Self-Launched Rajasthan Forts, Palaces & Ganges: 18 Days from Delhi

Land at Indira Gandhi International. Skip the tour-hotel transfer and take the Airport Express metro (Orange line) to New Delhi station (~£1.20) or a prepaid taxi (~£4–5). Check into a hostel or guesthouse in Paharganj or Karol Bagh. Get an Airtel/Jio tourist SIM at the airport, withdraw rupees, set up UPI if you can. Easy evening: wander Connaught Place, eat a cheap thali, and buy your first train ticket on IRCTC (book the Delhi–Varanasi leg tonight — it sells out).

🚌Airport Express metro ~£1.20, or prepaid taxi ~£4–5

🛏Hostel dorm or budget guesthouse, Paharganj (~£8–14)

• →Airport Express metro into the city
• →Tourist SIM card + cash withdrawal
• →IRCTC train booking session
• →Evening stroll around Connaught Place

Self-guide the same circuit the tour covers. Start early at Jama Masjid (free entry, ~£2 camera fee), then dive into Chandni Chowk on foot and take a cycle rickshaw through the spice market (~£2–3, agree the price first). Walk or metro to Raj Ghat, then take an auto to Humayun's Tomb (~£6 entry) and Qutub Minar (~£6). Finish with a drive-past of India Gate and Rashtrapati Bhavan at dusk (or an Ola/Uber loop for ~£4). Prefer a guide? A GetYourGuide Old Delhi food-and-walking tour runs ~£20–28 and covers much of this.

🚌Delhi Metro day pass ~£1.50 + autos ~£3–4

🛏Hostel dorm or budget guesthouse, Paharganj (~£8–14)

• →Jama Masjid
• →Chandni Chowk spice market cycle rickshaw
• →Raj Ghat
• →Humayun's Tomb
• →Qutub Minar
• →India Gate & Rashtrapati Bhavan drive-past

Take a morning train from New Delhi to Varanasi (Vande Bharat express ~8 hours, 3AC ~£18–25; sleeper class ~£6–9 — book well ahead). From Varanasi Junction, an auto to the ghats area costs ~£1.50. Drop bags at a guesthouse near Assi Ghat, then take a shared auto or auto-rickshaw to Sarnath (~£2.50 return) to see the Dhamek Stupa, Chaukhandi Stupa and the Archaeological Museum (closed Fridays). Evening: pick a rooftop and watch the river.

🚌Delhi–Varanasi train 3AC ~£18–25; autos ~£4

🛏Guesthouse near Assi Ghat (~£10–16)

• →Delhi–Varanasi train journey
• →Sarnath: Dhamek Stupa & Chaukhandi Stupa
• →Sarnath Archaeological Museum

Be at the river by 5:30am. Hire a rowboat directly from a boatman at Assi Ghat or Dashashwamedh (~£4–6 for 1.5 hours, split with others; a GetYourGuide sunrise boat tour is ~£12–18 if you prefer it arranged). Walk the ghats, then do a self-guided temple loop: Tulsi Manas, Durga (monkeys — leave valuables), Sankat Mochan and Vishwanath (security is tight; phones stay outside). Return in the evening for the Ganges aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat — free, arrive 45 minutes early for a step seat, or watch from a boat.

🚌Walking + autos ~£3

🛏Guesthouse near Assi Ghat (~£10–16)

• →Sunrise rowboat on the Ganges
• →Ghat walk
• →Tulsi Manas, Durga, Sankat Mochan & Vishwanath temples
• →Evening Ganges aarti ceremony

Slow morning on the ghats, then catch an afternoon/evening train to Agra (there are direct and via-Mughalsarai options; 3AC ~£10–15, sleeper ~£4–6) — or fly if you find a cheap IndiGo fare. Arrive late, take a prepaid auto to Taj Ganj, and sleep close to the monument so tomorrow's sunrise is painless.

🚌Varanasi–Agra train 3AC ~£10–15 + auto ~£1.50

🛏Budget guesthouse in Taj Ganj (~£9–15)

• →Final morning on the Varanasi ghats
• →Overnight-ish train to Agra
• →Settle into Taj Ganj

Buy your Taj Mahal ticket online the night before (~£12 foreigners, closed Fridays) and be at the East Gate before opening — the first hour is magic. Self-guided audio or a gate-hired guide (~£8–12, negotiable) gives you the story. Mid-morning: Mehtab Bagh across the river for the classic view (~£3). Afternoon: Agra Fort (~£7) covering Moti Masjid, Jahangir Palace, Diwan-i-Aam and Diwan-i-Khas, then Itmad-ud-Daulah's Tomb (~£4) and Jama Masjid. A GetYourGuide Taj + Fort skip-the-line combo with guide runs ~£25–35 if you'd rather not self-organise.

