Real Rajasthan: Self-Launched 16-Day India Adventure

Touch down in Delhi and get your bearings. Check in to your hostel or budget hotel in the Paharganj or Karol Bagh area — both are well-connected and backpacker-friendly. If you arrive with time to spare, take a walk to the Red Fort (entry ~£6), Humayun's Tomb (£6) or the towering Qutub Minar (£6) to shake off the jet lag. In the evening, head out for a plate of butter chicken or a vegetarian thali at one of the countless dhabas (local eateries) around Paharganj — budget around £3–5 for a full meal. Get an early night ahead of a packed day tomorrow.

🚌From Indira Gandhi International Airport: take the Delhi Metro Airport Express to New Delhi station (~£2, 20 mins). Paharganj is a 5-min walk from the station exit.

🛏Zostel Delhi or Moustache Hostel Delhi (dorm ~£8–12/night, private ~£18–25/night)

• →Optional: Red Fort — book direct, entry ~£6
• →Optional: Humayun's Tomb — book direct, entry ~£6
• →Optional: Qutub Minar — book direct, entry ~£6
• →Explore Paharganj market and grab street food for dinner

Spend the day exploring Old Delhi on foot and by bicycle rickshaw — one of the great sensory experiences of India. Start at Jama Masjid, Delhi's largest mosque (free entry, donations welcome). Walk north through the spice-filled lanes of Chandni Chowk to Sheeshganj Gurudwara (Sikh temple), where all are welcome regardless of religion or gender — you can even try your hand at making chapati in the community kitchen, which is free. Hire a bicycle rickshaw from outside Jama Masjid (~£2–3 for 30 mins) to explore the back alleys. In the evening, take the overnight train to Bikaner — book well in advance via IRCTC (Indian Railways website) or a local travel agent. Sleeper class is ~£8–12; 3AC air-conditioned class is ~£15. Journey time: ~8 hours.

🚌Overnight train from Delhi (Old Delhi Station or New Delhi Station) to Bikaner Junction. Book via IRCTC.co.in — 3AC ~£15, Sleeper ~£8. Departs typically 9–11pm, arrives Bikaner ~6–7am.

🛏Overnight Train (3AC sleeper class recommended)

• →Jama Masjid — free entry (small camera fee may apply)
• →Sheeshganj Gurudwara — free, try chapati-making in the community kitchen
• →Bicycle rickshaw ride through Old Delhi — negotiate ~£2–3 per ride
• →Chandni Chowk street food crawl — budget £3–5
• →Book Old Delhi walking tour via GetYourGuide if preferred (~£15–20pp)

Arrive into Bikaner in the morning, check in to your guesthouse and freshen up. Bikaner is a wonderfully underrated Rajasthani city, famous for its red sandstone forts and palaces and its snack food (bhujia — spiced chickpea chips — was invented here). Take a self-guided orientation walk through the old city: wander the bazaars, spot the ornately carved havelis (merchant mansions), and pick up a packet of bhujia from one of the many local shops. In the afternoon, consider hopping in a shared auto-rickshaw or tuk-tuk for a tour of the old city (~£3–5 for a hired tuk-tuk for an hour). End the day with a thali dinner at a local restaurant — budget £2–4.

🚌Arrive by overnight train. Bikaner Junction is central — tuk-tuk to guesthouse ~£1–2.

🛏Vino Paying Guest House or Harasar Haveli (budget guesthouse ~£12–20/night)

• →Self-guided walk through Bikaner Old City and bazaars
• →Spot the ornate havelis of the old merchant quarter
• →Tuk-tuk tour of Old City — negotiate ~£3–5 for 1 hour
• →Try bhujia (spiced chickpea chips) — local specialty, buy from street stalls
• →Thali dinner at a local dhaba — ~£2–4

A full day in Bikaner. In the morning, visit the magnificent Junagarh Fort — unlike most Rajasthani forts, it was never conquered. Entry is ~£5 (INR 600) and includes a guided tour. Explore the opulent palaces, temples and galleries within. Afterwards, stroll along Kote Gate and try the local sweet drink Chunilal sharbat from street vendors. In the evening, book a local cooking demonstration experience — several guesthouses in Bikaner (including Vino PG House) can arrange visits to local families for chai and chapati making, similar to the included Intrepid activity, typically for ~£8–12pp. You'll learn to make chai, roll chapati, and share dinner with the family. Book via your guesthouse or search GetYourGuide for 'Bikaner cooking class'.

