Highlights of East Asia: Japan, South Korea & China — Self-Launched

Fly into Kansai (KIX) and take the Nankai Airport Express to Namba (~920 JPY / £5, 45 mins). Check into a hostel in Namba or Shinsaibashi. Spend the evening eating your way through Dōtonbori — takoyaki, kushikatsu, okonomiyaki — and pick up an IC card (ICOCA/Suica) for the metros. Activate your 7-day Japan Rail Pass tomorrow morning.

🚌Nankai Airport Express KIX→Namba ~£5

🛏Hostel dorm, Namba/Shinsaibashi (~£20)

• →Dōtonbori street food crawl
• →Buy IC transit card
• →Activate Japan Rail Pass

Ride the Nankai Kōya Line to Gokurakubashi then the funicular up to Kōyasan (~1.5–2 hrs, covered/cheap with pass or ~1,500 JPY). This is the heart of Shingon Buddhism: wander Okunoin cemetery through towering cedars, then sleep in a shukubō temple lodging. Book direct or via a temple-stay aggregator. Dinner is shojin ryori — Buddhist vegetarian cuisine — and most temples offer the morning prayer ceremony.

🚌Nankai line + cable car to Kōyasan ~£12

🛏Temple lodging, shared facilities (~£45 incl. dinner & breakfast)

• →Okunoin cemetery walk
• →Temple lodging (shukubō)
• →Shojin ryori dinner
• →Optional morning prayer

Attend the monks' morning prayer and a traditional breakfast, then travel to Hiroshima — Kōyasan back down to Hashimoto, then shinkansen via Shin-Osaka (~4.5 hrs total). Afternoon at the Peace Memorial Park and Museum (museum ~200 JPY). Evening in the Okonomimura food building for Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki.

🚌Local lines + Shinkansen (JR Pass), ~£0 with pass

🛏Hostel or budget hotel near Hiroshima Station (~£25)

• →Morning prayer ceremony
• →Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park & Museum
• →Okonomimura food hall

Take the JR Sanyō line to Miyajimaguchi (25 mins, covered by pass) then the JR ferry across to Miyajima (~10 mins, free with pass). See the floating torii gate at Itsukushima Shrine, and if you want the summit, ride the ropeway or hike up Mt Misen (500m, ~1.5 hrs up) for Seto Inland Sea views. Stay for the tide change and sunset, then ferry back.

🚌JR Sanyō line + JR ferry (JR Pass covers both)

🛏Same hostel/hotel, Hiroshima (~£25)

• →Itsukushima Shrine & floating torii
• →Mt Misen hike or ropeway (~1,000–1,840 JPY)
• →Miyajima oysters and momiji manju

Shinkansen to Kyoto (~1.5 hrs with pass). Drop bags at your hostel near Kyoto Station or Kawaramachi. Visit Nijo Castle and its gardens (~1,300 JPY; the nightingale floors are the highlight). In the evening walk Gion's Hanamikoji and Shirakawa lanes — free, just be respectful of private ochaya — and grab dinner in Pontocho alley.

🚌Shinkansen Hiroshima→Kyoto (JR Pass), city bus ~£1.5

🛏Hostel dorm, central Kyoto (~£25)

• →Nijo Castle & gardens
• →Gion district evening walk
• →Pontocho alley dinner

Go early to Fushimi Inari Taisha (free, JR line two stops from Kyoto Station with your pass) — climb past the crowds to the Yotsutsuji viewpoint. Afterwards pick one more temple: Ryoan-ji's zen rock garden (~500 JPY), the Philosopher's Path, or Nishiki Market for lunch. Kyoto bus day pass ~700 JPY.

🚌Kyoto city bus day pass ~£4

🛏Same hostel, Kyoto (~£25)

• →Fushimi Inari torii hike (free)
• →Nishiki Market lunch
• →Ryoan-ji zen garden (~500 JPY)

Shinkansen to Odawara (Tokaido line, JR Pass covers it) then the Hakone Tozan line/bus up to Lake Ashino-ko. Take the pirate ship sightseeing boat across the lake (~1,200–2,000 JPY) for Mt Fuji views on a clear day. Check into a budget ryokan or minshuku with a private onsen and order a kaiseki dinner — this is the splurge night.

🚌Shinkansen to Odawara + Hakone Tozan + buses ~£12

🛏Minshuku/ryokan, Japanese-style room (~£70 incl. dinner)

• →Lake Ashi sightseeing boat
• →Mt Fuji viewpoints (Hakone Shrine torii)
• →Ryokan kaiseki dinner & onsen

Train down to Odawara and shinkansen to Tokyo (~1 hr). Check into a hostel in Asakusa or Shinjuku. Free afternoon for shopping and wandering: Meiji Jingu and Harajuku, Ueno Park, or the free Imperial Palace East Gardens. Evening in a Shinjuku izakaya alley like Omoide Yokocho.

