Cycle the Backroads of Cuba: Self-Launched Edition

Fly into José Martí International Airport (HAV). Take a state taxi (taxi amarillo) or negotiate a shared collectivo from the airport to your casa particular in Vedado or Old Havana — expect to pay around £8–12. Casas particulares are Cuba's iconic private homestays, bookable via Airbnb or directly through hosts. Settle in, then stroll the colourful streets of La Habana Vieja. In the evening, head to a local paladar (private restaurant) for your first Cuban feast — try La Guarida or El del Frente for atmosphere.

🚌Shared collectivo taxi from HAV airport to central Havana (~£10 per person)

🛏Casa particular in Vedado or Old Havana (book via Airbnb or directly) — approx. £18–25/night

• →Arrive at HAV, take a shared collectivo taxi to Vedado (~£10)
• →Explore La Habana Vieja on foot — Plaza de la Catedral, Plaza Vieja, Malecón
• →Dinner at a local paladar in Old Havana

Rent a hybrid or mountain bike in Havana before departure (several rental shops near Parque Central, ~£12–18/day), or arrange rental in Las Terrazas itself. Take a shared bus or collectivo from Havana toward Artemisa (~£3–5), then cycle the remaining distance into the Sierra del Rosario Biosphere Reserve to the Las Terrazas community (~16 miles). Have lunch at the community-run Cafetería Lago or El Romero (Cuba's first vegetarian restaurant). In the afternoon, optionally book the zip-line at Las Terrazas directly on arrival (~£10–15). Cool off with a swim in the San Juan River. Stay in a riverside eco-cabin or casa particular at Las Terrazas.

🚌Shared collectivo from Havana to Artemisa/Las Terrazas junction (~£4), then cycle

🛏Eco-cabin or casa particular at Las Terrazas community (~£20–28/night)

• →Cycle from outskirts of Havana to Las Terrazas (~16 miles, mostly uphill)
• →Lunch at a community-run restaurant in Las Terrazas
• →Optional zip-line adventure over the forest (~£12)
• →Swim in the San Juan River
• →Dinner at El Romero vegetarian restaurant

Grab breakfast at the hotel overlooking the forest before setting off on today's longest ride (~47 miles). Descend from the biosphere reserve through the valley, passing through the rural agricultural landscapes of Artemisa and Pinar del Río provinces. The route is mostly flat once you're out of the hills. San Diego de los Baños is a quiet, off-the-beaten-track former spa town — a genuine hidden gem. Check into a local casa particular and enjoy the peaceful evening vibe.

🚌Cycling — support yourself by arranging a local taxi for luggage transfer if needed (~£10–15)

🛏Casa particular in San Diego de los Baños (~£15–20/night)

• →Cycle from Las Terrazas to San Diego de los Baños (~47 miles via rural backroads)
• →Pass through villages of Artemisa and Pinar del Río provinces
• →Evening stroll around San Diego de los Baños — explore the old thermal baths area

Today's ride (~42 miles) is one of the most historically rich. Start by cycling through Parque La Güira, a vast estate with atmospheric ruins. Stop at Cueva de los Portales — Che Guevara's command centre during the Cuban Missile Crisis — a free and fascinating site. Continue north through tobacco farms and quiet countryside to the barely-touristed fishing village of Puerto Esperanza on the north coast. In the evening, ask your casa host to connect you with the local community cultural project, La Camorra, for traditional Creole music — these sessions are often self-bookable with a small donation (~£5–8).

🚌Cycling — luggage can be sent ahead by local taxi or rented van (~£10)

🛏Casa particular in Puerto Esperanza (~£12–18/night)

• →Cycle through Parque La Güira
• →Visit Cueva de los Portales — Che Guevara's Cuban Missile Crisis hideout (free entry)
• →Cycle through tobacco farms toward the north coast (~42 miles total)
• →Evening Creole music session with La Camorra community project (~£5–8 donation)

Cycle the quiet backroads out of Puerto Esperanza toward Cayo Jutias (~15 miles), a stunning 7-mile white sand beach causeway largely undiscovered by tourists. Swim and snorkel in the crystal-clear Caribbean — bring your own snorkel gear or rent on the beach (~£5). Enjoy a relaxed seafood lunch at the beachside restaurant on the cay. In the afternoon, arrange a shared taxi or local transport from Cayo Jutias to Viñales (~£8–12 per person), where you'll spend two nights. Viñales is a small, walkable town — stroll the main street in the evening and watch the sunset over the mogotes.

🚌Cycling to Cayo Jutias, then shared taxi to Viñales (~£10)

🛏Casa particular in Viñales (~£15–22/night)

• →Cycle backroads from Puerto Esperanza to Cayo Jutias (~15 miles)
• →Swim and snorkel in the Caribbean at Cayo Jutias beach
• →Lunch at the beachside restaurant on the cay
• →Shared taxi transfer to Viñales (~£10)
• →Evening stroll through Viñales village

A full day exploring the dramatic Viñales Valley — one of Cuba's most iconic landscapes. Rent a bike in Viñales if you haven't already (~£8–12/day local rate). Cycle to the Mural de la Prehistoria, a huge prehistoric mural painted on a mogote hillside (small entry fee ~£1). Visit working tobacco farms — most welcome cyclists and give informal tours in exchange for a small tip. Head to Cueva del Indio for a self-booked boat ride along the subterranean river (~£5–8, book on arrival). Spend the afternoon at your own pace — Viñales rewards slow exploration.

🚌Hire a local bike in Viñales (~£10/day)

🛏Casa particular in Viñales (~£15–22/night)

• →Cycle through Viñales Valley amid limestone mogotes (~24 miles)
• →Visit Mural de la Prehistoria (~£1 entry)
• →Stop at tobacco farms for a guided tour and cigar-rolling demo (tip the farmer ~£2–3)
• →Boat ride through Cueva del Indio underground river (~£6)
• →Free afternoon in Viñales — explore at leisure

Fuel up on breakfast at your casa before a final morning ride through the Viñales Valley (~29 miles north), soaking up the towering mountains and mogotes one last time. Visit Los Portales cave — another Che Guevara Missile Crisis site — before stopping for a picnic lunch. In the afternoon, take the Viazul public bus from Viñales back to Havana (~3 hours, ~£8–12). Book in advance at the Viazul terminal or online at viazul.com. Return to your original casa particular in Havana. Celebrate your final evening with dinner and mojitos at a paladar, then head out to find live music — Casa de la Música or La Zorra y el Cuervo are Cuban classics.

🚌Viazul bus from Viñales to Havana (~£10)

🛏Casa particular in Havana Vedado (~£18–25/night)

• →Final morning cycle through Viñales Valley (~29 miles)
• →Visit Los Portales cave — Che Guevara's Missile Crisis command post
• →Picnic lunch en route
• →Viazul public bus from Viñales to Havana (~3 hrs, ~£10)
• →Farewell dinner and mojitos at a local paladar
• →Live music at Casa de la Música or La Zorra y el Cuervo

Depending on your flight time, take a final morning walk through La Habana Vieja — the crumbling colonial grandeur, vintage cars, and street musicians are best enjoyed slowly. Grab a coffee at a local café. When it's time, take a state taxi or shared collectivo from your casa to José Martí International Airport (~£8–12). Tip your casa host before you leave — euros are appreciated in Cuba.

🚌Shared collectivo taxi to HAV airport (~£10)

🛏N/A — departure day

• →Final morning walk through La Habana Vieja — Plaza de Armas, Capitolio, Malecón
• →Coffee at a local café
• →Shared collectivo or state taxi to HAV airport (~£10)