Kenya: Maasai Community, Mt Kenya & Maasai Mara — Self-Launched

Land at Jomo Kenyatta International (JKIA). A taxi into the city centre or Westlands costs KES 2,500–3,500 (~£15–21); if you're travelling light, the Airport Bus Service runs to the city centre for about KES 500. Check into a backpacker hostel or budget guesthouse in Westlands or Kilimani — the Kenya Comfort Suites or Wildebeest Eco Camp both work well. Spend the afternoon at the Nairobi National Museum (KES 1,200) or the David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage (book ahead, ~£12). Eat at a local 'hoteli' for ugali and sukuma wiki for under £4, and pick up a Safaricom SIM card with data at the airport (~£3–5). Note that the Kenya eTA is mandatory for all nationalities and costs about $34 (~£27) — apply online at least a week before travel.

🚌Taxi or airport bus from JKIA (~£15)

🛏Hostel private room or budget guesthouse, Westlands (approx. £25/night)

• →Nairobi National Museum or Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage
• →Safaricom SIM card and data bundle
• →Local dinner in Westlands

Take a shared shuttle or matatu from Nairobi to Nanyuki (~4 hours, KES 1,000–1,500, ~£7–10) — Riverside Shuttle and several companies run daily morning departures from the River Road/Ronald Ngala area. From Nanyuki, arrange in advance with Il Ngwesi Eco-Lodge (book directly by email; they are Maasai-owned and community-run) for a conservancy transfer — expect to pay for a 4x4 pickup, roughly £60–90 per vehicle, so team up with other travellers if you can. Arrive for lunch and settle into a bandas-style room with open-fronted views over the savannah. Afternoon bush walk with a Maasai guide to learn tracking and medicinal plant knowledge. Dinner included at the lodge.

🚌Matatu/shuttle Nairobi–Nanyuki (~£8) plus shared conservancy transfer (~£30–45pp)

🛏Il Ngwesi Eco-Lodge, Maasai-owned conservancy (full board approx. £150–190/night inclusive of activities — the single biggest line item, book directly)

• →Afternoon guided bush walk with Maasai hosts
• →Conservancy orientation and wildlife spotting

Wake to the open savannah at your feet. Morning game drive in the conservancy's open 4x4 — Il Ngwesi protects species found only in northern Kenya including Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe and Beisa oryx. In the afternoon, join your Maasai hosts on a village visit: sit with elders, learn beadwork from the women's groups, and ask the questions a two-hour tour never allows. Most of this is included in the lodge's full-board rate; bring small cash for beadwork purchases (KES 1,000–3,000). Evening sundowner on the rocks.

🚌Walking and lodge 4x4

🛏Il Ngwesi Eco-Lodge (full board)

• →Morning conservancy game drive
• →Maasai village visit and beadwork workshop
• →Sundowner on the escarpment rocks

Say goodbye to your Maasai hosts and take a lodge transfer back to Nanyuki. Drop bags at a budget guesthouse (Equator Hotel or similar, ~£20–25). In the afternoon take a matatu or boda-boda to Ol Pejeta Conservancy (~30 mins). Entry to the conservancy is about $130 (~£103) for non-residents, which includes the Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary tour where you'll meet the rescued chimps — and the northern white rhinos, of which only two remain on earth. Book via the Ol Pejeta website or at the gate; a self-drive is not required, but a shared vehicle inside the conservancy costs extra (~£20pp).

🚌Conservancy transfer to Nanyuki (~£25 shared) plus matatu/boda to Ol Pejeta (~£3)

🛏Budget guesthouse in Nanyuki town (approx. £22/night)

• →Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary tour
• →Ol Pejeta Conservancy self-guided game drive (northern white rhino, black rhino)
• →Nanyuki town evening

Hire a licensed mountain guide and arrange a 4x4 transfer to Sirimon Gate (about 2,000–2,500 KES per person for a shared vehicle; guide day rate around KES 3,000–4,000, ~£20–27). Park entry for a day visit is roughly $52 (~£41). Hike the forested lower slopes of the Sirimon Route — around 12km return through giant heather and podocarpus forest, crossing rivers and with views up toward the peaks if the cloud lifts. This is a day hike only, not a summit attempt, so no acclimatisation is needed. Return to Nanyuki for dinner and an early night.

