The Ultimate Adventure Through Japan: Self-Launched Edition

Arrive at Haneda (HND) or Narita (NRT) and make your own way to your hostel in central Tokyo — the Keikyu Line from Haneda (approx £3-4) or the Narita Express/Skyliner (approx £15-20) are the cheapest options. Settle in, then head out on foot to explore the neighbourhood: winding backstreets, cosy izakayas and the electric energy that only Tokyo delivers. Grab a first Japanese meal — a bowl of ramen or some yakitori — and get an early night. Unlike the guided trip, extra pre-days in Tokyo are entirely your call; a couple of days buffer is strongly recommended to shake off jet lag.

🚌Airport train/bus to city (~£3-20 depending on airport)

🛏Budget hostel or capsule hotel in Shinjuku/Asakusa (dorm bed ~£20-28/night)

• →Self-guided neighbourhood walk
• →Izakaya dinner

Take a highway bus from Shinjuku's Busta terminal to Kawaguchiko (approx 2 hrs, ~£10-12 — book online or at the terminal). On arrival, join a hands-on soba-making class (bookable locally or via Klook/GetYourGuide, ~£20-25) and eat your own noodles for lunch. Then hike up Mount Arakura to the Chureito Pagoda for the postcard view of Mount Fuji framed by the five-storey pagoda. Spend the evening easing into lakeside pace — perhaps a soak in a local onsen (public baths from ~£3-5).

🚌Highway bus Tokyo-Kawaguchiko (~£10-12)

🛏Lakeside guesthouse or hostel in Kawaguchiko (dorm/private from ~£20-35)

• →Soba-making class
• →Mount Arakura hike to Chureito Pagoda
• →Onsen soak

Start early to catch the lake at its glassiest. Rent a kayak for a 2-hour paddle on Lake Kawaguchiko (~£20-30 rental/guided option via local operators), with Mount Fuji rising above the far shore on a clear day. Then hire a bike (~£10-15/day) for a relaxed 20-22km half-loop around the lake, dipping into regional parks. Finish the day with a restorative onsen soak. All equipment is rentable directly in Kawaguchiko — no group booking needed.

🚌Local buses/walking around the lake

🛏Lakeside guesthouse or hostel in Kawaguchiko (~£20-35)

• →Lake kayaking
• →Cycling the lake loop
• →Onsen

Travel to Kyoto via the Shinkansen — either from Mishima or by bus back to Tokyo and out on the Tokaido Shinkansen (total journey approx 4 hrs, ~£75-90 with a reserved seat; a Japan Rail Pass can work out cheaper if you plan more long rides). Grab a bento for the train like the locals. In the early afternoon, explore Fushimi Inari Taisha and hike the network of trails through thousands of vermilion torii gates (free, open 24 hrs — go late afternoon to dodge crowds). As dusk falls, walk through Gion's historic geisha district.

🚌Shinkansen + local trains (~£75-90)

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in Kyoto (dorm from ~£18-28)

• →Fushimi Inari hike
• →Gion evening walk

Hire a bicycle (~£8-12/day) and ride along the Kamogawa River up to Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion), a quintessential Zen temple surrounded by moss gardens (entry ~£3). Continue along the Philosopher's Path, popping into smaller temples and craft shops. The afternoon is yours — wander backstreet cafés, browse local crafts, or tick off a few more shrines at your own pace.

🚌Bicycle hire

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in Kyoto (~£18-28)

• →Bike ride along Kamogawa River
• →Ginkaku-ji & Philosopher's Path

Catch a bus from Kyoto Station to the mountain hamlet of Takao (~£3) and hike the riverside trail downstream through mountains and valleys to Hozukyo (3 hrs, 8km), passing thousand-year-old temples, a clear watercourse and a waterfall. From Hozukyo station, hop the JR train back into the city, or stop at Arashiyama to explore the famous bamboo grove (free) and the Iwatayama monkey park (~£4).

