Everest Base Camp 14 Days — Self-Launched

Land at Tribhuvan International Airport and take a pre-paid airport taxi or ride-hailing bike/taxi (NPR 700–1,000, ~£4–6) to a hostel or guesthouse in Thamel. Use the afternoon to buy your permits yourself: the Khumbu Pasanglhamu Rural Municipality permit (NPR 3,000, ~£17, bought at the municipality office or Nepal Tourism Board) and the Sagarmatha National Park entry (NPR 3,000). If you plan to hire a guide or porter, line it up today in Thamel or through a Kathmandu agency (guide ~£20–25/day, porter ~£15–18/day, often shared). Buy a Ncell/Namaste SIM with data, withdraw cash (there are ATMs in Namche but they're unreliable), and rent or buy a down jacket and sleeping bag if needed. Early night — the Lukla flight is usually very early.

🚌Airport taxi ~£5; walking in Thamel

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in Thamel (dorm or private room), ~£10–15

• →Airport transfer to Thamel
• →Buy TIMS/Khumbu municipality permit and Sagarmatha National Park permit
• →Arrange optional guide/porter
• →Buy SIM card and rent trekking gear
• →Thamel wander and Dal Bhat dinner

Take the scenic 35-minute flight from Kathmandu (or Ramechhap in peak season) to Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla — book through a Kathmandu agency or directly with Tara Air/Summit Air/Sita Air (roughly £130–180 one-way; peak-season flights often depart from Ramechhap, 4–5 hrs by road from Kathmandu, which cuts the fare but adds a bus leg). Land, collect your duffel and walk the easy 3–4 hours down along the Dudh Koshi River to Phakding (2,610 m). Cross several suspension bridges, pass Cheplung and Thado Koshi. Check into a teahouse, order garlic soup and get an early night.

🚌Kathmandu–Lukla flight ~£130–180; 3–4 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Phakding (twin room, shared bathroom), ~£6–10 including meals spend

• →Scenic flight to Lukla
• →Trek Lukla to Phakding along the Dudh Koshi River
• →Suspension bridge crossings

A big climbing day: 5–6 hours through Toc-Toc, Benkar and Monjo, where you show your park permit at the Sagarmatha National Park entrance. Drop to the Hillary Suspension Bridge, then grind up the long zig-zag climb to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m). Take it slow, drink water and expect the altitude to bite. Namche has bakeries, cafés, gear shops, an ATM and wifi (paid). Pay for a room and meals at your teahouse — most lodges discount the room if you eat there.

🚌5–6 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar, ~£8–12 room plus meals

• →Trek Phakding to Namche Bazaar
• →Sagarmatha National Park permit check at Monjo
• →Hillary Suspension Bridge

Mandatory rest day to acclimatise. Morning visit to the Sagarmatha National Park Visitor Centre and museum (small entry fee) for Everest history and mountain views. Optional hikes: up to the Everest View Hotel at Syangboche (~2 hrs return) for your first look at Everest, or a longer walk to Khunde/Khumjung village and the Hillary school. Friday evening/Saturday morning is the weekly market — great for people-watching. Spend the afternoon in a bakery with a cinnamon roll and rehydrate.

🚌Walking only

🛏Teahouse in Namche Bazaar, ~£8–12

• →Sagarmatha National Park Visitor Centre
• →Optional hike to Everest View Hotel / Syangboche
• →Optional Khunde and Khumjung villages
• →Namche weekly market (Fri/Sat)

Walk 5–6 hours on a beautiful high traverse above the Dudh Koshi with Ama Dablam dominating ahead. Descend to Phunki Tenga for lunch (hot lemon and noodles), then climb steeply through pine and rhododendron forest to Tengboche (3,860 m). Visit Tengboche Monastery — the largest in Khumbu — and time your stay for the late-afternoon puja (prayer ceremony), which is open to visitors (small donation appreciated). Cold night, so layer up.

🚌5–6 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Tengboche, ~£8–12

• →Trek Namche to Tengboche
• →Tengboche Monastery visit
• →Evening prayer ceremony

A gentler 4–5 hour day. Descend through rhododendron forest past Deboche, cross the bridge and walk the valley floor through Somare and Orsho, with Pheriche visible across the river. Climb gently to Dingboche (4,410 m), a windy, sunny village of stone-walled fields. Settle in, drink plenty of water, and keep an eye out for altitude symptoms.

