Self-Launched Japan Adventure: Kyushu & Shikoku

Fly into Osaka Kansai International Airport (KIX) and make your way to your hostel in the Shin-Osaka or Namba area. The Haruka Express train connects KIX to Shin-Osaka in around 75 minutes (~£13). Spend your first evening exploring Osaka's legendary food scene — head to Dotonbori for takoyaki (octopus balls) and okonomiyaki. This is a great city to arrive a day early if you want extra exploration time.

🚌Haruka Express from KIX to Shin-Osaka: ~£13

🛏Khaosan World Osaka Guesthouse or similar (dorm ~£18/night, private ~£35/night)

• →Arrive at Kansai International Airport — take the Haruka Express to Shin-Osaka (~£13)
• →Check into your hostel in Osaka
• →Explore Dotonbori for street food dinner — budget £8-12

Board the Shinkansen (bullet train) from Shin-Osaka towards Hiroshima, breaking the journey at Himeji (~30 min, ~£18 on JR Pass or buy individual ticket). Explore the stunning 600-year-old Himeji Castle (entrance ~£6) and the surrounding grounds. In the afternoon, continue by Shinkansen to Onomichi (a further ~2hr 10min, ~£25). Pack light for the next two nights — leave your main luggage at your Onomichi hotel's storage. Check into U2 Hotel or a budget equivalent near the waterfront.

🚌JR Shinkansen Shin-Osaka → Himeji → Onomichi: ~£43 total (or use a 7-day JR Pass ~£220 for the full trip)

🛏U2 Hotel Onomichi or Onomichi Guesthouse Miharashi-tei (budget ~£30-40/night)

• →Shinkansen from Shin-Osaka to Himeji (~30 min, ~£18)
• →Visit Himeji Castle — self-guided, entrance ~£6
• →Shinkansen Himeji to Onomichi (~2hr 10min, ~£25)
• →Explore Onomichi's famous cat-filled hillside lanes and temple walk

One of the world's great cycle routes, the Shimanami Kaido stretches 70km across six islands in the Seto Inland Sea. Hire a bicycle in Onomichi (~£10-15/day from Giant Store Onomichi or the ferry terminal rental shop) and ride the 35km route to Ikuchi Island, crossing stunning suspension bridges with sea views. Helmets are provided with bike hire. Stop at the ornate Kosanji Temple complex (entrance ~£6) on Ikuchi Island. Those who prefer not to cycle can take the Setonaikai Kisen ferry (~£15).

🚌Bicycle hire ~£12; ferry option ~£15

🛏Yabune Guesthouse Setoda or Shimanami Guest House Sumikko (~£25-35/night)

• →Hire bicycle from Onomichi Giant Store or ferry terminal rental (~£10-15)
• →Cycle 35km of the Shimanami Kaido across the Seto Inland Sea bridges
• →Visit Kosanji Temple on Ikuchi Island (entrance ~£6)
• →Explore Ikuchi Island's lemon groves and coastal scenery

Take the early morning bus to Imabari Station, then continue by JR train to Matsuyama (~2 hours total, ~£15). Matsuyama is Shikoku's largest city and birthplace of modern haiku. After checking in, walk the historic district and take the ropeway or chairlift up to Matsuyama Castle (entrance ~£4), one of Japan's 12 original feudal castles. Afterward, stroll past the famous 3,000-year-old Dogo Onsen bathhouse — entrance to the inner bath starts at £5 and is well worth it. Visit Ishiteji Temple, one of the 88 Shikoku pilgrimage temples.

🚌Bus + JR train Imabari to Matsuyama: ~£15

🛏Hotel Vista Matsuyama or J-Hoppers Matsuyama Guesthouse (~£25-40/night)

• →Bus from Imabari to Imabari Station, then JR train to Matsuyama (~£15)
• →Visit Matsuyama Castle via ropeway (entrance ~£4)
• →Explore historic Dogo Onsen — soak in Japan's oldest hot spring (~£5 entry)
• →Visit Ishiteji Temple — free entry

Leave your large luggage at the hotel and take the JR Yodo Line train to Uchiko (~1 hour, ~£5 each way). Wander the beautifully preserved Yokaichi Old Town, lined with Edo-period merchant houses. Visit the Kamihaga Residence (~£3 entry), a magnificent former wax merchant's house, and a nearby seventh-generation family-run candle shop. In the afternoon, visit a traditional washi paper factory and try a hands-on gilding (haku-oshi) workshop — book directly at Omori Washi (~£8 workshop). Return to Matsuyama by train and spend the evening exploring the city.

