Trek the Huayhuash Circuit in Peru — Self-Launched

Arrive into Lima's Jorge Chavez International Airport and take a taxi (~£10) or airport bus into Miraflores. Check into a budget hotel or hostel in the Miraflores neighbourhood. If you arrive early, explore the historic centre — the Main Plaza, Lima Cathedral and the catacombs beneath the San Francisco Church are all walkable. In the evening, take an Uber to a cevicheria for a traditional Peruvian dinner and sort out your kit for the trek ahead.

🚌Airport taxi or shuttle bus ~£10

🛏Budget hostel/hotel in Miraflores

• →Explore Miraflores and Barranco
• →Visit Lima historic centre — Main Plaza, Cathedral, San Francisco catacombs
• →Welcome dinner of ceviche and pisco sour

Take the Cruz del Sur or Movil Tours overnight/day bus from Lima to Huaraz (~£12-18, 8 hours) — the standard budget option instead of the internal flight. Huaraz sits at 3052m beneath the Cordillera Blanca, so take it easy on arrival. This afternoon, take a local combi (shared minibus) from Huaraz towards San Pedro, then hike ~45 minutes uphill to Wilcacocha Lake (3714m) and on to Huanca Punta viewpoint (3874m) with views of Huascaran (6768m), Peru's highest mountain.

🚌Lima–Huaraz bus ~£15; local combi/bus to trailhead ~£3

🛏Budget hostel/hotel in Huaraz

• →Acclimatisation hike to Wilcacocha Lake (3714m)
• →Huanca Punta viewpoint (3874m) with views of Huascaran
• →Explore Huaraz town

A full-day trip to the Chavin de Huantar UNESCO World Heritage Site, dating to ~3000 BCE. Several tour agencies in Huaraz run this day trip (~£20-25 including transport and guide), or you can DIY with local combis and colectivos. The route passes Querococha Lake and the Kawish Tunnel at 4550m, giving further altitude exposure. Explore the Temple of Chavin's underground tunnels and chambers, carved stone heads and the village museum before returning to Huaraz for the night.

🚌Shared tour van/colectivo ~£20 (or local buses cheaper)

🛏Budget hostel/hotel in Huaraz

• →Visit Chavin de Huantar UNESCO World Heritage Site
• →Explore Temple of Chavin underground tunnels
• →Visit the Chavin village museum

Spend the morning finalising your Huayhuash arrangements in Huaraz — hiring a muleteer, mules/arrieros (typically ~£15-20 per day total for pack animals and a cook), buying food supplies and confirming your route maps. The full circuit typically requires hiring support; most independent trekkers use a licensed muleteer from agencies in Huaraz. Then drive southeast through Andean villages by bus/colectivo (~£10) toward Llamac or Queropalca, stopping en route near Huanuco Pampa Inca site if possible, before setting first camp at around 3830m.

🚌Colectivo/bus Huaraz→Queropalca ~£10

🛏Wild camping (tent)

• →Hire muleteer/mules and buy circuit supplies in Huaraz
• →Stop at Huanuco Pampa Inca site
• →First night under canvas at Queropalca (3830m)

The Huayhuash Circuit begins with a steady introduction. From the Andean village of Queropalca (3800m), cross open high grasslands where local communities herd cattle and sheep. Follow a broad glacial valley through wetlands and streams, with first clear views of Jirishanca and Ninashanca on the horizon. After ~5 hours and 14km, gain height gradually to ~4150m and camp at Janca, set directly below Jirishanca — at sunrise the peak glows gold and red above your tent.

🚌On foot

🛏Wild camping at Janca (~4150m)

• →Start circuit from Queropalca (3800m)
• →Hike broad glacial valley with views of Jirishanca and Ninashanca
• →Camp below Jirishanca

Cross Carhuac Pass (4625m) with a sustained climb that builds gradually. As you gain height, Yerupaja (6634m) dominates the skyline with its steep ice walls. From the top, descend into a hanging valley where your first view of Laguna Carhuacocha appears — deep blue-green water edged by glaciers. Camp at 4152m beside the lake beneath a ring of ice faces. Roughly 5-6 hours, 10km, 390m up, 550m down.

🚌On foot

🛏Wild camping beside Laguna Carhuacocha (4152m)

• →Cross Carhuac Pass (4625m)
• →Views of Yerupaja (6634m)
• →Camp beside Laguna Carhuacocha

Set an alarm for an early start — sunrise over Carhuacocha and the peaks is staggering. The day involves a long, steady climb past three glacial lakes (Gangrajanca, Siula, Quesillacocha) with Yerupaja, Yerupaja Chico, Siula Grande, Jirishanca, Santa Rosa and Carnicero lining the route. The final push to Siula Pass (4810m) is steep and rocky. Descend to Huayhuash Camp (4340m) beneath Mount Trapecio. One of the most demanding days: 8-9 hours, 14km, 920m up, 620m down.

🚌On foot

🛏Wild camping at Huayhuash Camp (4340m)

• →Sunrise over Carhuacocha
• →Cross Siula Pass (4810m)
• →Pass three glacial lakes

A steadier day after yesterday's effort. A gradual three-hour climb leads to Portachuelo de Huayhuash Pass (4778m), the watershed between the Amazon basin and the Pacific. From the pass descend through a wide green valley past Viconga Lake where alpacas graze, before reaching natural thermal baths at 4367m. Camp nearby and soak weary legs in the hot water. Roughly 6 hours, 12km, 540m up, 500m down.