🚌Walk or tuk-tuk within Bikaner (~£1–2).

🛏Vino Paying Guest House or Harasar Haveli (budget guesthouse ~£12–20/night)

• →Junagarh Fort — entry ~£5 (INR 600), guided tour included in ticket
• →Try Chunilal sharbat (sweet floral cordial) from street vendors
• →Evening cooking demonstration with local family — ~£8–12pp (book via guesthouse or GetYourGuide)
• →Dinner with local family included in cooking experience

Take the morning train from Bikaner to Jaisalmer — the 'Golden City', a stunning medieval fort rising out of the Thar Desert. Book via IRCTC; Sleeper class ~£6–8, journey ~5–6 hours. On arrival, check in to a guesthouse inside or near the fort walls — staying inside the living fort is a unique experience. In the afternoon, explore the fort's labyrinthine lanes, lined with Jain temples, havelis and rooftop cafes. Your leader-style orientation walk is easy to self-guide here — the fort is compact and very walkable. Visit the Patwon Ki Haveli (ornate merchant mansion, entry ~£2) and browse the market stalls. Watch the sunset from the fort ramparts — free and spectacular.

🚌Train from Bikaner to Jaisalmer. Book via IRCTC.co.in — Sleeper ~£6–8, 3AC ~£12. Journey ~5–6 hours.

🛏Hotel Shahi Palace or Moustache Jaisalmer (budget guesthouse inside or near fort, ~£10–18/night)

• →Self-guided walk through Jaisalmer Fort — free to enter the fort itself
• →Visit Patwon Ki Haveli — entry ~£2
• →Optional: Jaisalmer Folklore Museum — ~£4 (INR 500)
• →Sunset from the fort ramparts — free
• →Rooftop dinner with fort views — budget ~£4–6

Spend the morning exploring more of Jaisalmer — browse the colourful bazaars and pick up last-minute supplies. In the afternoon, head out to the Thar Desert for an overnight dune camp. This is easily bookable independently: most guesthouses in Jaisalmer can arrange desert camps, or book directly with operators like Desert Camp Jaisalmer or via GetYourGuide. A typical package includes 4WD transfer from Jaisalmer to the dunes (~1 hour), a sunset camel ride, vegetarian campfire dinner (dal, rice, chapati, veggies), live folk music, and a bed under the stars with mattress and blankets — all for approximately £25–40pp. This is one of the true highlights of Rajasthan.

🚌4WD transfer from Jaisalmer to desert camp and back — included in camp price. Jaisalmer to dunes ~1 hour each way.

🛏Thar Desert overnight camp (basic open-air camp with mattress, pillow, blankets — included in camp package ~£25–40pp)

• →Morning: explore Jaisalmer bazaars and fort
• →Afternoon 4WD transfer to Thar Desert dunes — included in camp package
• →Sunset camel ride on the dunes — included in camp package
• →Vegetarian campfire dinner — included in camp package
• →Sleep under the stars on open mattresses — included in camp package
• →Book via GetYourGuide, Klook, or direct with guesthouse (~£25–40pp total)

Wake before dawn to watch the desert sunrise — one of the most memorable moments of the trip. After a simple breakfast at camp and a morning of golden desert light, the 4WD will take you back to Jaisalmer. Spend a couple of hours relaxing or exploring before catching the train to Jodhpur, the 'Blue City'. Journey time is approximately 5–6 hours; book 3AC class on IRCTC (~£10–14). On arrival in Jodhpur, check in to a guesthouse in the old city — try to find one with rooftop views of Mehrangarh Fort, which is dramatically illuminated at night. Grab dinner at a rooftop restaurant — budget £4–6.

