Annapurna Circuit Trek — Self-Launched

Land at Tribhuvan International Airport and take a prepaid taxi or ride-share to Thamel (around NPR 700–1,000 / £4–6) — no private transfer needed. Check into a Thamel guesthouse, then head to the Nepal Tourism Board office (Bhrikutimandap) or an authorised agent to collect your ACAP permit (NPR 3,000) and Khumbu/Annapurna-area TIMS card (NPR 2,000). Buy or rent a down jacket and sleeping bag if needed, grab a local SIM (Ncell or NTC data pack ~£6), and spend the evening eating dal bhat and planning your bus ticket for tomorrow.

🚌Airport prepaid taxi ~£5; walking in Thamel

🛏Thamel guesthouse, private room (£12–18)

• →Arrange ACAP permit + TIMS card
• →Gear rental / shopping in Thamel
• →Buy local SIM and data pack
• →Trek briefing with yourself — check weather and bus times

Take an early tourist bus or local bus from Kathmandu's Gongabu (New Bus Park) to Besisahar — roughly 6–7 hours, NPR 700–1,000 (£5–7). From Besisahar catch a shared jeep or local bus up the dirt road to Bhulbhule (about 1.5–2 hours, ~£3). Check the road conditions at the ACAP counter in Besisahar. Overnight in a teahouse above the Marsyangdi River; dinner is included in the room rate at most teahouses (dal bhat, ~£4–5).

🚌Kathmandu–Besisahar bus ~£6; shared jeep Besisahar–Bhulbhule ~£3

🛏Teahouse, Bhulbhule (£3–5, usually with meals purchased)

• →Scenic bus ride along the Trishuli River
• →ACAP check-in at Besisahar
• →Evening walk to the Marsyangdi suspension bridge

A steady 6–7 hour walk from Bhulbhule (840 m) up to Chamje (1,430 m). Cross the long suspension bridges over the Marsyangdi, pass waterfalls and terraced rice fields, and work along the slope through Ngadi and Jagat, where there's another permit checkpoint. Keep the pace easy — you're acclimatising. Teahouse dinner and breakfast the norm.

🚌On foot ~13 km

🛏Teahouse, Chamje (£3–5)

• →Suspension bridge crossings
• →Waterfall viewpoints
• →Rice terrace and village walking
• →Permit check at Jagat

Climb out of Chamje on the stone staircase to Tal (1,700 m), the first village officially inside the Annapurna Conservation Area, then continue through Dharapani and into rhododendron, pine and bamboo forest up to Bagarchhap (2,160 m). About 5–6 hours. Cooler air tonight — dig out the fleece.

🚌On foot ~12 km

🛏Teahouse, Bagarchhap (£3–5)

• →Tal village and ACAP entry point
• →Dharapani bazaar
• →Rhododendron and pine forest walking

A 5–6 hour day through Danaque, up to the Tamang settlement at Thanchowk, past Kolo and on to Chame (2,710 m), the district HQ of Manang. First proper views of Manaslu and the Annapurna II/IV wall open up. Chame has hot springs (natural pools across the river), a proper bakery and better phone signal — good spot to reset.

🚌On foot ~11 km

🛏Teahouse, Chame (£3–5)

• →Manaslu and Annapurna views
• →Tamang village of Thanchowk
• →Optional hot springs across the river

A 5–6 hour walk through Telekhu and over the Marsyangdi suspension bridge, then into pine forest climbing to Pisang (3,300 m). Consider continuing 45 minutes to Upper Pisang for the classic view of Annapurna II and a quieter, more traditional teahouse scene.

🚌On foot ~10 km

🛏Teahouse, Upper Pisang (£3–6)

• →Marsyangdi River suspension bridge
• →Pine forest walking
• →Annapurna II viewpoint

Take the high route via Ghyaru and Ngawal if you're feeling strong (great views, adds 2 hours), or the direct trail through Braga. Either way, stop at Braga Gompa, an active 500-year-old monastery with a tall golden stupa, then walk 30 minutes to Manang (3,540 m). Do one of the two acclimatisation day-hikes in Manang tomorrow from here — try to sleep two nights in the village.

🚌On foot ~10–13 km

🛏Teahouse or guesthouse, Manang (£4–8)

• →Braga Gompa monastery visit (small donation)
• →Optional high route via Ghyaru and Ngawal
• →Manang bakeries and movie night at the HRA house

Use today as a short acclimatisation day: walk up to the Gangapurna glacier viewpoint or the Chongkor viewpoint in the morning, then take the 2–2.5 hour trail to Khangsar (3,756 m), where the old red-walled monastery is the highlight. Keep it slow, drink water, and check the weather forecast at the HRA aid post in Manang (it helps with AMS advice too).

