Thailand: Bangkok to Chiang Mai, Self-Launched

Land and settle into a guesthouse near Banglamphu or in Silom (BTS/MRT access matters more than charm). Late afternoon, walk Pak Khlong Talat flower market as it ramps up for the evening, then take a short cross-river ferry (about 5 THB) to Wat Arun for sunset. Eat at a street stall on Soi Rambuttri and finish on Khao San Road. Book tomorrow's canal boat directly with a long-tail operator at Tha Chang or Tha Tien pier rather than through a hotel — agree the price and route (Khlong Bangkok Noi / Mon community) before boarding.

🚌Airport rail link + MRT (~£1.5) or Grab from the airport (~£10-13); river ferry 5 THB

🛏Budget guesthouse or hostel private twin near Banglamphu/Silom, £12-18

• →Pak Khlong Talat flower market (free)
• →Wat Arun sunset from the river (50 THB)
• →Khao San Road and Soi Rambuttri wander
• →Thai foot massage (~250-300 THB)

Do the Intrepid canal day yourself: early flower market visit with a lotus-folding demonstration at one of the stalls (stalls happily show you for a small tip), a long-tail boat up Khlong Bangkok Noi to the Artist's House (Baan Silapin) in Thonburi — check their Facebook page for puppet-show times and time your boat accordingly. Lunch at a riverside restaurant on the Thonburi side. In the afternoon take the public bus from Sai Tai Mai (Southern) terminal to Kanchanaburi — roughly 2-2.5 hrs, about 100-120 THB, no advance booking needed. Overnight near the River Kwai bridge or the guesthouse strip on Maenamkwai Road.

🚌Long-tail canal boat ~1,000-1,500 THB per boat split between travellers (~£12-17 each); public bus Bangkok-Kanchanaburi ~120 THB (~£3)

🛏Riverside guesthouse in Kanchanaburi, £10-16

• →Flower market and lotus petal folding (free/tip)
• →Long-tail boat through Thonburi khlongs
• →Baan Silapin Artist's House visit and puppet show (donation)
• →Riverside lunch

Catch the public bus from Kanchanaburi bus station to Erawan National Park (about 1.5 hrs, ~50-60 THB each way; first bus around 8am — go early, the falls get crowded and the top tiers close mid-afternoon). Pay the 300 THB park entry and walk up through all seven tiers, swimming in the emerald pools. Wear grippy shoes; the upper tiers are slippery. Bring water and snacks because food inside the park is limited. Back in town by late afternoon: optionally visit the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre and the Bridge over the River Kwai, or take a floating raft ride on the Kwai Noi. Note: buses back can be slow — don't leave later than 4pm.

🚌Local bus Kanchanaburi-Erawan return ~110 THB (~£2.5)

🛏Riverside guesthouse in Kanchanaburi, £10-16

• →Erawan National Park entry 300 THB
• →Swimming at Erawan Falls
• →Optional: Thailand-Burma Railway Centre (140 THB)
• →Optional: river raft ride ~300 THB

Take a local bus or train to Ayutthaya — the cheapest route is a bus to Suphanburi or Nakhon Pathom and a connecting train, or simply a direct minibus from Kanchanaburi bus station (about 2.5-3 hrs, roughly 150-200 THB). Drop bags at a guesthouse on the island. Then hire a bicycle (50-80 THB for the day) and do the ruins yourself: Wat Phra Mahathat with its Buddha head in the tree roots, Wat Ratchaburana, and Wat Chaiwatthanaram across the river for sunset. Buy the combined temple ticket (220 THB) at the first site. A self-guided audio app or a printed map from your guesthouse is plenty; a private guide isn't needed.

🚌Bus/minibus Kanchanaburi-Ayutthaya ~200 THB (~£4.5); bicycle hire ~70 THB

🛏Guesthouse on Ayutthaya's historic island, £12-18

• →Wat Phra Mahathat and Buddha head
• →Wat Ratchaburana
• →Wat Chaiwatthanaram sunset
• →Ayutthaya combined temple pass 220 THB

Morning at Wat Lokayasutharam and the elephant kraal area, or a slow cycle loop of the north side before the heat builds. Early afternoon take the local train from Ayutthaya to Lopburi or straight through to Phitsanulok and change for Chiang Mai, or the simpler option: a 1.5-hr ordinary train to Bangkok's Bang Sue/Don Mueang, then an overnight sleeper from Krung Thep Aphiwat. Book the sleeper on the SRT D-Ticket app or at the station two or three days ahead — second-class upper berth runs about 700-900 THB. Board early evening, eat at the station, and sleep as the train climbs north.

🚌Local train Ayutthaya-Bangkok ~40 THB; overnight sleeper Bangkok-Chiang Mai ~800-900 THB (~£19-21)

🛏SRT second-class sleeper train, upper berth ~800 THB

• →Wat Lokayasutharam reclining Buddha
• →Bicycle ruins loop
• →Overnight sleeper train experience

Arrive mid-morning, walk the old city moat to a guesthouse in the southeast quadrant and take a slow orientation walk of the temples inside the walls (Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Phra Singh). For Doi Suthep, skip the tour: from Chang Phueak bus station take a songthaew to the mountain road junction then a shared songthaew to the temple (about 100-150 THB total return if you share; around £2-3). Evening: Chiang Mai Night Bazaar or the Saturday/Sunday walking street depending on the day, dinner at a riverside restaurant or a khao soi stall (60-80 THB).

🚌Songthaews around town 30-40 THB; shared songthaew to Doi Suthep ~£3 return

🛏Guesthouse in Chiang Mai old city, £12-18

• →Doi Suthep Temple Complex (30 THB foreigner entry)
• →Wat Chedi Luang (50 THB)
• →Night Bazaar / Walking Street
• →Khao soi dinner

Book ChangChill directly through their own website at least a few days ahead — this is the same observation-only, no-riding sanctuary Intrepid uses, and direct booking includes hotel pickup, lunch and entry (roughly £70-80 for the full day, though rates vary by season and group size — confirm at the time of booking). You'll feed elephants, walk with them and learn about the community's approach to ethical tourism. Back in Chiang Mai by late afternoon: night market, a cooking-class taster, or just a beer on the moat.

🚌Sanctuary pickup and drop-off included in the day-trip price

🛏Guesthouse in Chiang Mai old city, £12-18

• →ChangChill Elephant Sanctuary full-day observation programme
• →Elephant education session
• →Chiang Mai night market

The Intrepid community day (Baan Hua Thung) needs a host, so the honest self-launched substitute is a village walk in Chiang Dao, about 1.5 hrs north. Public bus from Chiang Mai Arcade terminal to Chiang Dao (roughly 50-70 THB), then walk or songthaew to a village and the Chiang Dao cave area; local homestay or community tourism groups in the valley can arrange a basket-weaving or forest walk session for a modest fee if you contact them in advance. Visit Wat Tham Chiang Dao and the forest, have lunch at a village shop, then bus back to Chiang Mai for your final night — or stay out in Chiang Dao for a quieter evening. Departure the following morning.

🚌Public bus Chiang Mai-Chiang Dao return ~120 THB (~£3); songthaew in the valley ~£2

🛏Guesthouse in Chiang Mai, £12-18 (or a Chiang Dao homestay ~£10)

• →Chiang Dao village walk
• →Wat Tham Chiang Dao caves (30-40 THB)
• →Optional village weaving/forest walk session ~£8-12
• →Chiang Dao valley viewpoints