Highlights of North India: Self-Launched 20-Day Adventure

Fly into Indira Gandhi International Airport and take the Delhi Metro Airport Express directly to New Delhi station or Connaught Place (~£1.50). Check into your hostel in the Paharganj backpacker district or the trendier Karol Bagh area. No fixed plans today — wander Old Delhi, visit the Jama Masjid (free entry, modest dress required), stroll through Lodi Gardens, or grab street food at Dilli Haat craft market. Head to India Gate at sunset for a classic Delhi photo. Get your bearings and rest up.

🚌Delhi Metro Airport Express from IGI Airport (~£1.50)

🛏Moustache Hostel Delhi or similar rated hostel in Paharganj (~£8-12/night dorm)

• →Delhi Metro Airport Express to city centre (~£1.50)
• →Explore Old Delhi and Chandni Chowk market (free)
• →Visit Jama Masjid — climb the minaret for panoramic views (free entry, small camera fee)
• →Stroll Lodi Gardens (free)
• →Street food dinner at Dilli Haat or Paharganj lanes (~£3-5)

Spend the morning on the 'Reality Tours' Delhi street walk (book via their website, ~£10-12) — a similar ethical walking tour to the one included in the Gap360 tour, run by a local social enterprise. Then explore Old Delhi highlights: Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib (free), the spice market (Khari Baoli), Chandni Chowk and Connaught Place. In the evening, head to New Delhi railway station and board the overnight Bikaner Express (train 12453 or similar) to Bikaner. Book sleeper or AC 3-tier class on IRCTC (irctc.co.in) — ~£5-10 depending on class.

🚌Overnight train: New Delhi to Bikaner, ~8-9 hrs, book on IRCTC (~£5-10 sleeper/AC3)

🛏Overnight train (sleeper berth included in transport cost)

• →Reality Tours Delhi walking tour (~£10-12, book via realitytoursandtravel.com)
• →Visit Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib (free)
• →Explore Khari Baoli spice market (free)
• →Shop or browse Chandni Chowk and Connaught Place
• →Board overnight Bikaner Express from New Delhi station (~£5-10 sleeper class)

Arrive Bikaner early morning. Drop your bags at a guesthouse for a few hours to freshen up. Then head out on an overnight camel safari — dozens of local operators near Bikaner offer near-identical experiences to the group tour's safari. Camel Man or Vijay Desert Camp (both bookable directly or via GetYourGuide) offer 4x4 transfer to Raisar village, 4-5 hours camel riding through sand dunes, desert camp dinner, and a night under the stars for around £25-35 per person all-in. An unforgettable budget adventure.

🚌4x4 transfer included in safari package; auto-rickshaw from Bikaner station to guesthouse (~£1)

🛏Desert camp (included in camel safari cost ~£25-35)

• →Check in to Bikaner guesthouse briefly to freshen up (~£8-10/night, pay for one night)
• →Book overnight camel safari with local operator e.g. Camel Man Bikaner (~£25-35 all-in)
• →4x4 jeep ride to Raisar village
• →4-5 hours camel trekking through Thar Desert dunes
• →Sunset over sand dunes + camp dinner under the stars

Rise early to watch the sunrise over the dunes, then return to Bikaner by camel cart. Spend the afternoon exploring Bikaner's Old City on foot — the walled city and its busy bazaars are free to wander. The Junagarh Fort is Bikaner's star attraction (~£3 entry) and well worth a visit. In the evening, have a cheap thali dinner at a local restaurant before boarding your overnight train to Jaisalmer.

🚌Overnight train: Bikaner to Jaisalmer (~5.5 hrs), book on IRCTC (~£5-8 sleeper class)

🛏Overnight train to Jaisalmer (sleeper berth)

• →Sunrise over Thar Desert sand dunes
• →Camel cart return ride to Bikaner
• →Self-guided walk through Bikaner Old City and bazaars (free)
• →Visit Junagarh Fort (~£3 entry)
• →Thali dinner at a local dhaba (~£2-3)
• →Evening train to Jaisalmer

Arrive in Jaisalmer and check into a guesthouse inside or near the fort — many budget options here with stunning rooftop views. Jaisalmer Fort (Sonar Quila) is a living fort: ~£2.50 individual entry or split as a group. Spend the day wandering the winding golden sandstone lanes at your own pace, browsing handicraft stalls, and soaking up the otherworldly atmosphere. Catch the sunset from the fort ramparts — magical. Grab dinner at one of the rooftop restaurants with fort views.

