The Ultimate Self-Launched Adventure Through Japan

Arrive at Haneda (HND) or Narita (NRT) airport and make your way to Shinjuku — the beating heart of Tokyo. From Haneda, take the Tokyo Monorail or Keikyu Line to Shinjuku (~£4-6). From Narita, the Narita Express (N'EX) is the most convenient option (~£20). Check into your hostel in Shinjuku and spend the evening exploring the narrow alleys of Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane) and the izakayas of Kabukicho. Grab your first Japanese meal — yakitori skewers and cold Asahi — for under £10. Arriving a day or two early to beat jet lag is strongly recommended.

🚌Tokyo Monorail + JR from Haneda (~£5) or Narita Express from Narita (~£20)

🛏Khaosan Tokyo Origami Hostel or similar in Shinjuku — budget dorm from ~£20/night, private twin ~£35-45/night

• →Arrive and transfer independently to Shinjuku via Tokyo Monorail/Keikyu Line from Haneda (~£5) or N'EX from Narita (~£20)
• →Explore Shinjuku's neon-lit alleys, Kabukicho and Omoide Yokocho
• →Dinner at a local izakaya — budget ~£8-12 for food and a drink

After breakfast, take the JR Chuo Line from Shinjuku to Otsuki, then the Fujikyu Railway to Fujiyoshida — total journey around 2-2.5 hours (~£15-18). From there, local buses run to Chureito Pagoda at the base of Mount Arakura. Climb the 400 steps for the iconic view of Mount Fuji framed by the pagoda. Then catch a bus to Oshino Hakkai to wander the traditional farmhouses and crystal-clear Fuji-fed springs. Continue by bus to Lake Yamanakako and check into a minshuku-style guesthouse for a home-cooked dinner.

🚌JR Chuo Line + Fujikyu Railway from Shinjuku (~£16), local buses (~£3-5)

🛏Minshuku Tansou or similar guesthouse near Lake Yamanakako — ~£30-45/night including dinner and breakfast

• →Train from Shinjuku to Fujiyoshida via Fujikyu Railway (~£16)
• →Local bus to Chureito Pagoda — climb 400 steps for the iconic Fuji viewpoint (free entry to pagoda area)
• →Visit Oshino Hakkai historic village and springs (entry ~£1)
• →Check into minshuku guesthouse near Lake Yamanakako

A glorious day on and around Lake Yamanakako — the largest of the Fuji Five Lakes. Start with an onigiri-making lesson at your guesthouse, then rent a bike from a local shop to cruise the shoreline trails (hire ~£8-12 for half a day). Head out onto the lake for a guided kayaking session bookable via GetYourGuide or directly with local outfitters (~£20-25 for 2 hours). End the day with a soak at a local onsen — Yamanakako no Yu is a great option with Fuji views (~£8 entry).

🚌Local bike hire and walking — minimal transport cost

🛏Minshuku guesthouse near Lake Yamanakako (same as Day 2) — ~£30-45/night

• →Onigiri (rice ball) making lesson at guesthouse — often included or ~£5-10
• →Bike rental along Lake Yamanakako shoreline trails (~£10 for half day)
• →Kayaking on Lake Yamanakako — book via GetYourGuide or local operator (~£22)
• →Onsen soak at Yamanakako no Yu or similar (~£8)

Early start for the journey to Kyoto. Take the Fujikyu Railway back to Otsuki, then the JR Chuo Line to Shinjuku, and board the Tokaido Shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo or Shin-Yokohama to Kyoto — an unmissable experience (~£70-80 with a Japan Rail Pass or full-price ticket). Arrive in the early afternoon and head straight to Fushimi Inari Taisha. This iconic shrine and its thousands of vermillion torii gates are free to enter and the hillside trail network makes for a superb 2-3 hour hike. Explore at your own pace — the upper trails get far fewer visitors and offer great views over Kyoto.

🚌Fujikyu Railway + JR Chuo Line + Tokaido Shinkansen (~£80 total or JR Pass)

🛏K's House Kyoto or Piece Hostel Kyoto — dorm from ~£18/night, private twin ~£40-55/night

• →Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo/Shin-Yokohama to Kyoto (~£70-80, or included with JR Pass)
• →Self-guided hike at Fushimi Inari Taisha — thousands of torii gates winding up into the hills (free entry)
• →Evening explore of Kyoto's Gion district — watch for geisha

Rent a bicycle (Kyoto is famously bike-friendly, ~£8/day) and ride along the Kamogawa River north to Ginkaku-ji, the Silver Pavilion and its exquisite Zen gardens (~£10 entry). From there, follow the Philosopher's Path south — beautiful at any time of year, magical during cherry blossom season. Then tackle the short but steep hike up Mount Daimonji-yama for panoramic views over Kyoto (free, ~1.5 hours return). The afternoon is yours to explore independently — consider the Nishiki Market food street, Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion, ~£4), or more of Gion.

