Self-Launched Grand Traverse of Réunion Island

Fly into Roland Garros Airport (RUN). From the airport, take the Kar'Ouest or Car Jaune public bus network into central Saint-Denis (approx. £2–3). Check into your guesthouse or budget hotel in the city centre. Spend the afternoon exploring the seafront promenade and the colourful Creole architecture of the historic centre. Stock up on any last-minute trekking supplies at a local supermarket — Carrefour and Leclerc are well-stocked. Get an early night ahead of the trek starting tomorrow.

🚌Car Jaune public bus from airport to city centre (~£2–3)

🛏Budget hotel or guesthouse in Saint-Denis centre — options include Hôtel Le Juliette Dodu or similar (~£40–55/night)

• →Take the public Car Jaune bus from Roland Garros Airport into central Saint-Denis (~£2–3)
• →Explore the seafront and historic Creole architecture of Saint-Denis on foot
• →Stock up on trekking snacks and supplies at a local Carrefour or Leclerc supermarket

Take the Car Jaune bus or a shared taxi (taxi collectif) from Saint-Denis towards La Possession and onward to Dos d'Âne (allow 1–1.5hrs, ~£5–8). This is the start of the GRR2 trail and your grand traverse of the island. Descend the spectacular technical but well-secured trail into the Cirque de Mafate — one of the most dramatic landscapes in the Indian Ocean, accessible only on foot. Follow the GRR2 through the ilet of Deux-Bras, crossing the Rivière des Galets several times before arriving at the isolated plateau of Aurère. Book your night at Piton Cabris Gîte or a nearby gîte in Aurère directly — most gîtes in Mafate offer half-board (dinner and breakfast included). Trek: ~7 miles, ~2,700ft up, ~2,850ft down, approx. 5.5–6.5hrs.

🚌Car Jaune bus or taxi collectif from Saint-Denis to Dos d'Âne (~£5–8)

🛏Gîte/mountain refuge in Aurère (e.g. Piton Cabris Gîte), half-board ~£30–40pp

• →Ride the Car Jaune bus or taxi collectif from Saint-Denis to Dos d'Âne (~£5–8)
• →Begin the GRR2 trail and descend into the Cirque de Mafate
• →Cross the Rivière des Galets and follow the valley to Aurère
• →Check in to your pre-booked gîte at Aurère — half-board recommended (~£30–40pp)

Fuel up on the gîte breakfast and set off along the GRR2 through the heart of Mafate. Pass through the hamlets of Îlet à Malheur, Îlet à Bourse and Grand-Place-les-Hauts — the Le Pavillon Lodge grocery store at Grand-Place is a good place to grab snacks. Descend to the bridge over the Rivière des Galets before a steep, stepped ascent to Îlet des Orangers. Pre-book your gîte at Îlet des Orangers ahead of time — the handful of gîtes here are small and fill up fast. Trek: ~8 miles, ~3,280ft up, ~2,950ft down, approx. 6hrs.

🚌On foot — no road transport in Cirque de Mafate

🛏Gîte in Îlet des Orangers, half-board ~£30–40pp

• →Follow GRR2 through the remote hamlets of Mafate: Îlet à Malheur, Îlet à Bourse, Grand-Place-les-Hauts
• →Restock on snacks at Le Pavillon Lodge grocery store
• →Cross the Rivière des Galets bridge and climb the steep staircase to Îlet des Orangers
• →Overnight at a pre-booked gîte in Îlet des Orangers, half-board

Wake up to sunrise lighting up the valley — one of the great sights of the traverse. Set off along the GRR2 from Îlet des Orangers with a scenic ascent through a rocky ravine to Roche-Plate. Here you take an alternative route to Marla via the geological site of Trois-Roches and its impressive waterfall — an ideal spot for a picnic lunch. Arrive at the gîte in Marla, nestled at the foot of the Col du Taïbit ridgeline that separates Mafate from Cilaos. Pre-book the gîte in Marla directly. Trek: ~8 miles, ~3,760ft up, ~1,680ft down, approx. 6hrs.

🚌On foot — no road access in Cirque de Mafate

🛏Gîte in Marla, half-board ~£30–40pp

• →Ascend the rocky ravine from Îlet des Orangers to Roche-Plate along GRR2
• →Divert via Trois-Roches geological site and its striking waterfall for a picnic lunch
• →Arrive and overnight in Marla gîte at the foot of Col du Taïbit — half-board

Today's highlight is the Col du Taïbit, a mythical mountain pass at 6,831ft that separates the cirques of Mafate and Cilaos — famously part of the 'Diagonale des Fous' ultra trail race. Climb steadily to the ridgeline, pausing to look back across Mafate one last time, then descend the long, beautiful route into Cilaos — passing rivers, waterfalls and canyons. Cilaos is the largest town inside any of Réunion's cirques, with restaurants, a spa, supermarkets and a welcome sense of civilisation. Pre-book 2 nights in a local gîte or chambre d'hôtes in or near town. Trek: ~7 miles, ~2,570ft up, ~3,940ft down, approx. 6–6.5hrs.

🚌On foot from Marla to Cilaos via Col du Taïbit

🛏Chambre d'hôtes or gîte in Cilaos (e.g. Gîte Le Vieux Cep or similar), ~£35–50/night B&B

• →Summit the Col du Taïbit pass (6,831ft) on the GRR2 trail
• →Descend into the Cirque de Cilaos past rivers, waterfalls and canyons
• →Arrive in Cilaos town — explore, resupply and enjoy a restaurant meal
• →Overnight: 2 nights in a chambre d'hôtes or gîte in Cilaos

A flexible day in Cilaos — choose your own adventure. Option 1: rest at your accommodation, visit the thermal spa (Établissement Thermal de Cilaos, ~£15–25 for a session), or wander the town. Option 2: tackle the Sentier de la Chapelle day hike independently — a well-marked trail exploring the cirque and a remarkable stone cathedral, ~4–5hrs. Option 3: book a canyoneering experience locally — several Cilaos-based operators offer half-day guided canyoning for approximately £50–80pp (e.g. Canyon Réunion or Azur Canyon — book directly or via their websites). This is the best canyoneering spot on the island.

🚌On foot or local transport within Cilaos

🛏Chambre d'hôtes or gîte in Cilaos (second night)

• →Optional: hike the Sentier de la Chapelle trail independently (~4–5hrs, free)
• →Optional: book a half-day canyoneering session with a local operator in Cilaos (~£50–80pp)
• →Optional: relax at the Établissement Thermal de Cilaos spa (~£15–25)
• →Explore Cilaos town, visit the local wine cooperative and restock supplies for the next section

Leave Cilaos and begin the lung-busting climb to the Caverne Dufour mountain refuge, perched just below the summit of Piton des Neiges (10,069ft) — the highest point in the Indian Ocean. The refuge is operated by the ONF (Office National des Forêts) and must be pre-booked online well in advance at reunion.fr or directly via the refuge — half-board is typically included (~£35–45pp). The terrain becomes increasingly dramatic and lunar-like as you gain altitude. Set your alarm for 3:30–4:00 AM for tomorrow's summit attempt. Trek: ~5 miles, ~4,460ft up, ~285ft down, approx. 4–5hrs.

🚌On foot from Cilaos

🛏Caverne Dufour ONF Refuge, half-board ~£35–45pp (book in advance at reunion.fr)

• →Follow GRR2 from Cilaos on the long, steep ascent to Caverne Dufour refuge
• →Check into the ONF Caverne Dufour refuge — pre-book online well in advance (~£35–45pp half-board)
• →Optional: head up to Piton des Neiges for sunset if energy and conditions allow
• →Set alarm for 3:30–4:00 AM for the sunrise summit attempt

Rise at around 3:30–4:00 AM, strap on your headlamp and warm layers, and climb the final ~1,970ft to the summit of Piton des Neiges in time for an unforgettable Indian Ocean sunrise. The return to the refuge takes around 3hrs total. After breakfast, descend the GRR1 trail toward the Bélouve forest on the edge of the Cirque de Salazie — a long, muddy, cliff-edge path with sweeping views of Réunion's third cirque. By mid-afternoon, arrive at the Auberge de Bélouve, a remote lodge accessible only on foot. Pre-book directly with the lodge. Trek: ~9 miles total (including summit), ~1,890ft up, ~5,100ft down, approx. 8hrs.

🚌On foot from Caverne Dufour to Bélouve via GRR1

🛏Auberge de Bélouve, half-board ~£30–40pp (book directly with the lodge)

• →Pre-dawn summit of Piton des Neiges (10,069ft) for sunrise — headlamp and warm layers essential
• →Descend the GRR1 trail through the Cirque de Salazie to Bélouve
• →Check into Auberge de Bélouve — pre-book directly with the lodge (~£30–40pp half-board)

After breakfast, hike into the heart of the Bélouve forest reserve — a primeval landscape of towering tree ferns and ancient woodland. Follow the trail to the dramatic viewpoint above the Trou de Fer gorge, where waterfalls plunge over 1,000ft into a hidden abyss. Return to the lodge for a packed lunch before arranging your afternoon transfer. The most affordable option is to take the Car Jaune bus network via Salazie and Saint-André down to the coast, then a second bus inland via Saint-Benoît toward the Plaine des Cafres — alternatively, pre-arrange a shared taxi transfer to Bois Ozoux or the Pas de Bellecombe area (~£20–35pp if arranged locally or split between a small group). Follow the GRR2 uphill from Bois Ozoux across the Plaine des Sables to the Pas de Bellecombe volcano refuge. Trek: ~10 miles, ~1,250ft up, ~1,350ft down (Bélouve section) + transfer.