🚌Auto-rickshaw from Jaisalmer station to fort area (~£1)

🛏Hotel Shahi Palace, Killa Bhawan or similar guesthouse near/inside fort (~£8-12/night)

• →Check into fort-area guesthouse (e.g. Hotel Shahi Palace or similar, ~£8-12/night)
• →Visit Jaisalmer Fort (Sonar Quila) (~£2.50 entry)
• →Self-guided walk through fort lanes and Jain Temples inside the fort (small donation)
• →Browse handicraft bazaars and Sadar Bazaar
• →Sunset from fort ramparts (free)
• →Rooftop dinner with fort views (~£4-6)

A free day in the Golden City. Options include a sunrise camel ride into the Sam Sand Dunes (~£10-15 for a half-day trip via local operators), visiting Patwon Ki Haveli (~£1 entry), exploring the Gadisar Lake at dawn, or taking a cooking class at one of the local schools. In the evening, enjoy a live folk music performance at a rooftop restaurant — many offer these for free or a small cover charge.

🚌Local walking / shared jeep to Sam Dunes (~£3-5 return)

🛏Same guesthouse as Day 5 (~£8-12/night)

• →Optional: sunrise camel ride at Sam Sand Dunes (~£10-15 via local operator)
• →Visit Patwon Ki Haveli and Salim Singh Ki Haveli (~£1-2 each)
• →Gadisar Lake at dawn (free)
• →Optional cooking class (~£8-12, bookable via GetYourGuide or locally)
• →Evening folk music at rooftop restaurant (free or small cover)

Catch the state bus or shared taxi from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur (~7-8 hours, ~£5-7 by RSRTC bus — book at the bus stand or online). Arrive in Jodhpur and check into the Brahmpol or clock tower area for the best access to the old city. Do a self-guided orientation walk through the old city's blue-painted lanes — completely free and endlessly photogenic. The Sardar Bazaar night market is lively and great for street food.

🚌RSRTC bus: Jaisalmer to Jodhpur (~£5-7, book at Jaisalmer bus stand)

🛏Cosy Guesthouse or similar in old city (~£8-12/night)

• →RSRTC state bus: Jaisalmer to Jodhpur (~7-8 hrs, ~£5-7)
• →Check into hostel near Clock Tower area (e.g. Cosy Guesthouse, ~£8-12/night)
• →Self-guided walk through blue-painted old city lanes (free)
• →Explore Sardar Bazaar — handicrafts, antiques, jewellery, carpets
• →Street food dinner near the clock tower (~£2-4)

Take an early morning RSRTC bus or shared taxi from Jodhpur to Udaipur (~5-6 hours, ~£6-8). Before leaving, if time allows, take a quick rickshaw up to Mehrangarh Fort (~£4 entry) for incredible sunrise views over the blue city — one of India's most impressive forts. Arrive in Udaipur by early afternoon, check in near the Lake Pichola area, and do a self-guided lakeside orientation walk. The views of the Lake Palace from the ghats are free and breathtaking.

🚌RSRTC bus: Jodhpur to Udaipur (~£6-8)

🛏Dream Heaven Guesthouse or Nukkad Guesthouse, Lake Pichola area (~£8-14/night)

• →Optional early visit to Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur (~£4 entry, incredible views)
• →RSRTC bus: Jodhpur to Udaipur (~5-6 hrs, ~£6-8)
• →Check into lakeside guesthouse (e.g. Dream Heaven or Nukkad Guesthouse, ~£8-14/night)
• →Self-guided walk along Lake Pichola ghats (free)
• →Views of the Lake Palace from Lal Ghat (free)

A full day to fall in love with Udaipur. Take a boat ride on Lake Pichola to Jag Mandir Island (~£3-5, tickets from the City Palace jetty — the Lake Palace hotel is private but views from Jag Mandir are stunning). Visit the City Palace (~£4 entry) and Jagdish Temple (free). The Saheliyon-ki-Bari garden is a bargain at virtually free. Book an Ayurvedic massage at a local spa (~£8-15), take a cooking class, or watch the free cultural dance show at Bagore-ki-Haveli in the evening.