🚌JR train Matsuyama ↔ Uchiko return: ~£10

🛏Hotel Vista Matsuyama or J-Hoppers Matsuyama Guesthouse (second night, ~£25-40/night)

• →JR train Matsuyama to Uchiko (~1hr, ~£5 each way)
• →Walk Yokaichi Old Town — free
• →Visit Kamihaga Residence (~£3)
• →Seventh-generation candle shop visit — free
• →Washi paper factory tour and haku-oshi gilding workshop (~£8)

Start early — take the JR Yodo Line train (~45 min, ~£5) then a short bus to Yawatahama Port (~10 min, ~£1). Board the Uwajima Unyu ferry to Beppu (~3 hours, ~£20 for standard class). Arriving in Beppu, one of Japan's most famous hot spring towns, check into your guesthouse. The evening is yours — explore the area around Beppu Station, try karaoke (~£5/hour), or visit a local neighbourhood onsen (entry typically £2-4). Beppu has over 2,000 hot spring sources — don't miss them.

🚌Train + bus + ferry: ~£26 total

🛏Fujiya Hotel Beppu or Beppu Hostel Remix (~£20-35/night)

• →JR train Matsuyama to Yawatahama (~45 min, ~£5)
• →Bus to Yawatahama Port (~£1)
• →Uwajima Unyu ferry Yawatahama to Beppu (~3hrs, ~£20)
• →Explore Beppu Station area, karaoke or neighbourhood onsen in the evening

Pick up a bento box breakfast from a convenience store (7-Eleven or FamilyMart, ~£3-4) and take the Kamenoi Bus from Beppu to Yufuin (~40 min, ~£5). From Yufuin town, it's a short walk to the Yufu tozanguchi trailhead. The 9.5km loop hike up Mount Yufu (1,584m) takes approximately 4-5 hours — follow well-marked packed-dirt trails with some steep sections. The summit rewards with panoramic views over Yufuin valley and the Seto Inland Sea. Return to Beppu by bus and reward yourself with a long soak in one of Beppu's famous neighbourhood onsen (~£2-4).

🚌Kamenoi Bus Beppu ↔ Yufuin return: ~£10

🛏Fujiya Hotel Beppu or Beppu Hostel Remix (second night, ~£20-35/night)

• →Kamenoi Bus from Beppu to Yufuin (~40 min, ~£5)
• →Hike the 9.5km Mount Yufu loop from Yufu tozanguchi (~4-5 hours)
• →Return bus to Beppu (~£5)
• →Evening soak in a Beppu neighbourhood onsen (~£2-4)

Start the morning with a 'jigoku mushi' (hell steam) cooking experience at Jigoku Mushi Kobo in Kannawa (~£8-12, book directly or via GetYourGuide). This centuries-old technique uses natural volcanic steam to cook fresh vegetables, seafood and eggs — and you get to eat what you make! Afterward, take the JR Nippo Main Line and Hōhi Main Line train from Beppu to Aso Station (~3hr 10min, ~£18). Leave large luggage at hotel storage and pack an overnight bag for your two nights at Aso. Check into your guesthouse near Mount Aso and enjoy dinner with views of the volcanic caldera.

🚌JR Nippo/Hōhi Main Line Beppu to Aso: ~£18

🛏Kamenoi Hotel Aso, Aso no Shiro Guesthouse or Aso Base Backpackers (~£25-40/night)

• →Jigoku mushi (hell steam) cooking class at Jigoku Mushi Kobo (~£8-12)
• →JR train Beppu to Aso Station (~3hr 10min, ~£18)
• →Check in to Aso guesthouse — explore the caldera views at dusk

Spend a full day hiking in spectacular Aso-Kuju National Park, home to one of the world's largest volcanic calderas. Start with the beginner-friendly Mt. Kishima-dake trail (3km round-trip, ~1-1.5 hours) for a gentle volcanic summit. Then tackle Mt. Eboshi-dake (4km round-trip, ~2 hours) for sweeping caldera panoramas. Check the Aso Volcano Museum website or notice boards for current access conditions before heading out — volcanic activity can close trails with little notice. If trails are closed, alternatives include Kurokawa Onsen village (~£5 bus + £8 onsen day pass) or Taketa Castle ruins (free entry). Return to the guesthouse for a included-style hearty dinner at a local restaurant.

