Self-Launched Real Southern Africa: Johannesburg to Kruger Overland

Land at OR Tambo and take the Gautrain to Rosebank (~£9 one-way) or an airport shuttle to a hostel in Melville/Maboneng (~£12). Spend the afternoon at the Apartheid Museum (R150, ~£6.50 — closed Mondays). Evening: walk Maboneng's food stalls and grab a braai-style dinner (~£8). Sort a local SIM (Vodacom/Telkom, ~£8 for 5GB) and withdraw rand — much of the route ahead is cash-heavy.

🚌Gautrain Rosebank ~£9 or airport shuttle ~£12

🛏Hostel dorm in Melville or Maboneng (~£14/night)

• →Apartheid Museum self visit (R150)
• →Maboneng precinct evening walk
• →Buy SIM card & stock up on cash

Take an early Intercape/Greyhound coach from Johannesburg Park Station to Palapye (~£22, 8–9 hrs), then a shared taxi or local combi to Serowe and on to Khama Rhino Sanctuary (~£6 total). Check into the sanctuary's campsite or self-catering chalet (~£16). Book the sunset game drive directly at reception (P380, ~£24) — you'll almost certainly see white rhino and plenty of plains game. Self-cater dinner at the campsite kitchen.

🚌Intercape coach JHB–Palapye ~£22 + shared taxi to Serowe/Khama ~£6

🛏Khama Rhino Sanctuary campsite or basic chalet (~£16)

• →Sunset game drive in Khama Rhino Sanctuary (book direct on arrival)
• →Serowe village wander

Combi to Palapye, then a coach/minibus west to Maun (~£18, 6–7 hrs via Serowe–Mahalapye connections; Or Tambo–Maun flights are an alternative at ~£120 if you'd rather save a day). Maun is Botswana's safari capital — book your Delta trip today with a licensed local operator (e.g. through Old Bridge Backpackers or a Maun mokoro operator). Afternoon at the Okavango River with a cold drink, plus supermarket stock-up at Spar/Choppies for Delta supplies (~£10).

🚌Local combi + coach Palapye–Maun ~£18

🛏Old Bridge Backpackers or similar hostel, Maun (~£15)

• →Book Okavango Delta mokoro trip with local operator
• →Stock up supplies in Maun

Morning transfer to the mokoro station (included in most operator packages), then glide into the Delta by traditional canoe with a poler, setting up a fly-camp on an island. Licensed 2-night Delta trips run ~£180–250 per person all-in (poler, food, camping gear, park fees); a cheaper 1-night version is ~£120. Afternoon bush walk with your poler to track elephant and zebra spoor. No signal, no facilities — bring water, headtorch, and toilet paper.

🚌4x4 transfer to mokoro station (included)

🛏Wild island fly-camp (included in Delta package)

• →Mokoro canoe safari into the Delta
• →Guided bush walk

Sunrise bush walk followed by leisurely mokoro exploring of the channels. Most operators teach you to pole the mokoro yourself and cook over the fire with you — the plate-and-pot cooking lesson is free and something the tour charges nothing for either. Swim in the shallows only if your poler says it's safe (hippo and croc rules vary by island). Second night at the fly-camp.

🚌None — on foot/mokoro

🛏Wild island fly-camp (included)

• →Sunrise bush walk
• →Learn to pole a mokoro
• →Cook over campfire with your poler

Back to Maun in the morning (~£8 shared transfer), then hop a shared 4x4/minibus east toward Gweta (~£25, 3–4 hrs). Book a 4x4 overnight excursion onto the pans directly with a Gweta lodge (Planet Baobab / Gweta Lodge run these at ~P1,500–2,200 pp, ~£100–140 including dinner and a bedroll under the stars). Baobab country — ask your guide about the trees, which is free and the highlight for many. Dry season gives you the classic cracked white pan; wet season brings flamingos and zebra.

🚌Shared transfer to Maun ~£8 + shared 4x4 Maun–Gweta ~£25

🛏Pan-edge camp under the stars or Gweta lodge (~£22 equivalent, often included)

• →4x4 Makgadikgadi salt pan excursion
• →Baobab tree walk
• →Stargazing on the pan

Shared taxi/4x4 to Nata (~£10) and then a coach or minibus up to Kasane (~£14, 3–4 hrs), on the edge of Chobe. Check into a Kasane backpackers or campsite (~£15). Book tomorrow morning's game drive with a licensed Kasane operator today at reception. Late-afternoon free walk along the Chobe riverfront — elephant cross right by town.

🚌Shared taxi to Nata ~£10 + minibus to Kasane ~£14

🛏Kasane backpackers/campsite (~£15)

• →Book Chobe game drive & river cruise
• →Riverfront sunset walk

Book the classic Chobe combo directly with a local operator: morning 4x4 game drive and an afternoon boat cruise, roughly ~£95–120 pp combined (park fees included). Chobe has the densest elephant population on earth — 50,000+ in the dry season — plus buffalo, giraffe, hippo and lion. Lunch back at the campsite (~£6). Optional sunset cruise add-on is another ~£30; skip it if the combo cruise already covers the water view.

🚌Operator pickup from accommodation

🛏Kasane backpackers/campsite (~£15)

• →Open-vehicle morning game drive
• →Chobe River boat cruise

Take a shared shuttle or local border-hop taxi across the Kazungula border to Victoria Falls town (~£10–15; get the KAZA UniVisa at the border, ~£40 and valid for Zimbabwe + Zambia day trips). Check into a Vic Falls backpackers (~£16) — Shoestrings and similar have dorms a short walk from the falls gate. Evening wander of the town, craft market and a cheap local meal at the market (~£6).