🚌Autos/tuk-tuks around town ~£4

🛏Budget guesthouse in Taj Ganj (~£9–15)

• →Sunrise at the Taj Mahal
• →Mehtab Bagh
• →Agra Fort
• →Itmad-ud-Daulah's Tomb (Baby Taj)
• →Jama Masjid Agra

Take a morning bus or shared taxi to Fatehpur Sikri (~1 hour, ~£1.50 by bus / ~£6 shared taxi). Explore the abandoned Mughal capital — Buland Darwaza, Panch Mahal, Diwan-e-Khas and the Tomb of Salim Chisti (~£6 entry). From the site, buses and shared taxis run to Jaipur (~4 hours, ~£3–5 bus) or hire a driver for the day for ~£30–40 split between travellers. Arrive Jaipur, check into a hostel in the old city, and eat at a rooftop near Hawa Mahal.

🚌Agra–Fatehpur Sikri bus ~£1.50; Fatehpur Sikri–Jaipur bus ~£3–5

🛏Hostel dorm or guesthouse, Jaipur old city (~£8–15)

• →Fatehpur Sikri: Buland Darwaza, Panch Mahal, Diwan-e-Khas
• →Tomb of Salim Chisti
• →Rooftop dinner by Hawa Mahal

Take a local bus or auto to Amber Fort early (~£4 entry + ~£1.50 auto) — walk up rather than taking the jeep for a quieter route, and skip the elephant rides. Optional add-ons: Nahargarh and Jaigarh forts if energy allows. Afternoon back in the Pink City: City Palace (~£9), Jantar Mantar (~£4), a drive-past of Jal Mahal and Hawa Mahal, and Birla Temple at sunset. A GetYourGuide Jaipur full-day guided tour with car runs ~£30–40; doing it yourself on autos and buses costs a fraction.

🚌Local bus + autos ~£5

🛏Hostel dorm or guesthouse, Jaipur old city (~£8–15)

• →Amber Fort
• →Optional Nahargarh / Jaigarh Fort
• →City Palace
• →Jantar Mantar
• →Hawa Mahal & Jal Mahal
• →Birla Temple at sunset

This is a big transit day. Take an early train or bus Jaipur–Chittorgarh (~5–6 hours, train ~£3–6), stash bags at the station, and use a shared auto to Chittorgarh Fort (~£3 return). Walk the fort circuit — Rana Kumbha's Palace, Kumbha Shyam Temple, Victory Tower, Meerabai Temple, Tower of Fame, Padmini Palace and the museum (fort entry ~£5). Catch an evening bus or train on to Udaipur (~2 hours, ~£2–3). If you'd rather not cram it, sleep in Chittorgarh and shift the schedule a day.

🚌Jaipur–Chittorgarh train/bus ~£3–6; Chittorgarh–Udaipur bus ~£2–3

🛏Hostel or guesthouse near Lake Pichola, Udaipur (~£9–16)

• →Chittorgarh Fort circuit
• →Rana Kumbha's Palace & Victory Tower
• →Padmini Palace & Chittorgarh Museum

Self-guided city day: City Palace complex (~£8), Jagdish Temple, Bagore Ki Haveli (evening dance show ~£2–3, book by 5pm), Saheliyon ki Bari and the Vintage & Classic Car Collection (~£3). Take the Udaipur ropeway up to Karni Mata for the view (~£2), then a boat ride on Lake Pichola at sunset (~£5–8 from Rameshwar Ghat). Wander Ambrai Ghat for dinner. A GetYourGuide Udaipur walking tour with guide is ~£15–20 if you want context.

🚌Walking + autos ~£4

🛏Hostel or guesthouse near Lake Pichola, Udaipur (~£9–16)

• →City Palace Udaipur
• →Jagdish Temple
• →Bagore Ki Haveli dance show
• →Ropeway to Karni Mata
• →Sunset boat on Lake Pichola
• →Saheliyon ki Bari & vintage car museum

Take a morning bus toward Ranakpur (buses run from Udaipur's bus stand; ~2 hours, ~£2) — or share a taxi for ~£25–30 split. The marble Jain temple complex with its 1,444 carved pillars is the highlight (~£2 entry, camera fee extra, strict dress code — cover shoulders and legs). Continue by bus or shared jeep to Jodhpur (~4 hours, ~£3–5). Check into a guesthouse in the blue city below Mehrangarh and eat at the Clock Tower market.

🚌Udaipur–Ranakpur bus ~£2; Ranakpur–Jodhpur bus ~£3–5

🛏Guesthouse in the old blue city, Jodhpur (~£9–16)

• →Ranakpur Jain Temple complex
• →Clock Tower market street food

Buy the Mehrangarh Fort ticket with audio guide (~£7–9) and give it 2–3 hours — it's the best-presented fort in Rajasthan. Walk down to Jaswant Thada (~£2) and Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park (~£2). Afternoon: Umaid Bhawan Palace museum (~£3), then Mandore Gardens and temple by shared auto (~£2). A GetYourGuide Mehrangarh + blue city walking tour is ~£15–20 if you want a local guide; otherwise the audio guide is excellent.

