Kanchenjunga Circuit Trek — Self-Launched

Land at Tribhuvan International Airport and take a pre-paid taxi or arrange an airport pickup with your guesthouse (≈£6). Settle into a Thamel guesthouse and spend the afternoon wandering Thamel's trekking shops to buy anything missing (down jacket and sleeping bag are cheap to hire here for the whole trek, ≈£1-2/day). Pick up a TIMS card and Kanchenjunga Conservation Area permit advice from the Nepal Tourism Board office or a trekking agency, and buy a Ncell/Nepal Telecom SIM with data.

🚌Taxi from TIA to Thamel ≈£6

🛏Budget guesthouse in Thamel, double/twin room (≈£10-15)

• →Airport transfer to Thamel
• →Explore Thamel
• →Hire down jacket and sleeping bag
• →Buy SIM card and trekking permits advice

Self-guided day around the Kathmandu Valley's UNESCO sites, all doable by local bus, taxi or on foot. Start at Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) in the morning, then taxi or local bus to Pashupatinath Temple and the ghats, followed by Boudhanath Stupa for the evening kora and a rooftop momo dinner. Kathmandu Durbar Square is walkable from Thamel. Entry fees are paid directly at each site.

🚌Local buses and taxis around the valley ≈£6-8 total

🛏Budget guesthouse in Thamel (≈£10-15)

• →Swayambhunath Temple (entry ≈£2)
• →Pashupatinath Temple (entry ≈£10)
• →Boudhanath Stupa (entry ≈£4)
• →Kathmandu Durbar Square (entry ≈£10)

Book a domestic flight Kathmandu–Bhadrapur yourself (Buddha Air or Yeti Airlines, ≈£100-130 one way, book online in advance). From Bhadrapur airport take a shared jeep or local bus up to Ilam for tea-garden stop-offs, then continue to Taplejung (≈6-8 hours). If flights are full or on a budget, an overnight tourist bus Kathmandu–Bhadrapur costs ≈£20-25 instead. Overnight in a simple guesthouse in Taplejung.

🚌Flight ≈£115 + shared jeep/bus ≈£8

🛏Simple guesthouse in Taplejung (≈£6-10)

• →Domestic flight to Bhadrapur
• →Ilam tea plantation stop
• →Shared jeep/bus to Taplejung

Collect your Kanchenjunga Conservation Area permit at the Taplejung checkpoint (bring passport copies and photos) and start trekking. Today's route drops through terraced lower hills and traditional Limbu/Rai villages before reaching the Tamur River, then follows it upstream to Sinuwa village. Go slowly — this is your warm-up day at low altitude. Teahouse lodging and dal bhat meals from here on.

🚌On foot (≈5-6 hrs)

🛏Teahouse, Sinuwa (≈£5-8)

• →Trek through lower hills and traditional villages
• →Follow the Tamur River upstream
• →Arrive at Sinuwa village

Trek downstream along the Tamur River, crossing the wooden bridge at Thiwa Khola and passing through the bustling market village of Chirwa, a major trade hub for the region. The trail is warm and humid through forest and cardamom fields — expect leeches in monsoon season. Overnight in Tapethok teahouse.

🚌On foot (≈6-7 hrs)

🛏Teahouse, Tapethok (≈£5-8)

• →Cross wooden bridge at Thiwa Khola
• →Trek through Chirwa market village
• →Follow the Tamur River

A tougher day: climb over the Simbuwa Khola spur, cross the bridge over the river draining from the Yalung Glacier, and enter the Ghunsa Khola valley. The valley forks here and you camp/night at the junction — the point where the two arms of the Kanchenjunga Circuit split. Altitude starts to bite a little.

🚌On foot (≈7 hrs)

🛏Teahouse, Ghunsa Khola (≈£5-8)

• →Trek over Simbuwa Khola spur
• →Cross bridge over Yalung Glacier river
• →Reach Ghunsa Khola valley fork

Follow the banks of the upper Ghunsa Khola on the route toward Kanchenjunga Base Camp, gradually gaining altitude through mossy rhododendron forest. Amjilosa is a small Tibetan-influenced settlement clinging to the hillside — simple teahouses only, so carry cash (there are no ATMs beyond Taplejung).

🚌On foot (≈6-7 hrs)

🛏Teahouse, Amjilosa (≈£5-8)

• →Trek along Ghunsa Khola banks
• →Follow route toward Kanchenjunga Base Camp
• →Reach Tibetan village of Amjilosa

A shorter, gentler day rewarded with the first proper mountain views. Trek through rhododendron and bamboo forest, pass a waterfall, and arrive at Gyabla where the landscape opens up with the Kanchenjunga massif beginning to reveal itself ahead of you.