🚌Walking and local auto-rickshaw (~£1-2 per ride)

🛏Same guesthouse as Day 8 (~£8-14/night)

• →Boat ride on Lake Pichola to Jag Mandir (~£3-5)
• →Visit City Palace and museum (~£4 entry)
• →Jagdish Temple (free, remove shoes)
• →Saheliyon-ki-Bari garden (~£0.50 entry)
• →Optional Ayurvedic massage (~£8-15 at local spa)
• →Evening cultural dance show at Bagore-ki-Haveli (~£1.50)

Take a direct bus or shared taxi from Udaipur to Pushkar (~5-6 hours, changing at Ajmer if needed, ~£6-9 total). Arrive in Pushkar and check into a guesthouse near the lake — a completely car-free town that's incredibly peaceful. Join a self-guided orientation walk to the ghats, the famous Brahma Temple (free entry, remove shoes), and the lakeside bazaars. Note: no meat or alcohol sold in Pushkar — embrace the veggie food culture! Optional camel sunset ride from town (~£4-6).

🚌Bus Udaipur–Ajmer–Pushkar (~£6-9 total, change at Ajmer bus stand)

🛏Hotel White House or similar lakeside guesthouse (~£7-11/night)

• →Bus: Udaipur to Pushkar via Ajmer (~5-6 hrs, ~£6-9)
• →Check into guesthouse near Pushkar Lake (e.g. Hotel White House, ~£7-11/night)
• →Self-guided walk to Pushkar Lake ghats and bathing areas (free — no photography near ghats)
• →Visit Brahma Temple — one of very few Brahma temples in the world (free)
• →Browse Pushkar bazaars for Rajasthani textiles and jewellery
• →Optional camel sunset ride (~£4-6)

Rise before dawn and hike up to Savitri Temple on the hilltop for a spectacular sunrise over Pushkar Lake — the hike takes about 30 minutes and is free. Then make your way to the off-the-beaten-track village of Tordi Sagar (~2.5 hours by local bus or shared taxi via Ajmer/Merta, ~£4-6). Tordi Sagar Heritage Hotel (run by a local family) offers village tours, potter and cobbler workshops, henna painting, and camel cart rides as part of an authentic rural stay package. Contact them directly to book.

🚌Shared taxi/local bus: Pushkar to Tordi Sagar (~£4-6)

🛏Tordi Sagar Heritage Hotel or homestay (~£12-18/night, meals often included)

• →Pre-dawn hike to Savitri Temple for sunrise (free, ~30 min hike)
• →Bus/shared taxi: Pushkar to Tordi Sagar (~2.5 hrs, ~£4-6)
• →Village tour with local guide at Tordi Sagar (included or ~£3-5)
• →Visit local potters, cobblers, and artisan workshops
• →Traditional henna painting session with local women (~£2-3)
• →Optional camel cart sunset ride into dunes (~£3-5)

Enjoy breakfast at your village homestay before making the ~3-4 hour journey to Jaipur by local bus or shared taxi (~£4-7). Check into a hostel in the old city area for easy access to the Pink City's highlights. Do a self-guided orientation walk through the old city's rose-pink streets — the entire old walled city is UNESCO-listed. The Johari Bazaar is world-famous for gems and jewellery — browse but bargain hard and only buy from reputable shops.

🚌Shared taxi or local bus: Tordi Sagar to Jaipur (~£4-7)

🛏Moustache Jaipur, Zostel Jaipur or similar (~£8-12/night dorm)

• →Breakfast at Tordi Sagar village stay
• →Shared taxi/bus: Tordi Sagar to Jaipur (~3-4 hrs, ~£4-7)
• →Check into hostel (e.g. Moustache Jaipur or Zostel, ~£8-12/night dorm)
• →Self-guided walk through Jaipur Pink City old town (free, UNESCO listed)
• →Browse Johari Bazaar for gems, Bapu Bazaar for textiles and slippers
• →Rooftop dinner with old city views (~£4-7)

An action-packed day of Jaipur's greatest hits. Take a local bus (bus 5 or shared auto, ~£0.50) to Amber Fort — arrive early to beat the crowds. Entry ~£5, audio guide recommended (~£2). Back in the city, visit the City Palace and museum (~£6), the Hawa Mahal facade (entry ~£1.50), and optionally the Jantar Mantar observatory (~£1.50). In the evening, catch a Bollywood film at the spectacular Art Deco Raj Mandir cinema (~£2-3 — book in person on the day).

