Self-Launched Patagonia: Buenos Aires, El Chaltén, Torres del Paine & Ushuaia

Fly into Ministro Pistarini International Airport (EZE). Take the Tienda León shuttle bus (~£12) or the cheaper Aerolíneas Argentinas shuttle to central Buenos Aires. Check into a hostel in Palermo or San Telmo. Spend the evening strolling San Telmo's cobblestone streets and grab dinner at a parrilla (steakhouse) — expect to pay £10–15 for a full meal with wine.

🚌Tienda León shuttle from EZE to city centre ~£12; or Aerolíneas bus ~£6

🛏El Hostel (San Telmo) or America del Sur Hostel — dorms from £12–18/night, private rooms from £35

• →Arrive and settle into hostel in San Telmo or Palermo
• →Evening stroll around San Telmo market area
• →Dinner at a local parrilla restaurant

Spend the day discovering Buenos Aires independently. The city is very walkable and public transport (Subte metro + buses) is cheap. Walk through colourful La Boca, historic San Telmo, and fashionable Palermo. Book a half-day city walking tour via GetYourGuide (~£15) or simply self-navigate with Google Maps. In the evening, consider a dinner and tango show in San Telmo (bookable on GetYourGuide, ~£40–60 optional).

🚌Subte metro day pass ~£2; walking

🛏El Hostel or America del Sur Hostel

• →Self-guided walk through La Boca, San Telmo and Palermo barrios
• →Visit Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada (free)
• →Optional: Buenos Aires city highlights tour via GetYourGuide (~£15)
• →Optional: Dinner and tango show in San Telmo (~£45)

Take a morning flight from Buenos Aires (AEP/EZE) to El Calafate (FTE) — book with Aerolíneas Argentinas or LATAM in advance for the best prices (~£80–120 one-way). On arrival, board the public bus from El Calafate bus terminal to El Chaltén (~3.5 hours, ~£10–12 with Chaltén Travel or Cal-Tur). El Chaltén is a small hiker's town with great views of Fitz Roy on arrival — the visitor centre provides free trail maps and a mandatory park briefing.

🚌Flight EZE/AEP–FTE ~£100 avg; public bus El Calafate–El Chaltén ~£11

🛏Rancho Grande Hostel or Patagonia Travellers Hostel — dorms ~£14, private rooms ~£40

• →Morning flight Buenos Aires to El Calafate (~£80–120)
• →Public bus El Calafate to El Chaltén (~£10–12)
• →Collect free trail maps from the El Chaltén visitor centre (mandatory stop)
• →Evening walk around the town with Fitz Roy views

This is one of South America's most iconic hikes and requires no guide — the trail is very well marked and free to access from the town. Start early (7am) to beat the wind and crowds. The route follows Río Blanco through lenga beech forest before climbing steeply to the glacial Laguna de los Tres, with jaw-dropping reflections of Fitz Roy's granite peaks. Return via Laguna Capri for more great views. Carry plenty of water, snacks, and windproof layers. Distance: 23km, 6–9 hours.

🚌Walking from town — no transport needed

🛏Rancho Grande Hostel or Patagonia Travellers Hostel

• →Full-day hike to Laguna de los Tres and Fitz Roy Basecamp (free, self-navigated)
• →Views of Piedras Blancas Glacier en route
• →Return via Laguna Capri lookout
• →Download trail on AllTrails or Gaia GPS before setting off

The Cagliero Glacier hike requires entry to Los Huemules Natural Reserve, a private estancia. Book access in advance directly at www.loshuemules.com (~£20pp entry). A shared remise taxi or shuttle from town to the trailhead costs ~£8 return. The trail follows the Diablo River Valley through native forest to the glacier, passing blue and green lagoons. Look out for condors and Magellanic woodpeckers. Distance: 16km, ~6 hours.

