Forbidden Lhasa and Everest Base Camp — Self-Launched

Fly into Lhasa Gonggar from Kathmandu (China Southern / Sichuan Airlines, ~£250–£320 one-way) or via Chengdu. Your Tibet permit must be secured before the flight — this is non-negotiable for foreigners. Arrange it through a licensed Kathmandu-based Tibet operator (you'll meet them Day -5 of your trip, see practical notes). Check into a guesthouse in the Barkhor old town and do nothing but rest, drink water, and walk slowly. Skip anything strenuous today. Evening stroll around Barkhor Kora at sunset — free and the best acclimatisation activity there is.

🚌Airport shuttle bus to city centre ~£4

🛏Barkhor-area guesthouse or 2* Tibetan-run hotel (double ~£22/night)

• →Arrival transfer by airport shuttle bus (~£4)
• →Barkhor Kora sunset walk

Self-guided morning at Jokhang Temple (entry ~£10) — go early to see pilgrims prostrating. Wander Barkhor market for trinkets and butter tea. Skip the paid Tibetan Medical Center 'visit' (a commission stop on the group tour) and instead walk to Norbulingka, the former summer palace (entry ~£7). In the afternoon take a local taxi (~£3) to Sera Monastery for the 3pm monk debates — a highlight and free with the main ticket (~£6). Ganden Monastery is 50km out; skip it unless you have a spare day.

🚌Local taxis around the city ~£6 total

🛏Barkhor-area guesthouse (~£22/night)

• →Jokhang Temple entry (~£10)
• →Barkhor market wander
• →Norbulingka Palace (~£7)
• →Sera Monastery monk debates (~£6)

Potala Palace requires a pre-booked timed ticket (~£25, book online as soon as your permit is confirmed — tickets sell out). Allow 2–3 hours and lots of stairs. In the afternoon, shared taxi to Drepung Monastery (~£3 each way) — one of Tibet's largest and quieter than Potala. Nechung Monastery is next door and often skipped; go if you have energy. Early night — you're gaining altitude tomorrow.

🚌Shared taxis ~£5

🛏Barkhor-area guesthouse (~£22/night)

• →Potala Palace timed entry (~£25)
• →Drepung Monastery (~£7)
• →Nechung Monastery (free/£2)

This is where a shared 4WD or minibus with your permit guide becomes unavoidable — Lhasa-to-Gyantse public transport for foreigners without a guide is not permitted. Arrange a 3-day shared vehicle + guide through your Tibet operator for the Lhasa–Gyantse–Shigatse–Rongbuk–Kerung leg (roughly £220–£280 per person for a small group of 4 — this is the bulk of your unavoidable cost). The drive crosses Kamba La Pass then drops to turquoise Yamdrok Lake — stop for photos. Arrive Gyantse by late afternoon; climb Kumbum Stupa (~£8) and Pelkor Chode Monastery (combined ticket).

🚌Shared 4WD/minibus with guide, Lhasa–Gyantse (~£70pp of the multi-day vehicle cost)

🛏Gyantse guesthouse (double ~£18/night)

• →Yamdrok Lake viewpoint
• →Kamba La Pass (4,794m)
• →Karo La Pass (5,045m)
• →Kumbum Stupa & Pelkor Chode Monastery (~£8)

Short drive to Shigatse (~90km). Visit Shalu Monastery en route (quiet, beautiful murals, ~£5) then check in. Afternoon at Tashilhunpo Monastery — home of the Panchen Lama and the biggest sight in Shigatse (~£9). Wander the Shigatse market on foot for dinner; try Tibetan momos and thukpa at a local teahouse (~£5).

🚌Shared 4WD with guide ~£35pp

🛏Shigatse guesthouse (double ~£20/night)

• →Shalu Monastery (~£5)
• →Tashilhunpo Monastery (~£9)
• →Shigatse market walk

Long driving day across Pang La Pass (5,150m) with the first big Everest views, then down into Rongbuk Valley. Visit Rongbuk Monastery (~£6) — the world's highest monastery — and head to Everest Base Camp North for the north-face view at sunset (site entry ~£25). Stay in a basic Rongbuk tent guesthouse or monastery guesthouse (~£15pp, shared, dorm-style). It's cold and altitude is no joke — bring diamox if your doctor approves, and layer up. This is the night you'll remember.

🚌Shared 4WD with guide ~£50pp

🛏Rongbuk tent guesthouse, shared (~£15pp)

• →Pang La Pass (5,150m)
• →Rongbuk Monastery (~£6)
• →Everest Base Camp North sunset (~£25)

Retreat from Everest and drive west via Tingri and the Lalung La Pass (5,200m) toward the Nepal border. Descend through Nyalam — big altitude drop, and you'll feel the air thicken noticeably. Overnight in Kerung town (~£20) near the border. Buy snacks and water here; the Nepal side is cheaper but the crossing takes time.

🚌Shared 4WD with guide ~£45pp

🛏Kerung guesthouse (double ~£20/night)

• →Lalung La Pass viewpoint
• →Nyalam town stop
• →Tingri lunch stop

Walk across the Rasuwagadhi/Kerung border in the morning (China exit formalities 1–2 hrs; small exit/entry fees ~£2). From Rasuwagadhi take a local bus or shared jeep to Syabrubesi (~£2), then a local bus to Kathmandu via Dhunche/Galchi — change at Galchi or take the direct bus if running (~£6–£8, 7–9 hrs). This is where you save real money versus the tour's private transfer. Arrive Kathmandu in the evening; check into a Thamel guesthouse and have a celebratory dal bhat or Kathmandu-style Newari dinner (~£8) at a local spot.

🚌Shared jeep/bus Rasuwagadhi–Syabrubesi ~£2; local bus to Kathmandu ~£7

🛏Thamel hostel private room or budget guesthouse (~£12/night)

• →Rasuwagadhi border crossing
• →Local bus through the Trishuli valley
• →Thamel evening walk

Keep this as a buffer: mountain weather and border delays are real on the Kerung route. If you're flying out, Tribhuvan International is 20 mins from Thamel. Optional: morning walk to Swayambhunath (~£2) or Durbar Square (~£8), or a scenic mountain flight (~£130) if Everest views weren't clear. Local bus or taxi to the airport (~£3).

🚌Local taxi to airport ~£3

🛏Thamel guesthouse (~£12/night if staying)

• →Swayambhunath stupa (~£2)
• →Kathmandu Durbar Square (~£8)
• →Optional Everest mountain flight (~£130)