🚌Local buses and shared autos within Jaipur (~£2-4 total for the day)

🛏Same hostel as Day 12 (~£8-12/night)

• →Local bus or shared auto to Amber Fort (~£0.50 each way)
• →Amber Fort entry and self-guided exploration (~£5 + optional audio guide £2)
• →City Palace and museum (~£6 entry)
• →Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) facade and interior (~£1.50)
• →Jantar Mantar UNESCO observatory (~£1.50)
• →Evening Bollywood film at Raj Mandir Art Deco cinema (~£2-3)

Take the early morning Shatabdi Express train from Jaipur to Agra Cantonment station (~4.5 hours, book on IRCTC, ~£8-12 in Chair Car class). Head straight to the Taj Mahal — buy your ticket at the gate (~£12 for foreign visitors, includes shoe covers and water). Go in the morning for the best light and fewer crowds. In the afternoon, take a cycle rickshaw (~£1) to Agra Red Fort (~£5 entry) — incredibly impressive and often overshadowed by the Taj. Round off with a visit to Itmad-ud-Daula ('Baby Taj', ~£2.50) — stunning marble inlay work.

🚌Shatabdi Express: Jaipur to Agra (~£8-12); cycle rickshaw within Agra (~£1-2 per trip)

🛏Hotel Kamal or similar Taj Ganj guesthouse (~£8-12/night)

• →Shatabdi Express: Jaipur to Agra Cantonment (~4.5 hrs, ~£8-12 Chair Car, book on IRCTC)
• →Check into guesthouse near Taj Ganj area (e.g. Hotel Kamal, ~£8-12/night)
• →Morning visit to Taj Mahal (~£12 entry — go early for best light)
• →Cycle rickshaw to Agra Red Fort (~£5 entry)
• →Visit Itmad-ud-Daula 'Baby Taj' (~£2.50 entry)
• →Rooftop dinner with Taj Mahal view at sunset (~£4-7)

A free morning to revisit any Agra highlights or simply relax. If you didn't catch the Taj at sunrise yesterday, this is your chance — it opens at dawn and early morning mist makes for magical photos. Otherwise, explore the Agra bazaars, browse marble inlay souvenirs (Agra is famous for them), or simply sip chai on a rooftop. In the evening, board the overnight Marudhar Express or Agra-Varanasi Superfast train (~13 hours, ~£8-12 in sleeper/AC3 class, book on IRCTC) to Varanasi.

🚌Overnight train: Agra to Varanasi (~13 hrs, ~£8-12 sleeper/AC3, book on IRCTC)

🛏Overnight train (sleeper berth)

• →Optional Taj Mahal sunrise revisit (ticket valid for same-day re-entry with same ticket)
• →Explore Agra's Kinari Bazaar for marble inlay souvenirs
• →Lunch at a local dhaba (~£2-3)
• →Relax at guesthouse rooftop with Taj views
• →Board overnight train to Varanasi (~13 hrs, ~£8-12 sleeper/AC3 on IRCTC)

Arrive in Varanasi in the morning. Take an auto-rickshaw or pre-paid taxi to the Godaulia area, the heart of the old city near the ghats (~£2-3). Check into a guesthouse with ghat views — many are perched right above the Ganges. Spend the day wandering the ancient alleyways between the 88 ghats — endlessly fascinating and completely free. In the evening, head to Dashashwamedh Ghat for the spectacular Ganga Aarti ceremony (free to watch from the ghat steps or from a rowing boat (~£2-3 per person) for the best vantage point. The candle and flower ceremony can be done independently from any ghat (~£0.50).

