Highlights of Madhya Pradesh — Self-Launched

Land at Mumbai (BOM), take the airport express or an Uber/Ola to a guesthouse in Colaba or near Juhu Beach (a dorm bed at a Colaba hostel is £8-14; simple private rooms £18-28). Spend the afternoon walking Marine Drive and the Gateway of India, sorting out a local SIM/eSIM and an unreserved-to-reserved rail plan at a Computerised Reservation Office (CRS) — or just book everything on the IRCTC app before you fly. Grab a vada pav and thali dinner for under £5.

🚌Airport express/Uber to Colaba, ~£2-4; local trains and metro £0.30-0.60 per ride

🛏Hostel dorm or simple guesthouse, Colaba/Juhu (£8-25)

• →Marine Drive sunset walk
• →Gateway of India
• →Colaba Causeway market
• →IRCTC rail bookings

Ferry from the Gateway of India to Elephanta Caves (ferry ~£3 return, caves entry ~£6 for foreigners) — go early to avoid queues. Back on the mainland, use suburban trains/Uber to tick off Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (Prince of Wales Museum, ~£7), the Hanging Gardens and Kamala Nehru Park on Malabar Hill, Gandhi's Mani Bhavan, and the Jain temple at Malabar Hill. Finish with sunset at Juhu Chowpatty. Skip the 'full day guided tour' format — a licensed guide can be hired on the spot at Elephanta for ~£10-15 if you want context.

🚌Ferry £3, local train/Uber £3-6

🛏Hostel dorm or simple guesthouse (£8-25)

• →Elephanta Caves ferry & caves
• →CSMVS Museum
• →Hanging Gardens & Kamala Nehru Park
• →Mani Bhavan Gandhi museum
• →Juhu Chowpatty sunset

Book a budget IndiGo/SpiceJet flight Mumbai-Indore in advance (~£35-55 one way, 1h20). From Indore airport take an auto to Sarwate bus stand and a state/local bus to Dhar (~£2, 2h), then a shared jeep or auto up to Mandu village (~£2-3, 45min). Check into a guesthouse in Mandu village — the MP Tourism Malwa Resort is the original's hotel, but village guesthouses run £10-18.

🚌Flight £35-55; bus + shared jeep ~£5

🛏Mandu village guesthouse (£10-18)

• →Domestic flight to Indore
• →Local bus to Dhar
• →Shared jeep to Mandu

Mandu's monuments are spread over a plateau — rent a bicycle (~£2) or a scooter (~£7) and self-explore: Rupmati's Pavilion with its views over the Nimar plains, the huge Jama Masjid, Ashrafi Mahal, Hoshang Shah's Tomb, the Jahaz Mahal and Rewa Kund. Entry tickets are ₹25-₹300 each; a combined sensible day's worth is ~£6-8 for foreigners. Optional local guide at Jahaz Mahal ~£8.

🚌Bicycle or scooter hire £2-7

🛏Mandu village guesthouse (£10-18)

• →Jahaz Mahal
• →Rupmati's Pavilion
• →Jama Masjid & Hoshang Shah's Tomb
• →Rewa Kund

Bus from Mandu to Dhar then onward local bus to Maheshwar on the Narmada (~£3-4, 3h). Walk the ghats, the Ahilya Fort ramparts and the famous Maheshwari sari workshops; a short boat ride on the Narmada costs ~£2-3. In the afternoon take a shared jeep or bus to Omkareshwar (~£2, 1.5h) and stay on the island village side. Do the evening aarti on the ghats — free and genuinely one of the trip's best moments.

🚌Local buses + shared jeep ~£6

🛏Omkareshwar island guesthouse (£10-16)

• →Maheshwar ghats & Ahilya Fort
• →Maheshwari sari weaving workshops
• →Narmada river boat ride
• →Omkareshwar evening aarti

Cross the Narmada footbridge to the Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga temple (free entry, paid shoe storage), and visit the Mamleshwar temple on the opposite bank. Then bus/shared jeep to Khandwa or Indore (~£3) and take an afternoon or evening train to Bhopal (~£4-8 in sleeper/chair car, 3-5h). Base yourself in the old city near the Hamidia Road area or MP Nagar — guesthouses £10-18.

🚌Bus/jeep ~£3; train £4-8

🛏Bhopal guesthouse (£10-18)

• →Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga temple
• →Mamleshwar temple
• →Train to Bhopal

Local train from Bhopal to Sanchi (~£0.50, 50min) then auto to the hilltop. The UNESCO Buddhist complex — Great Stupa, the four elaborately carved toranas, monasteries and the Ashoka pillar fragments — is £5-6 for foreigners. The on-site Archaeological Museum (£1) has the original carved gateway pieces. Hire an ASI-approved guide at the gate (~£10) or use a GetYourGuide Sanchi day trip from Bhopal (~£35-45 including transport) if you'd rather not DIY the trains. Back to Bhopal by evening.