🚌Hakone→Tokyo ~£10 (partly JR Pass)

🛏Hostel dorm, Tokyo (~£28)

• →Meiji Jingu (free)
• →Harajuku & Shibuya crossing
• →Omoide Yokocho izakaya evening

A wholly free day on your own terms. Options: Sensō-ji in Asakusa at dawn, the free Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building observation deck, the Tokyo National Museum (~1,000 JPY), or a day trip to Nikko with the JR Pass. Cheap and excellent: stand-up sushi at a market counter, curry, or konbini lunch.

🚌Tokyo metro day pass ~£5

🛏Same hostel, Tokyo (~£28)

• →Sensō-ji temple
• →Tokyo National Museum (~1,000 JPY)
• →Free observation deck, Shinjuku

Quick flight from Narita or Haneda to Incheon/Gimpo — book 4–8 weeks out on a low-cost carrier (Jeju Air, Peach, Air Seoul) for £60–110 one way. Take the AREX express or all-stop train into central Seoul (~4,500–9,500 KRW). Settle into a hostel in Insadong or Hongdae and eat cheap Korean BBQ or bindaetteok in a market.

🚌Flight Tokyo→Seoul ~£85 + AREX ~£5

🛏Hostel dorm, Seoul (~£18)

• →AREX train into Seoul
• →Gwangjang Market dinner

Self-guided palace day: Gyeongbokgung (~3,000 KRW, and free if you wear hanbok — rentals from ~15,000 KRW), the National Folk Museum, Jogyesa Temple, Bukchon Hanok Village and Insadong's tea shops. Join a free walking tour (tip-based) if you want a local voice. Evening: N Seoul Tower or the free Banpo Bridge Rainbow Fountain show.

🚌T-money card, metro ~£4

🛏Same hostel, Seoul (~£18)

• →Gyeongbokgung Palace
• →National Folk Museum
• →Bukchon Hanok Village & Insadong
• →Optional hanbok rental (~£9)

Book a half-day DMZ tour through Klook or GetYourGuide (~£40–55) — tours must go with an authorised operator. You'll see the Freedom Bridge, Dora Observatory, the Third Tunnel and Dorasan Station. Note: JSA/Panmunjom access is separately bookable and often suspended — check current availability. Afternoon back in Seoul for Gwangjang Market or the free War Memorial of Korea.

🚌Tour coach included; metro ~£4

🛏Same hostel, Seoul (~£18)

• →Guided DMZ half-day tour (~£45)
• →War Memorial of Korea (free)

Take the KTX from Seoul Station to Singyeongju (~2 hrs, ~50,000 KRW) or the cheaper intercity bus (~4 hrs, ~25,000 KRW). Base yourself in Gyeongju's hanok/guesthouse area. Hire a bicycle (~5,000 KRW/day) to loop Daereungwon tomb complex (~3,000 KRW), Cheomseongdae observatory (free) and Anapji Pond (~3,000 KRW) — Anapji is best lit up after dark.

🚌KTX Seoul→Singyeongju ~£28

🛏Guesthouse/hanok stay, Gyeongju (~£20)

• →KTX to Gyeongju
• →Daereungwon tomb complex
• →Anapji Pond at night
• →Bike rental

Bus out to Bulguksa (~1,500–6,000 KRW, UNESCO temple with seven national treasures) and if you have legs for it hike up to Seokguram Grotto (~4,000 KRW). In the afternoon take a local bus to Yangdong Folk Village (small entry fee) for a look at preserved Joseon-era clan houses in the hills. Eat Gyeongju's famous ssambap for dinner.

🚌Local buses ~£5

🛏Same guesthouse, Gyeongju (~£20)

• →Bulguksa Temple
• →Seokguram Grotto hike
• →Yangdong Folk Village

Cheap intercity bus or SRT down to Busan (~1–1.5 hrs). Head out to Haedong Yonggungsa, the seaside temple built on the rocks (free, bus ~1,500 KRW), then explore Gamcheon Culture Village and Jagalchi fish market. Evening on Gwangalli beach with the Diamond Bridge lit up.

🚌Bus/SRT Gyeongju→Busan ~£8 + city metro ~£4

🛏Hostel dorm, Busan (~£18)

• →Haedong Yonggungsa Temple
• →Gamcheon Culture Village
• →Jagalchi fish market
• →Gwangalli beach evening

Spend the night at a Korean temple (Beomeosa or a similar templestay programme bookable direct via templestay.com, ~£50–70 including dinner, breakfast and the 108 bows / morning chanting). Daytime is free for Busan Tower or a Haeundae beach walk before you check in mid-afternoon.