🚌Train from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur. Book via IRCTC.co.in — 3AC ~£10–14, Sleeper ~£6. Journey ~5–6 hours.

🛏Pal Haveli or Cosy Hostel Jodhpur (budget guesthouse/hostel in old city ~£12–22/night)

• →Desert sunrise — free, included in camp experience
• →Simple breakfast at desert camp — included
• →Return 4WD transfer to Jaisalmer — included in camp package
• →Free time in Jaisalmer before train
• →Arrive Jodhpur and explore the blue-painted old city on foot

A full free day to explore the Blue City. Start with Mehrangarh Fort — arguably the most impressive fort in all of Rajasthan, sitting dramatically on a rocky hill above the city. Entry is ~£7 (INR 800) and includes an excellent audio guide. The fort museum is superb, and the views over the blue-painted houses of the old city are incredible. Descend into the old town and spend the afternoon bargaining at Sadar Bazaar — packed with spices, textiles, bangles and street food. Don't miss the street snacks: mawa kachori (sweet pastry), pyaaz kachori (onion pastry) and mirchi vada (chilli fritter). Book a guided walking tour via GetYourGuide if you'd like structured commentary (~£15–20pp).

🚌Walk or shared auto-rickshaw within Jodhpur old city (~£1–2).

🛏Pal Haveli or Cosy Hostel Jodhpur (budget guesthouse/hostel in old city ~£12–22/night)

• →Mehrangarh Fort — entry ~£7 (INR 800), audio guide included in ticket
• →Self-guided walk through the blue-painted old city
• →Sadar Bazaar — free to browse, bargain for textiles, spices and souvenirs
• →Street food: pyaaz kachori, mawa kachori, mirchi vada — ~£1–2
• →Optional: Bishnoi village day trip — bookable via GetYourGuide or local agents (~£15–20pp)
• →Optional: leader-style walking tour via GetYourGuide (~£15–20pp)

Today, venture off the tourist trail to the small village of Khinwara, roughly halfway between Jodhpur and Udaipur. This is a highlight of the original tour and easy to replicate independently. Book a heritage homestay directly — try Rawla Khinwara (a heritage property run by a local family, rooms from ~£20–35/night) or search Airbnb/Booking.com for 'Khinwara homestay'. The family can arrange dinner for an additional ~£5–8pp. Spend the afternoon relaxing, chatting with your hosts and soaking up the slow pace of rural Rajasthan. Optionally, arrange a visit to a local farm through your hosts (~£4–6pp).

🚌Shared taxi or private cab from Jodhpur to Khinwara (~3 hours, ~£8–15pp shared, ~£25–35 private — split between group). No direct public bus; a private cab is the most practical option.

🛏Rawla Khinwara or similar heritage homestay (~£20–35/night, book via Booking.com or direct)

• →Heritage homestay experience with local family — included in accommodation
• →Explore the surrounding village on foot — free
• →Optional: local farm visit arranged through hosts — ~£4–6pp
• →Dinner with hosts — ~£5–8pp extra, or often included in homestay package

Say farewell to your Khinwara hosts and travel on to Udaipur — widely considered India's most romantic city. Marble palaces, rolling hills and shimmering lakes make it one of the most photogenic places in the country. Check in to a guesthouse with lake views if possible. In the afternoon, take a self-guided walk through the old city's winding alleyways, browsing miniature paintings, leather goods and silver jewellery. As the sun sets, take a boat ride on Lake Pichola for views of the Lake Palace and Jag Mandir Island — tickets from the City Palace jetty, ~£4 (INR 400–500). End the day with dinner on a rooftop restaurant overlooking the lake.

🚌Shared taxi or bus from Khinwara to Udaipur (~3 hours). RSRTC state bus from nearby towns ~£3–5; shared cab ~£6–10pp.

