Royal Rajasthan on a Backpacker Budget: Delhi to Agra Self-Launched

Arrive and check into a hostel in Paharganj or the quieter Majnu ka Tila area. In the afternoon take the Yellow Line metro to Chandni Chowk and hire a cycle rickshaw for an hour (negotiate ₹300-400 / ~£3-4) to loop the Kinari Bazaar wedding lanes and Khari Baoli spice market. Walk to Jama Masjid (₹50 entry, ~£0.50; cover shoulders and legs, or rent a robe for ₹100). Finish at Gurudwara Bangla Sahib for the langar kitchen and dusk lighting. If time allows, do a self-guided walk past the Red Fort's Lahori Gate and the Raj Ghat Gandhi memorial. A GetYourGuide Old Delhi food walk (~£15-20) is a good optional upgrade for the evening.

🚌Airport Metro Express (~£1.80) or prepaid taxi (~£4-5); metro day of travel under £2

🛏Hostel dorm or budget private room, Paharganj (e.g. Madpackers or Smyle Inn) — £8-14

• →Cycle rickshaw ride through Chandni Chowk and Kinari Bazaar
• →Jama Masjid
• →Khari Baoli spice market
• →Gurudwara Bangla Sahib
• →Red Fort exterior and Raj Ghat

Do the southern monument belt independently — all reachable on the Yellow Line. Start early at Qutub Minar (₹35, ~£0.35) before the crowds, then Humayun's Tomb (₹35) and the Lodhi Garden stroll. Late afternoon head to the Lotus Temple (free, closed Mondays) — note it's a Bahá'í house of worship, so expect a short queue and silence inside. Book your onward train tickets today at the IRCTC counter or on the RailYatri/IRCTC app if you haven't already (Delhi–Jaipur or Delhi–Nawalgarh sector). Eat dinner at a Paharganj thali joint (~£4).

🚌Delhi metro day pass ~£2; autos between metro and sites ~£3 total

🛏Same Delhi hostel — £8-14

• →Qutub Minar
• →Humayun's Tomb
• →Lodhi Garden
• →Lotus Temple

Take a morning train from Delhi to Nawalgarh or Jhunjhunu (3-4 hrs, sleeper/chair car ~£4-6), then a shared jeep or bus the last 30-45 mins to Mandawa (~£1). Check into a Shekhawati haveli guesthouse — often a converted merchant mansion with frescoed walls. Spend the afternoon wandering the painted havelis of Mandawa on foot: the Gulab Rai Ladia and Mohan Lal Saraf havelis are the standouts, plus the small fort. A local guide at the gate costs ₹300-500 (~£3-5) and is well worth it for the fresco stories.

🚌Delhi–Nawalgarh train ~£5, shared jeep to Mandawa ~£1

🛏Haveli guesthouse in Mandawa (e.g. Hotel Mandawa Haveli budget rooms) — £12-18

• →Shekhawati painted havelis walk
• →Mandawa Fort
• →Local fresco guide

Bus or shared jeep from Mandawa to Bikaner (4-5 hrs; RSrtc bus ~£3-4). Drop bags and head to Junagarh Fort — the unassailable fort with its mirrored palaces and the surprising biplane in the courtyard (₹100-150 with audio guide, ~£1.50). Then Lalgarh Palace (₹50), a red sandstone pile built by a British architect for the maharaja. If you're keen, take a rickshaw to the Karni Mata rat temple at Deshnoke (30 km, ~£4-5 return by shared jeep) — go in the late afternoon for the feeding rituals. Try Bikaneri bhujia and kachori at a local sweet shop for dinner (~£3).

🚌Mandawa–Bikaner bus ~£3.50; local autos ~£2

🛏Budget guesthouse or hotel near Junagarh Fort — £12-16

• →Junagarh Fort
• →Lalgarh Palace
• →Optional Karni Mata rat temple at Deshnoke

Long travel day: the Bikaner–Jaisalmer bus takes 6-7 hrs (~£4-5), or take an overnight train if the schedule suits. Arrive in Jaisalmer and walk into the old town — the fort looms over everything. Check into a haveli guesthouse inside or just outside the fort walls (book ahead; rooms inside the fort are atmospheric but plumbing is basic). Evening rooftop dinner overlooking the fort's illuminated walls (~£5) and a wander through the bazaar lanes for mirror-work textiles and camel leather.