🚌Bicycle hire (~£8), local buses as needed (~£2-4)

🛏K's House Kyoto or Piece Hostel Kyoto — same as Day 4

• →Bike rental for the day (~£8)
• →Ginkaku-ji Silver Pavilion and Zen gardens (~£10 entry)
• →Walk the Philosopher's Path
• →Hike Mount Daimonji-yama for city panoramas (free)
• →Explore Gion historic district — spot geisha in the early evening

Take a local bus from central Kyoto to Takao (~45 mins, ~£3). From here, follow the well-marked trail downstream through a stunning mountain river valley, past the thousand-year-old Jingo-ji and Saimyo-ji temples (entry ~£4 each), a crystal-clear stream, and a beautiful waterfall — around 3-4 hours of hiking in total. The trail ends at Hozukyo, from where you can catch a train back, or jump off at Arashiyama to visit the famous bamboo grove and the monkey park at Iwatayama (~£5 entry). A relaxed, stunning day with almost no cost.

🚌Local bus to Takao (~£3), JR Sagano/San-in Line back from Hozukyo or Arashiyama (~£2)

🛏K's House Kyoto or Piece Hostel Kyoto — same as Day 4

• →Bus from Kyoto to Takao (~£3)
• →Self-guided hike from Takao through mountain river valley to Hozukyo (~3-4 hours, ~6 miles)
• →Visit Jingo-ji and Saimyo-ji temples en route (~£4 each)
• →Optional detour to Arashiyama bamboo grove (free) and Iwatayama Monkey Park (~£5)

Leave Kyoto after breakfast and travel to Koyasan via a combination of trains (~2.5 hours, ~£20-25 — the Nankai Koya Line with its famous cable car section is a journey in itself). Alight at Gokurakubashi and take the cable car up to the plateau. Hike part of the Choishi Michi pilgrimage trail, lined with stone markers placed centuries ago to guide pilgrims. Wander the extraordinary Okunoin Cemetery at dusk — the lantern-lit path through ancient cryptomeria trees to the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi is deeply atmospheric. Tonight, stay at a shukubo (temple lodging) — an unmissable cultural experience. Book direct via koyasan-shukubo.net (~£65-90/night including vegetarian shojin ryori dinner and breakfast).

🚌JR + Nankai Koya Line + cable car from Kyoto (~£22)

🛏Shukubo temple lodging, Koyasan — book via koyasan-shukubo.net — ~£65-90/night full board

• →Train from Kyoto to Hashimoto, then Nankai Koya Line + cable car to Koyasan (~£22)
• →Self-guided hike on the Koya-san Choishi Michi pilgrimage trail
• →Visit Okunoin Cemetery and the lantern-lit path to Kobo Daishi's mausoleum (free)
• →Overnight temple stay (shukubo) — includes vegetarian shojin ryori dinner and breakfast (~£65-90)

Rise early to join morning prayers with the monks at your temple (optional but highly recommended — usually around 6am). After your included temple breakfast, begin the journey to Yunomine Onsen — Japan's oldest onsen village, UNESCO-listed and tucked deep in the Kii Mountains (~4.5 hours by train and bus, ~£20-25). Check into a traditional ryokan, then explore the tiny village on foot, stopping at Tsuboyu — the world's only UNESCO-listed public bath, where you can soak in a small riverside hut (~£6). Visit Kumano Hongu Taisha grand shrine (free), one of the three sacred Kumano shrines.