🚌Local train + auto ~£3

🛏Bhopal guesthouse (£10-18)

• →Great Stupa & toranas
• →Sanchi Archaeological Museum
• →Monastery ruins & Ashoka pillar

Bus or shared taxi from Bhopal to Bhimbetka (~£2-3, 1h30) — the painted rock shelters are a UNESCO site and cost ~£5 for foreigners. Continue on to Obaidullaganj/Hoshangabad and then Madhai on the Satpura buffer, using local buses and a final shared jeep (~£5-7 total, 3h). Accommodation near Madhai is limited — book a budget forest-gate lodge in advance (£15-25); the original uses Gourissa Resort Madhai.

🚌Buses + shared jeep ~£8

🛏Budget lodge near Madhai gate (£15-25)

• →Bhimbetka cave paintings
• →Local bus to Hoshangabad
• →Shared jeep to Madhai

Book Satpura jeep safaris yourself on the MP Forest Department portal (forest.mponline.gov.in) or via your lodge — a jeep (up to 6 people) runs roughly £45-60 plus permit, so ~£10-15 each if you share. Morning jeep safari is best for sloth bear, leopard and gaur; the afternoon can be a boat safari on the Denwa backwaters (~£20 shared) or a guided walking safari, which Satpura uniquely allows. A naturalist guide is mandatory and included in the jeep fee.

🚌Jeep safaris shared ~£15-25

🛏Budget lodge near Madhai gate (£15-25)

• →Morning jeep safari
• →Afternoon boat safari on Denwa
• →Guided walking safari (buffer zone)

Bus/shared jeep from Madhai to Itarsi or Pipariya (~£3), then a train to Jabalpur (~£2-4, 2-3h). Check into a guesthouse near the railway station or Napier Town (£9-16). Late afternoon, see the Marble Rocks at Bhedaghat (~£2 by shared auto, boat ride through the gorge ~£4-6) and the thundering Dhuandhar Falls, both easily done independently and arguably better than anything on the original day's schedule.

🚌Bus + train ~£6; shared auto ~£2

🛏Jabalpur guesthouse (£9-16)

• →Train to Jabalpur
• →Bhedaghat Marble Rocks boat ride
• →Dhuandhar Falls

Train or bus Jabalpur to Umaria (~£2, 2-3h), then a shared jeep to Tala village (~£2-3, 45min). Book Bandhavgarh safaris in advance — online permits via the MP Forest portal or through your lodge; core-zone jeep safaris run ~£60-80 per jeep for up to 6 people including guide and permit, so ~£12-15 sharing. Afternoon safari in Tala zone if permits allow; otherwise settle for the buffer zone. Stay in a budget jungle lodge or homestay in Tala (£15-25).

🚌Train £2; shared jeep £3; safari share £15

🛏Budget jungle lodge/homestay, Tala (£15-25)

• →Train to Umaria
• →Share jeep to Tala
• →Afternoon Bandhavgarh safari

Pre-book an early morning core-zone jeep safari (best tiger odds in Tala) and an afternoon safari in a different zone. Two safaris shared between 6 people come to roughly £25-30 each for the day. Between safaris, rest at the lodge and visit the small village near the park gate. Bandhavgarh has one of India's highest tiger densities — this is the day to push your luck.

🚌Two shared jeep safaris ~£25-30

🛏Budget jungle lodge/homestay, Tala (£15-25)

• →Morning core-zone tiger safari
• →Afternoon safari (Magadhi/Khitauli zone)
• →Village walk near Tala gate

One final early morning safari if permits allow (~£15), then a shared taxi or bus to Khajuraho (~£6-9, 4-5h via Satna or direct shared jeep). Alternatively take a train from Umaria to Khajuraho/Harpalpur (~£2-3) and a short local bus. Khajuraho has plenty of cheap guesthouses in the old village behind the western temple group (£10-18). Evening: buy your ticket for the light and sound show at the Western Group (~£5-7).

🚌Shared taxi/bus ~£7

🛏Khajuraho village guesthouse (£10-18)

• →Optional morning safari
• →Transfer to Khajuraho
• →Light and sound show booking

The Western Group of temples (Kandariya Mahadev, Lakshmana, Vishvanatha, Chitragupta/Bharatji, Nandi shrine, Matangeshwar) is one combined UNESCO ticket at ~£5-6 for foreigners. Walk to the Eastern Group (Jain temples, Vamana and Brahma temples) — also covered — and take an auto (~£2) to the Chausath Yogini temple and the Archaeological Museum. An AudioGuide or ASI-approved local guide at the Western Group is ~£8-10; the light and sound show in the evening is ~£5-7. Save money by skipping the packaged 'full day guided tour'.