🚌Car Jaune bus or shared taxi from Bélouve/Salazie area to Plaine des Cafres/Fournaise (~£20–35pp)

🛏ONF refuge at Pas de Bellecombe (Piton de la Fournaise area), half-board ~£30–40pp

• →Morning hike through Bélouve forest to the Trou de Fer gorge viewpoint (waterfalls plunging 1,000ft+)
• →Return to lodge for packed lunch
• →Afternoon transfer via Car Jaune bus or pre-arranged shared taxi toward Plaine des Cafres (~£20–35pp)
• →Trek the GRR2 across the lunar Plaine des Sables to Pas de Bellecombe volcano refuge
• →Overnight at the ONF refuge at Pas de Bellecombe — pre-book in advance (~£30–40pp half-board)

A shorter, easier sunrise hike this morning: it's just 20 minutes down from the refuge to the rim of Piton de la Fournaise (~2,631m), one of the world's most active volcanoes. Watch the first light play across the ochre and vivid red craters before heading back for breakfast. Then set off on the final section of your traverse — passing Formica Léo crater and onward to the main Dolomieu crater rim. This marks the official end of your grand traverse of Réunion: approximately 75 miles and nearly 30,000ft of ascent completed. To get to the west coast, catch a local taxi or pre-arrange a transfer to Bourg-Murat (~£15–25pp), then take the Car Jaune bus down the west coast to L'Hermitage-les-Bains (~£5). Check into a budget hotel or guesthouse near the lagoon and toast your achievement with a sundowner. Trek: ~8 miles, ~1,670ft up, ~1,670ft down, approx. 6hrs.

🚌Local taxi to Bourg-Murat + Car Jaune bus to L'Hermitage-les-Bains (~£20–30pp)

🛏Guesthouse or budget hotel at L'Hermitage-les-Bains (e.g. Le Récif or similar), ~£45–60/night

• →Pre-dawn hike to the rim of Piton de la Fournaise for sunrise over the active volcano
• →Final GRR2 trekking section past Formica Léo and Dolomieu crater — the official end of the Grand Traverse
• →Local taxi to Bourg-Murat then Car Jaune bus to L'Hermitage-les-Bains (~£20–30pp total)
• →Check in to beachside guesthouse or budget hotel at L'Hermitage-les-Bains
• →Celebrate at a seafront bar or restaurant with Indian Ocean views

You've earned a full rest day. L'Hermitage-les-Bains sits on Réunion's most beautiful stretch of lagoon beach — perfect for swimming and snorkelling in the protected, shark-netted waters. Grab a mask and fins from a local hire shop (~£5–8). For those wanting more action, whale- and dolphin-watching boat trips are available July–October (~£35–55pp, bookable locally or via GetYourGuide). Introductory scuba dives are available with several dive schools nearby for qualified divers. A scenic helicopter flight over the island's interior — the landscape you just trekked through — is a stunning splurge (~£80–150 for a 30–45min flight; book with Heli Réunion or Corail Hélicoptères directly). Otherwise, simply eat, swim, and sleep.

🚌On foot along the beach strip; local bus for any wider exploring (~£1–2)

🛏Guesthouse or budget hotel at L'Hermitage-les-Bains (second night)

• →Snorkelling in the protected lagoon at L'Hermitage-les-Bains (hire mask and fins ~£5–8)
• →Optional: whale- and dolphin-watching boat trip (July–Oct, ~£35–55pp — book locally or via GetYourGuide)
• →Optional: introductory or fun scuba dive with a local dive school (~£50–70pp)
• →Optional: scenic helicopter flight over Réunion's volcanic interior (~£80–150 — book via Heli Réunion or Corail Hélicoptères)
• →Relax on the beach, eat well, and recover!

Time to head home. Take the Car Jaune bus or a taxi from L'Hermitage-les-Bains northward along the coast to Saint-Denis and Roland Garros Airport (~£5–15 by bus, ~£25–35 by taxi). Check in plenty early for your onward flight. If you have time before departure, the seafront area near the airport or Saint-Denis city centre is worth a final wander. Au revoir, Réunion.

🚌Car Jaune bus or taxi from L'Hermitage-les-Bains to Roland Garros Airport (~£5–35)

• →Take the Car Jaune bus or taxi north from L'Hermitage-les-Bains to Roland Garros Airport (~£5–35 depending on mode)
• →Final stroll around Saint-Denis if time allows before departure