🚌Local bus + JR train (~£5)

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in Kyoto (~£18-28)

• →Takao-Hozukyo gorge hike
• →Arashiyama bamboo grove

Leave Kyoto after breakfast and take local trains to Koyasan (approx 2.5-3 hrs, ~£12-15 via Nankai line). Trek part of the Koya-san Choishi Michi pilgrimage trail, following the stone signposts (choishi) placed to guide the original pilgrims. Explore the serene Okunoin Cemetery, the final resting place of many of Japan's most important historical figures. Tonight, stay in a temple lodging (shukubo) — bookable directly with individual temples or via booking platforms, ~£70-110 per person including vegetarian shojin ryori dinner and breakfast.

🚌Local trains from Kyoto to Koyasan (~£12-15)

🛏Temple lodging (shukubo) in Koyasan (~£70-110 incl. meals)

• →Choishi Michi pilgrimage trail
• →Okunoin Cemetery walk
• →Temple stay

Join the monks for early morning prayers (usually free for guests), then travel south by local bus and train through the mountains of the Kii Peninsula toward Kawayu Onsen (~2.5-3 hrs, ~£15-20 via JR to Shingu then local bus). En route, stop at Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three grand Shinto shrines at the heart of the Kumano Kodo, and stand beneath the giant Oyunohara torii gate. In Kawayu, dig your own riverside onsen bath in the gravel bed of the Oto River — free and utterly unique.

🚌Local bus/train (~£15-20)

🛏Riverside ryokan or guesthouse in Kawayu Onsen (~£45-70 incl. meals)

• →Kumano Hongu Taisha
• →Oyunohara torii
• →Riverside onsen

A big day on the UNESCO-listed Nakahechi section of the Kumano Kodo (6 hrs, 15km, ~680m up/down). Catch the early bus to the trailhead, then ascend through cedar and cypress forest over Sakura-toge Pass to Hyakken-gura Peak for sweeping views, before dropping into the riverside village of Koguchi. Bags can often be forwarded via the Kumano Kodo luggage-transfer service (book ahead). Sleep in a rustic minshuku or guesthouse — reserve well in advance as Koguchi has very limited beds.

🚌Local bus to trailhead

🛏Minshuku/guesthouse in Koguchi (~£40-60 incl. meals)

• →Kumano Kodo Nakahechi hike
• →Sakura-toge Pass
• →Hyakken-gura Peak

The most challenging day: from Koguchi climb the famous Dogiri-zaka ('body-breaking slope'), gaining ~800m through roots, rocks and stone steps, then undulate past Funami-toge Pass (Pacific views on a clear day) and descend to Nachisan Sanctuary. See the Seiganto-ji Pagoda beside Nachi Falls, Japan's tallest waterfall at 133m. A short bus then brings you down to Kii Katsuura, where you can pull on a yukata and head for the onsen overlooking the Pacific. Book accommodation early — Kii Katsuura fills up.

🚌Local bus to Kii Katsuura (~£3-5)

🛏Guesthouse or onsen hotel in Kii Katsuura (~£45-70 incl. dinner)

• →Kumano Kodo hike via Dogiri-zaka
• →Nachi Taisha & Nachi Falls
• →Onsen

Start at Katsuura's lively fish market — one of Japan's most important tuna ports — before boarding the train to Osaka (approx 4-5 hrs, ~£25-35 via JR limited express/bus combo; the JR pass covers most of it). An optional station bento sets you up nicely. By evening you're in one of Asia's great food cities: head straight to Dotonbori for takoyaki, okonomiyaki and neon, and a farewell dinner of street food.

🚌Train Kii Katsuura-Osaka (~£25-35)

🛏Hostel or budget hotel in Osaka (dorm from ~£18-28)

• →Katsuura fish market
• →Dotonbori street food
• →Osaka nightlife

Check out after breakfast. Store luggage at your accommodation or a station locker if your flight is later, and if time allows explore a little more of Osaka. Fly home from Kansai Airport (KIX) — reachable by Nankai/NJR train from Namba or Tennoji in about an hour for ~£8-9 — or take the Shinkansen back to Tokyo (~2.5 hrs, ~£75) to fly out from there.

🚌Train to Kansai Airport (~£8-9)

🛏N/A (departure day)

• →Departure