🚌Shared remise/shuttle to Los Huemules trailhead ~£8 return

🛏Rancho Grande Hostel or Patagonia Travellers Hostel

• →Trek to Cagliero Glacier through Los Huemules Natural Reserve (~£20 entry fee)
• →Walk along Diablo River Valley through native forest
• →Views of Blue and Green Lagoons
• →Wildlife spotting: condors, torrent ducks, woodpeckers

Rise early for the optional 3-hour hike to the Cerro Torre viewpoint — another free, well-marked trail starting directly from town. The trail follows the Fitz Roy River to dramatic views of the granite needle of Cerro Torre. After returning, pack up and take the afternoon public bus back to El Calafate (~3.5 hours, ~£11). Check into a hostel in El Calafate close to the bus terminal.

🚌Public bus El Chaltén–El Calafate ~£11

🛏America Hostel El Calafate or Hostel del Glaciar — dorms ~£14, private rooms ~£38

• →Optional early morning hike to Cerro Torre viewpoint (free, self-navigated, ~3 hours)
• →Views of Margarita Waterfall and the granite needle of Cerro Torre
• →Afternoon public bus El Chaltén to El Calafate (~£11)

Take a public bus or shared minibus from El Calafate to Perito Moreno Glacier (~80km, ~£10 return with local operators like Interlagos or Cal-Tur). National park entry fee is ~£18. A network of free walkways gives spectacular close-up views of the glacier's 5km face — no guide needed. For an even closer look, book an optional boat tour at the park (~£15) or a trekking-on-ice 'Big Ice' experience (bookable on GetYourGuide, ~£60–80). An unforgettable day.

🚌Shared minibus from El Calafate to glacier and back ~£10

🛏America Hostel El Calafate or Hostel del Glaciar

• →Bus/minibus to Perito Moreno Glacier (~£10 return)
• →Los Glaciares National Park entry (~£18)
• →Self-guided walkway circuit with glacier views (free with park entry)
• →Optional boat tour for closer glacier views (~£15)
• →Optional 'Big Ice' glacier trek via GetYourGuide (~£70)

Take a direct public bus from El Calafate to Puerto Natales, Chile (~5 hours, ~£18–22 with Bus Sur or Cootra — bring your passport for the border crossing). From Puerto Natales, a second bus enters Torres del Paine National Park (~£10, departing around noon — book ahead). National park entry for non-residents is ~£22. Check into accommodation near Lago del Toro or Laguna Amarga. An afternoon stroll near Laguna Amarga offers your first views of the iconic Paine Horns.

🚌Bus El Calafate–Puerto Natales ~£20; bus Puerto Natales–park ~£10

🛏Camping Torres or Hostal Las Torres area — dorms ~£16, camping ~£8

• →Public bus El Calafate to Puerto Natales, Chile (~£20, ~5 hours)
• →Bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine National Park (~£10)
• →Torres del Paine National Park entry (~£22)
• →Evening walk near Laguna Amarga with views of the Paine Massif

The highlight of the whole trip. This iconic trail begins at Hostería Las Torres and climbs through the Ascencio River valley, through native forest and moraine, to the glacial lake at the base of the three iconic granite towers. Start very early (6–7am) to catch the sunrise alpenglow on the towers. The trail is well-marked and requires no guide — download it on AllTrails beforehand. The final section is steep and rocky, requiring sure-footedness and windproof gear. Distance: 21km, 7–9 hours. Return via same route.

🚌Internal park bus or walk to trailhead ~£5

🛏Camping Torres or Hostal Las Torres area

• →Full-day hike to Mirador Las Torres base (free with park entry, self-navigated)
• →Sunrise views of the Torres del Paine granite towers (aim for early start)
• →Trek along the Ascencio River valley through lenga forest
• →Packed lunch from hostel or self-prepared

Take the morning catamaran across Lake Pehoé to Paine Grande (~30 mins, ~£20 return — book at the dock or via the park's concessionaire). From Paine Grande, hike into the spectacular French Valley (Valle del Francés), passing Lake Skottsberg to the hanging glacier viewpoint and on to Mirador Británico if conditions allow. The trail is well-marked and free to self-navigate. Distance: ~20km return from boat dock, ~8 hours. Return catamaran to original side in late afternoon.