🚌Bikaner–Jaisalmer bus ~£4.50; local auto ~£1

🛏Haveli guesthouse in Jaisalmer old town — £10-16

• →Old town bazaar wander
• →Rooftop fort views

Enter Jaisalmer Fort on foot (free entry, though a ₹250 camera/guide combo ticket helps). The seven interconnected Jain temples inside the fort are the highlight (₹50, ~£0.50, no leather, no photos of deities). Walk the ramparts and descend to the Patwon Ki Haveli and Salim Singh Ki Haveli (₹100 each) — the carved sandstone balconies are the reason people come. Afternoon: a self-guided walk through the living fort's lanes, or hire a fort-born guide for ₹500 (~£5) to hear about the 2013 restoration and water crisis. Sunset from Gadisar Lake with the desert birds (~£1 rickshaw).

🚌Everything walkable; one rickshaw ~£1

🛏Same Jaisalmer haveli — £10-16

• →Jaisalmer Fort
• →Jain temples inside the fort
• →Patwon Ki Haveli
• →Salim Singh Ki Haveli
• →Gadisar Lake sunset

Take a local bus or shared jeep 50 km southwest to Khuri (~£2), the quieter dune field the tour uses. Book a camel safari directly with a Khuri camel-herder family — half-day plus dinner and a night in a desert camp runs ₹1,500-2,500 (~£15-25) per person including the Rajasthani folk dance and music show after dinner. Rides are typically 1.5-2 hrs through the dunes with chai at sunset. Sleeping under the stars on the dunes is possible for a small extra. Bring a head torch and warm layer for the night.

🚌Jaisalmer–Khuri bus/shared jeep ~£2 each way

🛏Desert camp (basic tent with bedding) in Khuri — included in safari price, or ~£12 standalone

• →Camel trek in the Khuri dunes
• →Sunset in the desert
• →Rajasthani folk dance and dinner at camp

Return to Jaisalmer and take the bus or train to Jodhpur (train ~5-6 hrs from Jaisalmer, sleeper ~£4; bus ~6 hrs ~£4). Check into a guesthouse in the blue-washed old town below the fort. Late afternoon visit Jaswant Thada, the marble cenotaphs (~£1), then climb to Mehrangarh Fort for the last light (₹200 with audio guide, ~£2). The fort's ramparts give the classic blue-city panorama. Skip the pricey Umaid Bhawan Palace museum (₹100) unless you have spare time — the exterior and vintage car collection are the draw. Dinner of mirchi vada and Jodhpuri lassi (~£4).

🚌Jaisalmer–Jodhpur train ~£4; autos ~£2

🛏Old-town guesthouse in Jodhpur — £10-15

• →Mehrangarh Fort
• →Jaswant Thada cenotaphs
• →Blue city old-town wander

Take the morning bus towards Udaipur but get off at Ranakpur (Jodhpur–Udaipur buses pass the turn-off; total ~£5). The Adinath Temple's 1,444 carved marble pillars are one of India's great sights (₹200 with audio guide, camera fee extra). Note: leather items, phones and cameras are restricted inside — leave them in the bus or at the gate. Continue by bus or shared jeep to Udaipur (~2 hrs, ~£2.50). Arrive by evening and walk to Gangaur Ghat; Bagore Ki Haveli's 7pm Dharohar folk dance show is ~£3 and worth the ticket. Dinner on a rooftop overlooking Lake Pichola (~£5).

🚌Jodhpur–Ranakpur–Udaipur bus ~£7.50 total

🛏Guesthouse in Udaipur's old town near Lal Ghat — £10-16

• →Ranakpur Jain temples
• →Gangaur Ghat
• →Bagore Ki Haveli folk dance show
• →Jagdish Temple

Start at the City Palace complex (₹300 with crystal gallery, ~£3) — allow 2-3 hrs for the Mewar paintings and mirror halls. Then Saheliyon Ki Bari gardens (~£1) and Monsoon Palace (Sajjangarh) for sunset views over the Aravallis — a shared auto up costs ~£3, or the local bus to the gate is ~£0.50. Take the public boat on Lake Pichola (₹500-700 for the 30-min ride, ~£5-7) or the cheaper ferry to Jag Mandir. Optional: the ropeway up to Karni Mata temple (~£2) for night-time city views.