🚌Shared border shuttle ~£12

🛏Victoria Falls backpackers (~£16)

• →Kazungula border crossing & KAZA UniVisa
• →Vic Falls town orientation walk

Pay the falls entrance fee yourself (USD50, ~£39) and walk the rainforest trail loop — allow 2–3 hours, get soaked in high-water season. Optional extras priced directly: bridge tour (~£53), standard sunset cruise (~£35 + USD10 park fee), white-water rafting (~£99 + park fee), 12-min helicopter (~£118 + fuel/park fees). Skip the group dinner and instead book a village-style Zimbabwean meal with a community outfit like the White Star/Chinotimba groups for ~£15–20 — you eat goat stew and peanut-butter rice and there's no fixed 'tip', just what you choose to give.

🚌Walkable town; taxi ~£3

🛏Victoria Falls backpackers (~£16)

• →Victoria Falls rainforest walk (USD50)
• →Traditional Zimbabwean dinner & cultural performance (~£18)
• →Optional: sunset cruise, rafting, helicopter

Shared taxi/minibus to Hwange (~£18, 2.5–3 hrs) then arrange a 4x4 game drive with a Hwange operator or your lodge (~£45–60 pp for a half/full day incl. park fees USD20). Hwange is Zimbabwe's largest park and its pumped waterholes pull in huge elephant herds in the dry season. If you want to see the Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust work, visit their centre in Vic Falls before you leave (small entrance fee, ~£5) rather than paying for a transfer later.

🚌Shared minibus Vic Falls–Hwange ~£18

🛏Hwange lodge/campsite near Main Camp (~£18)

• →Hwange 4x4 game drive
• →Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust visit (before departure)

Coach or minibus Hwange–Bulawayo (~£10, 3 hrs). Spend a couple of hours in Bulawayo's colonial-era centre — the Natural History Museum (small fee) and the wide Victorian-style streets are free to wander. Then a shared taxi or local minibus out to Matobo (~£6) to a community campsite or backpackers. Cook-in dinner (~£5) — this is the point where the original tour leaves you stranded unless you buy the rhino tracking, so budget for it deliberately (Day 13).

🚌Coach Hwange–Bulawayo ~£10 + shared taxi to Matobo ~£6

🛏Matobo community campsite/lodge (~£15)

• →Bulawayo city walk
• →Natural History Museum
• →Transfer to Matobo

Book rhino tracking directly with a Matobo guide (community-run options exist at ~£60–80 pp versus the ~£140 (≈£180 with park fees) the tour charges — ask your campsite to arrange, and don't be upsold a private vehicle). Afternoon guided walk to see ancient San bushman paintings in the hills (a guide with park entry, ~£15–25). The hills are also the burial site of Cecil Rhodes. This is the day the original itinerary calls 'optional' while giving you nothing else to do — self-launching means you choose the cheaper community guide.

🚌Local 4x4 with guide (included in activity price)

🛏Matobo community campsite/lodge (~£15)

• →Rhino tracking with local guide
• →San rock art hike
• →Matobo Hills viewpoints

Shared taxi to Bulawayo (~£6), then the long cross-border run south via Beitbridge to Musina (~£20 coach/minibus, 6–7 hrs) and a local taxi to Tshipise (~£8). Tshipise Forever Resort has hot mineral springs, pools and a nature trail — a cheap day of rest before Kruger (day-pass or campsite ~£10). Putt-putt golf and the self-guided nature trail are free. Self-cater at the campsite shop.

🚌Shared taxi ~£6 + coach via Beitbridge ~£20 + taxi ~£8

🛏Tshipise Forever Resort campsite/chalet (~£16)

• →Beitbridge border crossing
• →Tshipise hot springs & nature trail

Local taxi to Phalaborwa or Punda Maria gate (~£15), then enter Kruger — book SANParks rest camp accommodation (e.g. Letaba, Olifants, Skukuza) yourself online months ahead; a safari tent or hut is ~£45–60 per night for two, so ~£25–30 pp sharing. Self-drive isn't practical solo, so join a SANParks sunset/night drive or a morning guided drive from the camp (~£20–25 pp). Self-cater — rest camps have well-stocked shops and communal kitchens. Pay the SANParks conservation fee (~£22/day).

🚌Taxi to gate ~£15 + park roads

🛏SANParks rest camp safari tent (~£28 pp sharing)

• →Enter Kruger via Phalaborwa gate
• →SANParks guided game drive

Full-day guided game drive with a camp-based operator (~£45–60 pp) or join the cheaper ~3-hour morning drive plus an afternoon drive (~£40 total). Kruger is the best-value Big Five park in Africa and you are very likely to tick lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino and leopard over two days. Optional sunset drive (~£21) or night drive (~£16) if you want to see nocturnal species. Cook dinner at the camp.

🚌Operator game-drive vehicle

🛏SANParks rest camp safari tent (~£28 pp sharing)

• →Full-day game drive
• →Optional sunset or night drive

Early-morning game drive out of the park while the light is good (~£20), then the long road: taxi to Nelspruit/Mbombela (~£15) and the Intercape/Greyhound coach to Johannesburg (~£20, 4.5 hrs). Continue to OR Tambo for onward flights. If you've got a late flight, drop bags at the airport and take the Gautrain to Rosebank for a last meal (~£12).

🚌Taxi to Nelspruit ~£15 + coach to JHB ~£20

🛏None (departure day)

• →Final morning game drive
• →Return coach to Johannesburg