End of the Earth: Self-Launched Patagonia

Land at Ezeiza (EZE) and take the Tienda León shuttle (~£9) or public bus 8/Manuel Tienda León combi into the city. Check into a hostel dorm in Palermo or San Telmo. Spend the afternoon walking Plaza de Mayo, the Casa Rosada and the Obelisco. Eat a cheap steak or empanada dinner. Note: Argentina's official exchange rate vs. the informal/card rate varies — paying by card often gets a favourable rate, but bring clean USD cash as backup, especially for the Patagonian leg.

🚌Airport shuttle to city ~£9; city on foot/subte

🛏Hostel dorm, Palermo or San Telmo (~£16)

• →Self-guided walk: Plaza de Mayo & Casa Rosada
• →Palermo or San Telmo wander

Early flight Buenos Aires–El Calafate (Aerolíneas Argentinas or JetSMART, book direct; watch the 15kg cabin/bag allowance — pay for checked luggage upfront). From El Calafate airport, take the shuttle or local bus to the El Calafate bus terminal and catch the ~3-hour public bus to El Chaltén (Chaltén Travel / Caltur, ~£20). Arrive in the tiny trekking village, sort your park entry wristband and check into a hostel or guesthouse. Do a short leg-stretcher to Mirador de los Cóndores for sunset over the Fitz Roy massif.

🚌Domestic flight ~£95; bus El Calafate→El Chaltén ~£20; local transfer ~£4

🛏Hostel dorm or guesthouse, El Chaltén (~£18)

• →Fitz Roy massif viewpoint: Mirador de los Cóndores
• →Independent hike prep / gear check

The big one, entirely self-guided — the trail from El Chaltén is well-marked and free to walk (Los Glaciares NP entry is now charged online; ~£8-10 seven-day pass). 21km return, ~8-10 hours, with a hard final 400m scree climb to the Laguna de los Tres lookout. If the weather clears you get the classic postcard view of Fitz Roy's granite spires over the turquoise lagoon. Pack layers, water and snacks — there's no food on the trail. Alternatively book a local guide through a Chaltén agency for ~£60 pp if you'd rather have one.

🚌On foot from town

🛏Hostel dorm or guesthouse, El Chaltén (~£18)

• →Self-guided Laguna de los Tres hike (21km return)
• →Los Glaciares National Park self-entry

Optional early morning short hike to Chorrillo del Salto waterfall or Laguna Capri (2-3 hours), then catch an afternoon public bus (~3h, ~£20) back to El Calafate. Settle into a hostel in the small centre and stock up on supplies — El Calafate is pricier than Buenos Aires. Book your Perito Moreno excursion for tomorrow (either a local agency minibus or the cheaper regular Lago Argentino bus that drops you at the park entrance).

🚌Public bus El Chaltén→El Calafate ~£20

🛏Hostel dorm, El Calafate (~£18)

• →Morning hike: Chorrillo del Salto or Laguna Capri
• →Book Perito Moreno transport locally

Take a local bus or shared minibus to Los Glaciares NP (~1.5h) and pay the park entrance (~£20). The extensive network of wooden boardwalks facing the glacier is free to walk and arguably the best view — watch and listen for calving ice. Optionally pay for the boat crossing in front of the glacier face (~£65 pp locally). Return to El Calafate in the afternoon. Budget more than you think here: Patagonia's park fees are steep by South American standards.

🚌Shared minibus/bus to the park ~£15 return

🛏Hostel dorm, El Calafate (~£18)

• →Perito Moreno boardwalk viewing
• →Optional boat trip to the glacier face

Book the public bus El Calafate → Puerto Natales (Cootra or Buses Pacheco, ~5-6h, ~£25). The route crosses the border at Cancha Carrera and rolls through empty steppe with guanacos and Andean condors — keep your passport handy for the Argentine exit and Chilean entry. Arrive in Puerto Natales, the gateway to Torres del Paine. Pick up any rental gear (sleeping bag, poles — cheaper here than in the park), pre-purchase your CONAF park ticket online, and confirm your bus/boat to the park for tomorrow.

🚌Public cross-border bus ~£25

🛏Hostel dorm, Puerto Natales (~£16)

• →Border crossing & Patagonian steppe scenery
• →Rent gear and buy CONAF park ticket in Puerto Natales

Early public bus or shared shuttle from Puerto Natales to the park's Laguna Amarga/El Torres entrance (~2.5h, ~£12). Hike from Hotel Las Torres up to Mirador Base Las Torres — ~19km return, 8-9 hours, with a steep final hour over moraine to the turquoise lagoon beneath the three granite towers. Sleep in a refugio dorm or rent a tent at Refugio El Chileno / Las Torres sector (book direct with the refugios months ahead — this is the bottleneck of the whole trip).