🚌Autos and local bus ~£4 total

🛏Same Udaipur guesthouse — £10-16

• →City Palace complex
• →Saheliyon Ki Bari
• →Monsoon Palace sunset
• →Lake Pichola boat ride
• →Optional Karni Mata ropeway

Bus from Udaipur to Ajmer (5-6 hrs, ~£4), then a 20-min local bus or shared jeep to Pushkar (~£0.50). Pushkar is tiny, vegetarian and alcohol-free — check into a guesthouse near the lake. Visit the Brahma Temple (one of very few in the world) and wander the ghats. Do NOT accept a 'free' blessing or flower offering at the ghats — priests pressure tourists for large donations; agree a price upfront if you want the ritual. Attend the evening aarti at the main ghat (free). Dinner of malpua and dal baati (~£3).

🚌Udaipur–Ajmer bus ~£4, Ajmer–Pushkar jeep ~£0.50

🛏Pushkar guesthouse near the lake — £8-14

• →Brahma Temple
• →Pushkar Lake ghats and evening aarti
• →Bazaar wander

Morning climb to Savitri Mata Temple above Pushkar (ropeway ~£1.50 or 20-min walk) for views before the heat. Then bus to Jaipur (3 hrs, ~£2.50). Check into a hostel in the old city near Hawa Mahal. Late afternoon take a local bus or auto to Galta Ji (the Monkey Temple, ~15 km, ~£2 return) — expect the stepped kunds and many macaques; don't carry visible food. Evening in the old city for Jaipur's best street food: pyaaz kachori at Rawat, lassi at Lassiwala (~£3).

🚌Pushkar–Jaipur bus ~£2.50; autos ~£3

🛏Old-city hostel in Jaipur — £8-15

• →Savitri Mata Temple ropeway
• →Galta Ji Monkey Temple
• →Old-city street food

Be at Amber Fort by 8am (₹100 entry, ~£1; ₹200 for the combined ticket incl. Nahargarh and Jantar Mantar). Take the local bus #5 from Hawa Mahal (~£0.30) rather than a taxi. Skip elephant rides — welfare concerns — and walk up or take the jeep (₹200). Return to the city for the City Palace (₹200), Jantar Mantar (₹200) and Gaitor's marble royal tombs. Photo stop at Jal Mahal on the way back, and Hawa Mahal from the street-side café opposite (free view with a coffee). Shop Bapu Bazaar for block-print and mojari shoes; negotiate hard. Optional sunset at Nahargarh Fort (~£1 + auto ~£3).

🚌Local bus and autos ~£4

🛏Same Jaipur hostel — £8-15

• →Amber Fort
• →City Palace
• →Jantar Mantar
• →Gaitor royal tombs
• →Hawa Mahal
• →Bapu Bazaar shopping
• →Optional Nahargarh Fort sunset

Take the early Jaipur–Agra train or bus to Bharatpur/Fatehpur Sikri. The easiest budget option is the daily train to Fatehpur Sikri station (~2 hrs, ~£1.50), then a shared auto to the monument (~£0.50). Explore the royal palace complex and the Jama Masjid with Buland Darwaza (₹50 entry, ~£0.50). Then shared jeep or bus to Agra (~1.5 hrs, ~£1.50). Check into a guesthouse in Taj Ganj. Book your Taj Mahal ticket online in advance (₹1,100, ~£11 — the ASI website or GetYourGuide sunrise slot; closed Fridays). Visit Agra Fort late afternoon (₹50 with the Taj ticket online, ~£3 separately).

🚌Jaipur–Fatehpur Sikri train ~£1.50, shared auto/jeep ~£2, onward to Agra ~£1.50

🛏Guesthouse in Taj Ganj, Agra — £8-14

• →Fatehpur Sikri palace complex
• →Jama Masjid and Buland Darwaza
• →Agra Fort

Enter the Taj Mahal at sunrise (6am opening, ~£11 pre-booked online). Go early — by 9am the crowds and heat arrive. The east gate queue is usually shortest. Mausoleum interior is included; the ₹200 extra is only for the main dome platform. Return to the guesthouse for breakfast, then take the Gatimaan Express or a budget chair-car train back to Delhi (1h50, ~£10-12), or the bus (~4 hrs, ~£3). Tour ends in Delhi at your drop-off point of choice.

🚌Gatimaan Express Agra–Delhi ~£11, or bus ~£3

🛏Not included (onward travel)

• →Taj Mahal sunrise
• →Taj Ganj breakfast