🚌On foot ~7 km

🛏Teahouse, Khangsar (£4–6)

• →Gangapurna lake viewpoint
• →Khangsar monastery
• →Himalayan Rescue Association altitude briefing (free/donation)

A 4-hour, 10.4 km walk uphill through juniper forest to Yak Kharka (4,050 m), following the Thorong Khola. This is your first night comfortably above 4,000 m — expect a cold, basic teahouse and take it easy. If the weather holds and you feel good, you can push on another hour to Letdar (4,200 m).

🚌On foot ~10.4 km

🛏Teahouse, Yak Kharka (£4–6)

• →Juniper forest walking
• →Thorong Khola valley
• →Optional continuation to Letdar

Short but altitude-heavy: 3–4 hours along the east bank of the Jarang Khola to Thorong Phedi (4,450 m) or the slightly lower start point at High Camp. Keep watching for blue sheep on the slopes and bearded vultures above. Eat and sleep early — you're starting before dawn tomorrow. Cash only here, and prices climb with altitude.

🚌On foot ~7 km

🛏Teahouse, Thorong Phedi (£5–8)

• →Jarang Khola valley walk
• →Blue sheep spotting
• →Optional climb to High Camp (4,850 m)

Start around 4:30–5 am with a headtorch to cross Thorong La (5,416 m) in the morning window before winds pick up. About 3–4 hours up, then a long 1,600 m descent to Muktinath — a genuinely big day. Get your pass certificate at the checkpoint teahouse. Down at Muktinath, visit the 108 water spouts at the temple, then sleep low. If you feel any AMS symptoms, do not push.

🚌On foot ~16 km

🛏Guesthouse, Muktinath (£5–8)

• →Thorong La Pass (5,416 m) crossing
• →Muktinath temple and 108 spouts
• →Descent through Ranipauwa

A relaxed day — walk down through meadows and apple orchards to Kagbeni (2,810 m), one of the most atmospheric villages on the whole circuit (old mud-brick fort and monastery, gateway to Mustang). Continue 3 hours along the Kali Gandaki riverbed and wind tunnel to Jomsom. Good bakeries, an airport and decent hotels here; Marpha apple brandy country.

🚌On foot ~18 km

🛏Guesthouse, Jomsom (£5–8)

• →Kagbeni village and monastery
• →Kali Gandaki valley walking
• →Apple orchards and bakery stops

Take a shared jeep or local bus down the Kali Gandaki through Marpha (worth a 30-minute stop for the old whitewashed village and apple products), Kalopani and Ghasa — roughly 4–5 hours, NPR 1,500–2,000 (~£9–12). Arrive at Tatopani (1,190 m) and soak in the hot springs by the river. This is the reward day.

🚌Shared jeep/bus Jomsom–Tatopani ~£10

🛏Guesthouse, Tatopani (£4–7)

• →Marpha village stop
• →Kali Gandaki gorge drive
• →Tatopani hot springs (small entry fee)

The hardest climbing day of the descent side: about 1,670 m of ascent over 6–7 hours through Dana and Shikha up to the ridge at Ghorepani (2,860 m). Beautiful rhododendron forest most of the way. Arrive in the afternoon, and set your alarm for Poon Hill tomorrow.

🚌On foot ~12 km

🛏Teahouse, Ghorepani (£3–6)

• →Rhododendron forest walk
• →Dana and Shikha villages
• →Annapurna South and Machapuchare views

Up at 5 am for the 40-minute climb to Poon Hill (3,210 m) for sunrise over Annapurna South, Dhaulagiri, Machapuchare and Hiunchuli — the single best panorama of the trip. Then descend 5–6 hours via Ulleri's stone steps and Banthanti to Nayapul, and take a shared jeep or local bus to Pokhara (~1.5 hours, £2–3). Lakeside Pokhara is your reward: lakeside guesthouse, cold beer, momos.

🚌On foot ~15 km; shared jeep Nayapul–Pokhara ~£3

🛏Lakeside guesthouse, Pokhara (£10–15)

• →Poon Hill sunrise (NPR 150 viewpoint fee)
• →Ulleri stone staircase descent
• →Phewa Lakeside evening

Tourist bus from Pokhara to Kathmandu takes 7–8 hours along the Prithvi Highway (NPR 1,200–1,700 / £8–10). Alternatively, a flight is around £75–95 if you'd rather buy back a day. Arrive in Kathmandu by evening, check back into a Thamel guesthouse, and have a proper farewell meal — or a massage, your legs have earned it.

🚌Pokhara–Kathmandu tourist bus ~£9 (or flight ~£85)

🛏Thamel guesthouse, private room (£12–18)

• →Prithvi Highway bus ride
• →Thamel evening
• →Last-minute souvenir shopping

Prepaid taxi to Tribhuvan International Airport (~£5) for your flight home. If you have a late flight, squeeze in Boudhanath Stupa or Swayambhunath at sunrise first — both are within easy reach of Thamel by taxi or on foot.

🚌Prepaid taxi to airport ~£5

🛏—

• →Optional Boudhanath or Swayambhunath visit
• →Airport transfer