🚌Metro/bus ~£4

🛏Temple stay, multi-share (~£55 incl. meals)

• →Temple stay programme (templestay.com)
• →Beomeosa Temple grounds
• →Optional Busan Tower (~12,000 KRW)

Fly Busan (PUS) to Beijing (PEK/PKX) — book ahead on Air China, Korean Air budget partner or China Eastern for £90–140 one way, ~2.5 hrs. Get a Chinese SIM/eSIM and set up Alipay or WeChat Pay linked to your card before you land — cash is fine but mobile pay is near-universal. Evening: hutongs and Peking duck in a modest local restaurant.

🚌Flight ~£110 + Airport Express ~£3

🛏Hostel/hutong guesthouse, Beijing (~£20)

• →Flight to Beijing
• →Set up Alipay/WeChat Pay
• →Hutong evening wander

Take the 916 express bus from Dongzhimen to Huairou (~12 CNY) then a local minibus/taxi to Mutianyu (~30 CNY), or book a shared shuttle on Klook (~£20). Entry is ~40 CNY; cable car or toboggan down ~100–140 CNY each. It's the best-restored, least-crowded major section — walk between towers for ridge views. Back in Beijing, hit the Drum and Bell Towers (~30 CNY).

🚌Public bus + local minibus ~£5, or shared shuttle ~£20

🛏Same hostel, Beijing (~£20)

• →Mutianyu Great Wall hike (entry ~£4.5)
• →Cable car or toboggan (~£13)
• →Drum and Bell Towers

Forbidden City tickets must be booked online in advance with your passport (60 CNY peak) — do this the day they open. Walk through from Tiananmen Square in the morning, which takes 3–4 hrs. Afternoon options: Jingshan Park for the palace panorama (~2 CNY), the Temple of Heaven (~35 CNY), or a Peking duck dinner.

🚌Metro ~£2.5

🛏Same hostel, Beijing (~£20)

• →Tiananmen Square
• →Forbidden City (60 CNY, book ahead)
• →Jingshan Park viewpoint
• →Temple of Heaven

Take the high-speed train Beijing West to Xi'an North (~4.5 hrs, ~515 CNY / £58). Drop bags, then bus 306/游5 from Xi'an railway station to the Terracotta Warriors (~7 CNY, entry 120 CNY). Skip the audio guide and hire a licensed local guide at the gate for ~100 CNY split between a few people, or download a good podcast tour. Evening in the Muslim Quarter for roujiamo and biangbiang noodles.

🚌High-speed train ~£58 + local bus ~£1

🛏Hostel, Xi'an old town (~£18)

• →Terracotta Warriors (120 CNY)
• →Local guide at the pits (~£11 split)
• →Muslim Quarter street food

Rent a bike on top of the Ming city wall (~45 CNY for 2 hrs, entry 54 CNY) and ride the 14km loop — easily the best way to see the old city grid. Then visit the Big Wild Goose Pagoda area and the Great Mosque, and eat your way through the Muslim Quarter again. Overnight train or early flight to Shanghai tonight/tomorrow.

🚌Bike rental + metro ~£5

🛏Hostel, Xi'an (~£18)

• →Cycle the city walls (~£11)
• →Big Wild Goose Pagoda
• →Great Mosque & Muslim Quarter

High-speed train Xi'an North to Suzhou North (~6 hrs, ~600 CNY) — or fly if you find a cheap fare. Suzhou is China's canal city: check into a guesthouse near Pingjiang Road. Afternoon wander the canals and visit the Master of the Nets Garden (or Humble Administrator's Garden) — gardens ~40–80 CNY. Evening stroll Pingjiang Road's lantern-lit lanes.

🚌High-speed train ~£68

🛏Guesthouse, Suzhou old town (~£20)

• →Master of the Nets Garden
• →Pingjiang Road canal walk

Short high-speed hop to Shanghai (~30 mins, ~40 CNY). Check into a hostel near the Bund or in the French Concession. Walk the Bund waterfront and cross to Lujiazui for the skyline view (free), wander the former French Concession's plane-tree streets, and see Yu Garden (~40 CNY). Book a Chinese acrobatics show (Shanghai Circus World, ~£15–35) or the ERA 2 performance for the evening.

🚌Train Suzhou→Shanghai ~£5 + metro ~£3

🛏Hostel dorm, Shanghai (~£22)

• →The Bund waterfront walk
• →Yu Garden (~40 CNY)
• →French Concession wander
• →Chinese acrobatics show (~£20)

Last morning: the Shanghai Museum (free, book ahead) or a coffee in Tianzifang, and pick up any last souvenirs. Take Metro Line 2 or the Maglev (~50 CNY) to Pudong airport for your flight home.

🚌Metro Line 2 ~£1 or Maglev ~£5.5

🛏—

• →Shanghai Museum (free)
• →Tianzifang lanes
• →Maglev to Pudong Airport