🚌Auto-rickshaw from Varanasi Junction to ghats (~£2-3)

🛏Stops Hostel Varanasi or Ganpati Guesthouse near the ghats (~£8-12/night)

• →Auto-rickshaw from Varanasi Junction to Godaulia/ghats area (~£2-3)
• →Check into ghat-view guesthouse (e.g. Stops Hostel Varanasi or Ganpati Guesthouse, ~£8-12/night)
• →Self-guided walk along the 88 ghats of Varanasi (free — deeply atmospheric)
• →Explore narrow alleyways and visit temple entrances (free)
• →Evening Ganga Aarti ceremony at Dashashwamedh Ghat (free from steps, or hire rowing boat ~£2-3)
• →Traditional candle and flower (diya) ceremony on the Ganges (~£0.50-1)

The single most unmissable experience in India: hire a rowing boat at 5am for a sunrise Ganges tour (~£3-5 per person — negotiate directly with boatmen at any ghat, Assi Ghat or Dashashwamedh Ghat are best). Watch dawn rituals, burning ghats, bathing pilgrims, and the sun rising over the river from the water. Spend the rest of the day exploring at your own pace — visit the nearby Buddhist site of Sarnath (~£3 train/bus + ~£2.50 entry to the Dhamek Stupa archaeological site), or simply get lost in the old city's labyrinthine lanes.

🚌Rowing boat hire (~£3-5); shared auto to Sarnath (~£1-1.50 each way)

🛏Same guesthouse as Day 16 (~£8-12/night)

• →Pre-dawn rowing boat hire for sunrise Ganges tour (~£3-5/person, negotiate at ghats)
• →Watch dawn bathing rituals and burning ghats ceremony from the river
• →Optional half-day trip to Sarnath — site of Buddha's first sermon (~£2-3 return by shared auto + ~£2.50 entry)
• →Visit Kashi Vishwanath Temple (Varanasi's holiest temple — free, leave bag and phone at cloak room)
• →Explore the silk weaving workshops Varanasi is famous for
• →Final evening on the ghats watching sunset over the Ganges (free)

A final full day to soak up the extraordinary energy of Varanasi — perhaps the most intense and spiritual city on earth. Visit the silk weaving district of Madanpura, browse the bead market near Vishwanath Gully, or take a yoga class on a ghat (many guesthouses offer these, ~£4-6). In the evening, board an overnight sleeper train back to Delhi (e.g. Varanasi–New Delhi Express, ~£8-12 sleeper/AC3, ~13-15 hours, book on IRCTC).

🚌Overnight train: Varanasi to New Delhi (~13-15 hrs, ~£8-12 sleeper/AC3, book on IRCTC)

🛏Overnight train (sleeper berth)

• →Morning yoga class on a ghat or at a guesthouse (~£4-6)
• →Visit Madanpura silk weaving workshops (free)
• →Browse Vishwanath Gully bead market
• →Final chai and snacks on the ghats (~£1-2)
• →Board overnight train: Varanasi to New Delhi (~£8-12 sleeper/AC3 on IRCTC)

Arrive back in Delhi in the morning. Check back into a hostel in Paharganj or try somewhere new in South Delhi (Hauz Khas Village is brilliant for cafes, boutiques, and nightlife). Spend your final day ticking off any Delhi highlights you missed on Day 1-2 — Humayun's Tomb (~£5 entry, UNESCO listed), the Qutab Minar complex (~£5 entry), or the Bahai Lotus Temple (free). This evening, celebrate your epic journey with a farewell dinner — splurge on a rooftop restaurant in Connaught Place or try the legendary butter chicken at Moti Mahal in Daryaganj.

🚌Delhi Metro all day (~£2-3 total)

🛏Moustache Hostel Delhi or similar (~£8-12/night dorm)

• →Check into Delhi hostel (~£8-12/night dorm)
• →Visit Humayun's Tomb UNESCO site (~£5 entry)
• →Qutab Minar complex (~£5 entry)
• →Bahai Lotus Temple (free entry, stunning architecture)
• →Shopping for last-minute souvenirs at Dilli Haat craft market (~£0.50 entry)
• →Farewell dinner at Connaught Place or Daryaganj (~£6-12)

Your adventure ends today in Delhi. Check out of your hostel (most allow late checkout for a small fee if needed) and make your way to Indira Gandhi International Airport on the Delhi Metro Airport Express (~£1.50 from New Delhi station). Reflect on 20 extraordinary days across Rajasthan and the Gangetic plains — deserts, forts, lakes, the Taj Mahal, and the sacred Ganges. India done independently, on your own terms, for a fraction of the tour price.

🚌Delhi Metro Airport Express to IGI Airport (~£1.50)

🛏N/A — departure day

• →Late breakfast at a Paharganj café
• →Delhi Metro Airport Express to IGI Airport (~£1.50)
• →Depart Delhi