Self-Launched Cycling in Albania: Pogradec to Vlorë

Make your way to Pogradec, a relaxed lakeside town on the shores of Lake Ohrid, straddling the North Macedonia border. Buses run from Tirana to Pogradec for around £4–6 (roughly 3 hours). Check into your guesthouse or budget hotel near the lake, take a stroll along the waterfront promenade, and grab dinner at one of the local restaurants serving fresh lake fish. Spend the evening planning your route and getting your gear ready for the first big day in the saddle tomorrow.

🚌Bus from Tirana to Pogradec (~£5). If arriving internationally, Tirana is the nearest airport.

🛏Guesthouse Vila Gentiana or similar lakeside guesthouse (~£18–22/night)

• →Arrive in Pogradec by bus from Tirana (~£5, 3 hrs)
• →Stroll along Lake Ohrid waterfront
• →Dinner at a local lakeside restaurant — try the koran (local trout)
• →Hire a bike locally the following morning — ask your accommodation for recommendations, or try bike rental shops near the town centre (~£8–12/day)

Take an early shared minibus (furgon) from Pogradec to Korçë (~£2, 45 mins) — this is how locals travel and it's fast and cheap. From Korçë, begin your most demanding day of cycling: 72 km through barren mountain landscapes, past wildflowers and numerous cols, climbing over the Barmash Pass (1,159m) and descending into the tranquil valley at Gërmenj. Look out for the trout farms in the area — your guesthouse may well serve fresh, locally caught fish for dinner. The route follows asphalted roads, though some sections are rough.

🚌Furgon Pogradec–Korçë (~£2). Cycling from Korçë to Gërmenj (72 km, own bike hire).

🛏Farma Sotira or similar farm guesthouse in Gërmenj (~£20–25/night, often includes breakfast)

• →Furgon (shared minibus) from Pogradec to Korçë (~£2)
• →Cycle 72 km over the Barmash Pass (1,159m) to Gërmenj
• →Explore the alpine scenery of the Grammoz mountain range
• →Dinner at your guesthouse — try homemade wine and local trout

A 60 km ride through some of Albania's most dramatic scenery. Climb out of Gërmenj to a high grassy plateau near the Greek border, pass the source of the River Vjosa, and descend through its spectacular gorge to Leskovik and on to Çarshove. Follow the corniche road high above the river to Benje. After checking in to your guesthouse, cycle or walk the short distance to the natural thermal springs at Benje — a highlight of the entire trip and completely free to visit. The warm, sulphurous pools are perfect for soothing tired legs.

🚌Cycling (60 km). Roads are tarmac but some sections are poor quality — take it steady on descents.

🛏Guesthouse Coli or similar in Benje (~£18–22/night)

• →Cycle 60 km from Gërmenj through the Vjosa Gorge to Benje
• →Swim in the natural thermal springs at Benje (free entry)
• →Lunch at your guesthouse terrace with views over the river
• →Birdwatching along the Vjosa River valley

One of the easier cycling days (46 km) — a scenic valley ride towards Kelcyra between dramatic gorges where two rivers meet. After cycling, catch a local furgon or bus from Tepelene to Gjirokastra (~£3–4, 30 mins) — the same transfer used by the guided tour. Gjirokastra, the 'City of 1,000 Steps', is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Albania's most stunning towns. Spend the afternoon exploring independently: wander the cobbled lanes, peer into 18th-century Ottoman stone houses, and visit the 13th-century castle (entry ~£2). This is one of the best free-range walking cities in the Balkans.

🚌Cycling (46 km) then furgon Tepelene–Gjirokastra (~£3–4).