🛏Zostel Udaipur or Nukkad Hostel (dorm ~£8–12, private ~£18–28, lakeside views available)

• →Self-guided walk through Udaipur old city — free
• →Lake Pichola sunset boat ride — ~£4 (INR 400–500), buy tickets at City Palace jetty
• →Browse miniature painting galleries and silver jewellery shops
• →Rooftop dinner overlooking the lake — ~£5–8

A full free day in Udaipur. Start with the City Palace — one of the largest royal palace complexes in Rajasthan, crammed with vivid murals, antiques, royal artefacts and terraced gardens overlooking the lake. Entry ~£8 (INR 800–900, check current rates). In the afternoon, join a hands-on cooking class — Udaipur has several excellent options. Chef Vijay's Cooking Class is a popular independently bookable option (book via GetYourGuide or direct, ~£18–25pp) where you'll learn to cook a full Indian meal from scratch. Alternatively, book via Klook. In the evening, stroll the old city and pick up a lassi or chai from a street stall.

🚌Walk or auto-rickshaw within Udaipur (~£1–2).

🛏Zostel Udaipur or Nukkad Hostel (dorm ~£8–12, private ~£18–28)

• →City Palace — entry ~£8 (INR 800–900), self-guided or with audio guide
• →Hands-on Indian cooking class — ~£18–25pp (book via GetYourGuide or Klook)
• →Optional: Lake Pichola boat ride if not done yesterday — ~£4
• →Evening stroll through old city — free

Take an early morning train from Udaipur to Jaipur — book the Mewar Express or Chetak Express via IRCTC (3AC ~£12–18, journey ~6–8 hours). On arrival, check in to a hostel near the Pink City's old town. In the afternoon, take a self-guided walk through the bazaars — Johari Bazaar (gems and jewellery), Bapu Bazaar (textiles) and Nehru Bazaar (shoes and leather) are all nearby. Drop by the City Palace complex for a wander (entry to museum ~£10). In the evening, splash out on a Bollywood blockbuster at the legendary Raj Mandir Cinema — one of the most ornate cinemas in Asia. Tickets from the box office ~£3 (INR 300–400); arrive 30 mins early to queue.

🚌Train from Udaipur to Jaipur. Mewar Express or Chetak Express via IRCTC.co.in — 3AC ~£12–18. Journey ~6–8 hours.

🛏Zostel Jaipur or Moustache Hostel Jaipur (dorm ~£8–12, private ~£18–28/night)

• →Self-guided bazaar walk: Johari Bazaar, Bapu Bazaar, Nehru Bazaar — free to browse
• →City Palace exterior and Jantar Mantar area walk — free from outside
• →Optional: City Palace museum entry ~£10 (INR 1,200)
• →Evening Bollywood film at Raj Mandir Cinema — ~£3 (INR 300–400), buy at box office
• →Leader-style market tour available via GetYourGuide (~£15–20pp)

A packed day of Jaipur highlights. Start early if you've booked a hot air balloon ride over the Pink City — operators like Sky Waltz or Jaipur Balloon Safari offer flights from September to April (~£180–220pp, book direct or via GetYourGuide well in advance). Otherwise, head to the photogenic Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) at dawn for the best photos — entry ~£2. Then, take a shared auto-rickshaw or tuk-tuk out to Amber Fort (~30 mins, ~£2–3). Entry to Amber Fort is ~£8 (INR 750–800); the Sheesh Mahal (hall of mirrors) inside is not to be missed. Back in Jaipur, try raj kachori chaat for lunch from a street stall (~£1) and cool off with a famous lassi from Lassiwala on MI Road.

🚌Shared auto-rickshaw to Amber Fort ~£2–3 each way. Tuk-tuk around city ~£1–3.

