Self-Launched Upper Dolpo Trek: Independent 24-Day Himalaya Expedition

Land at Tribhuvan International Airport and take a prepaid taxi (~NPR 800-1,000 / £5-6) or the local Sajha bus to Thamel. Today is for paperwork: visit the Nepal Tourism Board office or a trekking agency to confirm your Upper Dolpo restricted-area permit (US$10/week for the first 4 weeks plus a US$500/10-day royalty — roughly £700-750 for a 24-day route, shared between at least two trekkers), your TIMS card (~£16) and Sagarmatha/Annapurna Conservation Area entry as applicable. Book your Kathmandu–Nepalgunj flight for the next day (Buddha Air or Yeti Airlines, ~£120-150 one way; buy early). Buy a local SIM (Ncell or NTC, ~£2-3) and top up data. Overnight in a Thamel guesthouse.

🚌Airport taxi ~£5; city walking/local buses

🛏Thamel guesthouse, private room (~£12)

• →Permit and TIMS paperwork
• →Book Kathmandu–Nepalgunj flight
• →Buy Nepali SIM card
• →Thamel gear shopping and rental

Use the day to acclimatise and see the valley's UNESCO sites independently: Boudhanath stupa (entry ~£3), Pashupatinath (entry ~£8) and Swayambhunath (entry ~£2), or a local bus to Patan Durbar Square. Stock up on stove fuel, gas canisters, snacks and any missing kit in Thamel — gear rental (down jacket, sleeping bag) is cheap here (~£3-5/day or ~£40-60 for the trek). Confirm your guide and porter arrangement if you haven't already; agencies will typically quote roughly £20-25/day for a guide. Overnight Thamel.

🚌Local buses/microbuses ~£3

🛏Thamel guesthouse, private room (~£12)

• →Boudhanath stupa
• →Pashupatinath Temple
• →Swayambhunath stupa
• →Gear rental and fuel purchase

Fly Kathmandu–Nepalgunj (~1h, book direct with Buddha Air or Yeti, ~£120-150; the tourist bus is ~15-18 hours for ~£15 if you're on a tight budget). Nepalgunj is hot, low and flat — a big change from the hills. Pick up any remaining supplies and confirm your onward arrangement with your guide. Overnight in a simple hotel near the bus park.

🚌Domestic flight ~£130 (or bus ~£15)

🛏Budget hotel Nepalgunj (~£10)

• →Flight to Nepalgunj
• →Supply check and guide briefing

Fly Nepalgunj–Juphal if the weather allows (~35 min, ~£120-160, frequently delayed or cancelled — build slack into your plan), then descend ~2-3 hours on foot or by shared jeep to Dunai (~£5). If flights are cancelled, shared jeeps run from Nepalgunj via Surkhet to Dunai over 10-12 hours (~£20-25 per person, cheaper than a private jeep). Dunai has a checkpost where your restricted-area permit is checked. Overnight in a local lodge.

🚌Juphal flight ~£140 or shared jeep ~£25; short walk/jeep to Dunai ~£5

🛏Dunai lodge (~£8)

• →Permit checkpost at Dunai
• →Bheri river valley views

First full trekking day: follow the Phoksundo Khola upstream through pine and cypress forest, roughly 6-7 hours to Chhepka/Ankhe (~2,800m). Teahouses here are basic but adequate; dal bhat costs ~£4-6 and a bed ~£3-5. Carry cash — there are no ATMs beyond Dunai.

🚌On foot ~6-7 hours

🛏Trail teahouse (~£4)

• →Phoksundo river valley walk

A shorter, steeper day (~5 hours) climbing through forest to Ryajik. Watch for blue sheep and langur monkeys. Tea stops along the way cost ~£1-2 each; keep water topped up and use purification tablets rather than buying bottled water.

🚌On foot ~5 hours

🛏Trail teahouse or camp (~£4)

• →Forest trail and wildlife spotting

Climb to the viewpoint over Phoksundo Lake with its unreal turquoise water, then walk into Ringmo village a few minutes beyond. Roughly 4-5 hours. There's a checkpoint for your permits at Ringmo. Lodges in Ringmo are simple but the setting is spectacular.

🚌On foot ~4-5 hours

🛏Ringmo lodge (~£5)

• →Phoksundo Lake viewpoint
• →Ringmo village

Rest and acclimatise. Walk partway around the lake toward the southern shore, visit the Tshowa (Bon) monastery and watch the waterfall. This is also the day to check weather with your guide for the Kang-La crossing. Note that swimming in the lake is not allowed — it is sacred to the local Bon community.

🚌On foot

🛏Ringmo lodge (~£5)

• →Phoksundo Lake shore walk
• →Bon monastery visit
• →Waterfall viewpoint

Leave the relative comfort of the Phoksundo valley and head into the restricted area proper, climbing steadily to a high camp at Thulodhunga (~4,800m). This is where the trip turns into a real expedition — from here you'll mostly be camping and self-catering. Camp overnight.

