Serbia, Bosnia & Montenegro Self-Launched Balkan Road Trip (23 Days, Belgrade to Podgorica)

Fly into Nikola Tesla Airport and take bus 72 or the A1 shuttle (~£1.50–£3) into the centre, or a fixed-price taxi (~£15). Check into a hostel or budget hotel in Stari Grad or Dorćol. Spend the afternoon walking Kalemegdan Park and Belgrade Fortress, watching the Sava meet the Danube, then wander Skadarlija's cobbled bohemian street for a cheap grilled-meat dinner (ćevapi ~£5).

🚌Airport bus 72/A1 to city centre ~£2

🛏Hostel in Stari Grad or Dorćol (~£15–22 dorm/private budget room)

• →Belgrade Fortress & Kalemegdan Park (free)
• →Skadarlija quarter evening stroll
• →Knez Mihailova pedestrian street

Full day in the capital. Start at the Nikola Tesla Museum (guided tour every hour, ~£6), then the National Museum of Serbia (~£3.50). Ride trolleybus or walk up to the vast Saint Sava Church and its crypt, and finish with sunset views from the Belgrade Waterfront or Zemun's riverside. Grab a bargain lunch at a local pekara (bakery) or a 'kuvana jela' canteen (~£4).

🚌Public transport day ticket ~£2

🛏Hostel in Stari Grad (~£15–22)

• →Nikola Tesla Museum
• →National Museum of Serbia
• →Saint Sava Church
• →Zemun riverside walk

Take a morning bus from Belgrade's BAS station to Smederevo (~1 hr, ~£3) and explore the huge medieval Smederevo Fortress on the Danube. Continue by local bus to Viminacium Roman archaeological park (~£2) for the reconstructed Roman sites and mammoth park, then bus onward to Požarevac (~30 min, ~£2) where you overnight. Buses are frequent and cheap; check Polazak.rs for times.

🚌Intercity buses Belgrade→Smederevo→Viminacium→Požarevac ~£7 total

🛏Guesthouse or small hotel in Požarevac (~£18–25)

• →Smederevo Fortress
• →Viminacium Archaeological Park

The Danube gorge sights are hard on public transport, so the smart independent move is to hire a local taxi for the day (~£45–55 shared between two, or ask your guesthouse to arrange a driver). Hit Ram Fortress on the riverbank, the dramatically restored Golubac Fortress at the Iron Gates entrance (entry ~£5), and Tumane Monastery. A short boat trip into the Iron Gates gorge can be added (~£8).

🚌Hired local taxi/driver for the day ~£25–30 pp shared

🛏Guesthouse in Požarevac (~£18–25)

• →Ram Fortress
• →Golubac Fortress
• →Tumane Monastery
• →Optional Iron Gates boat trip

Take a bus toward Despotovac (~£3) and use a local taxi to loop Manasija Monastery, Resavska Cave (~£3 entry) and Ravanica Monastery — a half-day loop for around £25–30 shared. Then bus onward to Niš (~2.5 hrs, ~£7). Niš is cheap and lively; eat at a kafana on Kazandžijsko Sokače alley.

🚌Buses Požarevac→Despotovac→Niš ~£10, local taxi loop ~£15 pp

🛏Hostel in Niš centre (~£12–18)

• →Manasija Monastery
• →Resavska Cave
• →Ravanica Monastery

Walkable day: Mediana Roman archaeological site (~£2.50), the macabre Skull Tower (Ćele Kula, ~£2.50), Niš Fortress (free), and the Crveni Krst concentration camp memorial (free). Optional half-day trip to Niška Banja spa. Cheap lunch of burek (~£2) and an evening of local craft beer.

🚌Walking + local bus ~£2

🛏Hostel in Niš (~£12–18)

• →Mediana Archaeological Site
• →Skull Tower Museum
• →Niš Fortress
• →Crveni Krst memorial

This is the day the guided tour's private car really helps — replace it by taking a bus to Prokuplje or Kuršumlija (~£4) and a local taxi up to Đavolja Varoš ('Devil's Town') earth pyramids (~£20–25 return shared, entry ~£3). Then bus to Kraljevo (~2 hrs, ~£5) for the night. Ask your accommodation to pre-book the taxi for reliability.

🚌Bus + return taxi to Đavolja Varoš ~£14 pp share

🛏Guesthouse in Kraljevo (~£18–25)

• →Đavolja Varoš natural monument
• →Kuršumlija area monasteries (optional)

Take a local bus to Žiča Monastery (~£1.50), then arrange a driver for the day (~£40–50 shared) to reach Maglič Castle on its clifftop (free) and Studenica Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with famous frescoes (free, donations welcome). Finish with a bus into Novi Pazar (~£3), Serbia's Ottoman-flavoured Muslim town — great ćevapi and baklava.