🛏Hotel Cajupi or similar in Gjirokastra old town (~£25–35/night)

• →Cycle 46 km along the valley towards Kelcyra
• →Lunch near Tepelene Waterfalls (pack your own or buy from a roadside stall)
• →Furgon from Tepelene to Gjirokastra (~£3–4, 30 mins)
• →Self-guided walking tour of Gjirokastra's UNESCO old town
• →Visit the 13th-century Gjirokastra Castle (entry ~£2)
• →Explore narrow Ottoman cobblestone alleys and stone tower houses

Take a local furgon up to the Muzina Pass (~£3–4, 45 mins) — saving your legs for the glorious long downhill ride to the Ionian coast. This mirrors the guided tour's support vehicle transfer perfectly and costs a fraction of the price. Stop at Butrint National Park on the way — a UNESCO World Heritage Site with extraordinary Greek, Roman and Byzantine ruins set in atmospheric wetlands. Entry costs around £8. After exploring, continue cycling the final stretch along the coast into Sarandë, a lively beach resort town with a buzzing seafront.

🚌Furgon Gjirokastra–Muzina Pass (~£3–4). Cycling (70 km) from pass to Sarandë.

🛏Hotel Nertili or similar budget hotel in Sarandë (~£25–35/night)

• →Furgon from Gjirokastra to Muzina Pass (~£3–4, 45 mins)
• →Cycle 70 km downhill from Muzina Pass along the Ionian coast to Sarandë
• →Visit Butrint National Park & UNESCO ruins (entry ~£8) — book directly at the gate
• →Swim or walk along Sarandë seafront promenade
• →Explore Sarandë's lively café and restaurant scene in the evening

Today's 54 km coastal ride is arguably the most spectacular of the tour — a series of climbs over rocky headlands rewarded with sweeping views of the Ionian Sea, before dropping into hidden bays. The Albanian Riviera is increasingly popular but still quiet compared to Croatia or Greece. Arrive in Himarë, a small fishing village with a long beach, a Communist-era promenade and plenty of seafood restaurants. Head straight to Potam Beach for a well-earned swim in crystal-clear water.

🚌Cycling (54 km) along the coastal road. The road is tarmac but hilly — some sections have steep gradients.

🛏Rondo's Hotel or similar beachside guesthouse in Himarë (~£22–30/night)

• →Cycle 54 km along the Albanian Riviera coast from Sarandë to Himarë
• →Stop at viewpoints over Ionian Sea bays and headlands
• →Swim at Potam Beach, Himarë
• →Explore Himarë's small old castle (free entry)
• →Seafood dinner on the promenade (~£8–12)

The grand finale of the cycling tour — and the toughest day. Climb out of Himarë, tackle the long ascent to Llogara Pass (1,043m) through pine forests, with the option to flag down a passing vehicle if needed (locals are very accommodating). At the top, on a clear day you can see all the way across the Adriatic to Italy. Descend through Llogara National Park — home to black pine forests, Eurasian otters and golden eagles — and coast all the way down to Vlorë on the sea. Celebrate your achievement with a seafood dinner in this lively coastal city.

🚌Cycling (60 km). Furgons run along this coastal road if needed (~£2–3 per section).

🛏Hotel Naos or similar in Vlorë (~£25–35/night)

• →Cycle 60 km from Himarë over Llogara Pass (1,043m) to Vlorë
• →Optional: take a passing furgon if the Llogara climb is too much (~£2–3)
• →Spot wildlife in Llogara National Park (golden eagles, black pine forest)
• →Views across the Adriatic to Italy from the Llogara Pass
• →Celebratory dinner in Vlorë — try fresh grilled fish and raki

Your cycling adventure ends in Vlorë. After breakfast, return your hired bike and soak up one last morning by the sea. Vlorë has a good beach, a lively market, and the Independence Monument worth a visit (free). From Vlorë, buses and furgons run regularly to Tirana (~£5–7, 2.5 hrs), where you can connect to international flights. Alternatively, extend your stay — the Albanian Riviera has plenty more to explore independently at very low cost.

🚌Bus/furgon Vlorë to Tirana (~£5–7, 2.5 hrs).

🛏N/A (departure day) — or extend at Hotel Naos (~£25–35/night)

• →Return hired bike to rental shop
• →Morning walk along Vlorë beach or visit the Independence Monument (free)
• →Bus or furgon from Vlorë to Tirana (~£5–7, 2.5 hrs) for onward travel
• →Optional: extend stay along the Albanian Riviera