🚌Auto rickshaws ~£3

🛏Khajuraho village guesthouse (£10-18)

• →Western Group temples
• →Eastern Group & Jain temples
• →Chausath Yogini temple
• →Khajuraho Archaeological Museum
• →Evening light and sound show

Bus or shared taxi Khajuraho to Jhansi (~£3-5, 3-4h), then a local bus or auto the last 18km to Orchha (~£1). Orchha's riverside guesthouses and homestays (£10-18) are among the best value on the whole route — ask for a room with a Betwa view. Spend the late afternoon on the Betwa riverbank watching the cenotaphs (chhatris) catch the light, and book a rafting slot if you're keen (~£8-12).

🚌Bus + local bus ~£5

🛏Orchha riverside homestay (£10-18)

• →Bus to Jhansi & Orchha
• →Betwa riverbank cenotaph views
• →Optional river rafting

Orchha's monuments are walkable or a short cycle ride apart. The Orchha Fort complex ticket (~£5 for foreigners, covers Jehangir Mahal, Raj Mahal and Rai Praveen Mahal) is one of the best-value entries in India. The Ram Raja Temple is the only place where Ram is worshipped as a king — free entry, but dress modestly. Cross the footbridge for the 14 riverside cenotaphs. Hire a local guide at the fort gate (~£8) if you want the Bundela history properly told.

🚌On foot / bicycle hire ~£2

🛏Orchha riverside homestay (£10-18)

• →Orchha Fort complex
• →Jehangir Mahal & Raj Mahal
• →Rai Praveen Mahal
• →Ram Raja Temple
• →Riverside chhatris

Bus or shared taxi to Jhansi (~£1), then a train to Gwalior (~£1.50-3, 1.5h) — the Shatabdi and many ordinary trains make this easy. Gwalior is a big, cheap, underrated city; guesthouses and budget hotels near the station or Lashkar run £10-18. Afternoon: stroll the Lashkar bazaar and the Jay Vilas Palace area, and buy your Gwalior Fort ticket for tomorrow (combined ticket ~£8-10 for foreigners).

🚌Bus + train ~£4

🛏Gwalior budget hotel (£10-18)

• →Train to Gwalior
• →Lashkar bazaar
• →Tansen's tomb area

Take a shared auto or local bus up to Gwalior Fort (~£1). The combined ticket (~£8-10) covers Man Mandir Palace with its turquoise tilework, Gujari Mahal (archaeological museum), the Teli-ka-Mandir, Sas-Bahu temples and the Assi Khamba baoli. Below the fort, the tombs of Muhammad Ghaus and Tansen are free. The Suraj Kund tank is worth a quick look. A local guide at Man Mandir is ~£8-10; otherwise use the ASI signage and a good audio guide.

🚌Shared auto + bus ~£2

🛏Gwalior budget hotel (£10-18)

• →Gwalior Fort & Man Mandir Palace
• →Gujari Mahal museum
• →Teli-ka-Mandir & Sas-Bahu temples
• →Tomb of Muhammad Ghaus
• →Tansen Tomb

Take a comfortable daytime Shatabdi or Gatimaan-type train from Gwalior to New Delhi (~£5-10, 3.5-4h), or a budget flight if you're short on time (~£30-45). Base yourself in Paharganj or Karol Bagh — hostel dorms £7-12, budget hotels £15-25. Afternoon: wander Connaught Place and book your Delhi sights for tomorrow, or join a free walking tour of Old Delhi (tip-based, ~£5-8 in tips).

🚌Train £5-10

🛏Delhi hostel or budget hotel, Paharganj (£7-25)

• →Train to New Delhi
• →Paharganj/Karol Bagh check-in
• →Connaught Place wander
• →Optional free walking tour

Start early at Qutub Minar (~£6 for foreigners), then Humayun's Tomb (~£6). Use the Delhi Metro between sights (~£0.60-1.20 per trip). In the afternoon cross to Old Delhi: Jama Masjid (free, camera fee ~£3, modest dress), then a cycle rickshaw through Chandni Chowk spice market for an hour (~£3-5 — agree the price first). Raj Ghat and the Lotus Temple are free; the Lotus Temple is closed on Mondays. Eat your way through Paranthe Wali Gali for under £4.

🚌Metro + rickshaws ~£4

🛏Delhi hostel or budget hotel (£7-25)

• →Qutub Minar
• →Humayun's Tomb
• →Jama Masjid
• →Chandni Chowk cycle rickshaw & spice market
• →Raj Ghat
• →Lotus Temple

Final breakfast, last-minute shopping in Janpath or Dilli Haat for textiles and handicrafts, then take the Airport Express metro to IGI Airport (~£1.50) or an Uber (~£4-6). If you're flying home the same day, allow at least 3 hours for international check-in.

🚌Airport Express metro ~£1.50

🛏—

• →Janpath/Dilli Haat shopping
• →Airport Express to IGI