🚌On foot (≈4-5 hrs)

🛏Teahouse, Gyabla (≈£6-9)

• →Trek through rhododendron and bamboo forest
• →Pass waterfall viewpoint
• →Arrive at Gyabla for landscape views

Descend into Gunsa, a traditional Tibetan village and one of the biggest settlements in the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area, with a school, monastery and hand-made carpet workshop. Visit the gompas in the afternoon and soak up the blend of Tibetan and Nepali culture. Spend the night here at ≈3,430m.

🚌On foot (≈5 hrs)

🛏Teahouse, Gunsa (≈£6-9)

• →Trek Gyabla to Gunsa village
• →Visit gompas in Gunsa
• →Explore traditional Tibetan village and carpet workshop

Critical acclimatisation day before you go above 4,000m. Take a short hike across the Ghunsa Khola and above the village, explore more of Gunsa's monasteries and mani walls, and learn about local Buddhist traditions. Rest properly, hydrate, and prep for the push to Lhonak.

🚌On foot (short hike, ≈3-4 hrs)

🛏Teahouse, Gunsa (≈£6-9)

• →Acclimatisation hike across Ghunsa Khola
• →Explore ancient Gunsa village
• →Visit monasteries and learn Buddhist culture

Climb through forest along the Ghunsa Khola, passing long rows of mani walls and chortens as you enter higher, drier terrain. Cross scree slopes and glacial moraines to reach Kangbachen, where you get your first big look at Jannu (Kumbhakarna, 7,710m) dominating the valley head.

🚌On foot (≈6 hrs)

🛏Teahouse, Kangbachen (≈£7-10)

• →Trek through forest along Ghunsa Khola
• →Pass mani walls and chortens
• →Cross scree slopes and moraines
• →Arrive Kangbachen with Jannu views

A big altitude day at 4,000m+. Trek alongside the Kanchenjunga Glacier, cross a high barren plateau, and reach the Lhonak campsite/teahouse (≈4,780m) with sweeping views of Wedge Peak, Nepal Peak, the Twins and — ahead — the Kanchenjunga massif. It's cold up here: expect -7 to 0°C at night in Oct/Nov.

🚌On foot (≈6-7 hrs)

🛏Teahouse/lodge, Lhonak (≈£8-12)

• →Trek along Kanchenjunga Glacier
• →Cross high plateau
• →Arrive Lhonak with views of Wedge Peak, Mera Peak, Nepal Peak, Twins Peak

The morning you came for. Leave the heavy pack at your lodge and trek out to Pangpema, the north-side Kanchenjunga Base Camp, with the full massif and the Lhonak Glacier filling your horizon. Have lunch at the viewpoint, photograph Kanchenjunga North (8,586m) up close, then trek back to Lhonak for the night.

🚌On foot (≈6-7 hrs return)

🛏Teahouse/lodge, Lhonak (≈£8-12)

• →Trek to Kanchenjunga Base Camp (Pangpema)
• →View peaks at base camp
• →Return trek to Lhonak

A long descent day retracing your steps from Lhonak back down the valley to Ghunsa (≈3,430m) — undulating, and knees take a hammering on the moraine sections, so trekking poles pay off. Enjoy the return of oxygen and the comfort of a proper fireplace at the teahouse.

🚌On foot (≈8-9 hrs)

🛏Teahouse, Ghunsa (≈£6-9)

• →Trek back to Ghunsa from Lhonak
• →Descend through moraine and forest

Now on the southern arm of the circuit. Trek out on a rock-strewn trail and climb through forest up to High Camp below the passes, arriving at the grassy yak pasture of Sele La Kharka (≈4,200m). Cold night, so get an early dinner and set your alarm before dawn for tomorrow's pass crossing.

🚌On foot (≈5-6 hrs)

🛏Teahouse/basic lodge, Sele La Kharka (≈£7-10)

• →Trek rock-strewn trail
• →Climb through forest to High Camp
• →Arrive Sele La Kharka

The hardest and most spectacular day of the whole trek. Start before dawn to cross Sele La (4,480m) and Sinion La (4,660m) before afternoon cloud and wind roll in. The ridgeline views along the Nepal–India border are extraordinary — Yalung Glacier, Jannu, Makalu, Baruntse and Kanchenjunga all in one sweep. Descend to the meadow settlement of Tseram (≈3,780m).

🚌On foot (≈8-9 hrs)

🛏Teahouse, Tseram (≈£7-10)

• →Cross Sele La pass (4,480m)
• →Cross Sinion La pass (4,660m)
• →Panoramas of Yalung Glacier, Jannu, Makalu, Baruntse, Kanchenjunga
• →Descend to Tseram

Trek up past the Yalung Glacier terminus into a barren moraine valley to the sheep-grazing settlement at Ramche, keeping an eye out for blue sheep (bharal) on the slopes. Continue to Oktang, the southern-viewpoint of Kanchenjunga South and the Yalung Glacier — arguably the best single viewpoint of the whole circuit. Return to Ramche to sleep at altitude.