🚌Autos ~£4

🛏Guesthouse in the old blue city, Jodhpur (~£9–16)

• →Mehrangarh Fort with audio guide
• →Jaswant Thada
• →Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park
• →Umaid Bhawan Palace museum
• →Mandore Gardens & temple

Morning bus or train to Jaisalmer (~5–6 hours, bus ~£4–6, train ~£2–4). Book a desert safari directly with a Jaisalmer operator (Klook and GetYourGuide both list ~£25–40 per person overnight camps, or arrange at a Gandhi Chowk agency for ~£20–30) — this covers the jeep out, a camel ride into the dunes, dinner, Rajasthani folk dance and a tent or hut for the night. Watch the sunset from the sand, then sleep under the stars.

🚌Jodhpur–Jaisalmer bus ~£4–6; jeep into dunes included in safari

🛏Standard desert camp with tent/hut, Thar dunes (~included in safari package, ~£20–30 value)

• →Jodhpur–Jaisalmer journey
• →Camel ride in the Thar dunes
• →Sunset in the desert
• →Rajasthani folk dance & music performance
• →Overnight desert camp

Return to town and check into a guesthouse inside or just below the fort (many are family-run havelis, ~£10–18). Self-guided walk: Jaisalmer Fort's living lanes and Jain temples (~£5 fort complex ticket), Patwon-ki-Haveli (~£2), Salim Singh-ki-Haveli and the Thar Heritage Museum. Sunset at Gadisar Lake is free. Browse the Silk Route Art Gallery if it's open. A local guide at the fort gate costs ~£8–12 for two hours and is well worth it.

🚌Auto back from camp ~£4; walking in town

🛏Haveli guesthouse near Jaisalmer Fort (~£10–18)

• →Jaisalmer Fort & Jain temples
• →Patwon-ki-Haveli
• →Salim Singh-ki-Haveli
• →Thar Heritage Museum
• →Gadisar Lake sunset

Bus or train to Bikaner (~4–5 hours, ~£3–5). Afternoon half-day self-guided: Junagarh Fort (~£5, excellent audio guide), Lalgarh Palace and Bhandasar Jain Temple (~£1). If you have time and a shared jeep (~£10 split), the Karni Mata rat temple at Deshnoke is 30km out — allow 2.5 hours round trip. Dinner at a local sweet shop on Station Road.

🚌Jaisalmer–Bikaner bus/train ~£3–5; local autos ~£3

🛏Guesthouse in Bikaner (~£8–14)

• →Junagarh Fort with audio guide
• →Lalgarh Palace
• →Bhandasar Jain Temple
• →Optional Karni Mata Temple, Deshnoke

Bus to Mandawa via Fatehpur/Nawalgarh (~4–5 hours, ~£3–4; some travellers break the trip at Nawalgarh for its fresco havelis). Check into a heritage haveli guesthouse — Mandawa has several restored family homes at hostel-adjacent prices (~£12–20). Spend the late afternoon on a self-guided walk of the frescoed havelis and the fort palace (many are free to view; small tips to caretakers are standard). Sunset from the castle rooftop.

🚌Bus ~£3–4; walking in Mandawa

🛏Heritage haveli guesthouse, Mandawa (~£12–20)

• →Bus through Shekhawati
• →Mandawa haveli fresco walk
• →Mandawa fort palace
• →Rooftop sunset

Morning bus to Jhunjhunu or Nawalgarh, then a train toward Delhi (~5–6 hours total, ~£4–7). If you're routing through Rewari, hop off for the Rewari Rail Museum (~£1) and its steam locomotives before finishing into Delhi. Back in the capital, check into a Paharganj hostel and have a last proper meal — butter chicken or a chaat crawl in Connaught Place.

🚌Mandawa–Delhi bus + train ~£4–7; metro ~£1

🛏Hostel dorm or budget guesthouse, Paharganj (~£8–14)

• →Shekhawati–Delhi overland journey
• →Optional Rewari Rail Museum
• →Final Delhi dinner

Last breakfast, a bit of souvenir shopping in Janpath or Dilli Haat if your flight is late, then Airport Express metro (~£1.20) or prepaid taxi (~£4–5) to IGI. Allow 3 hours before an international departure for immigration and security.

🚌Airport Express metro ~£1.20 or prepaid taxi ~£4–5

🛏—

• →Janpath / Dilli Haat souvenir shopping
• →Transfer to Indira Gandhi International Airport