🚌Local bus to trailheads from Aso Station: ~£5 return

🛏Kamenoi Hotel Aso, Aso no Shiro Guesthouse or Aso Base Backpackers (second night, ~£25-40/night)

• →Hike Mt. Kishima-dake (3km round trip, ~1hr 30min) — free entry
• →Hike Mt. Eboshi-dake (4km round trip, ~2hrs) — free entry
• →Check Aso Volcano Museum live volcanic alert board before hiking
• →Alternative: Day trip to Kurokawa Onsen village if park is closed

The Exodus tour uses a private minivan for this leg; independently, take the JR Hōhi Main Line back toward Hakata then switch to the Matsuura Railway to Arita (~4 hours total with changes, ~£25). Alternatively, book a shared day-trip shuttle or hire a taxi for the Aso-to-Arita stretch (~£30-40 split between travel companions). In Arita, wander the narrow streets lined with porcelain shops and workshops — the birthplace of Japanese porcelain. Browse the galleries and pick up a handmade ceramic souvenir. Continue by JR Sasebo Line and Nagasaki Main Line to Nagasaki (~1hr from Arita, ~£8). On arrival, visit the Atomic Bomb Museum & Peace Park (museum entry ~£5) — a sobering and essential stop.

🚌JR trains Aso → Arita → Nagasaki: ~£33 total

🛏Hotel Monterey Nagasaki or Nagasaki Deer Hostel (~£25-40/night)

• →JR trains from Aso to Arita with changes (~4hrs, ~£25 total)
• →Explore Arita's porcelain shops and galleries — free to browse
• →JR train Arita to Nagasaki (~1hr, ~£8)
• →Atomic Bomb Museum & Nagasaki Peace Park (museum ~£5, park free)

Spend a full day discovering Nagasaki's rich, layered history — a city that blends Japanese, Chinese, Dutch and Portuguese influences unlike anywhere else in Japan. Start at Glover Garden (entry ~£4), an open-air hillside park displaying the grand mansions of former foreign residents. Take the scenic slope tram down to Dejima (~£3 entry), the reconstructed Dutch trading post island that was Japan's only window to the world during its period of isolation. Ride Nagasaki's historic tram network (~£1.30 per journey or £3.50 all-day pass) to get around. In the evening, head to Shinchi Chinatown — Japan's oldest — for dinner at one of its many restaurants (budget £8-12).

🚌Nagasaki tram all-day pass: ~£3.50

🛏Hotel Monterey Nagasaki or Nagasaki Deer Hostel (second night, ~£25-40/night)

• →Glover Garden open-air museum (entry ~£4)
• →Dejima reconstructed Dutch trading post (~£3 entry)
• →Ride Nagasaki's historic tram network (~£3.50 all-day pass)
• →Dinner in Shinchi Chinatown — Japan's oldest Chinatown (~£8-12)

Take the Nagasaki-Fukuoka highway express bus from Nagasaki Bus Terminal (~2hr 25min, ~£12) — a comfortable and affordable option used by locals. Arrive at Hakata Bus Terminal in central Fukuoka. The largest city in Kyushu, Fukuoka is the birthplace of tonkotsu ramen and has a fantastic food scene. Drop your bags at the hotel and spend the afternoon exploring Ohori Park (free) — a peaceful green space with a central lake and traditional teahouse. Visit Tochoji Temple (free) to see the enormous 10-metre wooden seated Buddha. In the evening, head to a Fukuoka yatai — the famous open-air food stalls along the Naka River — for a bowl of tonkotsu ramen (~£6-8).

🚌Nagasaki → Fukuoka highway bus: ~£12

🛏Hotel Monterey Fukuoka, Khaosan Fukuoka Hostel or similar (~£25-40/night)

• →Highway express bus Nagasaki to Fukuoka Hakata (~2hr 25min, ~£12)
• →Ohori Park — peaceful walk around the lake (free)
• →Tochoji Temple and giant wooden Buddha (free)
• →Dinner at a Fukuoka yatai food stall — tonkotsu ramen (~£6-8)

Today is departure day. Fukuoka Airport (FUK) is remarkably central — just two stops on the Fukuoka City Subway from Hakata Station (~10 min, ~£1.50). Enjoy a final breakfast near your hostel or grab one last bowl of Hakata ramen before heading to the airport. If your flight is late, Fukuoka's Canal City shopping and entertainment complex is a short walk from Hakata Station and worth a final wander. Want more time in Fukuoka? It's easy to self-extend — consider a day trip to Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine (~20 min by train, £2.50 return).

🚌Fukuoka City Subway to airport: ~£1.50

🛏N/A — departure day

• →Final breakfast at a local café or Hakata ramen restaurant
• →Fukuoka City Subway to Fukuoka Airport (~10 min, ~£1.50)
• →Optional: Last-minute visit to Canal City or Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine