Self-Launched Ladakh: Delhi to Leh Overland via Dharamsala & Manali

Land at Indira Gandhi International and take the official Delhi Traffic Police prepaid taxi (roughly INR 300-500 / £4-6) to a hostel in Paharganj or Karol Bagh. Ignore touts at the airport. Settle in, buy a local SIM (Airtel/Jio, ~£5 for a month), and wander the Main Bazaar for your first thali dinner. Get an early night — you have a long train tomorrow.

🚌Delhi Traffic Police prepaid taxi, ~£5

🛏Hostel private room or budget guesthouse, Paharganj (~£12-16)

• →Prepaid airport taxi to Paharganj
• →SIM card purchase
• →Main Bazaar evening wander

DIY the classic Delhi day: morning walking circuit of Old Delhi taking in Jama Masjid (£2 entry for non-Muslims, kurtas provided), the spice lanes of Khari Baoli, and Connaught Place for coffee. Book a 3AC sleeper on the Delhi–Pathankot/Jammu line in advance on IRCTC (book via 12Go or an agent if the site defeats you) — roughly £12-16 in 3AC. Consider the Salaam Baalak Trust city walk (bookable via GetYourGuide, ~£10-15) for a street-kids-project perspective similar to the original tour's G for Good moment.

🚌Overnight train Delhi–Pathankot Cantt, 3AC ~£14

🛏Overnight 3AC train

• →Jama Masjid & Khari Baoli spice market
• →Connaught Place
• →Salaam Baalak Trust walking tour (optional, book via GetYourGuide)

Arrive Pathankot Cantt around dawn. Take a shared jeep or HRTC bus to Kangra/Dharamsala (~3-4 hrs, £1-2). Check in around McLeod Ganj or lower Dharamsala. In the afternoon hire a local taxi or scooter (or take a shared jeep) out to the 8th-century rock-cut Masroor Temples (~£6-8 for a return taxi split). Evening orientation stroll with a momo dinner.

🚌HRTC bus/shared jeep Pathankot–Dharamsala ~£2; taxi to Masroor shared ~£5

🛏Guesthouse, McLeod Ganj (~£10-14)

• →Shared jeep to Dharamsala
• →Masroor rock-cut temples
• →McLeod Ganj evening stroll

Morning walk from McLeod Ganj to Bhagsunag waterfall and the Bhagsunath temple, then up to the Shiva café for breakfast views (free, ~2-3 hrs). Afternoon: Norbulingka Institute (£2 entry) to see Tibetan arts and crafts, or attend a Tibetan cooking class or meditation session bookable locally or via Klook/GetYourGuide (~£10-15). Check the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts schedule for evening shows. If the Dalai Lama is in residence, free public talks are sometimes available — check the official schedule.

🚌On foot; local bus ~£1

🛏Guesthouse, McLeod Ganj (~£10-14)

• →Bhagsunag waterfall hike
• →Norbulingka Institute
• →Optional Tibetan cooking or meditation class

Long travel day. Take an early HRTC bus (or shared taxi) toward Palampur, stop for tea-garden views, then continue via Mandi and the Kullu Valley to Manali (total 8-9 hrs, HRTC ordinary/superfast £4-6, shared taxi £10-12). Sit on the correct side for river and orchard views. Arrive Manali, settle into Old Manali guesthouse and eat at a riverside café.

🚌HRTC bus Dharamsala–Manali ~£5

🛏Guesthouse, Old Manali (~£10-14)

• →Palampur tea gardens stop
• →Kullu Valley scenic drive

Morning walk to the Manu Temple in Old Manali, then the cedar-fringed Hidimba Devi Temple (£1 entry). Free afternoon for the Vashisht hot springs (free, local bus £0.50) or the Jogini waterfall trail. Use the evening to collect onward transport info for the Rohtang Pass and acclimatise a little — you are already at 2,000 m.

🚌Local bus/walking, ~£1

🛏Guesthouse, Old Manali (~£10-14)

• →Manu Temple
• →Hidimba Devi Temple
• →Vashisht hot springs

Take an early HRTC bus or shared Sumo over the Rohtang Pass to Keylong (5-7 hrs, £5-8; Rohtang requires a permit, usually handled by the bus operator — confirm). Spectacular scenery and a big jump in altitude. Afternoon walk to Kardang Monastery (free, 30-40 min uphill) and a slow evening in Keylong bazaar.