🚌On foot (≈6 hrs)

🛏Teahouse/basic lodge, Ramche (≈£7-10)

• →Trek through Yalung Glacier terminus
• →Spot blue sheep at Ramche
• →Trek to Oktang Glacier viewpoint
• →Return to Ramche

A gentler day, descending back down the moraine valley from Ramche to Tseram. Take your time for photos and enjoy the shifting angles on Kanchenjunga South and the Yalung Glacier behind you. Early arrival means a restful afternoon and a chance to dry out wet kit.

🚌On foot (≈4-5 hrs)

🛏Teahouse, Tseram (≈£7-10)

• →Trek back to Tseram
• →Photograph Kanchenjunga South and Yalung Glacier

Descend swiftly to rejoin the Simbuwa Khola and follow it through the lush, orchid-filled forests of the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area. The air gets warmer and greener by the hour. Reach Tortong village for the night.

🚌On foot (≈6-7 hrs)

🛏Teahouse, Tortong (≈£5-8)

• →Trek back to Simbuwa Khola
• →Walk through Kanchenjunga Conservation Area forests
• →Arrive Tortong village

Trek through the pine forests below Lamite Bhanjyang, cross the Amji Khola, and descend into Yamphudin — a multi-ethnic village of Limbu, Rai, Sherpa and Gurung families and the main settlement on the southern approach trail. A good place to recharge and swap stories with other trekkers.

🚌On foot (≈6 hrs)

🛏Teahouse, Yamphudin (≈£5-8)

• →Trek through Lamite Bhanjyang pine forest
• →Cross Amji Khola
• →Descend to Yamphudin

Follow the Kabeli Khola river downstream, passing waterfalls tumbling into the gorge and crossing a series of swing bridges. Forest, terraces and cardamom fields return as you drop lower. Overnight in Phumphe village.

🚌On foot (≈6-7 hrs)

🛏Teahouse, Phumphe (≈£5-8)

• →Trek alongside Kabeli Khola
• →View waterfalls on the river
• →Arrive Phumphe

A ridge-and-valley day: trek along the ridge out of Phumphe, descend through valleys past Phun and Kesawa, and traverse the Gurung village of Bhanjyang before reaching the Limbu village of Kande Bhanjung. Camp/night on the banks of the Pha Khola — the last properly remote night of the trek.

🚌On foot (≈7 hrs)

🛏Teahouse/basic lodge, Kande Bhanjung (≈£5-8)

• →Trek along ridge from Phumphe
• →Pass through Phun, Kesawa and Gurung village of Bhanjyang
• →Reach Limbu village of Kande Bhanjung
• →Camp on banks of Pha Khola

The last day on the trail. Trek out to Suketar airstrip and down the final ridge into Taplejung town (≈1,440m). Celebrate with a cold drink, a hot shower and a proper mattress after three weeks of teahouses. Overnight in Taplejung.

🚌On foot (≈6 hrs)

🛏Simple guesthouse in Taplejung (≈£6-10)

• →Final trek day to Suketar
• →Trek into Taplejung
• →Celebrate end of trek

Long, winding drive down from the hills to the Terai plains at Birtamod — shared jeep or local bus, roughly 10-12 hours. It's hot, dusty and a hard reset after the mountains, but views over the tea country and the plains opening out are excellent. Overnight in a Birtamod guesthouse near the highway.

🚌Shared jeep/bus ≈£8-10

🛏Guesthouse, Birtamod (≈£8-12)

• →Drive Taplejung to Birtamod
• →Views over tea country and Terai plains

Transfer from Birtamod to Bhadrapur airport (≈45 mins) and fly back to Kathmandu (≈£100-130, book in advance — flights sometimes get cancelled for weather, so leave buffer days if you're on a tight international connection). Check into a Thamel guesthouse and celebrate the trek in Thamel's bars and restaurants.

🚌Local transfer to Bhadrapur ≈£6 + flight ≈£115

🛏Budget guesthouse in Thamel (≈£10-15)

• →Domestic flight Bhadrapur to Kathmandu
• →Explore Thamel in the evening
• →Celebration dinner in Thamel

Final morning for souvenir shopping or a last kora around Boudhanath before heading to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight home. Taxi transfers to the airport cost ≈£6-8 and take 20-40 minutes depending on traffic.

🚌Taxi to TIA ≈£6-8

🛏N/A — departure day

• →Last-minute souvenir shopping
• →Airport transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport