Cycle the Jordan Trail to Petra: Self-Launched Edition

Fly into Queen Alia International Airport (AMM) and make your own way to Madaba, Jordan's mosaic city, about 30km south of Amman. Skip the included airport transfer and take the JETT or Trust bus from the airport to Madaba's town centre for around £3–4, or share a taxi with fellow travellers for ~£8–10 total. Check into a central guesthouse — Mariam Hotel or Mosaic City Hotel are excellent, well-reviewed budget options in the heart of town. Spend the evening wandering the old town, visiting the famous Byzantine mosaic map at St George's Church (free or small donation), and fuelling up with a cheap and filling dinner of mansaf or falafel at a local restaurant. This is a great day to sort your bike hire — contact local operator Cycling Jordan or Dana Biosphere Reserve visitor centre in advance to arrange bike collection on Day 2.

🚌JETT or Trust International bus from AMM to Madaba ~£3–4; shared taxi ~£8–10

🛏Mariam Hotel or Mosaic City Hotel, Madaba — budget double/twin ~£18–22/night

• →Take JETT/Trust bus or shared taxi from AMM airport to Madaba (~£3–8)
• →Check in to Mariam Hotel or Mosaic City Hotel (~£18–22/night)
• →Visit St George's Church and the Byzantine mosaic map (free/donation)
• →Explore Madaba old town and grab a traditional dinner
• →Confirm bike rental and Day 2 logistics with local hire operator

Take an early bus or shared taxi south from Madaba toward Dana (change at Qadisiyyah junction, ~2.5hrs, ~£6–8). Dana Biosphere Reserve is managed by the RSCN — pay the entry fee at the visitor centre (included in the Jordan Pass if you've bought one, otherwise ~£8). Collect your pre-arranged hired mountain bike here or from Feynan Ecolodge area. Load up your daypack with essentials — the support vehicle is now you and your own planning, so pack light but smart with water, snacks and a first aid kit. Ride the historic King's Highway south through rocky hill country, passing by Shobak Castle (Jordan Pass entry or ~£3). Arrange a lunch stop with a local Bedouin family through the RSCN visitor centre or a pre-booked guide — the RSCN can connect you with community hosts for a traditional meal (~£8–12). Continue riding along the upper Araba Valley rim tracks using the Jordan Trail GPX route (free download at jordantrail.org). Camp wild at a designated RSCN wild camping spot or a community-run site near Wadi Araba with sweeping desert views (~£5–8/person).

🚌Bus/shared taxi Madaba to Dana ~£6–8; self-powered cycling all day

🛏RSCN wild camping, Wadi Araba rim — ~£5–8/person

• →Bus/shared taxi from Madaba to Dana (~£6–8)
• →Pay Dana Biosphere entry (free with Jordan Pass, otherwise ~£8)
• →Collect hired mountain bike (Scott or equivalent, ~£20–25/day)
• →Ride the King's Highway — pass Shobak Castle (~£3 entry or Jordan Pass)
• →Lunch with a Bedouin family via RSCN community programme (~£10)
• →Download Jordan Trail GPX tracks free from jordantrail.org
• →Wild camp at RSCN-designated site near Wadi Araba (~£5–8)

Rise early, pack up camp and begin the day's ride straight from the wilderness camp — the toughest day on the route with around 2,700ft of climbing across 22 miles. Follow the Jordan Trail GPX tracks north through dry wadis, then climb to the upper rim of the Araba Valley for sweeping views toward the Petra mountains. The route is almost entirely gravel and dirt track — proper wilderness riding. Pack extra water (at least 3 litres) as resupply points are scarce. Descend toward the entrance of Little Petra (Siq al-Barid) in the early afternoon — entry is free and it's genuinely impressive with Nabataean rock-cut architecture. Explore on foot for an hour or two at your own pace. Arrange your overnight stay at Little Petra Bedouin Camp or Ammarin Bedouin Camp, both of which can be booked directly or via their websites/WhatsApp for ~£25–35/person including dinner and breakfast. These are genuine Bedouin-run glamping camps with fire torches, rugs and starlit tents — same experience as the guided tour.

🚌Self-powered cycling all day; GPX navigation via Jordan Trail app

🛏Little Petra Bedouin Camp or Ammarin Bedouin Camp — ~£25–35/person half board

• →Early camp pack-up and self-navigated wilderness ride (22 miles, ~2,700ft climb)
• →Carry 3+ litres of water — no resupply points on route
• →Descend to Little Petra / Siq al-Barid (free entry)
• →Self-guided explore of Nabataean rock-cut settlement
• →Book directly into Little Petra Bedouin Camp or Ammarin Camp (~£25–35 HB)

Start early — the backdoor route into Petra is best done in the cool morning hours. The 'back route' via Wadi Muthlim or the High Place trail from Little Petra is used by independent hikers; grab a local guide from the camp for ~£15–20 for a 3–4 hour guided morning hike through ancient Nabataean pathways into the heart of Petra (highly recommended — these trails aren't well-signed and a local guide adds huge context). Your Petra entry is included in the Jordan Pass (£90 total, covering visa + 3-day Petra entry — well worth it), otherwise a single-day Petra ticket costs £45. Explore the Treasury, the Street of Facades and the Monastery at your own pace for 2–3 hours before exiting. From the Petra Visitor Centre, arrange a local taxi to the village of Rajif (~£12–15, share if you can). From Rajif, rejoin your bike for the off-road descent through dirt tracks down toward Wadi Rum. A local Bedouin family wild camp near Wadi Rum can be booked via Wadi Rum operators such as Rahayeb Desert Camp or Bedouin Directions (~£15–20/person for camping with dinner).

🚌Local taxi Petra to Rajif ~£12–15; self-powered cycling descent to Wadi Rum

🛏Bedouin wild camp near Wadi Rum — ~£15–20/person including dinner

• →Backdoor hike into Petra — hire a local guide from camp (~£15–20)
• →Petra entry (included in Jordan Pass, otherwise ~£45 single day)
• →Self-explore the Treasury, Colonnaded Street and Monastery (2–3hrs)
• →Local taxi Petra Visitor Centre to Rajif (~£12–15)
• →Off-road bike descent toward Wadi Rum on dirt tracks
• →Wild camp with Bedouin family near Wadi Rum (~£15–20 including dinner)

The longest day in the saddle — 37 miles through the heart of the Arabian desert. Follow the Jordan Trail GPX tracks through ancient caravan paths and across the dramatic Desert Highway crossing. The landscape shifts beautifully from rocky desert to wide sandy plains, with the iconic sandstone buttes of Wadi Rum rising in the distance. Carry a full hydration pack and pack extra food — this is remote riding. On arrival at Wadi Rum Village, lock up your bike and book a shared 2-hour sunset Jeep tour into the protected area through one of the many local operators at the visitor centre (~£18–22/person shared, or book in advance via GetYourGuide). This is the classic way to explore the canyons, gorges and sand dunes of Wadi Rum. Stay overnight at one of Wadi Rum's brilliant Bedouin glamping camps such as Wadi Rum Night Luxury Camp, Memories Aicha Luxury Camp, or Rahayeb Camp — book directly for best rates (~£35–55/person including dinner and breakfast).

🚌Self-powered cycling all day; shared Jeep tour within Wadi Rum ~£18–22

🛏Wadi Rum Bedouin glamping camp (e.g. Rahayeb Desert Camp or Wadi Rum Night Luxury Camp) — ~£35–55/person half board

• →Long desert ride 37 miles on ancient caravan tracks — carry full water supply
• →Cross the Desert Highway and ride toward Wadi Rum buttes
• →Shared sunset Jeep tour of Wadi Rum (~£18–22/person, book via GetYourGuide or direct)
• →Scramble and hike in the canyons and sand dunes
• →Glamping overnight at Wadi Rum Bedouin camp (~£35–55 HB, book direct)

Your final day on the bike. Arrange a Jeep transfer out of the deep camp to the edge of the Wadi Rum desert mudflats (ask your camp host, typically ~£8–10/person). From there, ride across the hard-packed flat desert mudflats — fast, exhilarating and a brilliant contrast to the previous days' climbing. After ~25 miles, return your hired bike to an agreed drop-off point and take a shared taxi or minibus north to Aqaba (~£4–6, ~45 minutes). Aqaba is Jordan's Red Sea resort town — check into a budget guesthouse such as Nairoukh Hotel or Al Shula Hotel (~£20–28/night). Spend the afternoon snorkelling the coral reefs — rent snorkel gear from the beach for ~£5, or book a 2-hour snorkelling trip via GetYourGuide or local dive shops (~£15–20). Grab grilled fish at the famous Aqaba fish market for dinner (~£8–10).

🚌Jeep camp transfer ~£8–10; self-powered cycling; shared taxi/minibus to Aqaba ~£4–6

🛏Nairoukh Hotel or Al Shula Hotel, Aqaba — ~£20–28/night

• →Jeep transfer out of deep camp to desert mudflats (~£8–10)
• →Final 25-mile bike ride across hard-packed desert mudflats
• →Return hired bike at Aqaba drop-off point
• →Shared taxi/minibus to Aqaba (~£4–6)
• →Snorkelling on Aqaba's Red Sea coral reefs — rent gear ~£5 or guided trip ~£15–20
• →Grilled fish dinner at Aqaba fish market (~£8–10)

Today is the scenic road trip north — the same journey the guided tour makes with a few key stops. From Aqaba, book a seat on a JETT Bus to Amman (departs morning, ~4.5hrs, ~£8–10) and ask the driver to drop at the Dead Sea turnoff, or take a JETT bus to Amman and arrange a half-day taxi detour to the Dead Sea en route (~£20–25 for a private taxi detour from the highway). The most popular independent option is the Amman Beach or O Beach resort on the Dead Sea — day entry is ~£18–22/person including beach access, loungers and fresh water showers. Slather on the famous Dead Sea black mud, float effortlessly in the hyper-saline water and gaze across to the lights of Jerusalem and the West Bank. In the late afternoon, continue north to Amman by taxi or bus (~£5–8) and check into a central Amman hostel or budget hotel such as Jordan Tower Hotel or Sydney Hotel (~£18–25/night). Enjoy a final dinner in downtown Amman.

🚌JETT Bus Aqaba–Dead Sea section ~£8–10; taxi Dead Sea to Amman ~£5–8

🛏Jordan Tower Hotel or Sydney Hotel, downtown Amman — ~£18–25/night

• →JETT Bus from Aqaba toward Amman (~£8–10)
• →Dead Sea stop — day entry to Amman Beach or O Beach (~£18–22)
• →Floating, mud bath and views toward Jerusalem
• →Onward taxi/bus to Amman (~£5–8)
• →Check in to central Amman budget hotel (~£18–25)
• →Final dinner in downtown Amman — try Hashem Restaurant for foul and falafel (~£5)

Check out after breakfast and explore downtown Amman if your flight allows — the Roman Amphitheatre (free to view from outside, £1.50 entry), the Citadel with its Temple of Hercules and stunning city views (£2.50), and the bustling Souk are all within easy walking distance of the city centre hotels. When you're ready to head to the airport, take an Airport Express bus from 7th Circle or Abdali Station (~£3.50) or a metered taxi (~£12–18 depending on traffic). Queen Alia International Airport is about 35km south of the city centre. Allow at least 2.5 hours before departure.

🚌Airport Express bus to AMM ~£3.50; or metered taxi ~£12–18

🛏N/A — departure day

• →Morning explore of downtown Amman — Roman Amphitheatre and Citadel (~£2–3 entry)
• →Browse Rainbow Street and the old souk
• →Airport Express bus from 7th Circle to AMM (~£3.50) or metered taxi (~£12–18)