🚌HRTC bus/shared Sumo Manali–Keylong ~£7

🛏Guesthouse, Keylong (~£8-12)

• →Rohtang Pass drive
• →Kardang Monastery

Shared jeep/tempo traveller onward over the Bara-lacha La (4,890 m) to Sarchu (4,200 m) — 4-5 hrs, £8-12 shared. Check into one of the seasonal tented camps (basic, ~£12-18 with dinner and breakfast). Rest, hydrate and take it easy at altitude. Nights are cold even in summer.

🚌Shared jeep Keylong–Sarchu ~£10

🛏Fixed tented camp, Sarchu (~£15 with meals)

• →Bara-lacha La crossing
• →Tented camp night in the Himalayas

Early start over the Lachlung La and Taglang La (5,328 m — one of the world's highest road passes) into Ladakh via Upshi and the Indus Valley. Total 8-10 hrs shared jeep (£12-18). Arrive Leh (3,500 m) in the evening, check into a guesthouse in Changspa, eat lightly and sleep early — acclimatisation day tomorrow.

🚌Shared jeep Sarchu–Leh ~£15

🛏Guesthouse, Changspa, Leh (~£12-16)

• →Taglang La pass crossing
• →Indus Valley drive

Take it slow. Morning at Leh Palace and the old town lanes, afternoon at Shanti Stupa for sunset (all free or a couple of pound entry). Wander the Main Bazaar, book onward taxi shares for monastery days at the taxi stand, and drink plenty of water. Optional evening yoga class in Changspa (~£5).

🚌Walking

🛏Guesthouse, Changspa, Leh (~£12-16)

• →Leh Palace & old town
• →Shanti Stupa sunset
• →Optional evening yoga

Share a taxi (typical full-day rate ~£40-50, split between 4 = £10-12 each) along the Indus to Shey Palace, Thiksey Monastery (arrive for the 6am prayer ceremony if you can, or mid-morning) and Hemis Monastery. Buy combined entry tickets as you go (£1-2 each). Alternatively public buses run part of the way (very cheap, £1). Back in Leh by evening.

🚌Shared taxi full day ~£12 per person

🛏Guesthouse, Changspa, Leh (~£12-16)

• →Shey Palace
• →Thiksey Monastery
• →Hemis Monastery

Drive the Manali road out to Gya village and Miru, with meadow and stream scenery along the way (£8-10 shared taxi). Walk between the villages, visit the small local monastery, and eat at a village dhaba. Return to Leh for the afternoon; optional beginner-friendly rafting on the Zanskar/Indus at Nimmu (~£15-20 arranged locally or via GetYourGuide).

🚌Shared taxi ~£9

🛏Guesthouse, Changspa, Leh (~£12-16)

• →Gya & Miru village walk
• →Optional Indus/Zanskar rafting

Short shared taxi or bus to Stok Palace (£2-3), the Ladakhi royal family's residence, and its costume and thangka museum (£3 entry). Return to Leh for a free afternoon: hire a mountain bike (£6-8 a day), take a Ladakhi cooking class, or just read in a Changspa café garden. Second yoga or meditation session if you enjoyed yesterday's.

🚌Local bus/shared taxi ~£3

🛏Guesthouse, Changspa, Leh (~£12-16)

• →Stok Palace & museum
• →Optional mountain biking
• →Optional Ladakhi cooking class

Board the morning flight from Leh's high-altitude airport to Delhi (book early — seats are limited and prices rise; expect £40-70 one-way on IndiGo/SpiceJet/Air India). Check flight timing carefully due to early-morning weather. Back in Delhi by midday: free afternoon for Humayun's Tomb (£5), the Akshardham complex (free), or last-minute shopping in Dilli Haat. Hostel in Paharganj for the night.

🚌Internal flight Leh–Delhi ~£55

🛏Hostel private room, Paharganj (~£12-16)

• →Leh–Delhi flight
• →Optional Humayun's Tomb or Akshardham

Prepaid taxi or the Airport Express Metro (₹60 / £0.60) to IGI for your international flight home. If you have a late flight, leave your bag at the hostel and revisit a favourite Delhi spot for one last chai.

🚌Airport Express Metro ~£1

🛏None

• →Airport transfer and departure