Self-Launched Transylvania: 7-Day Independent Loop from Bucharest

Land at Otopeni and take the 780 bus or the CFR airport train link to Gara de Nord (~£1), then the InterRegio train to Sibiu (roughly 5.5–6.5 hrs, ~£15–20 booked on cfrcalatori.ro). Arrive late afternoon, check into a hostel or family guesthouse in the Lower Town (Piața Mică side), then wander the Large Square and Liar's Bridge at dusk. If it's a weekend, the terraces on Piața Mică fill up fast. Book the train a few days ahead — slower Regio options are cheaper but add 2+ hours.

🚌Otopeni airport bus/train to Gara de Nord (~£1) + InterRegio train Bucharest–Sibiu (~£15–20)

🛏Hostel or family guesthouse in Sibiu old town (dorm ~£12–18, private double ~£30)

• →Walk Piața Mare and Piața Mică
• →Liar's Bridge and the Lower Town
• →Optional: Brukenthal Museum (~£3)
• →Optional: Holy Trinity Cathedral and the 1494 pharmacy house

Corvin (Hunyadi) Castle at Hunedoara is the big Gothic set-piece — walk the bridge, moat and knights' hall. Get there by InterRegio train Sibiu–Hunedoara/Simeria (around 2–2.5 hrs each way, ~£8 return) and walk 20 minutes from the station, or take a direct bus if one runs that day. Entry is roughly £5–6. Do the castle in the morning, back in Sibiu for late afternoon, then take yourself on an evening loop of the old town — the illuminated towers, the three squares, and the 13th-century cathedral are all free to walk. Cheap dinner of ciorbă and mici in the Lower Town.

🚌InterRegio train Sibiu–Hunedoara return (~£8) + local bus/walk

🛏Hostel or family guesthouse in Sibiu old town

• →Self-guided Corvin Castle visit (~£6 entry)
• →Evening walk of Sibiu's three squares and towers
• →Optional: Council Tower climb (~£1)

Morning at the Astra Open Air Village Museum in Dumbrava Forest — Romanian wooden churches, mills and farmsteads spread over a lakeside park; entry around £3, reachable on city bus 13 or a 30-minute walk from the centre. Then take the train or bus Sibiu–Mediaș (~1 hr, ~£3) and a local bus or short taxi to Biertan (the Saxon fortified church with the famous divorce room, ~£4 entry). Late afternoon continue by train Mediaș–Sighișoara (~1 hr, ~£3). Check into a guesthouse inside the walled citadel — the whole upper town is a UNESCO site.

🚌Sibiu–Mediaș train/bus (~£3) + local bus to Biertan (~£2) + Mediaș–Sighișoara train (~£3)

🛏Guesthouse inside Sighișoara citadel (double ~£28–35)

• →Astra Open Air Village Museum (~£3)
• →Biertan fortified church, UNESCO (~£4)
• →Evening walk of Sighișoara citadel and Clock Tower square

Take a local bus or shared taxi (maxi-taxi) from Sighișoara towards Bunești/Rupea and hop off at Viscri — the whitewashed fortified church Prince Charles helped put on the map (~£4 entry; the village lanes and Saxon farmhouses are free to walk). From Rupea, climb to the fortress on the hill (~£4 entry, dramatic Dacian-site views). Continue by train Rupea/Hoghiz–Brașov (30–50 min, ~£3). Base yourself in Brașov's old town. In the evening do your own night walk: Council Square, the Black Church silhouette, St Catherine's Gate and the narrow Rope Street.

🚌Local bus/shared taxi Sighișoara–Viscri–Rupea (~£5 total) + train Rupea–Brașov (~£3)

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in Brașov old town (dorm ~£13–18)

• →Viscri fortified church and village walk (~£4)
• →Rupea Fortress climb (~£4)
• →Brașov old town night walk: Council Square, Black Church, Rope Street

Take the early train Brașov–Sinaia (~1 hr, ~£3) and walk 20 minutes uphill to Peleș Castle; book the ground-floor or full tour slot online in advance (Peleș fills up, closed Mondays; ~£8–10, and Pelișor next door ~£3). Back down to Sinaia station, train to Brașov (~£3), then bus 20 or 23 from Brașov to Bran (~50 min, ~£1.50). Bran Castle (Dracula's Castle in marketing terms) is ~£8–10 entry — go after 2pm to dodge the worst of the coach crowds. On the way back stop at Râșnov, bus or a 30-minute walk up to the fortress (~£4) with its Carpathian panorama. Last bus back to Brașov around 19:00–20:00.

🚌Brașov–Sinaia–Brașov train (~£6) + Brașov–Bran local bus (~£3 return) + Râșnov hop

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in Brașov old town

• →Peleș Castle guided tour (~£9)
• →Pelișor Castle (~£3)
• →Bran Castle (~£9)
• →Râșnov Fortress (~£4)

This is the day the group tour does on foot — and you can replicate it cheaply. Take the bus or train from Brașov to Zărnești (~45 min, ~£2) and then a local bus or short taxi up to Peștera village (~£3); some guesthouses will pick you up. Walk the marked trail between Peștera and Măgura (2–3 hrs, up to 12 km, easy-medium, well signposted) through hay meadows and past shepherds' huts under the Piatra Craiului ridge. Visit the small Bat Cave (Peștera Liliecilor) near Peștera, and stop for a cheese plate and țuică at one of the village guesthouses along the way (~£8–10). Buses back to Zărnești/Brașov run until early evening — confirm the last one locally.

🚌Brașov–Zărnești bus/train (~£2) + local bus/taxi to Peștera (~£3) + return

🛏Hostel or budget guesthouse in Brașov old town

• →Măgura–Peștera village hike (free)
• →Bat Cave near Peștera (free/small donation)
• →Cheese tasting at a village guesthouse (~£9)
• →Optional: extend the walk towards Șirnea

Morning free in Brașov — climb the White Tower, wander the Schei district, or grab a final covrig and coffee on Council Square. Then take the InterRegio train Brașov–Bucharest Gara de Nord (~2.5 hrs, ~£12–15) and the airport bus/train out to Otopeni. If your flight is early the next morning, staying one night near Gara de Nord is cheaper and easier than the airport hotels. Book the train the day before — afternoon services do sell out in season.

🚌InterRegio train Brașov–Bucharest (~£13) + airport bus/train (~£1)

🛏Not included — onward travel or optional budget hotel near Gara de Nord (~£30)

• →White Tower and Black Tower viewpoints
• →Schei district wander
• →Council Square coffee stop