover Cars for ~£25-35/day (split between travel companions to reduce cost). Alternatively, take a bus from Ljubljana to Pazin (~£8, ~2.5 hrs) then a local taxi to Hum (~£15).

🛏Guesthouse or agriturismo near Motovun — try Agriturismo Roxanna or Villa Borgo guesthouse in Motovun (~£45-65/night for a double room). Book via Booking.com.

• →Self-guided walk through Hum, the world's smallest town (free entry)
• →Grappa tasting and browse of local biska producers in Hum (~£5)
• →Lunch at Humska Konoba tavern, Hum (~£12-18)
• →Drive through truffle country to Motovun
• →Evening walk on Motovun's medieval ramparts (free)

Drive the short distance to the quiet village of Zavrsje and set off on a self-guided hike back toward Motovun through Istria's rolling countryside. The route (approx. 10 miles, around 4-5 hours walking) passes through the hilltop hamlet of Oprtalj — stop at a local agritourism spot for a coffee and a bite. Descend to the village of Livade, home to Zigante Tartufi, one of Istria's most famous truffle houses, as well as several family-run wineries. Visit Visintin Winery (book direct via their website or call ahead) for a wine tasting of four local varieties paired with a light lunch of local cheese, prosciutto, and olive oil (~£20-30 per person). Walk or drive the final stretch back to Motovun. Tonight, dine independently at one of Motovun's excellent konoba restaurants — Konoba Mondo or Restaurant Barbakan are both excellent choices (budget ~£15-20).

🚌Short drive from Motovun to Zavrsje (10 mins). Download hiking route on Komoot (search 'Zavrsje to Motovun') or AllTrails before departure. Return to Motovun on foot or by car from Livade.

🛏Same as Day 2 — guesthouse near Motovun (~£45-65/night).

• →Self-guided hike from Zavrsje through Oprtalj to Livade (~10 miles, 4-5 hrs)
• →Coffee and snacks at an agritourism stop in Oprtalj (~£5)
• →Wine tasting and light lunch at Visintin Winery, Livade (~£20-30, book direct)
• →Independent dinner at Konoba Mondo or Barbakan in Motovun (~£15-20)

Set out from Motovun on a self-guided hike (approx. 6 miles, 3-4 hours) descending through vineyards and small villages toward Spinovci. Look for Agroturizam Vrh (the brothers' restaurant featured in the original tour) for a truffle pasta and local wine lunch — call ahead to book (~£20-25). After lunch, drive south toward the Adriatic coast, stopping en route at Jola, a family-owned organic olive farm near Buje. Contact Jola farm directly via their website or Instagram to arrange a tasting (~£5-10). Continue to the Savudrija/Umag area on the coast and check into your guesthouse. The coast here is quieter and more affordable than Rovinj — a great base for the next three nights.

🚌Self-drive from Motovun to Spinovci area for hike start, then south to Buje and on to the Savudrija/Umag coast (~1 hr total driving). Use Google Maps or Maps.me offline.

🛏Guesthouse or small hotel near Savudrija or Umag — try Villa Rosina or Guesthouse Bonaca in Savudrija (~£40-60/night). Book via Booking.com or direct.

• →Self-guided hike from Motovun toward Spinovci (~6 miles, 3-4 hrs)
• →Truffle pasta lunch at Agroturizam Vrh, Spinovci (~£20-25, book ahead)
• →Olive oil tasting at Jola farm near Buje (~£5-10, contact direct)
• →Check-in at coastal guesthouse near Savudrija/Umag

Drive to the hilltop town of Buje and pick up the trail toward Groznjan (approx. 6 miles, ~3 hours). The route follows quiet country paths through classic Istrian patchwork countryside — download the route on Komoot or AllTrails in advance. Groznjan is a stunning artists' village filled with galleries, music workshops, and artisan studios. Spend a couple of hours exploring freely — wander into open galleries, grab lunch at a local café or konoba (~£10-15), and browse the ceramics and paintings. Drive back to your coastal base in the afternoon for a relaxed afternoon by the sea. Many guesthouses on this stretch of coast have pools or direct sea access.

🚌Drive from coastal base to Buje (~20 mins). Self-guided hike to Groznjan. Drive back from Groznjan to coast (~30 mins).

🛏Same as Day 4 — coastal guesthouse near Savudrija/Umag (~£40-60/night).

• →Self-guided hike from Buje to Groznjan (~6 miles, ~3 hrs, download route on Komoot)
• →Free exploration of Groznjan's galleries, studios, and artisan workshops
• →Independent lunch in Groznjan at a local konoba (~£10-15)
• →Relaxed afternoon at your coastal guesthouse

Drive south to Rovinj — one of Croatia's most photogenic towns and well worth the 45-minute drive. Rovinj is very easy to self-explore: the old town sits on a small peninsula and you can walk the entire historic core in a morning. Wander the colourful Venetian-style alleyways, climb up to the Church of St. Euphemia for panoramic views over the harbour, and browse the waterfront boutiques. Have lunch by the water — try Konoba Kantinon or Konoba Puntalina for fresh seafood (budget ~£18-25 with wine). Drive back north along the coast for a relaxed afternoon. For your farewell dinner, head into Savudrija or Umag for fresh Adriatic seafood — Restaurant Badi in Savudrija is right on the water and excellent value (~£18-25).

🚌Self-drive from Savudrija/Umag to Rovinj (~45 mins, 55km south). Return north to base in the afternoon. Alternatively, in peak summer, a local bus runs from Umag to Rovinj (~£6 each way, check Autotrans timetable).

🛏Same as Days 4 & 5 — coastal guesthouse near Savudrija/Umag (~£40-60/night).

• →Self-guided walk through Rovinj's historic old town (free)
• →Climb to Church of St. Euphemia for harbour panorama (entry ~£3)
• →Seafood lunch at a waterfront konoba in Rovinj (~£18-25)
• →Farewell dinner at a seafood restaurant in Savudrija (~£18-25)

After breakfast at your guesthouse, pack up and begin the drive back north to Ljubljana Airport (~2 hours, 160km). The route is straightforward on the E751 motorway. Drop off your hire car at the airport (budget for Croatian motorway tolls, around £5-8 for the full journey). If your flight is in the evening or you want one last look at Ljubljana, drop the car at the airport, jump on the shuttle bus into town (~£5), and spend a few hours in the city before heading back to catch your flight.

🚌Self-drive from Savudrija/Umag coast to Ljubljana Airport (~2 hrs, 160km). Croatian motorway toll ~£5-8. Drop hire car at airport. Airport shuttle bus into Ljubljana city centre if extending (~£5).

🛏None — departure day.

• →Breakfast at guesthouse
• →Scenic drive north through Istria back to Slovenia
• →Optional final hours in Ljubljana city centre before departure