🚌Catamaran Pudeto–Paine Grande return ~£20; internal park bus ~£5

🛏Camping Torres or Hostal Las Torres area

• →Morning catamaran across Lake Pehoé to Paine Grande (~£20 return)
• →Self-guided hike into Valle del Francés (free with park entry)
• →Views of hanging glacier and listen for avalanches
• →Hike to Mirador Británico if weather and energy allow
• →Return catamaran to Pudeto

This is a long travel day — the same routing used by the guided tour. Take the bus from Torres del Paine back to Puerto Natales (~£10), then onward bus to El Calafate (~£20). From El Calafate airport, fly to Ushuaia (USH) with Aerolíneas Argentinas (~£80–110). Alternatively, look for direct Puerto Natales–Ushuaia seasonal bus options (~£35) to save on the flight. Arrive in Ushuaia, the world's southernmost city, by evening.

🚌Buses ~£30 total; flight El Calafate–Ushuaia ~£90

🛏Freestyle Hostel Ushuaia or Yakush Hostel — dorms ~£15, private rooms ~£40

• →Bus Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales (~£10)
• →Bus Puerto Natales to El Calafate (~£20)
• →Flight El Calafate to Ushuaia (~£90 avg)
• →Check in and evening explore Ushuaia's colourful waterfront

Spend the morning in Tierra del Fuego National Park (~£10 entry), accessible by local bus from Ushuaia (~£8 return). Walk the coastal trail along Lapataia Bay, the symbolic end of the Americas (Ruta Nacional 3 terminates here), through mixed forest with views across the Beagle Channel to Chile. In the afternoon, take an optional Beagle Channel boat cruise to see penguin colonies, sea lions, and seabirds (bookable directly at the Ushuaia port or on GetYourGuide, ~£35–45).

🚌Local bus Ushuaia–Tierra del Fuego National Park return ~£8

🛏Freestyle Hostel Ushuaia or Yakush Hostel

• →Tierra del Fuego National Park entry (~£10)
• →Self-guided Coastal Walk and Lapataia Bay trail (end of Ruta 3 — end of the Americas)
• →Views across the Beagle Channel to Chile
• →Optional Beagle Channel boat cruise with penguin colony visit (~£40)

Spend the morning exploring Ushuaia — hike up towards the Martial Glacier (free, ~2 hours return) for panoramic views of the city and Beagle Channel, or visit the fascinating Museo del Fin del Mundo (End of the World Museum) in the former prison (~£8). Catch your afternoon flight back to Buenos Aires (Aeroparque/Jorge Newbery, AEP — ~£90–120 with Aerolíneas Argentinas or LATAM). Arrive in time for a final evening in Buenos Aires — head to Palermo for dinner and drinks.

🚌Flight USH–AEP ~£100

🛏El Hostel or America del Sur Hostel (San Telmo/Palermo)

• →Morning hike to Martial Glacier viewpoint (free)
• →Optional visit to Museo del Fin del Mundo / former prison (~£8)
• →Afternoon flight Ushuaia to Buenos Aires AEP (~£100 avg)
• →Final dinner in Palermo neighbourhood

Final morning in Buenos Aires before heading home. If your flight is in the afternoon or evening, make the most of it — visit the MALBA contemporary art museum (~£8), browse the San Telmo antiques market (Sundays), or simply relax with a flat white in a Palermo café. Take the Tienda León shuttle (~£12) or a remise taxi to EZE airport. Safe travels!

🚌Shuttle/taxi to EZE airport ~£15

🛏Check-out — no accommodation needed

• →Free morning to explore — San Telmo market, MALBA museum (~£8), or café in Palermo
• →Tienda León shuttle or remise taxi to EZE international airport (~£12–18)