🚌Local bus + hired driver ~£18 pp shared

🛏Guesthouse in Novi Pazar (~£16–22)

• →Žiča Monastery
• →Maglič Castle
• →Studenica Monastery (UNESCO)

Hire a taxi for a half-day loop (~£35–45 shared) to the UNESCO cluster: Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery, Sopoćani Monastery (frescoes rivalling Studenica), the hilltop Stari Ras fortress of Gradina, and the early-Christian St. Peter and Paul Church. Afternoon back in town for the Altun-Alem Mosque and the old bazaar.

🚌Half-day taxi ~£15 pp shared

🛏Guesthouse in Novi Pazar (~£16–22)

• →Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery (UNESCO)
• →Sopoćani Monastery (UNESCO)
• →Stari Ras Fortress (UNESCO)
• →St. Peter and Paul Church

Bus to Prijepolje (~1 hr, ~£3) for Mileševa Monastery, then take a taxi to the Uvac Special Nature Reserve viewpoint (Molitva) — the famous meander viewpoint needs a driver (~£40–50 return shared) and ideally a short boat trip (~£12). Continue by bus to Zlatibor (~£4). Zlatibor is a mountain resort: cosy guesthouses, fresh air, lots of walking trails.

🚌Buses + shared taxi to Uvac ~£20 pp

🛏Mountain guesthouse/sobe in Zlatibor (~£20–28)

• →Mileševa Monastery
• →Uvac meander viewpoint & optional boat trip

Use local buses and a shared taxi to cover Stopića Cave (~£3), the Sirogojno open-air 'Staro Selo' ethno village (~£3), and Gostilje Waterfall (free). Alternatively rent a bike or rely on the resort's local transport. Evening of Zlatibor smoked ham and kajmak at a local restaurant.

🚌Local buses + short taxis ~£10

🛏Guesthouse in Zlatibor (~£20–28)

• →Stopića Cave
• →Sirogojno Ethno Village
• →Gostilje Waterfall

Take an early local bus/taxi to Mokra Gora (~£4) and ride the famous Šargan Eight heritage narrow-gauge railway (~£7, book ahead in summer). Then cross into Bosnia at Višegrad for the UNESCO Mehmed Paša Sokolović Bridge and the Kamengrad 'Andrićgrad' attraction. Afternoon bus Višegrad→Sarajevo (~2.5 hrs, ~£7). Arrive in Baščaršija in time for a Bosnian coffee and ćevapi dinner.

🚌Local transport + train ticket + Višegrad→Sarajevo bus ~£18

🛏Hostel in Baščaršija, Sarajevo (~£13–20)

• →Šargan Eight railway
• →Višegrad Bridge (UNESCO)
• →Andrićgrad/Kamengrad

Free walking tour of the historic core (tip-based, ~£5) covering Baščaršija bazaar, the Sebilj fountain, Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, the Sacred Heart Cathedral and the poignant Sarajevo Roses. Afternoon at the Gallery 11/07/95 or the War Childhood Museum (~£4 each). Eat burek at a Sač bureau and try Bosnian coffee.

🚌Walking + tram ~£1.50

🛏Hostel in Sarajevo (~£13–20)

• →Sarajevo old town free walking tour
• →Sacred Heart Cathedral
• →War Childhood Museum or Gallery 11/07/95
• →Baščaršija bazaar

Ride the rebuilt Trebević cable car (~£5) for views over the city, then take bus 9 or a taxi to the Tunnel of Hope in Ilidža (~£3 entry + ~£4 transport). Adventurous extras: the 'Bosnian pyramids' site at Visoko by bus (~£3 each way, ~£6 entry) — a quirky pseudo-archaeology attraction. Evening bus onward to Travnik (~1.5 hrs, ~£4) or overnight in Sarajevo and go tomorrow morning.

🚌Cable car + buses ~£12

🛏Guesthouse in Travnik (~£15–22) or hostel in Sarajevo

• →Sarajevo cable car to Trebević
• →Tunnel of Hope Museum
• →Bosnian Pyramids at Visoko (optional)

Morning in Travnik: the hilltop medieval Travnik Fortress (~£2), the colourful Šarena (Painted) Mosque, and the Franciscan Monastery of St. John the Baptist with its museum (~£3). Then take the bus Travnik→Mostar (~3 hrs, via Sarajevo or direct, ~£8–10). Arrive in Mostar in the late afternoon and see the Old Bridge (UNESCO) glowing at dusk.

🚌Bus Travnik→Mostar ~£9

🛏Guesthouse in Mostar old town (~£15–22)

• →Travnik Fortress
• →Šarena Mosque
• →Franciscan Monastery & museum
• →Mostar Old Bridge at dusk

Bus out to Blagaj (~£1.50) for the Dervish House (Tekija) at the Buna spring (UNESCO tentative, ~£3), then hop a bus to the medieval Ottoman village of Počitelj (~£1.50) and climb to the fortress. Combine with a small winery stop near Čitluk (Andrija-style family winery, tasting ~£1.50–3) — easiest by local bus to Čitluk plus a short taxi. Back in Mostar, eat at the riverside.

🚌Local buses + short taxi ~£8

🛏Guesthouse in Mostar (~£15–22)

• →Blagaj Dervish House & Buna spring
• →Počitelj medieval town
• →Herzegovina wine tasting

Take a local bus toward Ljubuški/Medjugorje and a short taxi to Kravica Waterfalls (~£4 entry, best in spring/early summer). Visit the Medjugorje pilgrimage centre (free) and, if you have a driver, the Roman villa ruins of Mogorjelo (~£2). A rented car or a shared taxi for the day (~£35–45) makes this loop much smoother than buses.

🚌Buses + shared taxi ~£15

🛏Guesthouse in Mostar (~£15–22)

• →Kravica Waterfall
• →Medjugorje pilgrimage site
• →Mogorjelo Roman ruins

Early bus to Stolac (~1 hr, ~£3), then a short taxi to the UNESCO Radimlja medieval stećci tombstones (~£2) and Stolac Fortress. Vjetrenica Cave needs a vehicle — a taxi from Stolac or Zavala (~£20 return shared, entry ~£5). Then bus via Trebinje (~£4). Trebinje is pretty, warm and relaxed, with a walled old town and riverside cafés.

🚌Bus + shared taxi ~£17

🛏Guesthouse in Trebinje old town (~£15–22)

• →Radimlja stećci (UNESCO)
• →Stolac Fortress
• →Vjetrenica Cave

Slow day. Bus or taxi out to Tvrdoš Monastery (~£2), a 15th-century Orthodox monastery with its own wine cellar (tastings ~£3). Back in town, wander the Hercegovačka Gračanica church on the hill above Trebinje, the Arslanagić Bridge and the plane-tree-shaded old town square. Eat trout and local Vranac wine.

🚌Local bus + taxi ~£4

🛏Guesthouse in Trebinje (~£15–22)

• →Tvrdoš Monastery & wine cellar
• →Hercegovačka Gračanica church
• →Arslanagić Bridge
• →Trebinje old town

Cross into Montenegro: bus Trebinje→Herceg Novi (~1 hr, ~£3), then along the Bay of Kotor to Perast (~£3) for a boat ride to Our Lady of the Rocks islet church (~£4). Stop at Risan's Roman mosaic museum (~£2.50) and continue to Budva (~£4). Buses along the coast are frequent in season.

🚌Coastal buses ~£10

🛏Hostel or sobe room in Budva old town (~£18–28)

• →Perast coastal town
• →Our Lady of the Rocks islet church
• →Risan mosaic museum

Bus to Kotor (~£2) and do the classic hike up the city walls to Kotor Fortress (San Giovanni, ~£8 entry) for bay views, then explore the UNESCO old town's squares and cathedral. Return to Budva in the afternoon for its tiny walled old town, churches and evening beach walk along Slovenska Plaža.

🚌Buses ~£4

🛏Sobe/hostel in Budva (~£18–28)

• →Kotor old town (UNESCO)
• →Kotor Fortress hike
• →Budva old town & beach

Bus to Bar (~£3) and a local bus/taxi up to Stari Bar, the ruined old town below Rumija mountain (~£2, entry ~£2). Continue to Ulcinj (~£3), Montenegro's southernmost seaside town with an Ottoman old town, a long sandy beach and a strong Albanian-Montenegrin food culture — cheap fish dinners.

🚌Buses ~£8

🛏Guesthouse in Ulcinj (~£15–22)

• →Stari Bar ancient settlement
• →Ulcinj old town & beaches

Morning bus or shared van Ulcinj→Podgorica (~2 hrs, ~£6). Before your flight, take a local bus/taxi out to Dajbabe Monastery, a cave monastery carved into a hillside (~£2 entry/donation, ~£4 transport), then head to Podgorica airport (bus ~£1.50 or taxi ~£12). If you want a beach finale instead, use Ulcinj's Velika Plaža before departing.

🚌Bus to Podgorica + local transport ~£9

🛏Not included (departure day)

• →Dajbabe Monastery
• →Podgorica city centre (optional)