Self-Launched Grand Traverse of Réunion Island

Fly into Roland Garros Airport (RUN) — direct flights from Paris (Air Austral, Air France), Johannesburg, Bangkok and Mauritius. From the airport, take the Carsud bus Line E or a taxi (~€20) into the centre of Saint-Denis, roughly 10km away. Check into a budget hotel or guesthouse in the city centre. Spend the afternoon exploring the Creole architecture of the historic centre and the seafront Barachois promenade. Saint-Denis has good supermarkets — stock up on trail snacks, energy gels and blister plasters now. Get a good night's sleep before the traverse begins.

🚌Carsud bus Line E from airport to Saint-Denis (~€3) or taxi (~€20)

🛏Hotel Le Juliette Dodu or similar budget hotel/guesthouse in Saint-Denis city centre (~£50-60/night)

• →Arrive at Roland Garros Airport (RUN) and take Carsud bus Line E or taxi into Saint-Denis (~€20 by taxi)
• →Explore the Barachois seafront promenade and colonial Creole architecture
• →Stock up on trail snacks and supplies at a local supermarket
• →Check the Météo-France Réunion forecast and confirm gîte bookings for the coming days

Take the Carsud bus or arrange a taxi (the cheapest option with a group) from Saint-Denis to the village of Dos d'Âne, the official start of the GRR2 traverse (~1 hour, ~€30-40 by shared taxi). From Dos d'Âne, the trail descends dramatically into the Cirque de Mafate — a world accessible only on foot. The trail is well-marked and follows the GRR2 waypoints (orange and white blazes). After crossing the Rivière des Galets several times, you'll arrive at the îlet d'Aurère and your first gîte. Book Piton Cabris Inn or La Case Marron in Aurère well in advance — these fill up fast, especially on weekends. Gîtes in Mafate provide dinner and breakfast as part of the demi-pension package; always confirm this when booking. Distance: ~12km, 828m up, 867m down, ~5.5-6.5hrs.

🚌Shared taxi/minivan from Saint-Denis to Dos d'Âne trailhead (~€30-40 split between travellers)

🛏Piton Cabris Inn or La Case Marron, îlet d'Aurère — demi-pension gîte (~£35-45pp including dinner and breakfast)

• →Take shared taxi from Saint-Denis to Dos d'Âne trailhead (~€30-40 shared)
• →Begin GRR2 trail descent into the Cirque de Mafate
• →Cross the Rivière des Galets and trek to îlet d'Aurère
• →Check in at Piton Cabris Inn or similar gîte in Aurère (demi-pension)

One of the most rewarding days of the traverse. From Aurère, continue along the GRR2 through the remote hamlets of îlet à Malheur, îlet à Bourse and Grand-Place-les-Hauts. The tiny shop at Le Pavillon Lodge in Grand-Place is a lifeline for snacks and cold drinks — don't miss it. After crossing the bridge over the Rivière des Galets, a steep and relentless ascent with hundreds of steps brings you up to îlet des Orangers. The gîte here has a jaw-dropping setting in a remote hanging valley. Book Gîte des Orangers or similar directly. Distance: ~13km, 1000m up, 900m down, ~6hrs.

🚌On foot (GRR2 trail)

🛏Gîte des Orangers or similar, îlet des Orangers — demi-pension (~£35-45pp)

• →Trek GRR2 through hamlets of îlet à Malheur and Grand-Place-les-Hauts
• →Stock up on snacks at Le Pavillon Lodge shop
• →Cross the Rivière des Galets bridge and climb the famous 'staircase' ascent to îlet des Orangers
• →Enjoy sunset views from one of Mafate's most spectacular gîte locations

Wake to sunrise flooding the valley before breakfast at the gîte. Today's stage heads from îlet des Orangers along the GRR2 via a scenic rocky ravine ascent to Roche-Plate. Here the route deviates onto an alternative trail via the geological site of Trois-Roches — a gorgeous waterfall and picnic spot. Check trail conditions before departing as some sections near vertiginous passages may be rerouted seasonally; the gîte owners will advise. Finish at Marla, a small hamlet at the foot of the Col du Taïbit with its own gîte accommodation. Book ahead directly — options include Chez Alice or Gîte de Marla. Distance: ~12.5km, 1147m up, 513m down, ~6hrs.

🚌On foot (GRR2 trail)

🛏Chez Alice or Gîte de Marla — demi-pension (~£35-45pp)

• →Trek GRR2 from îlet des Orangers via rocky ravine ascent to Roche-Plate
• →Visit the Trois-Roches waterfall geological site for a picnic lunch
• →Arrive at Marla hamlet and check into gîte at the foot of the Col du Taïbit
• →Prepare gear and pack for tomorrow's col crossing

The iconic col crossing of the Grand Traverse. From Marla, ascend the GRR2 to the Col du Taïbit at 2,081m — a dramatic ridgeline immortalised by the Grand Raid ultra-marathon 'Diagonal of Fools'. The views across both cirques are extraordinary on a clear day. From the col, descend into the Cirque de Cilaos, a long winding route past rivers, waterfalls and canyons into the town of Cilaos. Cilaos is a proper mountain town with restaurants, a thermal spa and shops — a welcome return to civilisation after four days in Mafate. Book a budget hotel or guesthouse (Hôtel du Cirque, Chez Noël or similar). Treat yourself to a local Cilaos lentil dish and a glass of Cilaos wine — the only wine produced at altitude on a French island. Distance: ~11.7km, 784m up, 1200m down, ~6-6.5hrs.