🚌On foot

🛏Wild camping near thermal baths (4367m)

• →Cross Portachuelo de Huayhuash Pass (4778m)
• →Descend past Viconga Lake
• →Soak in natural thermal baths at 4367m

The circuit crosses into serious high-altitude terrain. The ascent to Cuyoc Pass (5047m) is steep and unrelenting — a proper mountain effort. The descent is rocky and demands careful footwork before the terrain eases into the valley leading to Pampa Cuyoc camp (4547m). You'll feel the altitude today; take it at your own pace. Roughly 6 hours, 9km, 710m up, 520m down.

🚌On foot

🛏Wild camping at Pampa Cuyoc (4547m)

• →Climb Cuyoc Pass (5047m)
• →Descend into valley toward Pampa Cuyoc

A second consecutive day above 5000m. The climb to Santa Rosa Pass (5057m) starts steeply and doesn't relent — it's the highest pass on the entire circuit. Views from the top are extraordinary: Yerupaja, Siula Grande, Sarapo, Rasac and Jurau spread across the horizon. Descend through scree to Cutatambo Camp (4250m) in the Calinca Valley — a stone's throw from where Joe Simpson based his legendary 1985 Siula Grande ascent made famous in Touching the Void. Roughly 5-6 hours, 5km, 630m up, 840m down.

🚌On foot

🛏Wild camping at Cutatambo (4250m)

• →Cross Santa Rosa Pass (5057m) — highest point on circuit
• →Views of Yerupaja, Siula Grande, Sarapo
• →Camp in Calinca Valley near Touching the Void history

After two consecutive days above 5000m, take a proper rest day. Stay in camp to read, write, sleep and stare at the peaks — or, if you're willing, hike up to Cerro Gran Vista, a panoramic lookout where Siula Grande, Yerupaja and Sarapo line the horizon. Cutatambo is surrounded by glaciers and steep ice-covered faces rising above the valley; a beautiful place to slow down.

🚌On foot

🛏Wild camping at Cutatambo (4250m)

• →Full rest day
• →Optional hike to Cerro Gran Vista viewpoint

Make no mistake: today is the toughest day on the Huayhuash. Retrace steps down the Sarapococha Valley to the remote village of Huayllapa (3577m), where cultivated fields and alpine waterfalls mark a brief return to lower ground. Then begins a long, steep afternoon climb, often in warm conditions, back up to the high grazing meadow at Huatiac (4320m) in the shadow of Diablo Mudo, the 'Dumb Devil'. Dig in and keep moving. Roughly 8-9 hours, 16km, 920m up, 240m down.

🚌On foot

🛏Wild camping at Huatiac (4320m)

• →Descend Sarapococha Valley to Huayllapa village
• →Steep climb to Huatiac meadow (4320m)

After yesterday's epic, today is a welcome change of pace. Cross Punta Tapush Pass (4770m) on a relatively short and steady route, followed by an easy descent to camp at Gashpapampa (4520m). From camp, watch the sun drop behind Diablo Mudo for one of the finest sunsets on the circuit. Roughly 4 hours, 6km, 540m up, 240m down.

🚌On foot

🛏Wild camping at Gashpapampa (4520m)

• →Cross Punta Tapush Pass (4770m)
• →Sunset views of Diablo Mudo

The last major day of the circuit. Descend through quenual (paper bark) forest into the Angoshcancha Valley before the final climb: the scree-covered Yaucha Pass (4850m). From the top you get one of the best views of the Huayhuash with the full chain of peaks and long-distance vistas toward the Cordillera Blanca — keep an eye out for Andean condors. A long descent leads to Laguna Jahuacocha, widely considered one of the most beautiful lakes in the Andes with turquoise water beneath Yerupaja and Jirishanca. Final night camping on the circuit. Roughly 4-5 hours, 9km, 470m up, 1070m down.

🚌On foot

🛏Wild camping beside Laguna Jahuacocha

• →Cross Yaucha Pass (4850m)
• →Spot Andean condors
• →Camp beside Laguna Jahuacocha

Awake to the final morning on the circuit and leave the shores of Jahuacocha, looking back at Yerupaja and Jirishanca before following the trail down through a wide Andean valley of grasslands and scattered rural homes. After ~5km reach Pukatzaka, where a shared van or colectivo transfers you to Chiquian, the small Andean gateway town to the Huayhuash. In the evening celebrate with a pachamanca — a traditional Andean meal cooked underground with hot stones — and sleep in a small guesthouse or hostal in the village, a welcome return to a bed.

🚌Shared van/colectivo Pukatzaka→Chiquian ~£5

🛏Guesthouse/hostal in Chiquian

• →Final 5km hike out of the circuit
• →Celebrate with a pachamanca feast
• →Stay in Chiquian guesthouse

Tuck into breakfast at the guesthouse, then take a local bus from Chiquian back to Lima (via Huaraz or direct, ~£12-18, 6-8 hours), arriving in the afternoon in time for evening flights. You've completed 150km of Andean trail, eight passes and two weeks above 4000m. If you'd like to extend your stay, additional nights in Lima are easy to arrange independently.

🚌Bus Chiquian→Lima ~£15

🛏Not included (fly home)

• →Return journey to Lima
• →Fly home from Jorge Chavez Airport