🚌4–5 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Dingboche, ~£8–12

• →Trek Tengboche to Dingboche via Somare and Orsho
• →Views of Ama Dablam and Lhotse

Second acclimatisation day. Choose your climb: Nangkartshang Peak (5,083 m) is a 4-hour up-and-down with huge views of Makalu, Lhotse, Cholatse and Ama Dablam; Nagarjuna Hill is the shorter option; or a valley walk to Chukhung for Makalu views. Climb high, sleep low, then back to the teahouse for soup and cards. If you're feeling unwell at 4,400 m, this is the day to rest hard or descend.

🚌Walking only

🛏Teahouse in Dingboche, ~£8–12

• →Optional climb of Nangkartshang Peak (5,083 m)
• →Optional Nagarjuna Hill hike
• →Optional walk to Chukhung village

The hardest trekking day so far: 6–7 hours. Climb gently to Dughla (4,620 m) for lunch, then steeply up the Khumbu Glacier moraine to the Chupki Lhara memorial cairns — a moving stop for climbers who died on Everest. Continue along the glacial moraine, with Pumori, Khumbutse and Lingtren ahead, to Gorakshep (5,164 m), the last lodge settlement. Eat early, hydrate, and sleep with everything on — nights here are well below freezing.

🚌6–7 hrs walking

🛏Basic teahouse in Gorakshep (shared facilities, higher prices), ~£12–18

• →Trek Dingboche to Gorakshep
• →Dughla and Khumbu Glacier moraine
• →Chupki Lhara memorial

The big one. Walk 2–3 hours across the glacier moraine to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m) — the marker cairn, prayer flags and the Khumbu Icefall views. In spring you'll see expedition tents; in autumn it's quieter. It's an out-and-back so this is ~5–6 hours total with the return to Gorakshep. Take it steady, and if you're exhausted, remember Kala Patthar comes tomorrow at dawn.

🚌5–6 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse in Gorakshep, ~£12–18

• →Trek to Everest Base Camp
• →Photographs at the EBC marker and Khumbu Icefall viewpoint
• →Return to Gorakshep

Start around 4:30 am with a headtorch for the 1.5–2 hour climb to Kala Patthar (5,545 m) — the best close-up view of Everest's south face, plus Nuptse, Pumori and Changtse at sunrise. It's cold and steep but non-technical. Descend to Gorakshep for breakfast, then walk down 4–5 hours through Dughla and Pheriche to the lower, warmer village of Pangboche (3,985 m). Big oxygen gain, better sleep.

🚌7–8 hrs walking total

🛏Teahouse in Pangboche, ~£8–10

• →Sunrise summit of Kala Patthar (5,545 m)
• →Descent via Dughla and Pheriche to Pangboche

A relaxed 5–6 hour descent through forests via Deboche and Tengboche, then down to Phunki Tenga and up the ridge to Sanasa before the final roll into Namche Bazaar. Enjoy a hot shower (now usually paid, NPR 300–500), a bakery stop and a proper meal. If your legs are feeling good, this is the day to celebrate with an Everest beer.

🚌5–6 hrs walking

🛏Teahouse or small guesthouse in Namche Bazaar, ~£8–12

• →Trek Pangboche to Namche Bazaar via Sanasa
• →Views of Ama Dablam and Thamserku

The long final trekking day: 7–8 hours down to Phakding and on to Lukla, reversing the Hillary Suspension Bridge and park gate. Legs will be tired but it's mostly downhill. Arrive in Lukla, confirm your return flight at the airline office (Lukla flights are weather-dependent, so build in a buffer day if your schedule allows), and have a celebratory dinner with your trekking crew.

🚌7–8 hrs walking

🛏Lodge or guesthouse in Lukla, ~£10–15

• →Trek Namche to Lukla via Phakding
• →Confirm return flight at airline office
• →Explore Lukla village

Early morning flight back to Kathmandu (or a shared jeep/bus to Ramechhap then road transfer — allow 10–12 hours as a fallback if flights cancel). Check into your Thamel hostel, shower off ten days of dust, and spend the evening on souvenir shopping, a proper steak or momo dinner and a rooftop drink. Book a PCR-free onwards flight home or your next leg.

🚌Lukla–Kathmandu flight ~£130–180; airport transfer ~£5

🛏Hostel or guesthouse in Thamel, ~£10–15

• →Lukla–Kathmandu flight
• →Souvenir shopping in Thamel
• →Café/bar evening in Thamel

Slow morning, last momos and coffee, then a taxi to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight out. If your international flight leaves late, you can squeeze in Boudhanath Stupa or Pashupatinath before heading to the airport.

🚌Taxi to airport ~£5

🛏None (departure day)

• →Optional Boudhanath Stupa or Pashupatinath visit
• →Airport transfer