Walking Jordan's Spice Trails — Self-Launched

Land at Queen Alia International Airport and take the Airport Express bus or a shared shuttle to downtown Amman (roughly £5–7; a private taxi is £18–22). Check into a budget hotel or hostel in the Al-Weibdeh or downtown area. In the late afternoon wander the downtown souks around King Hussein Street, climb to the Roman Theatre (2 JOD), and eat falafel, hummus and knafeh at Hashem's or a street stall for under £5. Sort out your Jordan Pass online before arrival if you haven't — it covers your visa and Petra entry.

🚌Airport Express bus to Amman (~£6)

🛏Budget hotel/hostel, downtown Amman or Al-Weibdeh (~£20–25)

• →Downtown Amman souks
• →Roman Theatre (2 JOD)
• →Falafel and knafeh street-food crawl

Take an early JETT coach from Amman's Abdali station to Aqaba via Wadi Rum (about 4 hours, ~£9–11), or a minibus to Wadi Rum Visitor Centre and arrange a camp pick-up. Buy the Jordan Pass in advance so the Wadi Rum reserve fee is covered. Drop bags at a desert camp, then do an independent afternoon walk from Rum village towards the Seven Pillars of Wisdom and the Nabatean temple ruins (6–7 km, 2 hours) using a GPS app or a cheap local guide. Dinner and overnight in a basic Bedouin tent camp.

🚌JETT coach Amman–Wadi Rum (~£10)

🛏Bedouin desert camp, shared tent (Salim Camp equivalent) (~£18)

• →Seven Pillars of Wisdom viewpoint
• →Nabatean temple, Rum village
• →Self-guided 6.5 km desert walk
• →Sunset from camp

Hire a Bedouin guide through your camp for a 15–17 km day hike through northern Wadi Rum: Lawrence's Spring, Khazali and Anfashieh canyons with rock art, and the natural Burdah stone bridge (the scramble to the top is optional and needs a guide). Guide plus lunch typically costs £45–60 per person shared between 2–4 people. Back at camp for tea, dinner and a night under the stars.

🚌On foot; camp 4WD transfers included

🛏Bedouin desert camp, shared tent (~£18)

• →Full-day guided desert trek (~7 hrs)
• →Khazali Canyon rock inscriptions
• →Burdah stone bridge
• →Bedouin camp dinner and stargazing

Morning transfer to Petra's visitor centre by minibus or shared taxi (about 2 hours, £8–12 sharing). Drop bags at a cheap guesthouse in Wadi Musa, buy/mobilise your Jordan Pass (Petra 2-day ticket otherwise 55 JOD) and walk in through the Siq to the Treasury. Spend 4–5 hours on foot: Street of Facades, the Royal Tombs, and the Roman Theatre, finishing with the 800-step climb to the High Place of Sacrifice. Optional candlelit Petra tour (Petra by Night) most Mon/Wed/Thu evenings, ~17 JOD — book direct at the visitor centre.

🚌Shared minibus/taxi Wadi Rum–Petra (~£10)

🛏Budget guesthouse, Wadi Musa (~£20)

• →Siq gorge walk
• →The Treasury (Al-Khazneh)
• →Royal Tombs
• →Roman Theatre
• →Optional Petra by Night (~£19)

Second full Petra day: start early to beat the heat and walk the 800 steps to Ad-Deir (the Monastery) — about 2 hours up, with the best views from the ridge behind. On the way back loop via the Lion Monument, the Byzantine Church with its mosaics, Al-Habes Castle, and the Nabatean Temple of the Winged Lions. Around 18 km of walking with significant ascent — carry 3 litres of water and start by 7am.

🚌Walk from guesthouse to visitor centre (or 3 JOD taxi)

🛏Budget guesthouse, Wadi Musa (~£20)

• →Ad-Deir (Monastery) hike
• →Byzantine Church mosaics
• →Al-Habes Castle viewpoint
• →Nabatean Temple

Walk the Siq al-Barid canyon route to Little Petra (3 km, flat, 45 min, free entry) — one of the quietest, most atmospheric Nabatean sites. Then take a bus or shared taxi to Kerak (2 hours, ~£6) and explore the Crusader castle (2 JOD with Jordan Pass). Continue to Madaba by minibus from the Karak bus station (£4–5), overnight in a small hotel near St George's Church and see the Madaba Map mosaic (1 JOD).

🚌Local bus Wadi Musa–Kerak (~£6), Kerak–Madaba minibus (~£5)

🛏Small hotel/guesthouse, Madaba (~£22)

• →Little Petra via Siq al-Barid
• →Kerak Crusader castle
• →St George's Church and Madaba Map mosaic

Hire a shared taxi or join a group day tour from Madaba covering Mount Nebo (free entry, Moses' viewpoint over the Jordan Valley), a Dead Sea beach float with mud (Amman Beach or a cheaper public beach, ~20 JOD; bring an old swimsuit), and the Jerash Roman ruins (10 JOD, or covered by Jordan Pass). Group tours run £45–60 per person including transport and entry. Return to Amman by bus or shared taxi (£4–6) and stay downtown; optional Turkish bath in Amman for £12–15.

🚌Shared day van Madaba–Nebo–Dead Sea–Jerash–Amman (~£25)

🛏Budget hotel/hostel, downtown Amman (~£25)

• →Mount Nebo viewpoint
• →Dead Sea float and mud treatment
• →Jerash Roman archaeological site
• →Optional Amman hammam

Morning at leisure — coffee in Al-Weibdeh, last-minute souk shopping, or a walk around the Citadel (2 JOD) before heading to the airport by Airport Express bus or taxi. End of the self-launched trip. Prices are approximate and fluctuate with season and exchange rate.

🚌Airport Express bus to QAIA (~£6)

🛏—

• →Amman Citadel (2 JOD)
• →Al-Weibdeh cafés