🚌On foot ~5 hours

🛏Camp (own tent; guide/porter carry equipment)

• →Climb into restricted Upper Dolpo

Short climb to a high camp below Kang-La pass (~5,000m+). Go slowly, hydrate and watch for altitude symptoms. The guide will want an early start tomorrow, so eat and sleep early.

🚌On foot ~3-4 hours

🛏Camp

• →High camp below Kang-La

The big day: cross Kang-La (roughly 5,350m), with the Dhaulagiri massif filling the horizon, then descend to Shey Gompa (~4,200m) — the 'Crystal Monastery' spiritual heart of Upper Dolpo. Around 7-8 hours with slow, steady altitude pacing. Camp near the gompa.

🚌On foot ~7-8 hours

🛏Camp near Shey

• →Kang-La pass crossing
• →Dhaulagiri range views
• →Arrive Shey Gompa

A proper rest day. Visit Shey Monastery with your guide (small donation ~£2-3, and you may be asked for a modest offering to view the inner shrines), and walk to the sacred Crystal Mountain (Shey Shung). This is a great time to have a slow day and let your body adapt.

🚌On foot

🛏Camp near Shey

• →Shey Monastery visit
• →Crystal Mountain circuit

Cross Saldang La (~5,150m) and descend into the wide Nanglung valley with Dhaulagiri views, continuing to Namgung Gompa (~4,300m). Around 6-7 hours. Camps here are exposed — pitch the tent facing away from the wind.

🚌On foot ~6-7 hours

🛏Camp

• →Saldang La crossing
• →Namgung Gompa

A gentler day descending to Saldang — the largest village in Upper Dolpo — where you can resupply a little from small shops and, if lucky, find a simple lodge. Around 4-5 hours. Ask about the local festival calendar: Saldang is known for its monastery rituals.

🚌On foot ~4-5 hours

🛏Simple lodge or camp (~£6)

• →Saldang village life
• →Local shops and resupply

Follow the Nanglung Khola south through terraced fields and small villages to Rakyo. Around 5-6 hours. This stretch has a few basic teahouses, so you may be able to buy dal bhat instead of cooking.

🚌On foot ~5-6 hours

🛏Teahouse or camp (~£5)

• →Nanglung valley villages

Climb steadily toward the Jyanta-La traverse and camp at a high point (~4,500m). Expect a short, steep day of around 4-5 hours. Prepare for a cold night and an early start.

🚌On foot ~4-5 hours

🛏Camp

• →Climb to high camp

Cross the pass and descend through juniper and pine to Tokyu village (~4,100m), home to an old Bon monastery worth an hour's visit. Around 6-7 hours. First signs of more regular lodging again.

🚌On foot ~6-7 hours

🛏Camp or basic lodge (~£5)

• →Pass crossing
• →Tokyu Bon monastery

Short walk (3-4 hours) into Dho Tarap, the largest settlement in the Tarap valley, with a mix of Bon and Buddhist culture. There's a health post and a few shops. If you want a break from the tent, there are very basic guesthouses in Dho (~£5-7).

🚌On foot ~3-4 hours

🛏Dho Tarap guesthouse (~£6)

• →Dho Tarap village
• →Bon chortens and monastery

Begin the long descent out of Dolpo along the Tarap Khola, losing altitude steadily through the gorge. Around 6 hours. The scenery becomes greener and warmer as you drop. Camp near the river.

🚌On foot ~6 hours

🛏Camp or teahouse (~£4)

• →Tarap Khola gorge descent

Continue down the gorge via a series of wooden bridges and cliff-cut paths — a stunning, if occasionally exposed, section. Around 5-6 hours. Watch your footing on the wet bridge planks.

🚌On foot ~5-6 hours

🛏Camp or teahouse (~£4)

• →Gorge bridges and cliff trail

Walk out toward Tarakot with its old fortress ruins, then on to Sandul Gomba. Around 5-6 hours. Teahouses become more frequent — a bed and dal bhat will cost roughly £8-10 combined.

🚌On foot ~5-6 hours

🛏Teahouse (~£4)

• →Tarakot fortress ruins
• →Sandul Gomba monastery

A shorter final trekking day of 3-4 hours to the roadhead/airstrip at Juphal. Book or confirm your Juphal–Nepalgunj flight (~£120-160) or shared jeep (~£20) for the next morning. Overnight in a simple guesthouse.

🚌On foot ~3-4 hours

🛏Juphal guesthouse (~£7)

• →Final trail day
• →Confirm onward transport

Fly Juphal–Nepalgunj and connect to Kathmandu (book the two legs together where possible; total roughly £250-300, or take the shared jeep and bus route for ~£40 if flights are grounded). Back in Thamel — hot shower, real coffee, and a celebratory momo dinner.

🚌Flights ~£270 (or bus/jeep ~£40)

🛏Thamel guesthouse (~£15)

• →Return flights
• →Thamel evening

Depending on your flight time, squeeze in a final walk through Durbar Marg or a bakery breakfast in Thamel. Prepaid airport taxi ~£5. If you're flying out late, day rooms in Thamel are cheap (~£8).

🚌Airport taxi ~£5

🛏None (departure day)

• →Departure