🛏Zostel Jaipur or Moustache Hostel Jaipur (dorm ~£8–12, private ~£18–28/night)

• →Optional: Hot air balloon over Jaipur — ~£180–220pp (book via GetYourGuide or Sky Waltz directly; Sept–Apr only)
• →Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) — entry ~£2 (INR 200)
• →Amber Fort — entry ~£8 (INR 750–800), includes Sheesh Mahal
• →Raj kachori chaat street food — ~£1
• →Lassi at Lassiwala, MI Road — ~£1
• →Optional: Bollywood dance class via GetYourGuide ~£10–15pp

Take a public bus or shared minibus from Jaipur to Agra — RSRTC state buses depart regularly from Sindhi Camp Bus Stand (~£5–8, ~4–5 hours). Alternatively, book a seat on a tourist shuttle via Make My Trip or 12Go.asia. On arrival in Agra, head straight to the Taj Mahal before it closes (open sunrise to sunset, closed Fridays). Entry for foreign tourists is ~£12 (INR 1,100). Arrive in the late afternoon for the golden light on the white marble. Spend at least 2 hours exploring the complex — the best views are from the reflecting pool directly in front of the main gateway. Afterwards, jump on a shared e-rickshaw to Mehtab Bagh across the river for sunset views of the Taj from behind (~£1–2).

🚌Public RSRTC bus from Jaipur (Sindhi Camp Bus Stand) to Agra Idgah Bus Stand ~£5–8. Journey ~4–5 hours. Alternatively, Jaipur to Agra by train via IRCTC ~£8–12.

🛏Zostel Agra or Hotel Kamal (budget hotel near Taj Mahal ~£12–22/night)

• →Taj Mahal — entry ~£12 (INR 1,100), book online via asi.payumoney.com to avoid queues
• →Taj Mahal guided tour via GetYourGuide or Klook (~£15–20pp, guide meets you at gate)
• →Mehtab Bagh sunset viewpoint across the river — entry ~£2
• →Optional: Akbar's Mausoleum at Sikandra — entry ~£4 (INR 310), shared auto ~£2

Rise before dawn for the most magical Taj Mahal experience — the monument at sunrise is one of the most breathtaking sights on earth. Head to the East Gate early (gates open at sunrise); your entry ticket from yesterday is valid for one visit only, so purchase a new ticket (~£12) or book a sunrise tour via GetYourGuide. After soaking up the early morning light, grab breakfast at a cafe on Taj Ganj and then head to Agra Cantonment railway station. Take the Gatimaan Express or Shatabdi Express back to Delhi — fast, comfortable trains (~£10–18 in CC/Chair Car class, journey ~1.5–2 hours). Arrive in Delhi by midday and spend the afternoon resting or doing a final lap of your favourite spots. Head out for a last celebratory dinner — perhaps a rooftop meal in Connaught Place.

🚌Tuk-tuk from guesthouse to Agra Cantonment Station ~£2. Gatimaan Express or Shatabdi Express, Agra Cantt to Hazrat Nizamuddin/New Delhi — Chair Car ~£10–18 via IRCTC. Journey ~1.5–2 hours.

🛏Hotel Rak International or Moustache Hostel Delhi (~£15–25/night)

• →Taj Mahal at sunrise — new entry ticket ~£12 (INR 1,100)
• →Breakfast in Taj Ganj area — ~£2–3
• →Optional: Agra Fort — entry ~£6 (INR 550), 10-min tuk-tuk from Taj
• →Farewell dinner in Delhi — ~£5–8 at a mid-range restaurant

Your adventure comes to an end today. Check out of your hotel and head to the airport. If your flight is in the afternoon or evening, you have time for a final chai and a last wander around Connaught Place or Khan Market. The Delhi Metro Airport Express runs from New Delhi station directly to the international terminal — ~£2, 20 minutes. Safe travels, and namaste!

🚌Delhi Metro Airport Express from New Delhi Station to IGI Airport — ~£2, 20 mins.

🛏Check out — no accommodation needed

• →Final breakfast and chai at a local cafe — ~£2–3
• →Optional: last-minute shopping at Connaught Place or Khan Market
• →Delhi Metro Airport Express to IGI Airport — ~£2 (20 mins)