🚌Nankai Koya Line + JR Kinokuni Line + local bus (~£22)

🛏Ryokan Adumaya or similar ryokan in Yunomine Onsen — ~£55-80/night including dinner and breakfast

• →Join morning prayers at the shukubo temple (optional, free)
• →Train and bus journey from Koyasan to Yunomine Onsen (~£22)
• →Walk around Yunomine Onsen village
• →Soak in Tsuboyu — UNESCO-listed riverside onsen (~£6, timed entry)
• →Visit Kumano Hongu Taisha grand shrine (free)

Today you walk one of only two UNESCO World Heritage-listed pilgrimage routes on the planet. Catch an early public bus from Yunomine Onsen toward the Nakahechi trailhead (~£3). The trail ascends gradually then undulates through pristine cedar and cypress forest, passing ancient stone choishi markers. Reach the viewpoint at Hyakken-gura Peak for sweeping mountain views, then descend steeply into the valley to the tiny riverside village of Koguchi (~8 miles, ~5.5 hours total). Pre-book your Kumano Kodo accommodation stamp-booklet (Kumano Travel, ~£5) to collect stamps at key waypoints. Dinner and bed at a local inn in Koguchi.

🚌Public bus from Yunomine Onsen (~£3)

🛏Koguchi no Yado or similar local inn — ~£55-70/night, meals typically included

• →Public bus from Yunomine Onsen to Nakahechi trailhead (~£3)
• →Hike Nakahechi section of Kumano Kodo to Koguchi (~8 miles, ~5.5 hours) — free to walk
• →Collect pilgrim stamps in your Kumano nokyo-cho stamp book (~£5 for the book)
• →Overnight at a local inn in Koguchi — full board typically included

Your biggest day on the trail — and one of the most rewarding in Japan. The ascent from Koguchi is famously steep (2+ hours of hard climbing). Push through the forest and ridge trails to the Funami-toge Pass, where on a clear day you'll see the Pacific Ocean and the fishing village of Katsuura far below. Descend to Nachi Kogen Park and continue down to Nachisan Sanctuary, where the stunning three-tiered Seiganto-ji Pagoda frames Nachi-no-Taki — Japan's tallest waterfall at 436 feet (~£3 entry to the viewing platform). Catch the afternoon public bus to Kii Katsuura to overnight.

🚌Walking + public bus to Kii Katsuura (~£3)

🛏Guesthouse or budget ryokan in Kii Katsuura — ~£35-50/night

• →Full-day hike from Koguchi to Nachi along Kumano Kodo (~9 miles, ~8 hours) — free to walk
• →Reach Funami-toge Pass with views to the Pacific Ocean
• →Visit Nachisan Sanctuary, Seiganto-ji Pagoda and Nachi-no-Taki waterfall (~£3 viewing platform entry)
• →Public bus from Nachi to Kii Katsuura (~£3)

Morning visit to the local tuna market in Kii Katsuura — a fascinating slice of coastal Japanese life. Then board the JR Kinokuni Line toward Osaka (~5 hours, ~£28-35 or JR Pass). Check into your Osaka hostel in the afternoon, then head out to Dotonbori — the city's extraordinary entertainment strip, ablaze with neon signs, street food, and the famous Glico Running Man billboard. Graze on takoyaki (octopus balls, ~£3), okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes, ~£5), and ramen for a true Osaka foodie farewell. The evening energy here is electric.

🚌JR Kinokuni Line from Kii Katsuura to Osaka (~£30)

🛏Osaka Guesthouse Midori or The JUNSA Hostel — dorm from ~£18/night, private twin ~£40-50/night

• →Visit local tuna fish market at Kii Katsuura in the morning (free)
• →JR Kinokuni Line train to Osaka (~£30, or JR Pass)
• →Self-guided walking tour of Dotonbori district — neon lights, street food, canal bridges
• →Street food grazing: takoyaki, okonomiyaki, ramen (~£10-15)
• →Optional: Kuromon Ichiba Market for food souvenirs

Check out after a final Japanese breakfast and store your luggage at the hotel if your flight is later. Spend any spare time in Osaka — Shinsekai district, Osaka Castle, or just more Dotonbori street food. To reach Kansai Airport (KIX), take the Nankai Rapi:t express train from Namba Station (~35 mins, ~£10) or JR Haruka from Tennoji/Shin-Osaka (~£14). Alternatively, hop on the Shinkansen back to Tokyo (2.5 hours, ~£70) to fly from Haneda or Narita.

🚌Nankai Rapi:t express to Kansai Airport from Namba (~£10)

🛏Check out — no accommodation cost

• →Final Japanese breakfast
• →Optional last explore: Osaka Castle (~£6 entry), Shinsekai district, or Kuromon Market
• →Transfer to Kansai Airport (KIX) via Nankai Rapi:t from Namba (~£10) or JR Haruka (~£14)