🚌Public bus Puerto Natales→park ~£12

🛏Refugio dorm or paid campsite with rental tent, Las Torres sector (~£40 including meals)

• →Hike to Mirador Base Las Torres
• →Torres del Paine self-entry (CONAF)

Hike down to Los Cuernos, then catch the daily catamaran across Lago Pehoé (Hielos Patagónicos, ~£28 one-way — book ahead) to Pudeto, or continue on foot if you're doing the full W. From Refugio Paine Grande, day-hike or trek into the French Valley to the Mirador Británico — the amphitheatre of granite walls is the most dramatic panorama in the park. If you're doing the shorter highlights version, base at Paine Grande or Sector Grey and shuttle back by catamaran plus bus at the end of the day.

🚌Catamaran ~£28; hiking

🛏Refugio dorm or campsite, Paine Grande sector (~£40)

• →Lago Pehoé catamaran crossing
• →French Valley viewpoint

Early hike to Mirador Grey for your first view of the immense Grey Glacier and its floating icebergs (~4-5h round trip from Paine Grande). If time and budget allow, the local boat to the glacier face costs ~£75 pp — otherwise save the money. Walk or shuttle back to Pudeto and catch the afternoon catamaran and public bus back to Puerto Natales. Hot shower, big dinner, laundry.

🚌Bus + catamaran ~£30

🛏Hostel dorm, Puerto Natales (~£16)

• →Hike to Mirador Grey
• →Optional Grey Glacier boat trip

This is the travel day: the daily bus Puerto Natales → Ushuaia (Buses Pacheco/Bus Sur, ~12-13 hours, ~£40) crosses the Magellan Strait by ferry and then re-crosses into Argentina at San Sebastián. Book online a few days ahead; bring snacks and your passport. Alternatively break the journey in Río Grande. Arrive Ushuaia late evening or overnight — check into a hostel in the centre, prepare for cold-and-windy Tierra del Fuego weather.

🚌Public bus including ferry ~£40

🛏Hostel dorm, Ushuaia (~£18)

• →Magellan Strait ferry crossing
• →Chile→Argentina border crossing

Take the local bus or shared taxi from Ushuaia to Tierra del Fuego National Park (~£12 return plus ~£10 park entry) and hike one of the marked trails — the Coastal Path from Bahía Lapataia is easy and gorgeous, or the tougher Senda del Turbal/Castorera loops. Back in town, visit the Maritime Museum and the Prison at the End of the World (~£18 combined). Evening: king crab or a lamb stew to celebrate making the end of the earth.

🚌Local bus to the park ~£12 return

🛏Hostel dorm, Ushuaia (~£18)

• →Self-guided hike in Tierra del Fuego NP
• →Maritime Museum & Prison at the End of the World

Book a Beagle Channel boat trip directly with a local Ushuaia operator (~£90-110 for the Isla Martillo/Martillo Island penguin landing or viewing trip — book a day or two ahead in high season). Afternoon free to walk the waterfront, the old port and the Beagle Channel sign, or ride the chairlift up Cerro Martial for the view. Optional horseback riding in the valley runs ~£80 pp if you booked ahead.

🚌On foot; port departure

🛏Hostel dorm, Ushuaia (~£18)

• →Beagle Channel boat trip with penguin colony
• →Optional Cerro Martial chairlift / viewpoint

Fly Ushuaia → Buenos Aires (direct ~3.5h, book early for the cheapest fare; note Ushuaia flights fill fast in summer). Return to your Palermo or San Telmo hostel. Evening: a group tango lesson in San Telmo (~£15) or, if you want the full show, a tango dinner show from an agency (~£70) — the DIY version is a milonga entry plus a bottle of wine. Late dinner, because Porteños never eat before 9pm.

🚌Domestic flight ~£105; airport bus ~£9

🛏Hostel dorm, Palermo or San Telmo (~£16)

• →Optional tango class or milonga in San Telmo
• →Optional La Boca/El Caminito wander

Spend the morning at the San Telmo Sunday market if your dates align, or wander La Boca's El Caminito (go in daylight, don't stray far off the tourist strip) and Recoleta Cemetery (free). Cheap cycle tour via a local operator ~£30 if you want it. Catch the airport shuttle for your international flight home.

🚌Airport shuttle ~£9

🛏—

• →La Boca & El Caminito
• →Recoleta Cemetery
• →Optional local bike tour