🚌On foot (GRR2 trail)

🛏Hôtel du Cirque, Chez Noël or budget guesthouse in Cilaos (~£40-55/night)

• →Summit the Col du Taïbit (2,081m) on the GRR2 with panoramic views over both cirques
• →Descend into the Cirque de Cilaos passing rivers and waterfalls
• →Check into a hotel or guesthouse in Cilaos town
• →Explore Cilaos town, visit the thermal spa, and try local Cilaos wine and lentil specialities

A flexible day to recharge before the demanding second half of the traverse. Three options: (1) Full rest — soak in the thermal baths at the Cilaos spa, stroll the town and prepare your kit. (2) Hike — tackle the self-guided 'Sentier de la Chapelle' (7km, ~4.5hrs, 513m up/down), a beautiful trail into the cirque that passes a natural stone cathedral canyon — the trail is well-marked and no guide is needed. (3) Canyoning — Cilaos is a world-class canyoning destination. Book independently through local operators such as Vertical Réunion or Run Évasion (approx. £60-90pp), who offer half-day and full-day guided canyoning experiences with all equipment provided. Book at least a day in advance.

🚌On foot locally

🛏Hôtel du Cirque, Chez Noël or budget guesthouse in Cilaos (~£40-55/night)

• →Optional: Self-guided hike on Sentier de la Chapelle trail (7km, 4.5hrs, well-marked)
• →Optional: Book a half-day canyoning experience with Vertical Réunion or Run Évasion (~£60-90pp)
• →Optional: Rest day — thermal baths at Cilaos spa (~€10-15), town exploration and kit preparation
• →Stock up on snacks and supplies for the next 4 days of trekking

The toughest climb of the traverse — almost entirely uphill. From Cilaos, the GRR2 ascends relentlessly through changing vegetation zones towards the Caverne Dufour mountain refuge, perched below the summit of Piton des Neiges at 2,479m. This is managed by the Parc National de la Réunion and must be booked in advance online at reunion.parcsnationaux.fr. The refuge sleeps trekkers in dorm-style bunk rooms and provides meals — confirm demi-pension when booking. Cost is approximately €25-35pp per night. Above the treeline, the landscape turns lunar and otherworldly. If energy and weather allow, hike up to watch sunset from near the summit before an early night — alarms set for ~03:30. Distance: ~7.5km, 1361m up, 87m down, ~4-5hrs.

🚌On foot (GRR2 trail)

🛏Caverne Dufour Refuge (Parc National de la Réunion) — demi-pension dorm (~£25-35pp)

• →Depart Cilaos and climb the GRR2 trail through forest and alpine zones
• →Check in at Caverne Dufour refuge (pre-booked via reunion.parcsnationaux.fr, ~€25-35pp demi-pension)
• →Optional: hike towards the Piton des Neiges summit area for sunset
• →Set alarms for ~03:30 for summit attempt at dawn

The biggest day of the traverse. Rise at ~03:30, layer up with warm clothes and headtorches, and begin the 600m summit push to Piton des Neiges (3,069m) — the highest point in the Indian Ocean. The well-marked trail from the refuge takes around 1.5 hours. Watch the sunrise from the summit — on a clear day you can see the curvature of the Indian Ocean horizon. Descend back to the refuge for breakfast, then continue along the GRR1 trail northwest through the Cirque de Salazie toward Bélouve. The descent weaves along cliff edges above the third and most lush cirque, with waterfalls and thick forest. Reach the Gîte de Bélouve by mid-afternoon — book directly, it's managed privately. A long but unforgettable day. Distance: ~15km total (including summit), ~575m up, 1555m down, ~8hrs.

🚌On foot (GRR1 trail)

🛏Gîte de Bélouve — demi-pension (~£35-45pp)

• →Pre-dawn summit attempt of Piton des Neiges (3,069m) — highest point of the Indian Ocean — with headtorch (~03:30 start)
• →Watch sunrise from the summit with 360° views across Réunion
• →Descend to refuge for breakfast, then continue on GRR1 trail toward Bélouve
• →Arrive at Gîte de Bélouve, pre-booked directly with the gîte

After breakfast, explore the ancient Bélouve forest reserve on a self-guided morning walk — towering tree ferns give the forest a Jurassic feel. The highlight is the viewpoint above the Trou de Fer gorge, where multiple waterfalls plunge 300m+ into the depths of a sheer canyon — one of Réunion's most spectacular sights. Return to the gîte for a picnic lunch. Now comes the island's greatest contrast: arrange a shared taxi or public bus (Car Jaune Route 18/19 to Plaine des Cafres, then onward) to transfer across the island to the Piton de la Fournaise massif. Taxis jaunes (yellow shared taxis) are the standard local option — ask the gîte to help arrange this. Pass through the rolling Plaine des Cafres and stop at Pas de Bellecombe viewpoints. Overnight at the Gîte du Volcan (Gîte de Bellecombe) — book directly or via the Parc National. Distance on foot: ~15.5km, 380m up, 410m down, ~6hrs (plus transfer).

🚌On foot in the morning; shared taxi jaune / Car Jaune bus across island (~€30-50 shared)

🛏Gîte du Volcan (Gîte de Bellecombe) at Pas de Bellecombe — demi-pension (~£35-50pp)

• →Self-guided morning walk through Bélouve ancient fern forest
• →Trek to the Trou de Fer gorge viewpoint — waterfalls plunging 300m+ into the canyon
• →Return to gîte for picnic lunch, then arrange shared taxi transfer to Piton de la Fournaise region (via Car Jaune or taxi jaune, ~€30-50 shared)
• →Check in at Gîte du Volcan / Gîte de Bellecombe at Pas de Bellecombe (pre-book directly)

A final pre-dawn start (~05:30) for the short hike down to the Piton de la Fournaise caldera rim to catch sunrise over one of the world's most active volcanoes. The 20-minute descent to the Pas de Bellecombe observation point rewards you with extraordinary light and colour. After breakfast at the gîte, begin the final stage of the Grand Traverse: hike down into the volcanic Enclos Fouqué, passing the ochre and red formations of the Formica Léo crater, and trek to the rim of the enormous Dolomieu crater — the main crater of the volcano. The GRR2 trail is well-marked throughout. At the end of the trekking day, a pre-arranged taxi or Car Jaune bus will transfer you ~2 hours west to L'Hermitage-les-Bains on the beautiful lagoon coast. Book a guesthouse or budget hotel near the beach. Celebrate your completion of 120km and 9,000m of ascent. Distance: ~12.5km, 510m up, 510m down, ~6hrs.

🚌On foot for trek; pre-arranged taxi or Car Jaune bus to west coast (~€40-60 shared)

🛏Budget hotel or guesthouse near L'Hermitage-les-Bains lagoon beach (~£50-70/night)

• →Pre-dawn hike to Pas de Bellecombe rim for sunrise over Piton de la Fournaise volcano (~05:30)
• →Final GRR2 trekking stage through Enclos Fouqué, past Formica Léo crater and Dolomieu crater rim
• →Pre-arranged taxi or Car Jaune bus transfer from Fournaise to L'Hermitage-les-Bains west coast (~€40-60 shared)
• →Check into beach guesthouse or budget hotel and celebrate completing the Grand Traverse

A well-deserved beach day. L'Hermitage-les-Bains is one of Réunion's finest stretches of lagoon beach, protected by a coral reef and ideal for swimming and snorkelling. Rent a snorkel set from a local beach shack (~€10) and explore the reef. From July to October, book a whale- and dolphin-watching boat trip independently through operators such as Globice or Cétacés Réunion (~€50-70pp). Scuba diving trips can be booked through local dive centres on the beach for certified divers (~€50-80 for a guided dive). For a truly unforgettable perspective on the island you've just crossed on foot, book a scenic helicopter flight over the volcanoes and cirques through Corail Hélicoptères or Papangue Hélicoptères (~€120-200 for a 20-30 minute flight). Or simply lie on the beach.

🚌On foot / local taxi or bicycle hire

🛏Budget hotel or guesthouse near L'Hermitage-les-Bains lagoon beach (~£50-70/night)

• →Swim and snorkel in the L'Hermitage lagoon (snorkel hire ~€10)
• →Optional: Book a whale and dolphin watching boat trip via Globice or Cétacés Réunion (~€50-70pp, best July–October)
• →Optional: Book a scenic helicopter flight over the cirques and volcanoes with Corail Hélicoptères (~€120-200pp for 20-30 mins)
• →Optional: Guided scuba dive over Réunion's coral reef with a local dive centre (~€50-80pp)

Take the Car Jaune bus or book a taxi (~€60-80) from L'Hermitage-les-Bains back to Roland Garros Airport in Saint-Denis (~1.5 hours). Allow plenty of time as the island's coastal road can get busy. Depart Réunion on your onward flight. Direct services to Paris, Johannesburg and beyond.

🚌Car Jaune bus or taxi from west coast to Roland Garros Airport (~€60-80 by taxi)

🛏N/A (departure day)

• →Check out of accommodation and transfer to Roland Garros Airport (RUN)
• →Take Car Jaune bus or taxi from L'Hermitage-les-Bains to Saint-Denis (~€60-80 by taxi, ~€3 by bus with a change)
• →Depart on onward flight