Everest Base Camp Trek: The Self-Launched Version

Book your own Kathmandu–Lukla flight a few weeks ahead (Sita Air, Tara Air or Summit Air, roughly £130–160 each way; morning departures are far more reliable as Lukla clouds in after 10am). Fly the 35-minute scenic hop to Tenzing-Hillary Airport, collect your pack and walk north along the Dudh Koshi through Chheplung and Ghat to Phakding (2,610m), about 3-4 hours. Buy your Sagarmatha National Park permit and TIMS card at the Monjo checkpost tomorrow, or in Kathmandu at the Nepal Tourism Board office beforehand. Sleep low and eat well tonight.

🚌Self-booked Kathmandu–Lukla flight ~£145 + airport transfer ~£5

🛏Family-run teahouse in Phakding (twin room, shared bathroom) — ~£6-8

• →Self-purchased scenic flight to Lukla
• →Trek Lukla to Phakding along the Dudh Koshi (~8km)

Walk through Toc-Toc, Benkar and Monjo, crossing a string of long suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi. Pay for your Sagarmatha National Park entry permit (~£25) and TIMS card (~£14) at the Monjo counter, then climb the notorious Namche hill — high bridge at Larja Dobhan, then the long switchback up to Namche Bazaar (3,440m), about 6-7 hours total. Take it slow; this is the day most people first feel altitude. Namche has ATMs, bakeries and gear shops if you need anything.

🚌On foot (~11km)

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar — ~£7-9

• →Sagarmatha National Park permit checkpost at Monjo
• →Trek Phakding to Namche Bazaar via Benkar and Monjo

Rest day, but not a lazy one — climb high and sleep low. Walk up to the Sagarmatha National Park headquarters and the Everest View/Sherpa Culture museum above town for your first proper look at Everest and Ama Dablam, then spend the afternoon in the bakeries of Namche. Optional side trips: the trail to Khunde and Khumjung monastery, or a longer push to Thame. If you're here Friday evening or Saturday morning, the weekly market is worth the detour.

🚌On foot (short acclimatisation walks)

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar — ~£7-9

• →Sagarmatha National Park visitor centre and museum
• →Everest viewpoint above Namche
• →Optional: Khunde, Khumjung or Thame side trips
• →Optional: Namche weekly market

The most scenic day of the trek. Contour high above the Dudh Koshi with Ama Dablam ahead of you, drop steeply to Phunki Thenga for lunch by the river, then climb through pine and rhododendron to Tengboche (3,860m), roughly 5-6 hours. Visit Tengboche Monastery — the largest in Khumbu — and if you time it right you can sit in on the late-afternoon prayer ceremony, which is free but donations are welcome.

🚌On foot (~10km)

🛏Teahouse in Tengboche — ~£7-9

• →Trek Namche to Tengboche via Phunki Thenga
• →Tengboche Monastery evening prayer

Descend briefly to Deboche, cross the suspension bridge over the Imja Khola, then pass through Pangboche — home to the oldest monastery in Khumbu — and climb gently out of the treeline to Dingboche (4,410m). Around 5 hours. The landscape opens up dramatically here: Lhotse, Island Peak and Ama Dablam fill the skyline. Above the treeline now, so expect to pay more for food and hot water and to sleep in a warmer sleeping bag.

🚌On foot (~12km)

🛏Teahouse in Dingboche — ~£8-10

• →Trek Tengboche to Dingboche via Deboche and Pangboche
• →Optional: Pangboche monastery visit

Classic acclimatisation hike up to Nangkartshang Gompa (about 4,700m), with sweeping views of Makalu and Ama Dablam. Strong walkers can push to the 5,090m Nangkartshang summit — roughly 4-5 hours return — but turn around the moment you feel a headache building. Spend the afternoon hydrating, eating garlic soup and resting; tomorrow is a big one.

🚌On foot (acclimatisation hike)

🛏Teahouse in Dingboche — ~£8-10

• →Nangkartshang Gompa hike
• →Optional: Nangkartshang summit (5,090m)

A shorter day on purpose — climb to Dughla (4,620m) below the Khumbu Glacier moraine and stop at Chupki Lhara, the memorial cairns to climbers lost on Everest, a sobering and beautiful spot beneath Pumori, Khumbutse and Lingtren. Roughly 3 hours of walking. Sleeping here rather than pushing to Lobuche helps your acclimatisation and matches the operator's routing. Book a teahouse on arrival and order dinner early.

🚌On foot (~6km)

🛏Basic teahouse at Dughla/Chupki Lhara — ~£7-9

• →Trek Dingboche to Dughla
• →Chupki Lhara memorial cairns

The big one. Climb past the Khumbu Glacier moraine through Lobuche and on to Gorakshep (5,140m), drop your bag at a teahouse, then walk the final 2-3 hours across the glacier to Everest Base Camp (5,364m) — the cluster of expedition tents, prayer flags and icefall views beneath Nuptse and Pumori. Return to Gorakshep for the night, roughly 7-8 hours of walking in total. This is a long, cold, high day: start early, carry water and snacks, and know the symptoms of AMS.

🚌On foot (~13km)

🛏Teahouse at Gorakshep — ~£10-12

• →Trek to Everest Base Camp
• →Khumbu Glacier and Nuptse/Pumori viewpoints

Set off around 4.30-5am with a headtorch for the 2-hour climb to Kala Patthar (5,545m) — the best 360-degree view of Everest you'll get, with the summit lit by sunrise. Descend to Gorakshep for breakfast, then walk back down through Lobuche and Dughla to Pheriche (4,270m), about 6-7 hours total. Sleep is easier at lower altitude.

🚌On foot (~15km)

🛏Teahouse in Pheriche — ~£7-9

• →Kala Patthar sunrise hike
• →Descent via Lobuche and Dughla

A long but satisfying descent: back through Tengboche, down to Phunki Thenga and up the other side to Namche (3,440m) — roughly 7 hours. Rhododendron forest, warmer air and, by now, the pleasure of being able to breathe. Treat yourself to a proper meal and a hot shower in Namche.

🚌On foot (~15km)

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar — ~£7-9

• →Trek Pheriche to Namche via Tengboche and Phunki Thenga

Retrace the trail down through Monjo and Phakding to Lukla (2,840m), about 6-7 hours. Book (or confirm) your Lukla–Kathmandu flight for the next morning — build in a buffer day if your international flight allows, as Lukla cancellations are common. Evening celebration in one of Lukla's trekker bars if you have the energy.

🚌On foot (~19km)

🛏Guesthouse in Lukla — ~£7-9

• →Trek Namche to Lukla via Monjo and Phakding

Morning flight back to Kathmandu (~£145, self-booked), transfer to a guesthouse in Thamel if you're staying on, and spend the afternoon on laundry, momos and a hot shower. If you're flying home today, allow a generous gap between your Lukla flight and your international departure — a buffer day in Kathmandu is cheap insurance.

🚌Lukla–Kathmandu flight ~£145 + airport taxi ~£4

🛏Thamel guesthouse in Kathmandu (if staying on) — ~£12-18

• →Self-booked Lukla to Kathmandu flight
• →Free time in Thamel