🚌Shared 4x4 to Sirimon Gate (~£15pp)

🛏Budget guesthouse in Nanyuki (approx. £22/night)

• →Guided day hike on the Sirimon Route, Mt Kenya National Park
• →River crossings and afro-alpine forest walk

Rather than a long, rough 6-hour road transfer, fly SafariLink or AirKenya from Nanyuki airstrip to Mara Serena or Ol Kiombo airstrip (book online; roughly $250–300 one way, ~£200–240 — or take the cheaper overland option via Nairobi, ~£35, if budget is tight and you don't mind a full day in a matatu). On arrival, your camp's driver-guide collects you. Check into a mid-range tented camp outside the reserve gate — Mara Explorers Camp near Talek is excellent value at about £45–60 per night full board. Head straight out for an afternoon game drive: the Mara holds some of the densest lion, leopard and cheetah populations on the continent. Park fees are $100 per person per 24 hours — pay by card at the gate or have your camp pre-pay.

🚌SafariLink flight Nanyuki–Maasai Mara (~£210) plus camp transfer

🛏Tented safari camp near Talek, Mara Explorers Camp or similar (full board approx. £55/night)

• →Afternoon game drive in the Maasai Mara National Reserve

Your choice day. Either join a guided hike along the Oloololo Escarpment — a granite plateau with around 300m of elevation gain and roughly 3.5 hours of walking, run by community guides through the Mara Triangle conservancies (book through your camp, ~£40–60 per person including the conservancy fee) — or take the classic morning game drive in the reserve. Both include a picnic breakfast in the bush. In the evening, arrange a bush dinner with your camp; many offer a barbecue set up under the acacia trees for about £25–35pp including food. Bring a headtorch and warm layer for the drive back.

🚌Camp 4x4 safari vehicle

🛏Tented safari camp near Talek (full board)

• →Oloololo Escarpment guided hike OR morning game drive
• →Bush barbecue dinner

A full day out with your driver-guide, leaving at dawn with a packed breakfast and staying out through the middle of the day when the cats are often lazing in the shade. Split the vehicle cost with other travellers staying at your camp (a full-day private vehicle is $150–200, so sharing brings it to £20–30pp) plus the park fee if your 24-hour window has expired. Cross to the Mara River to look for hippo pods and, if your timing is July–October, the migration crossings. Return for a final dinner at camp.

🚌Shared camp 4x4 safari vehicle

🛏Tented safari camp near Talek (full board)

• →Full-day game drive with picnic breakfast
• →Mara River hippo and crossing viewpoints

One last early morning drive, then either fly back to Wilson Airport (~£180) or take the overland route: a shared shuttle from Talek/Sekenani to Nairobi (~£25, 5–6 hours). Break the journey at Cafe Ubuntu in Maai Mahiu — a social enterprise run by the NGO Ubuntu Africa that trains and employs local women, with a farm-to-table menu and crafts shop (lunch ~£8–12). Arrive in Nairobi in the evening and check into a hostel or guesthouse near the airport or Westlands.

🚌Shared shuttle Mara–Nairobi (~£25) or flight (~£180)

🛏Budget hotel or hostel private room, Nairobi (approx. £28/night)

• →Sunrise game drive
• →Cafe Ubuntu lunch and crafts shop stop

Depending on your flight time, squeeze in a final visit to the Maasai Market for souvenirs or a coffee in Westlands. Take a taxi or the airport bus to JKIA (~£15) and fly home. Factor in about £30–40 for airport departure and any last-minute meals.

🚌Taxi to JKIA (~£15)

🛏None — departure day

• →Maasai Market souvenir shopping (if time allows)